A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

CONTENTS TOURIST ROUTES....................................................... 8 – 35 walking tours around Prague TRIPS OUTSIDE PRAGUE ......................................... 36– 97 Mariánské Lázně, Sokolov, Karlovy Vary, Kutná Hora, Tábor, Jindřichův Hradec, Litomyšl, Brno, Ostrava, Kroměříž CULTURE .................................................................... 98 – 103 art galleries, museums, theatres, exhibitions, concerts, musicals ACCOMMODATION ................................................. 104 – 107 hotels, guest houses, camping EATING AND DRINKING.......................................... 108 – 113 restaurants, cafés, pub s SHOPPING ................................................................ 114 – 121 Shopping Centres, boutiques, glass, jewellery ENTERTAINMENT..................................................... 122– 123 clubs, discotheques, casinos SERVICES ................................................................. 124– 128 traffic information, public transport tickets, taxis, guarded parking 3 3 3 TOURIST ROUTES TRIPS CULTURE ACCOMMODATION EATING AND DRINKING SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES

CONTENTS TOURIST ROUTES....................................................... 8 – 35 walking tours around Prague TRIPS OUTSIDE PRAGUE ......................................... 36– 97 Mariánské Lázně, Sokolov, Karlovy Vary, Kutná Hora, Tábor, Jindřichův Hradec, Litomyšl, Brno, Ostrava, Kroměříž CULTURE .................................................................... 98 – 103 art galleries, museums, theatres, exhibitions, concerts, musicals ACCOMMODATION ................................................. 104 – 107 hotels, guest houses, camping EATING AND DRINKING.......................................... 108 – 113 restaurants, cafés, pub s SHOPPING ................................................................ 114 – 121 Shopping Centres, boutiques, glass, jewellery ENTERTAINMENT..................................................... 122– 123 clubs, discotheques, casinos SERVICES ................................................................. 124– 128 traffic information, public transport tickets, taxis, guarded parking A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 3 3 3 TOURIST ROUTES TRIPS CULTURE ACCOMMODATION EATING AND DRINKING SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT SERVICES

4 ComewithustotheGatetoBohemia,whichopenedtothegeneralpublicbymeansofthefourcor- nerstones that make up the region‘s most interesting tourist spots, which, for many, have yet to be discovered. These are Bohemian Switzerland, the Czech Central Mountains, the Krušné Mountains and the Lower Ohře. Let‘s give them a brief introduction. Bohemian Switzerland The territory‘s origins lie in the distant past, many millions of years ago a sea covered what is now today’s Bohemian Switzerland. When the sea retreated, a wondrous world of sandstone rose from its sandy bottom. A world of rock towers, bridges and gateways. In this area you will find some of the rarest fauna and most remarkable plants. After the retreat of the sea, processes, which are still continuing to this day, began to transform the resulting sandstone sheet. Thus was born a land- scape of rock formations, towers, walls, gullies and canyons. The national park has extremely valu- able natural areas, which are under protection due to the rare animals living in them and because they are virtually untouched. The inaccessible rocky and woody corners provide a home to many endangered species of animals. The Czech Central Mountains As a wine region the Czech Central Mountains represents an area that is great for spending a holi- day or as a destination for excursions and leisure activities. Every year Wine-growing Litoměřice invites wine lovers to visit the wine-growing shows, competitions and, above all, the wine harvests and their accompanying cultural programmes in all the major wine-growing centres – Litoměřice, Roudnice nad Labem and Velké Žernoseky. You can also head for Mount Říp, where, according to legend, the forefather of Czechs stood, for Stadice, from where Přemysl the Ploughman, founder of thePřemyslidDynasty,setoffforhisprincelyseatorforPeruc,wherePrinceOldřichfirstseteyeson the voluptuous Božena and made her his princess. The Krušné Mountains Recently the Krušné Mountains have become popular with athletes of all kinds. In the summer they are a popular destination for hikers and cyclists, in the winter their slopes are criss-crossed by skiers and snowboarders, whilst cross-country skiers traverse the ridges. But few know that the Krušné Mountains also hide lots of cultural treasures, and still maintain regional traditions and crafts with roots stretching back into the distant past. Even today you can still marvel at the traditional hand- madeproductionofwoodentoysinNováVesvHorách.Youcanalsovisitthetouristattractionsinthe Krušné Mountains and their foothills, such as the towns of Chomutov, Jirkov, Most, Litvínov, Teplice, Duchcov and Osek. A ride on the Moldaváček train promises to be a great experience for the whole family. It has been running from Most to the mountain village of Moldava for nearly 120 years. Lower Ohře The whole area has a deep tradition in agriculture, viticulture, and the associated processing indus- try. The towns on the River Ohře, many of which are listed and protected, are picturesque and the River Ohře itself, with the Nechranice Dam, is a big attraction due to its wide offer of sports and all kinds of active rest. Head for a landscape full of hop gardens and beautiful towers in the conserva- tion zones of Klášterec nad Ohří, Kadaň, Žatec, Louny, Podbořany and Postoloprty. The territory stretches all the way to Panenský Týnec and Libochovice. THE USTÍ REGION A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

5 Discover the most beautiful places in the Usti Region www.gatebohemia.cz A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

6 PICTOGRAMS AND OUR RECOMMENDATIONS Have you just opened our pages to find some inspiration for your programme? Then let our tips and recommendations enthuse you. For every town or city that we write about we have prepared a short piece on its history, its sights and the many sporting and cultural events go- ing on. If you have even more ideas, please write to us and we will try and cooperate with the information centres to create a programme for you, one that will suit you to the ground. Just like a handmade suit for sporty gents, sassy lasses, wee nippers or a dignified older pair, your programme in Prague can also be made to measure. Culture, entertainment, good food that is what we have to offer. Try out our offer, let us surprise you and, above all, have a good time. We have also thought up some special pictograms, which should make it easier for you to decide. MONUMENTS WHAT TO VISIT ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS, CAFES SPECIAL OFFER FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN TRANSPORT OUR TIP ENTERTAINMENT A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

7 You are holding in your hands a guide to Prague and Czech towns, one that was compiled by a “na- tive”. This does not mean that they have just come out of their cave, rather it’s a local denizen who likes travelling and can recommend you the very best from their city and region; what to see, where to eat, where to walk, where to park so you don’t get towed away, and what other pitfalls to avoid. It’s a bit like the joke about the bridge somewhere in eastern Russia. The first motorist comes up on a motorbike. He gets to the bridge, goes down to the river and carries the bike across. The next one has a Zhiguli car. Hedrivesdowntotheriver,findsafordanddrivestotheotherside.ThethirdcartoarriveisaMercedes driven by a stranger. He drives onto the bridge, the bridge breaks and the car falls into the river. Two natives are watching all this and one turns to the other and says: “Vot inostrányec, jedyet, jedyet i mosta ne vídyit.” In translation, it means something like this: “Really, that foreigner, driving on the bridge when it’s so dangerous.” Likewise, we get the same feeling when we see an unattended car full of stuff parked in Prague. If you do not want to have your car broken into, take everything out and leave the boot uncovered so thieves can see there is nothing to steal. Then they’ll leave you alone. Prague’s denizens know this full well, mainly having paid for this knowledge through a broken window and the loss of everything inside. If you follow this advice, then there is little risk of theft. We hope that this guide will make your stay in the Czech Republic a pleasant one, will help you find make your plans and, what‘s more, save a little bit on ex- penses. If you print the discount coupon in the left corner and enter the basic informa- tionyouwillreceivea10%reductiononadmis- siontomostoftheactivities.Havefunwithverve and don’t forget about basic common-sense. Yours, the natives. A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 8 TOURIST ROUTES TOURIST ROUTES 8 Powder Tower WALKING TOURS AROUND PRAGUE ROYAL ROUTE This tour takes you through the historic city centre. It starts at the Prašná brána (Powder Tower), at the site of the one- time Royal Court from where the corona- tion processions set off, then proceeding through the Old Town, across the Gothic Charles Bridge towards Prague Castle and St. Vitus’s Cathedral. The tour is divided into two parts, each of which can take ei- ther 30 minutes (if you don’t look around you too much), two hours (if you stop at the recommended sites) or four hours (if you decide to look around the corner or enter some of the buildings). The history of the Old Town of Prague dates back to Romanesque times. The walls surrounding the town were erected in the 1230s, under King Wenceslas I. PART I OF THE ROYAL ROUTE – FROM PRAŠNÁ BRÁNA TO CHARLES BRIDGE Prašná brána (Powder Tower) was built in 1475 by King Vladislav Jagiello on the site of a 13th century fortified tower. It was supposed to be an official gateway of sorts to the Old Town. The Royal Court

9 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES TOURIST ROUTES 9 where the kings of Bohemia used to stay from the late 14th century on was situ- ated where the Art Nouveau Obecní dům (Municipal House) stands today. When the king moved back to Prague Castle, construction of the tower stopped. It was later used to store gunpowder and has since been referred to as the Powder Tower. Originally built in the Late Gothic style, it was rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style in the 19th century. Celetná is the artery of the Old Town of Prague and a textbook of architec- tural styles. Examples of the earliest, Romanesque, style may be found in the basement of virtually every house on this street (currently used as wine bars and restaurants) because over the centuries the ground level sunk by several metres. Palác mincovny (Mint House; Celetná 36/587) was built in the baroque style in the 18th century, and from the late 18th century housed Prague’s military head- quarters. Ovocný trh (Fruit Market) nearby is where Prague’soldesttheatre,namelyStavovské divadlo (Estates Theatre) of 1783, stands. It was the venue of the world premiere of Mozart’s opera Don Giovanni, conducted by the composer in person in 1787. Not far from here stands the Carolinum, once a college of Charles University founded by Charles IV, comprising several buildings in the Gothic style. Dům U černé Matky Boží (House at the Black Mother of God; Celetná 34/569) is one of the best-known examples of Cubist architecture in Prague, designed by the architect Josef Gočár and built in 1911-12. It houses a permanent exhibition of Czech Cubism. Menhartovský dům (Menhart House; Celetná 17/595) consists of several medi- eval structures, rebuilt in the Renaissance style and turned into a single compound around the year 1700, with Gothic por- tals, Renaissance vaults, and baroque sculptures in the courtyard. (A passage- way lead from here to St. James’s Church. one of Prague’s most beautiful baroque churches, built in the 13th century but re- built in the early baroque style at the be- ginning of the 18th century.) Caretto-Millesimo Palace (Celetná 13/597) is a blend of several styles, from the Romanesque to the baroque. The remains of the original 12th-century house have been preserved in the basement, while the facade dates from the 18th century. Hrzánský Palace (Celetná 12/558) is the result of a radical rebuilding of an earlier structure in the baroque style by the ar- chitect Alliprandi after 1700 for Count Zikmund Hrzán of Harasov. House signs, typical of Prague in the past, have been preserved on some houses on Celetná street to date. They are the houses U bílého páva (At the White Peacock; Celetná 10/557), U černého slunce (At the Black Sun; Celetná 8/556) and U bílého lva (At the White Lion; Celetná 6/555). The house At the Black Sun was where the wedding of Josefina Hampacherová and Josef Dušek took place. It was with the Dušeks that Mozart stayed when in Prague. Probably the best preserved historic houses on the street are the parsonage (Celetná 5/601) and the house U tří králů (At the Three Kings; Celetná 3/602). In both, the original Gothic brickwork has been preserved including the 14th-cen- tury gables. The latter was once inhabited by the young Franz Kafka.

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 10 Staroměstské náměstí (Old Town Square) is the most important square of the oldest part of the royal town of Prague and the centre of its eventful his- tory, which included royal weddings, the election of the King George of Poděbrady (1458), but also executions, with the most tragic one being the execution of 27 lead- ers of a failed anti-Hapsburg rebellion of the Estates in 1621. The event is commem- orated by the 27 crosses in the pavement next to the Old Town Hall. Coronation pro- cessions used to pass through the square which was also the venue of major rallies in the country’s more recent history. The Jan Hus Memorial was erected here as a symbol of those happy and sad events in 1915, designed by the architect Ladislav Šaloun. Old Town Hall The town hall as a symbol of the self-gov- ernment of the Old Town of Prague was built in 1338 and in the course of the fol- lowing centuries was gradually expanded. The astronomical clock (Orloj) dating from 1410 has figures of the twelve apos- tles appearing in the tiny windows on the hour during the day, and mechanical fig- ures of Vanity, Greed, Death, and a Turk in the upper part. The monumental spires of Chrám Panny Marie před Týnem (Church of Our Lady before Týn) is separated from the square by Týnská škola (Týn School) whose Gothic arcade is one of Prague’s oldest. The church itself was built on the site of an earlier church in the 14th and 15th centu- ries, and later rebuilt in the baroque style. Inside the church are Late Gothic and ba- roque altars and the grave of Tycho de Brahe, a famous astronomer of the time of Emperor Rudolph II. The tympanum on the northern portal is a copy of the origi- TOURIST ROUTES Astronomical clock in the Old Town Square Old Town Square

11 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia nal 14th-century piece by the Peter Parler workshop. If you have time, pass through the Renaissance gate to the Ungelt, also known as Týn, once an inn for merchants in transit through Prague. Some of the houses built next to the perimeter wall are fine examples of the Renaissance style. Return to the Old Town Square and stop at the monumental medieval structure of the house U kamenného zvonu (At the Stone Bell; Staroměstské náměstí 13/605) which in the 14th century was one of Prague’s most decorative buildings and was probably owned by Queen Eliška Přemyslovna. The adjacent Goltz-Kinsky Palace (Staroměstské náměstí 11/606) was built in the second half of the 18th century and is the birthplace of the first Nobel Peace Prize winner Bertha von Suttner-Kinsky. It later housed the German Gymnasium (sec- ondary school) attended by Franz Kafka. The memorial plaque on the house U kamenného beránka (At the Stone Lamb) with a fine Renaissance portal (Staroměstské náměstí 17/551) recalls Albert Einstein’s stay in Prague in 1911. ThecornerhouseUbíléhokoníčka(Atthe White Horse; nebo U zlatého jednorožce (At the Golden Unicorn; Staroměstské náměstí 20/548) with a Late Gothic vault in the passageway and a Romanesque base- ment bears a memorial plaque recalling the piano school where the great Czech composer Bedřich Smetana once taught. Passing by the Old Town Hall and by the Renaissance house U minuty (At the Minute; Staroměstské náměstí 2/3) you arrive at the Malé náměstí square in the centre of which stands a fountain with a Renaissance grille. Then take Karlova street with many medieval houses among which house No. 156 (Husova 19) with Venetian Renaissance gables is probably the most interesting. It houses an art gal- lery with exhibits also on display in the well-preserved Romanesque basement. Opposite it stands the huge Clam-Gallas Palace (Husova 20/158), a fine example of high baroque architecture, built on the site of a medieval palace after a design by J. B. Fischer von Erlach in the early 18th century. The expressive sculpted decora- tions are the work of Matthias Bernard Braun. Memorial to Jan Hus (John Huss) TOURIST ROUTES U minuty (the house At the Minute)

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 12 Other interesting houses on Karlova in- clude the house U zlaté studny (At the Golden Well; Karlova 3/175) with rich stucco decorations on the facade. In the opposite corner stands the house U zlatého hada (At the Golden Snake); Karlova 18/181) with a beautiful house sign. This is where Prague’s first café Deodata Damajana was opened in the early 18th century. On the right side of the street stands one of the city’s largest compounds, namely the Clementinum, construction of which started in the mid-16th century and took almost two centuries to complete. It was originally a Jesuit college which was gradually expanded into a large university compound, including many religious buildings. The Mirror Chapel (Zrcadlová kaple) is the venue of concerts, the Church of St. Clement is used by the Greek Catholic Church, and the Vlašská kaple (Italian chapel of the Assumption of Our Lady) by the recently restored Italian Memorial to Charles IV. TOURIST ROUTES

13 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES Congregation. The facade of the Church of St. Saviour (sv. Salvátor) decorated with sculptures by J.J. Bendl overlooks the Křižovnické náměstí square. The square is named after the only Bohemian religious order, namely the Knights of the Cross with the Red Star, founded in the mid-13th century by St. Agnes of Bohemia. Shortly after its foundation the order moved near the then Romanesque bridge and has re- sided there ever since. The Church of St. Francis replaced an earlier one only in the late 17th century and was designed by J.B. Mathey. The memorial in the centre of the square represents Charles IV as founder of Prague’s Charles University. It was erected here on the occasion of the 500th anniver- sary of its foundation in 1848, and the four female figures surrounding the ruler rep- resent the university’s four faculties. PART II - FROM CHARLES BRIDGE TO PRAGUE CASTLE Old Town Bridge Tower (Staroměstská mostecká věž) The bridge tower on the Old Town side of Charles Bridge was built at the same time as the Gothic bridge by Charles IV in 1357 as not only a fortified tower but also a symbolic triumphal arch on the Bohemian kings’ coronation route. This is attested by the rich sculptural decorations on its east- ern facade. Inside the tower is an exhibi- tion of old musical instruments from the National Museum collections. Charles Bridge was built in 1357 to re- place an earlier Romanesque bridge from Charles Bridge Malá Strana Bridge Towers TOURIST ROUTES

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 14 the second half of the 12th century and known as Judith bridge after a Bohemian queen. Judith Bridge was destroyed in a flood in 1342. Although the Gothic bridge was more solid, it was also damaged by floods and had to be repaired several times. It is decorated with 30 statues and sculptures added gradually from the end of the 17th century (the earliest statue being that of St. John of Nepomuk from 1683). Some of the sculptures date from the 19th century and the youngest one is that of St. Cyril and Methodius from the time shortly before World War II. The most valuable originals are currently being re- placed by copies. Malá Strana Bridge Towers (Malostranské mostecké věže) The taller one of the two towers on the Malá Strana (Lesser Town) side of the bridge was built in the second half of the 15th century under King George of Poděbrady, after the example of the tower on the opposite side of the bridge. It is connected by a gate with Judith tower, the only remaining part of the Romanesque bridge destroyed in a flood in 1342. The tower exhibition is dedicated to the event- ful history of the bridge. Mostecká connects Charles Bridge with Malá Strana’s central square. In the early Middle Ages there was a Romanesque court at each side of the square. On the right side stood the bishop’s, later the archbishop’s,courtwhichwasdestroyedin the Hussite wars in the 15th century. Only a tower has survived, accessible from the house at Mostecká 16/47). Opposite it, the commandery of the Knights Hospitalers was established after 1158. The baroque Church of Our Lady under the Chain at the end of the bridge is actually only the presbytery of an earlier church. Parts of the brickwork and the tower have been preserved from Romanesque times and from the reconstruction in the Gothic style. Most of the houses on Mostecká have Gothic or Renaissance ground plans, and some have house signs on their ba- roque facades. TOURIST ROUTES St. Nicholas‘ Church Lesser Quarter Square

15 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES Malostranské náměstí square is the cen- tral square of the Lesser Town of Prague, known as Malá Strana. The town was founded by Přemysl Otakar II, nicknamed “king of iron and gold”, in 1257 on the site of an earlier settlement. The Church of St. Nicholas was built in the centre of the square as early as the 13th century. The present-day church is an 18th-cen- tury baroque structure, built by Christoph Dientzenhofer and his son Kilian Ignaz. It is one of the finest examples of Bohemian baroque. The church belonged to a Jesuit college, and the two buildings actually divide the square into two distinct parts. Most of the buildings here are in the Renaissance and baroque styles, because the town was almost entirely destroyed in a huge fire in 1541. Nearly all the houses and palaces at the lower end of the square have arcades. Probably the most interesting are the early 18th-century Kaiserstein Palace (Malostranské náměstí 23/37) with a me- morial tablet commemorating the stay here by the famous Czech singer Emmy Destinn and the corner house of the for- mer Malá Strana town hall (Malostranské náměstí 21/35). Behind the corner stands yet another architectural gem, namely the Church of St. Thomas, whose Gothic ground plan attests to its foundation in the 13th century. It was beautifully re- built in the baroque style. The high altar is decorated with two Rubens paintings (the originals have been replaced by copies and are deposited at the National Gallery). Among the palaces at the lower end of the square two other baroque structures merit attention. The Sternberg Palace (Malostranské náměstí 19/7) and the ad- jacent Smiřický Palace (18/68) are a part of the compound housing the Czech Parliament. The western side of the up- per end of the square is occupied by the Liechtenstein Palace (Malostranské náměstí 13/258) with remains of earlier architecture. The building houses the Academy of Music and is often the venue of concerts. The Marian Column in the middle of this part of the square is an early 18th-cen- tury baroque structure with statues of Bohemia’s patron saints. Take Nerudova street leading up to Prague Castle. The lower part of the street (up to the Church of Our Lady) was once a part of the medieval town, while the up- per part was joined to Malá Strana only by Charles IV. The houses here have an eventful history, with some remains of the Gothic period, but most of the burghers’ houses were rebuilt in the Renaissance style and some replaced by huge baroque palaces. The most remarkable among the latter are the Morzin Palace (Nerudova 5/256) and Thun-Hohenstein Palace (Nerudova 20/214), both designed by the baroque architect Johann Blasius Santini. The former palace is decorated with sculp- Marian Column

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 16 TOURIST ROUTES tures by Ferdinand Maxmilian Brokoff and the latter by Matthias Bernard Braun (who also made some of the statues on Charles Bridge). The Church of Our Lady at the Gaetans was built on the site of a medieval town gate in 1711 and was originally a part of a monastery compound extending as far as Prague Castle. The opposite Hansturkovský dům house (Nerudova 17/248) still has remains of medieval fortifications within its walls. The burghers’ houses on Nerudova boast beautiful house signs, a trademark of sorts of this part of the city. The house U dvou sluncí (At Two Suns; Nerudova 47/233) bears a memorial plaque recalling that leading Czech author Jan Neruda after whom the street was named lived here. PRAGUE CASTLE Turn right at the end of Nerudova street and you have arrived at Prague Castle. The tour of Prague Castle takes two hours provided you do not enter the buildings and the gardens. A thorough inspection of Prague Castle may take the whole day, but without the art galleries, 4-5 hours suffice. Earphones for a guided tour are available at the information centre. The seat of the rulers of Bohemia was built on a hill overlooking the River Vltava prob- U dvou slunců (At the Two Suns)

17 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia ably as early as in the 9th century and was gradually expanded over the centuries, bearing traces of all historic periods. Enter Prague Castle’s first courtyard through the main gate from Hradčanské náměstí square. This is the youngest part of the castle, dating from the 18th century. Then take a trip against the flow of time, with the second courtyard dating from the times of Emperor Rudolph II in the 16th century, but also with examples of the earliest building activity at Prague Castle, namely the remains of a late 9th-century church discovered by archeologists in the passageway next to the Castle Picture Gallery. The Castle Picture Gallery (Hradní obrazárna) has a collection of works of art started back in the times of Rudolph II. It is housed in the former stables. The exqui- site castle halls on the upper storey also date from the period of Rudolph II. Take the passageway with the remains of the medieval fortifications to the third courtyard with its centrepiece, St. Vitus’s Cathedral. Its main facade was completed only in the 20th century, but the cathe- dral was founded back in 1344, when the Prague bishopric was elevated to arch- bishopric. The cathedral’s first builder was Matthias of Arras, who designed the circumferential chapels in the east. Peter Parler continued the construction from 1356 until his death in 1399. He built the first half of the church including the Zlatá brána (Golden Gate) with a unique vault. The mosaic, rare in central Europe, and its placement attest to the significance as- signed by Charles IV to his seat, as do the interiors, especially the decorations in the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, Bohemia’s patron TOURIST ROUTES Hradčany Square Černínský Palace

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 18 saint. The chapel stands above the grave of the saint which was here already at the time of the original 10th-century church that was later rebuilt. The current cathe- dral is the third structure on the same site. The Královský palác (Royal Palace) has also evolved in the course of several cen- turies. The upper storey with the Vladislav Hall dates from around the year 1500, the lower storeys are even older. An example of the Romanesque style at Prague Castle is the Church of St. George. It was built in the 12th century on the site of an earlier church belonging to Bohemia’s oldest convent, namely the convent of the Benedictine nuns, estab- lished in the mid-10th century. The church currently houses National Gallery collec- tions. The Zlatá ulička (Golden Lane) in the north-eastern part of the Castle consists of the tiny dwellings of the castle sharp- shooters built next to the town walls un- der Rudolph II in the late 16th century. Prague Castle has several gardens, a tour of which can start at the Old Castle Staircase (Staré zámecké schody) and end at the lookout ramp at the end of Nerudova street. The landscaping and in- terconnection of the gardens are, for the most part, the work of the architect Josip Plečnik. Next to the main castle entrance is the Na baště (On the Bastion) garden. Walking along the Jelení příkop (Stag Moat) across the Prašný most (Powder Bridge) you arrive at the Royal Garden (Královská zahrada). Its history can be traced back to the Renaissance times and the reign of Ferdinand of Hapsburg who had the Letohrádek královny Anny (Queen Anne Summer Palace) built here, a unique example of the Italian Renaissance on Czech territory. The famous Zpívající fontána (Singing Fountain) dates from the mid-16th century. The other Renaissance structures here, including the Velká míčovna (Large Ball-game Court), date from the times of Rudolph II. The gardens are open in the summer season. TOURIST ROUTES Vrtba Gardens Golden Lane

19 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES TOUR OF THE TOWN OF HRADČANY The town of Hradčany was founded as the third town of Prague after 1320, under the reign of King John of Luxembourg, but was granted the full rights of a free royal town only under Emperor Rudolph II. The tour may start at Pohořelec and may be followed by the tour of Prague Castle, or vice versa. Without an inspection of the interiors, two hours will suffice, interiors included it may take half a day. Pohořelec is one of the three squares of this smallest of Prague’s towns and its Czech name alludes to the local frequent fires. The memorial of two astronomers, Johann Kepler and Tycho de Brahe, was erected here in memory of the house where the latter once lived. He died in Prague in 1601 and is buried in the Church of Our Lady before Týn. The Strahov Cloister and grounds were created in the middle of the 12th cen- tury as a fortified complex of buildings even before the founding of the city of Hradčan. The Norbertines came here then and except for a period of time during the communist regime, still remain today. Evidence of hundreds of years of building can be found here – including remains from the Roman, gothic and baroque eras. The local cloister picture gallery and li- brary are accessible to visitors. Loretánské náměstí (Loreto Square) is named after the Loreto, a baroque com- pound of structures including the the Church of the Nativity (Narození Páně), gradually built around a copy of the al- leged house of the Virgin Mary which stood here from 1626. The architects who worked at the compound included the two Dientzenhofers. Part of the Loreto treasure is the Diamond Monstrance dec- orated with 6,222 diamonds. The famous carillon dates from the late 17th century. Also on the square is the Capuchin Monastery with the Church of Our Lady Angelic built in 1600. The entire western side of the square is occupied by the Černínský palác (Černín Palace), one of Prague’s most monumen- tal structures. It started to be built in the second half of the 17th century and was still not completed in the 18th century. From the mid-19th century on it was used by the military, and since the creation of the independent Czechoslovakia in 1918 to date it has been home to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Passing by the palace gardens we arrive at Nový svět, once the suburbs of Hradčany Loreta St. Vitus‘ Cathedral

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 20 whose tiny picturesque houses are now inhabited mostly by artists. At the end of the street stands the Church of St. John of Nepomuk, dedicated to the saint in the year of his canonisation in 1729. At that time it belonged to the Ursuline Convent, dissolved by Emperor Joseph II. It was then used by the military. The house in the opposite corner is usu- ally referred to as the dům pážat (Pages’ House; Kanovnická 3/69) and has been preserved in its Renaissance form. Take the U kasáren street leading to Loretánská. On your left stands the Martinic Palace (Loretánská 4/181), cur- rently home to the Castle Guards. It was built in the early 18th century after a design by the Roman architect Carlo Fontana. At the end of the street stands the Hradčany town hall (Hradčanská rad- nice; Loretánská 1/173). It was built in the Renaissance style in the late 16th cen- tury when the town was granted the full rights of a free royal town by Rudolph II. Hradčany’s coat of arms is above the en- trance, and on the right-hand side is the “Hradčany elbow”. On your right, the baroque Radniční schody (Town Hall Staircase) leads to Nerudova street below. It is overlooked by the Carmelite convent with the Church of St. Benedict. The church dates from the 14th century, but became a monas- tic church only in the 17th century, when it belonged to the male order of the Barnabites. The Carmelites came here at the end of the 18th century, bringing with them a mummy of the founder of Prague’s first convent which is still in the church. On the opposite corner stands the Toskánský palác (Tuscany Palace; Hradčanské náměstí 5/182). Its early ba- roque reconstruction was designed by the architect J.B. Mathey, the sculptural deco- rations on the attic are from the workshop of Johann Brokoff, and the Archangel Michael on the corner opposite the town hall is the work of O. Most. TOURIST ROUTES Lederburg Gardens

21 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES The Martinic Palace (the second of its name) stands in the corner of the square (Hradčanské náměstí 8/67). It was only in the 1970s that its Renaissance decorations from the turn of the 16th century were fully uncovered and restored. The Schwarzenberský palác (Schwar- zenberg Palace; Hradčanské náměstí 2/185) is yet another example of Renaissance architecture, dating from the mid-16th century and currently housing the Museum of Military History. A baroque Marian Column from the early 18th cen- tury, the work of Ferdinand Maxmilian Brokoff, stands in the park in the square in front of the palace. The Šternberský palác (Sternberg Palace; Hradčanské náměstí 15/57) was built at the turn of the 17th century in the north- ern part of the square, next to the Jelení příkop (Stag Moat). It has been used since the 19th century as a picture gallery, and at present houses the National Gallery col- lections of old European art. Theentrancetothepicturegalleryissome- what obscured by the Arcibiskupský palác (Archbishop’s Palace; Hradčanské náměstí 16/56). The original residence of the archbishop in Malá Strana was de- stroyed by the Hussites. The archbishop’s seat was restored in Prague only in 1562 and this is when the palace was built. It was then reconstructed in the 17th and 18th centuries. TOUR OF MALÁ STRANA The tour of Malá Strana includes visits to the gardens and inspection of other places of interest and takes between half a day and a whole day. To see everything

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 22 it offers it is best to make the tour be- tween April and late October, starting at the Malostranská Metro station or walking from Hradčanské náměstí square down the Zámecké schody (Castle Staircase). In Valdštejnské náměstí (Wallenstein Square) is the entrance to the garden of Ledeburský palác (Ledebour Palace; Valdštejnské náměstí 3/162). This early- 18th-century garden is one of the ring of palace gardens on the southern slopes below Prague Castle. The others are the Pálffy, Kolowrat, and Fürstenberg gar- dens (the last mentioned one belongs to the Polish Embassy and is closed to the public).Thebaroquegardensareaspecific feature of Prague’s architecture. They are terraced thanks to which beautiful views can be had from them of the entire city. From Valdštejnské náměstí, you can walk through the compound of Valdštejnský palác (Wallenstein Palace) which Albrecht of Wallenstein, general of the imperial army, had built here in the 1620s. The pal- ace has richly decorated interiors and a large garden. The palace is partly home to the Czech Senate, and its historic rooms will be accessible to the public after res- toration is completed. The Valdštejnská zahrada (Wallenstein Garden) is con- nected with the palace by a sala terrena decorated with painted scenes from the Trojan war. The ingeniously landscaped garden is adorned with copies of bronze statues made by Adrien de Vries (the origi- nals of which were taken away as booty by the Swedish army at the end of the Thirty Years’ War). Exit the palace compound at Klárov and take U lužického semináře street to Vojanovy sady, Prague’s oldest gardens. As early as in the second half of the 12th century, this space was a part of the bish- op’s court. It remained in use after the palace was destroyed and in the 17th cen- tury was integrated as a garden into the Carmelite convent. The Carmelites had two chapels built here. The garden later served as recreation ground for young girls attending the school of the Order of English Virgins, and in the 20th century became accessible to the public. U lužického semináře street (named after the Lusetian seminary once housed in No. 13/90) takes you to the Kampa island formed next to Charles Bridge by an arm of the Vltava River and also referred to as the Venice of Prague. The island’s current appearance dates from the 16th century when remains of the Malá Strana houses destroyed in the 1541 fire were dumped here, raising the ground level. Thanks to this, a part of the island was firm enough for houses to be built on it. The other half of the island is formed by gardens, open to the public since the 20th century. Some of the mills that once stood here have been preserved to date, among them the ŠtěpánovskýmlýnmillintheRenaissance style, or the Velkopřevorský mlýn with a TOURIST ROUTES Čertovka (a side arm of the Vltava)

23 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES huge wheel visible from Charles Bridge. Further upstream of the Čertovka arm of the Vltava River stands the Huť mill with a smaller wheel. The Sovovy mlýny com- pound is currently being restored and will then be used as an art gallery. Leave the island at the Church of St. John at the Laundry, whose name dates from the time when it was used as a laundry having been abolished by Joseph II. It re- gained its status as a church and its cur- rent appearance is the result of several re- constructions. However, the church stood here as early as in the 12th century, even before Malá Strana was founded. Take Říční street where a memorial plaque on house No. 11/532 commemo- rates the stay of Karel Čapek, one of the greatest Czech authors, and his brother Josef Čapek, a leading painter who died in a concentration camp during World War II. You are now in Újezd and have two op- tions: 1. Either take the funicular railway or walk up Petřín Hill, with the Hladová zeď (HungerWall)perimeterwallfromthetime of Charles IV, a wooden church moved to Prague from Sub-carpathian Ukraine in the 1920s, the Štefánikova Observatory (Hvězdárna), the mirror Maze (Bludiště), and Rozhledna, a downsized copy of the Eiffel Tower built in 1891. From there you can either return back to Újezd or walk to the Strahov Monastery in Pohořelec. 2. Or you may decide to leave out the tour

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 24 of Petřín, take Újezd street to Karmelitská, passing by the small Church of St. Lawrence (sv. Vavřince) in Hellichova. This church, too, is older than Malá Strana it- self, and used to be the parish church of the one-time settlement of Opatovice back in the 12th century. It has been re- stored recently and is used for concerts. The Church of Our Lady Victorious in Karmelitská was originally a Lutheran prayer house, given to the Carmelites at the time of re-Catholicisation. The church is famous especially for the statue of the Bambino di Praga (Infant Jesus of Prague), donated to the church by Polyxena of Lobkowicz in 1628. Also in Karmelitská stands the Vrtbovský palác (Vrtba Palace; Karmelitská 25/373). Behind the in- conspicous facade is a great surprise. Take the passageway to the Vrtbovská zahrada garden, one of Prague’s most beautiful ba- roque gardens. It is also a terraced garden, designed by František Maxmilian Kaňka with sculptural decorations by Matthias Bernard Braun, and the frescoes in the sala terrena the work of Václav Vavřinec Reiner, the three men having been leading artists of their time. Take the narrow Prokopská street to Maltézské náměstí square. The St. John the Baptist group of statues stands in front of the Church of Our Lady below the Chain, the main church of the commandery of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem dating from the 12th century. The house U zlatého jednorožce (At the Golden Unicorn; Lázeňská 11/285) bears a memorial plaque commemorating the stay here of Ludwig van Beethoven. At the other end of Lázeňská street you may enjoy the unusual calm of Velkopřevorské náměstí square with sev- eral Renaissance and baroque buildings. Walk past the Velkopřevorský mlýn mill back to Kampa island or up the stairs to Charles Bridge. THROUGH THE OLD TOWN OF PRAGUE AND JOSEFOV This is a tour to be made if you are staying longer in Prague. It consists of two parts of which the first is dedicated to the for- mer Prague Jewish ghetto (and takes 4- 5 hours), and the other is a tour of other places of interest across Prague’s oldest town, complete with a tour of the National Gallery collections (it takes another 4-5 hours). Statue of the Infant Jesus of Prague Spanish Synagogue TOURIST ROUTES

25 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES Josefov is the name of Prague’s former Jewish Town, established as an indepen- dent fifth district within the territory of the Old Town of Prague following the eman- cipation of the Jewish population after 1850. It was named after Joseph II, under whom Prague’s Jews were at last granted some civil rights. The former ghetto used to be one of the poorest parts of the city and a large part of it was demolished at the turn of the 19th century. The only pre- served structures are the synagogues, the town hall and the old Jewish cemetery. They survived through World War II sim- ply because Hitler had wanted to set up in Prague a museum of the “former” Jewish nation. Probably the most valuable structure in the Jewish ghetto is the Staronová syna- goga (Old-New Synagogue). Although it is one of Prague’s earliest Gothic struc- tures, it may still have had a predecessor. The Early Gothic synagogue consisting of a nave and an aisle dates from the 3rd quarter of the 13th century and has pre- served its original appearance in spite of later partial reconstruction. Opposite it on Červená street stands the Vysoká synagoga (High Synagogue) from the time of Rudolph II when the ghetto flourished in the late 16th century. The former Jewish town hall (Židovská radnice; Maiselova 18/250) on the corner dates from that time and has a clock with a Hebrew face. Both buildings underwent several reconstructions. The U židovského hřbitova street takes you to Klausova (Klaus) Synagogue built in the early baroque style in the late 17th century and rebuilt in the 19th century. NexttoitstandstheOldJewishCemetery (Starý židovský hřbitov) compound with the Pinkasova (Pinkas) Synagogue, built in the late 15th century in the Late Gothic style, and later rebuilt in the Renaissance style. In the course of the recent restora- tion, a Jewish ritual bath (mikvah) was discovered in the basement. Inside the synagogue is a memorial bearing the names of 77,000 Czech Jews who died in the Holocaust. The earliest tombstone in the Jewish cemetery dates from 1439. Because of lack of space the cemetery has several layers. The 12,000 tombstones have been erected here in the course of 350 years. The best known is probably the tombstone of Rabbi Löw, allegedly the creator of the Golem. When this cemetery was closed down in the late 18th century, the New Jewish Cemetery was founded outside the limits Old-New Synagogue Old Jewish Cemetery

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 26 TOURIST ROUTES of the then Prague (near the present-day Želivského Metro station) where Franz Kafka, Prague’s greatest Jewish author is buried. Weary visitors find themselves comfortably seated in the kosher King Salomon Restaurant (Široká 8, see p. 132). Maiselova (Maisl) Synagogue (Maiselova 8/63), named after its founder, was built in the late 16th century in the Renaissance style but since rebuilt in the neo-Gothic style. Most of these buildings at present house valuable collections and organise exhibi- tions. The Old-New Synagogue still serves its original purpose. Španělská (Spanish) Synagogue is located outside the centre of the former ghetto, on Dušní street, and was built in the late 19th century. Along the banks of the Vltava River there are also many Christian structures as well as modern buildings in pseudo-historic styles, the Art Nouveau and the Cubist style of the turn of the 19th century. Čechův most bridge, not far from the for- mer ghetto, is the shortest bridge across the Vltava River, the first of Prague’s 20th-century bridges (built in 1906), and the only one in the Art Nouveau style. It is remarkable for its rich decorations and illumination. This way to the Les Moules Restaurant, well known for its excellent cuisine (see p. 132). Continue along the embankment past the hospital with a long history to the large complex of the Convent of St. Agnes (Anežský klášter; Na Františku 811). It was founded at the same time as the Old Town of Prague in the 1230s by King Wenceslas I, his wife Cunigund, and his sister Agnes of Bohemia, who became its abbess. It was originally a convent of the Poor Clares and a monastery of the Friars Minor, and also the first ever Gothic structure on Bohemian territory. A large-scale recon- struction of the complex for the National Gallery was completed in the 1980s. The border between Prague’s two his- toric towns, namely the Old and the New Towns, runs along Revoluční street across náměstí Republiky square, Na příkopě and Národní streets. Most of the buildings here date from the 19th and 20th centu- ries and are a textbook of modern styles. Walking along this border at the lower end of Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square), you reach Můstek, named after a bridge which in the Middle Ages spanned the moat between the two towns and the remains of which can be seen on the basement level of the Metro station of the same name. The short street Na můstku takes you to yet another of Prague’s towns, namely the New Town of St. Gall (Havelské Město), whose independence, however, was only short-lived. Located between Ovocný trh (Fruit Market) and Uhelný trh (Coal Market), it was founded at the time when The Fruit Market

27 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia the Old Town walls were built. As early as in the 13th century it was integrated into the surrounding town (and is recalled only by several regular streets, uncommon in this part of the town). Inthecentreofthesettlement,theChurch of St. Havel (St. Gall) was originally a par- ish church built in the Gothic style, but re- built in the 17th and 18th centuries in the baroque style. It then became a part of the Carmelite monastery, until Joseph II’s reforms in the late 18th century. In front of the church, a roofed market- place (kotce) was built in 1362 which ex- tended as far as Uhelný trh and, though in a different form, has survived here to this date. The neo-Renaissance build- ing of the Česká spořitelna savings bank (Rytířská 29/536), designed by the leading architect Antonín Wiehl, was built here in the late 19th century. On the opposite side of the street, the house U modré růže (At the Blue Rose; Rytířská 24/399) is a Gothic house rebuilt in the baroque style. At one end of Rytířská street stands the Estates Theatre (Stavovské divadlo), at the other end is the Uhelný trh (Coal Market) square with the house U tří zlatých lvů (At the Three Golden Lions) with a memorial tablet commemorating the stay here of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. On the corner of the opposite house known as Platýz, a memorial plaque commemorates the stay in Prague of Ferencz Liszt. Not far from here stands the Church of St. Martin in the Walls so named because the 12th-century Romanesque church which once stood in the centre of a settle- ment was partly integrated into the town walls. It was rebuilt in the Gothic style and served as a parish church. The Brokoff family of leading baroque sculptors were buried in the adjacent cemetery which, however, no longer exists. Husova street, the communication axis of this part of the town, has a history dat- ing back to the Romanesque period but archeological excavations suggest that it may be even older than that. As the terrain was gradually raised, the ground floors of the Romanesque houses are now in the basement of the current houses. The many churches and chapels which once stood here but of which only very few have survived attest to the then density of the population. Right on Husova street stands the Church of sv. Jiljí (St. Giles), originally a parish church, then a chap- ter church, and eventually a monastery church. The medieval church was rebuilt in the baroque style and decorated with frescoes by Václav Vavřinec Reiner who is buried in the church. In the nearby Betlémské náměstí (Bethlehem Square) stands the recon- structed Bethlehem Chapel (Betlémská kaple), which was built in 1391 and where TOURIST ROUTES Church of St. Martin in the Wall

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 28 TOURIST ROUTES Master Jan Hus preached for several years from 1402. His execution by burning at the stake on July 6, 1415 in Constance (Germany) became a milestone in Czech history. Martin Luther called him his teacher and there is an exhibition in the chapel on the development of the non- Catholic Churches and thinking. Rotunda sv. Kříže (Rotunda of the Holy Rood) on Karoliny Světlé street is a Romanesque church which has survived to this date. There used to be many more churches like this here. It dates from the 12th century and is still used for religious purposes. The tour ends in the Smetanovo nábřeží embankment, Prague’s oldest one, dat- ing from the 1840s and named after lead- ing Czech composer Bedřich Smetana. A beautiful view can be had from here of Prague’s famous skyline. NEW TOWN OF PRAGUE The tour of this part of Prague takes a whole day, with half a day dedicated to the town itself and 2-3 hours to an inspec- tion of Vyšehrad. The New Town of Prague is the fourth, Betlehem Chapel

29 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TOURIST ROUTES and last, of Prague’s towns which closed the medieval development of Prague. The town, founded in 1348 by Charles IV, was actually fully built-up only as late as in the 19th century. Its network of streets with three large marketplaces has been preserved to this day. Václavské náměstí (Wenceslas Square, originally the Horse Market), is now the centre of the city. The buildings in the square are from the 19th and 20th centuries, but the square has been here since the Middle Ages. At the lower end of the almost 1-kilometre- long square begins the Old Town, at the upper end stands the National Museum (Národní muzeum) built in the late 19th century in the neo-Renaissance style after a design of Josef Schulz. Right in front of the museum is a memo- rial to Jan Palach and Jan Zajíc, two young men who burnt themselves to death in 1969 in protest against the Soviet occupa- tion of the country. The equestrian statue of St. Wenceslas surrounded by the country’s patron saints is the work of Josef Václav Myslbek from the turn of the last century. Not far from the National Museum stands another 19th-century structure, namely the State Opera (Státní opera), designed by the Viennese architects Hermann Hellmer and Ferdinand Fellner. Wenceslas Square divides the New Town into “lower” with the parish Church of St. Jindřich a St. Kunhuta (St. Henry and St. Cunigund) on Jindřišská street, and “up- per” with the parish Church of St. Štěpán (St. Stephen) on Štěpánská street. You can then take the busy Vodičkova street with the neo-Renaissance Wiehlův dům house on the corner (Václavské náměstí 34/792). A passageway connects Vodičkova street with the Františkánská zahrada (Franciscan garden) which once belonged to the Franciscan monastery. The Church of Our Lady of the Snows was founded by Charles IV in the mid-14th century but was never completed. Only the presby- tery was built which, however, is the tall- est church in Prague (33 metres). The inte- riors are in the early baroque style. Take the passageway back to Vodičkova street and opposite you stands the Lucerna Palace (Palác Lucerna; Vodičkova National Museum State Opera Franciscan Gardens

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 30 36/704), a large multi-functional com- pound built here by the grandfather of former Czech President Václav Havel. The U Nováků house (Vodičkova 28/699) is yet another early 20th-century struc- ture, designed by the architect Osvald Polívka in the Art Nouveau style. The Vyšší dívčí škola girls’ school (Vodičkova 22/683) was designed by Ignaz Ullmann in the 19th century in the Czech neo-Renaissance style, typical of which is rich sgraffito decoration. Karlovo náměstí (Charles Square; origi- nally the Cattle Market) is Europe’s larg- est square covering an area of 80,500 sq m and is best seen in its entirety from the tower of the Novoměstská radnice (New Town Hall) in the north-eastern corner of the square. The town hall began to be built in the 1370s. A large part of the Gothic structure has survived in spite of the later reconstruction in the Renaissance style. In the middle of the square, at its eastern side, stands the Church of St. Ignác (St. Ignatius) built in the early baroque style in the second half of the 17th century. Most of the interior furnishings date from that time. Attheoppositesideofthesquare,Resslova street leads towards the Vltava River. It has two churches one opposite the other. Part of the Church of St. Cyril and Methodius is a Memorial of Reconciliation, in memory of the men who assassinated Reichsprotektor Reinhard Heydrich at the time of the Nazi occupation and then TOURIST ROUTES High School for Girls St. Ignatius‘ Church New Town Hall

31 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia were in hiding in this church. Opposite it stands the Romanesque Church of St. Wenceslas. Return to Karlovo náměstí square and in the south-western corner take U ne- mocnice and then Kateřinská streets to Ke Karlovu where the baroque Michnův letohrádek (Michna Summer Palace), also known as Villa Amerika, designed by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer, houses the Antonín Dvořák Museum (Ke Karlovu 20/462). At the end of this street stands the Church of Our Lady and Charlemagne, also known as the Na Karlově Church, and once a monastery church. It was rebuilt several times but its original architecture from the time of Charles IV has been pre- served. It is an octagonal structure, remi- niscent of the Aachen church dedicated to Charlemagne. Most of the other buildings on this street are hospitals. The tour may then continue back to Karlovo náměstí or across the Nuselský most bridge, past the Congress Centre to Vyšehrad. The corner building at Karlovo náměstí 40/502, known as the Mladotův or Faustův dům (Mladota/Faust House) has a baroque facade on a Gothic palace dating from the 14th century. Several of its owners had devoted themselves to alchemy, and the Prague version of the Faust legend is linked to this building. Continue to Vyšehradská street and through the gate at No. 49 enter the Emauzy (Emmaus monastery) compound of what was once a Benedictine monas- tery where services were conducted in the Slavonic language. It was founded by Charles IV and officially consecrated dur- ing Easter 1372. The monastery was seri- ously damaged at the end of World War II, during an air raid on Prague. As if by a miracle, the mid-14th-century wall paint- ings in the ambulatory survived. The opposite Church of St. John on the Rock (sv. Jana Na skalce) is one of the fin- est examples of the Bohemian baroque, and was built in the first half of the 18th century by Kilian Ignaz Dientzenhofer. Vyšehradská street leads to the Botanical Gardens of Charles University, moved here 100 years ago from the opposite bank of the Vltava River, where it had been founded by the Empress Maria Theresa back in the 18th century. Michna summer palace – „Villa America“ TOURIST ROUTES Emmaus Monastery

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 32 TOURIST ROUTES Trojická street with the Baroque parish Church of the Holy Trinity (Nejsvětější Trojice) leads to the embankment. From here, you may either go left to inspect several Cubist houses at the foot of the Vyšehrad hill, or go right to the Palackého náměstí square with a memorial to František Palacký, a Czech historian, which is an early-20th century work by the sculptors Stanislav Sucharda and Josef Mařatka. At the end of the row of houses on Rašínovo nábřeží embankment stands the Tančící dům (Dancing House; Rašínovo nábřeží 80/1981), completed in 1996 and designed by architects Frank O. Gehry and Vlado Milunič. The facade ressembles the waves of a river, the house’s silhouette a pair of dancers. In Jiráskovo náměstí square stands a me- morial to Alois Jirásek, a Czech writer who lived in one of the houses in the square. The nearby water tower used to be a part of the onetime mills, most of which have since been demolished. Just like the other water towers in Prague, it dates from the late 15th century, but was rebuilt several times. Next to it, the Mánes building, which belongs to the artists’ association of the same name and was built in the Functionalist style, is used for exhibitions. Masarykovo nábřeží embankment, dat- ing mostly from the early 20th century, is a display of architectural styles. Probably the most interesting here is the Hlahol house (Masarykovo nábřeží 16/248) which belongs to the Hlahol choir, and was built in the Art Nouveau style by architect Josef Fanta. Some of the islands on the Vltava River have become oases of greenery in the city. Slovanský ostrov (Slavonic Island) has been the venue of concerts and balls since the 19th century. Národní divadlo (National Theatre) was a symbol of Czech emancipation in the then Czech-German Prague and was built in 1868-1881, financed from a nationwide collection of funds. The neo-Renaissance building designed by the architect Josef Zítek was destroyed in a fire shortly before it was scheduled to open and had to be builtfromscratchagain.Constructionthen Memorial to František Palacký Dancing House

33 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia took only two years, and was designed by architect Josef Schulz. Bedřich Smetana’s opera Libuše opened the first season on November 18, 1883. Decorations in both the interior and exterior of the theatre are by leading Czech artists of the time. In the 1980s, when the theatre underwent large- scale reconstruction, several modern structures were built in the vicinity, one of which is now home to the Laterna Magika theatre. VYŠEHRAD NATIONAL CULTURAL MONUMENT The tour of the complex takes 2-3 hours and Vyšehrad is best accessible from the Vyšehrad Metro station on the C line. A beautiful view of Prague can be had from the terrace of the Congress Centre from where you continue towards the for- tress’s walls. Vyšehrad has been inhabited since prehistoric times. In the 10th cen- tury, there was a Prince’s mint here, and in 1070, the chapter at the Church of St. Peter was founded. Shortly afterwards, the first King of Bohemia, Vratislav I, moved to Vyšehrad, and some of his successors also resided here. Charles IV built a new royal palace and had the entire Vyšehrad fortified. Most of the Gothic structures were destroyed at the time of the Hussite wars and though partly reconstructed in the 15th century, they never regained their previous significance. A new ba- roque stronghold was built in Vyšehrad in the 17th century which survived until 1911. Because of its close links with Czech history, Vyšehrad has become a symbol of the Czech national tradition and the National Cemetery was founded here. Enter the compound through the Táborská brána gate, built in 1655 and named after the town of Tábor in South Bohemia because the road leading there passed through the gate. Continue past the remains of the Špička Gothic gate with fragments of 14th-cen- tury town walls. On your left stands the early-20th-century building of the Jedlička Institute, the first institution for handicapped children in the Austro-Hungarian Empire which is still in operation today. Leopoldova brána gate with a former moat is an entrance to the inner fortress. Right in front of you stands the St. Martin Rotunda, the only surviving witness to the 11th-century Romanesque past of Vyšehrad. Take the path on your left at the end of National Theatre Vyšehrad – Church of St. Peter and St. Paul TOURIST ROUTES

34 TOURIST ROUTES View of Vyšehrad St. Martin‘s Rotunda which archeologists discovered the remains of a medieval Church of St. Lawrence (sv. Vavřince). They first un- earthed the foundations of an 11th-cen- tury Romanesque basilica, and later the foundations of a still earlier structure from around the year 1000. Other remains of Romanesque architec- ture include a bridge from the time of the King Vratislav which was a part of the forti- fication surrounding the royal compound. It is to be seen in the adjacent park where there are four sculptures of mythologi- cal figures from Czech history. Sculptures by Josef Václav Myslbek originally stood at the two ends of the Palackého most bridge. During an air raid on Prague in Praktický průvodce Prahou, českými a moravskými městy

35 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Sculpture by Josef Václav Myslbek February 1945 the bridge and the statues were damaged and later transferred to Vyšehrad as the bridge was enlarged. Other remains of historic structures within the royal compound include the founda- tions of houses and parts of the Gothic walls, including the ground floor of a me- dieval defence tower, later rebuilt for resi- dential purpose, and currently the venue of various exhibitions. Vyšehrad’s landmark is the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, rebuilt in the neo- Gothic style at the turn of the 19th cen- tury after a design of Josef Mocker. The adjacent parish cemetery has since 1861 been used also as National Cemetery. The Slavín memorial is the burial ground of major Czech scientists and artists (like Emmy Destinn, Rafael Kubelík, his father Jan Kubelík, and others). Altogether, some 600 scientists, authors, poets, sculptors, painters, actors, musicians, and architects have been buried in the cemetery, includ- ing Antonín Dvořák, Bedřich Smetana, and Karel Čapek, among many others. Because of their significance, the tombstones are usually sculptures made by other leading artists. Walking across the cemetery towards the neo-Gothic Provost’s house you arrive at the Nová or Cihelná brána (New, or Brick Gate) with an exhibition dedicated to the history of Vyšehrad and the entrance to the accessible part of the casemates, or secret military passageways in the for- tress. The underground corridor takes you to a large hall with the originals of some of the scultpures from Charles Bridge on display. TOURIST ROUTES

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 36 WHAT TO VISIT..................... The colonnade and the Singing Fountain Colonnades were always the centre of spa life. The biggest landmark in Mariánské Lázně is the main colonnade with a unique cast iron struc- ture. In the immediate vicinity of the main col- onnade are the Cross Colonnade and Caroline’s Spring, where several springs rise to the surface. Another beautiful building is Ferdinand’s Spring Colonnade, which is the dominant feature of the park in the lower part of the town. The Orthodox Church of St. Vladimir This Orthodox Church in the Russia-Byzantine style was built from 1900-1902. The church is noteworthy for its artwork, not just the beauti- ful architecture, but also the internal furnishings. The interior is richly decorated, including icons from the 17th century. The enamel-majolica iconostasis, a ceramic wall decorated with icons separating the chancel from the church’s main area, is unique as well as the largest of its kind. This iconostasis was exhibited at the world ex- hibition in Paris in 1900, where it won the main prize. This church is not hard to find, it lies above Hlavní Street in the town centre, but if you ask the locals for the way, then bear in mind they all know it as the Russian Church. MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ The second largest Czech Spa Mariánské Lázně is one of the most beautiful spa sites in Europe. Mariánské Lázně is a well-kept town with many monuments and is dom- inated by the cast-iron neo-Baroque colonnade with its Singing Fountain. When walking through the town and its extensive parks you will come across medicinal springs welling up, you can relax in the many cafés, most of which are concentrated on the town’s main road Hlavní třída, or you can go shopping in the many shops. You should not miss the neo-Byzantine dean’s church from the mid-19th century, the Orthodox Church of St. Vladimir or the neo-Gothic Anglican Chapel. TRIPS MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ

37 Services take place throughout the year, every Sunday at 10 am. Admission:CZK20 Open: all year round, daily 9:30 - 12:00 and 13:00 –17:00hours Contact:Ruskáulice347/9 MariánskéLázně Therapeutic springs and pavilions Thanks to the chemical diversity of the local springs, Mariánské Lázně is suitable for the treat- ment of a large spectrum of diseases. The local mineral water is the basis of spa care due to this diversity. In the vicinity there are over 100 min- eral springs, about 40 right in the city itself. The colonnades and arbours of each spring highlight thepicturesquespaatmosphere.You’llfindthem virtually throughout the city centre and the sur- rounding parks. The Municipal Museum The museum is located in the oldest surviving house in the historical part of the city, and is an important heritage building from the early 19th century being the last surviving example of what the town looked like when it was founded. The house was built in 1818 as a boarding house for spa guests the “Golden Grapes”. Johann Wolfgang Goethe lived here in 1823. The mu- seum, founded in 1887, has been located in this building since 1953. The museum’s exhibitions’ are further supplemented by the “Geological Park”, created on an area of almost 10 hectares, right next to the museum. Contact:Goethovonáměstí11,MariánskéLázně phone:+420354622740 e-mail:muzeum@muzeum-ml.cz www.muzeum-ml.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES......... Restaurace Medité If you have a taste for Spanish tapas and a get- together with friends until the wee hours over great wine, then this restaurant is the right place for you. An excellent restaurant that gets high praise year after year. Besides the Spanish speci- alities you can choose fresh seafood, fish or meat prepared according to various Spanish recipes. The helpful staff will adeptly guide you through the selection of fine wines. Meals range from CZK 140 - 340, beer 0.3 l - CZK 30, wine 0.7 l from CZK 260. Open:daily11-23hours Contact: Hlavní279/7,MariánskéLázně phone:+420354422018 info@medite.cz;www.medite.cz Česká hospůdka The Česká hospůdka restaurant focuses on tra- ditional Czech cuisine. Apart from a menu of- fering Czech specialties it has a menu offering delicacies for beer where you can find snacks to go you’re your beer. In the summer months you can enjoy meals on an outdoor grill on one of the two terraces. Meals:fromCZK120toCZK300,beerCZK35 Contact: Klíčová179,MariánskéLázně phone:+420720121500 info@ceskahospudkaml.cz www.ceskahospudkaml.cz Restaurace Bavaria This restaurant, which is located outside the cen- tre in a quiet district of Mariánské Lázně, has a friendly atmosphere where they offer you good quality food at reasonable prices. The guest house also has excellent services. Meals range from CZK 100 - 300, beer CZK 35, wine 0.7 l from CZK 210 MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ TRIPS A practical guide A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 38 Contact:Palackého61,MariánskéLázně phone:+420608119977 e-mail:restauracebavaria@gmail.com www.restauracebavaria.cz NIGHT LIFE............................ El Gaucho In the town centre, at the intersection of Hlavní třída and Chebská ulice, you will find a night club with an original interior in the style of a Mexican village. You will be able to spend the evening in thebaroronthedanceflooruntiltheearlyhours. It also has a restaurant with Mexican dishes. Open:Wed,Thu,Sun17–01,Fri,Sat17–05hours Contact: Chebská255,MariánskéLázně phone:+420354620318 elgaucho.steakhouse@gmail.com http://www.elgaucho.cz/kontakt.html TRANSPORT....................... Mariánské Lázně is easily reached by car or by train. The town lies 25 km from the Prague – Pilsen – Rozvadov motorway, the distance from Pragueis160km,andthetrainjourneyfromPrague takes 2:45 hours with no changes. The station is lo- cated on the town’s outskirts and public transport will take you into the centre in a few minutes. It is easy to get around the town by public transport, which consists of a network of trolleybuses and buses. It is virtually impossible for visitors without accommodation to park for free in the centre. All the streets are either reserved for residents or park- ing is for a fee. It is only possible to get to the im- mediate vicinity of the centre by car if you have a special permit, which can be bought at Mírové náměstí for 20 CZK/hour. FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN Park Bohemium Park Bohemium - an educational trail with perfect miniatures of the major buildings and technical monuments in the Czech Republic. So, for instance, you will be able to see the rotunda on Mount Říp, the wine cellars in Southern Moravia, the futuristic hotel at Ještěd, Karlštejn Castle or the chateau in Český Krumlov. More than six dozen highly detailed models at a scale of 1:25, and all this in a beautiful park next to the hotel Krakonoš. Open:April-Novemberdaily10:00–17:30hours Contact:Krakonoš665,MariánskéLázně phone:+420354621377 www.boheminium.cz OURTIP FROMTHESURROUNDINGS ...... Kynžvart Chateau Kynžvart Chateau, with its extensive park, is located about a kilometre from the town of Lázně Kynžvart and 10 km from Mariánské Lázně. At the begin- ning, the end of the 16th century, a Renaissance fortress stood here, which was later converted into a Baroque chateau. Kynžvart Chateau’s most fa- mous owner was the Austrian Chancellor Klement Metternich. It was Prince Metternich who gathered many of Kynžvart’s art objects, coins, weapons and, inparticular,books,oftenhand-writtenmanuscripts and incunabula. You can also see the Metternich study with its folding table, the chateau armoury with 220 weapons or the cabinet of curiosities. You can get to the chateau from Mariánské Lázně by car or by bus, which departs from the station, but also stops in the centre at Chebská křižovatka. Open:Apr,Sat,Sunfrom9–16hours,May-JunTue-Sun 9–16 hours, July-Aug, 9–17 hours, Sept Tue-Sun, 9–16 hours,OctSat,Sun9–16hours Admission:fullCZK110,concessionsCZK70-90 OURTIPS................................... MariánskéLázněcanalsoboastauniquegolfcourse, whichisthesecondoldestinEurope.Itwasfounded by the English King Edward VII in 1905. In the winter monthsitisprimarilyusedbyloversofcross-country skiing, which is why you will find many kilometres of well-maintained tracks here and in the surround- ings. Whilst walking in the woods above Mariánské Lázně you can use a cable car that has its lower station next to the ski grounds and here you can also hire terrain scooters or bikes, primarily for the younger visitors. The upper station is at Bohemium Park. From here there are many marked trails. MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ TRIPS

VÝLETY You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

• Comfortable accommodation in spa hotels Nové Lázně*****, Centrální Lázně****, Maria Spa****, Hvězda****, Imperial ****, Pacifik****, Butterfly**** Vltava***, Labe***, Svoboda*** • Traditional spa treatments in- cluding 24 procedures per week and a laboratory examination • A Relaxational Wellness & Beauty programme • Spa treatments using natu- ral medicinal sources – min- eral springs, natural medicinal Maria’s gas and peat to cure dis- orders of the locomotive sys- tem, kidneys and the urinary tract, the respiratory tract, gynaecologic and metabolic disorders • The historic area of the Roman style baths with pools, a min- eral bath in the Royal Cabin and Maria´s dry carbonated pool A REAL SPA IN A SPA TOWN NOVÉ LÁZNĚ ***** HVĚZDA **** CENTRÁLNÍ LÁZNĚ **** IMPERIAL **** MARIA SPA **** Marienbad Kur & Spa Hotels Marienbad Kur & Spa Hotels Tradition, style, elegance

MARIÁNSKÉ LÁZNĚ MARIENBAD KUR & SPA HOTELS Masarykova 22 353 29 Mariánské Lázně Tel.: +420 354 655 501-9 Fax: +420 354 655 500 E-mail: reservations@badmarienbad.cz www.marienbad.cz www.marienbad.cz BUTTERFLY **** VLTAVA *** SVOBODA *** LABE *** PACIFIK ****

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 42 SOKOLOV WHAT TO VISIT ................ Sokolov Chateau The chateau is situated in the town centre, just a short walk from the square. It consists of a two storey building with four wings and an enclosed courtyard with four corner towers. The centre of the courtyard is decorated with a fountain. It is interesting that its northern towers are cylindrical and the southern tow- ers are angular with circular lower parts. On the south side there is a balcony with a small portal. Above the main portal is the Nostitz coat of arms, the inner courtyard has arcades. The chateau’s current form is from the last Classicist reconstruction in 1805. The chateau houses the Sokolov district Museum. The mu- seum specialises in mining. Sokolov is first mentioned in 1279 as the property of the Nothaft family. Apart from 1938 – 1945, the town always belonged to Bohemia. According to the dialect and folklore, the town’s German residents fell under the linguistic area of Cheb - Egerland in German. Even though it was surrounded by ramparts and had its own administration, Sokolov was always a vassal town and the centre of the Sokol estate. From 1435 - 1621 the Sokol town and estate belonged to the powerful Šlik family, who built extensive colonies along the River Ohře and in the Ore Mountains. For their part in the Czech uprising, after the Battle of White Mountain, the Šlik estate was confiscated and was transferred to the Kostic family in 1622 who owned the town and estate until 1850 and the chateau until 1945. SOKOLOV TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 43 SOKOLOV TRIPS St. James’ Church The Church of St. James the Greater stands in the old part of Sokolov between the Old and Rose squares. The Church of St. James the Greater has a single nave and the main altar, by Jan Pavel Seydl, dates from 1756; two side altars from the Servite Church of St. Michael in Prague were transported here in 1786. We can also see the sandstone baptismal font (1679), the pulpit from the 18th century, the original Baroque pews and other Baroque furnishings. The Fallout Shelter and the Technical Museum The Museum of Twentieth Century Objects is housed in the former fallout shelter in Sokolov. The building itself is fascinating, most of the shelter’s equipment still works and visitors have a chance to look over the measures in- tended to protect the population from nuclear attack. Many interesting things are on display, from treadle sewing machines to radios and projectors. A rarity is the small BMW 700 from 1959 with a two-stroke motorcycle engine. Not only can you look at the objects, you can also try them out, for example, take a ride on the hundred year old bicycles, sit down in a car, on a bike or in a carriage. Open: all year Tue-Sun 11:00 to 17:00. Contact: Lipová 2038, Sokolov www.sokolov.jadernykryt.cz ACCOMMODATION........... Hotel Global The Hotel Global is located in the wooded landscape on the bank of the River Ohře, next to Sokolov’s train and bus station. It has a bar with a pleasant garden terrace. There is free Wi-Fi and free private parking. All the hotel’s rooms and apartments have a bathroom and TV. Every morning you can enjoy a buffet breakfast in this historic villa. It is a 5-minute walk to the main historical square in Sokolov with Karlovy Vary, Cheb and Františkovy Lázně just a 20-minute drive away. Price for a double room CZK 1 200, apartment 1 400 CZK Contact: Hotel Globál U Divadla 589, Sokolov Tel.: + 420 352 605 305 e-mail: info@globalhotel.cz www.globalhotel.cz

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 44 Parkhotel Sokolov Parkhotel Sokolov can be found in the centre of Sokolov and is situated in the quiet and peaceful environs of the protected chateau park. The hotel has standard rooms, a restau- rant, lounges, a bar and conference facilities. For leisure and relaxation, you can take ad- vantage of the swimming pool, which has a waterslide, the fitness studio, wellness, or the Finnish sauna with a whirlpool. Price for a double room CZK 1500 , FIRST CLASS CZK 2300 Contact: Husovy sady 2044, Sokolov tel.: + 420 352 605 600 email: recepce@parkhotel-sokolov.cz www.parkhotel-sokolov.cz Penzion Piano This guest house is situated in the centre of the picturesque Old Town Square. It has 6 Standard double rooms and two De Lux dou- ble rooms, (with the possibility of extra beds) an en-suite bathroom, TV, telephone, fridge and Internet connections. The rooms offer beautiful views of the square with its Baroque fountain. Breakfast will be served according to your wishes. You can use up to 7 free parking spaces. Price for a double room CZK 1 200, apartment 1 400 CZK Contact: Staré náměstí 35, Sokolov tel.: + 420 352 600451 e-mail: info@penzion-piano.cz www.penzion-piano.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES....... Restaurace Koruna You can find a good restaurant in the town centre on the Old Square. Choose from a wide selection of dishes, there is a large se- lection of meats, in various styles as well as great steaks, large salads or pasta. We rec- ommend visiting the restaurant’s first floor, where it is more peaceful and cosier. Meals range from CZK 100 - 250, beer 0.5 l - CZK 24 Contact: Staré náměstí 68, Sokolov tel.: + 420 352 623 974, e-mail: restaurace.koruna.sokolov@seznam.cz www.restaurace-koruna-sokolov.cz STEAK BAR George SOKOLOV TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 45 In this restaurant, where they mainly focus on steaks and Mexican cuisine, you’ll find easy-going staff and great food. The menu is changed regularly and is themed on different countries’ cuisine. This establishment is also located in the city centre close to Náměstí Budovatelů. Contact: 5. května 1806, Sokolov tel.: +420 722 533 971 JACK’S LEGENDARY PUB A famous local club where the fun lasts until the morning hours. You can find it in the town centre on the Old Square. You can choose from a plethora of whiskies or premium rums. In warm weather, you can take advantage of the garden in front of the bar. Opening hours: non-stop Contact: Staré náměstí 43, Sokolov TRANSPORT..................... Sokolov lies near the Cheb – Karlovy Vary mo- torway. Train connections from Prague are not good; we recommend that you either travel by car or by bus. The town has ample parking space, though there are parking fees around the large squares in the centre. FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN .................. Michal Outdoor Pool The Michal outdoor pool has many attractions and is located near to Sokolov not far from the Karlovy Vary - Cheb motorway. Apart from a 500 m beach, visitors can look forward to great attractions for children and adults alike, in- cluding a giant water plume, sports, food, but above all clean water. The water quality ranks Michal among the cleanest natural reservoirs in the Czech Republic. You can enjoy the large water trampoline, pedadlos or a 190 m long water plume along with a 117 metre long triple slide. Open: from 1.6. to 31.8. Admission: adults CZK 70, children CZK 50 Contact: The swimming pool is located near Sokolov not far from the village of Vitkov www.michal-sokolov.cz OUR TIP FROM THE SURROUNDINGS ...... Loket This town is a must see when visiting Sokolov and its surroundings. It is a gorgeous ancient city, whose dominant feature is Loket Castle, which stands on a rock in a bend of the River SOKOLOV TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 46 Ohře. In the town itself you can wander be- tween the historic houses or walk around the remains of the town’s fortifications. In the grounds of the castle complex, which is open all year round, you can find the impressive Torture Right exhibition, where in each cell moving mannequins show the various ways to torture people. In addition, there is an ex- hibition of porcelain from previous centuries and the present. The town has a large number of restaurants, souvenir shops and a local mi- crobrewery. In the summer months the town organises lots of cultural events. Loket lies 8 kilometres from the town of Sokolov. Svatošské Rocks The Svatošské Rocks are situated on the left bank of the River Ohře close to Karlovy Vary, near the village of Doubí. It is a group of mas- sive granite rocks, which was first declared a protected reserve in 1933. The Svatošské Rocks are a very attractive location due to their natural beauty. Opposite there is a restaurant with a garden for taking a break, which is heavily frequented by visitors using the local bike trail. This place is a 15-minute drive from the town of Sokolov, or you can make a bike trip along the bike trail that runs along the River Ohře. SOKOLOV TRIPS

You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 48 MONUMENTS ........................ The Orthodox Church of St. Peter and Paul The beautifully decorated Byzantine style Orthodox Church of St. Peter and Paul was built in the then emerging elite residential area of the Westend in 1893-1898. The building was modelled on the Byzantine-old Russian church near Moscow. The richly decorated church in the shape of a Greek cross is topped by five gold-plated domes. The walls of the Church are decorated by rich ornamental sculptures and figurative paintings. The church’s inner furnish- ings consist of rich majolica wooden iconostasis with oil icons. St. Mary Magdalene’s Church Originally a Medieval Gothic church, St. Mary Magdalene’s Church is surrounded by a ceme- tery and was built in the second half of the 14th century, on the hill above the Thermal Spring KARLOVY VARY The largest and best known Czech spa is famous far beyond the borders of the Czech Republic. The city was founded in the 14th century by Charles IV. The spa enjoyed the pat- ronage of many noble families and wealthy burghers in the 16th century. Due to several natural disasters only a few of the buildings from this period have been preserved. Most of the monuments come from the 18th and 19th century. The River Teplá flows through the city centre and is lined by promenades where there are luxury hotels, colonnades and many shops, mostly with global fashion brands, souvenirs for visitors, or restaurants and bars. Grocery stores or fast food shops can be found in the centre around T.G. Masaryk Avenue. In addition the spa city also puts on its own sports and cultural events. The most important cultural event is the Karlovy Vary Film Festival, when the city is inundated by thousands of film buffs in addition to the spa guests. TRIPS KARLOVY VARY

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 49 in the middle of Karlovy Vary. The Church was rebuilt in 1518. The church’s interior is richly dec- orated with Baroque fixtures from the 18th cen- tury. In the church’s basement it is worth taking a look at the unique burial crypt of the original Gothic church which holds the skeletal remains from the defunct cemetery. The church is located directly in the city’s spa centre, in front of the Thermal Spring Colonnade. WHAT TO VISIT.................. The Colonnades Mill Colonnade - a neo-Renaissance stone colonnade with twelve allegorical sandstone statues representing each month of the year. In all five mineral springs rise up in the interior of Karlovy Vary’s biggest colonnade. Orchard Colonnade - A decorated, fixed, cast- iron colonnade, it is the last remnant of the con- cert and catering hall called Blanenský Pavilion built in the 1880’s. The Snake Spring rises here and the Orchard Spring is also accessible from the colonnade. Market Colonnade - A richly carved, wooden colonnadefrom1883.Inall,threemineralsprings rise in the interior of the Market Colonnade: the Charles IV Spring, the Lower Castle Spring and the Market Spring. Thermal Spring Colonnade - A modern glass- walled colonnade in which Thermal Spring, the most popular Karlovy Vary mineral spring, rises. Here the Thermal Spring geyser shoots to a height of twelve metres. In one minute this geyser pumps out an average of 2000 litres of mineral water at a temperature of 73 °C. Viewpoints Stag’s Leap, Peter’s Heights, Diana Lookout Tower or the Charles’ V Lookout Point When you visit these or other viewpoints you will see the city centre and the beautiful facades of the historical buildings along the River Teplá spread out before you. A funicular will take you to the Diana observation tower; its lower sta- tion is by the Thermal Spring Colonnade on Divadelní náměstí. Jan Becher Museum The Jan Becher Museum is located in the Centre of Karlovy Vary. This exhibition gives you all the history and present of the famous herbal liqueur. Apart from displays of historical exhib- its associated with Becherovka, the tour of the museum takes you past some of the original production and underground areas, you can watch a unique film and taste some specialities from the museum’s bar. To close with you can visit the museum shop and buy Becherovka or another bottle from the company’s wide range all at discount prices. Admission: CZK 120, concessions CZK 60 Open: daily from 9 to 17 hours Contact: T. G. Masaryka 57, Karlovy Vary phone: + 420 359 578 142 e-mail: muzeum@jan-becher.com www.becherovka.cz TRIPS KARLOVY VARY

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 50 The Moser Visitor Museum The Moser Visitors Centre offers a unique glimpse into the 155 year history of the world famous glass manufacturer - Moser Glassworks. The glass museum presents luxury crystal prod- ucts from Moser and displays items from the oldest glass creations to the latest collections. During the tour of the glassworks you will expe- rience the unique atmosphere of the produc- tion process. You can round off your visit with a trip to the company’s gift shop. Admission: CZK 80 – 180, concessions CZK 50 - 100 Contact: Kpt. Jaroše 46/19, Karlovy Vary phone: + 420 353 416 112 e-mail: museum@moser-glass.com www.museum@moser-glass.com An excursion of the Underground Thermal Spring In the old underground parts of the Thermal Spring Colonnade you can take the Underground Thermal Spring tour. During the tour you will see the process of turning souve- nirs into stone using thermal spring water, the rare organisms living in places bathed with thermo-mineral water, the piping from the last century scaled with thermal water, a collection of sinters and aragonites and other attractions. Tickets can be purchased at the sales stall in the main hall of the Thermal Spring Colonnade. Admission: CZK 90, concessions CZK 75 ACCOMMODATION........... Grandhotel Pupp The Grandhotel Pupp in Karlovy Vary was built in 1701 and became one of the landmarks of the world famous spa city. The Hotel boasts 228 luxuriously furnished rooms. A fully equipped wellness centre, complete with a range of spa services, casino and restaurant is available for the hotel’s guests. In the extensive complex you can find, for example, the Grandrestaurant Pupp in the neo-classic style with first-class cuisine and superb service, the Club Malá Dvorana with gourmet specialities and a 19th century atmo- sphere or the Becher’s Bar with live music and a wide selection of beers and cocktails. You can enjoy famous cakes or desserts in the Café Pupp. Price for a double room from CZK 5700. Contact: Mírové náměstí 316/2, Karlovy Vary phone: + 420 353 109 111 e-mail: recepce@pupp.cz www.pupp.cz Hotel Ontario The Hotel Ontario Garni is located in the spa centre of Karlovy Vary, in a quiet and peaceful environment directly above the Mill Colonnade just a few steps from the healing springs. The hotel offers accommodation with breakfast in twelve comfortably furnished apartments. All rooms are equipped with period furniture and have spectacular views of the city. Also included are a satellite TV, a kitchenette with a kettle and fridge. The spacious bathrooms are equipped with either a bath or shower and a hairdryer. Breakfast, in the form of a buffet, is served in our café. A guarded car park right by the hotel is available to hotel guests free of charge. Price for a double room CZK 2000 Contact: Hotel Ontario Garni Zámecký vrch 20, Karlovy Vary phone: + 420 353 222 091 e-mail: ontario@bauhold.cz www.hotelontario.cz KARLOVY VARY TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 51 TRIPS KARLOVY VARY RESTAURANTS, CAFES....... Top Restaurace Promenáda This restaurant is located in the Promenáda Hotel by the Chateau Colonnade, it has about 20seats,anditsserviceandcuisineisfamous,in- deed it can be said that it is definitely one of the best, where you can dine and enjoy the luxury that this restaurant has to offer. A local speciality is white goose liver in calvados, venison with chanterelles or rabbit thighs in wine. Of course this is an expensive restaurant, but despite this it is still best to book ahead for the evening. The restaurant offers traditional French service – for example crepes made in front of the guests. It has its own vineyard and wine cellar. Contact: Tržiště 31, Karlovy Vary phone: +420 353225648 e-mail: hotel@hotel-promenada.cz www.hotel-promenada.cz Ventura PUB Approximately 10 minutes walking distance from the city centre, towards Tuhnice, you will find the VENTURA PUB-EVROPÁK. In a pleas- ant environment with a wide range of dishes, plenty of seating, which is increased in summer by a terrace, you can enjoy high-quality food at good prices and excellent tank beer. In the menu you can find both specialities and classi- cal Czech dishes. Meals range from CZK 100 - 300, beer 0.5 l - CZK 29 Contact: Jízdárenská 1, Karlovy Vary phone:+ 420 353 228 507 e-mail: evropak@email.cz www.evropak.cz NIGHT LIFE ........................... The Barracuda Caribbean Cocktail Bar The Barracuda bar is one of the favourite es- tablishments in Karlovy Vary. This is testified to by the fully occupied tables and packed dance floor. Every Friday and Saturday you can dance to the hits of the 1980’s and 1990’s. The great at- mosphere is naturally complemented by excel- lent drinks and friendly staff. Not only can you taste classic drinks and original cocktails but also something mixed to your own recipe. Contact: Jaltská 7, Karlovy Vary e-mail: info@barracuda-bar.cz www.barracuda-bar.cz TRANSPORT ....................... Karlovy Vary is 130 km from Prague and apart from driving there is also a good connec- tion by bus. You can also go by train (there are two stations - Main and Lower) and it is even possible to fly here, a true novelty among Czech cities. Karlovy Vary has its own airport, where they fly charter flights from Russia and charter flights to seaside resorts. Otherwise you can drive round Karlovy Vary, but be aware of the need to buy a permit to enter the spa zone, otherwise you can use the scenic train or, for the more demanding, a horse-drawn carriage to explore. But don’t miss out on the funicular, from which you can see Karlovy Vary stretch out below you with the beautiful facades of its historic buildings lining the River Ohře. Another means could be by canoe, and sometimes they even have races here. FORFAMILIESWITHCHILDREN DuringavisittoSt.Luke’sChurch,which is one of Karlovy Vary’s neo-Gothic gems, visit

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 52 TRIPS the Wax Museum. The exhibition is made up of the oldest wax dummies in the world and will acquaint you with the famous visitors to Karlovy Vary, such as royal families, politicians, generals, dictators, film and music stars or ath- letes. The wax mannequins are dressed in pe- riod costumes that characterise the individual personalities. They are all made exclusively by hand, and during the same time period of the person’s life. Contact: St. Luke’s Church Zámecký vrch 4, Karlovy Vary e-mail: info@houseofwax.cz, www.houseofwax.eu The outdoor rope centre is located in Karlovy Vary’s Lázeňské lesy. The rope centre is a good destination for sports enthusiasts who like to test their physical and mental capabilities. Here you will find circuits with rope obstacles for chil- dren and adults alike, low rope and top-rope obstacles. Trained instructors make sure every- thing runs smoothly and safely. The rope centre is located at the former St. Linhart Restaurant at Doubí in Karlovy Vary. You can take the num- ber 6 towards Doubí and get off at the stop Svatošská, cross the road and follow the street U jezírka, then take the forest path and join up with the asphalt path going uphill; alternatively you can walk down from the Diana Observation Point, which has a funicular running to it. Open on the weekends May - October, every day July and August, Entry: adults: CZK 250, children CZK 70 Contact: Přírodní lanové centrum Svatý Linhart, Karlovy Vary phone: + 420 720 119 314 e-mail: yetti.netopilik@seznam.cz www.prirodni-lanove-centrum.cz OUR TIP FROM THE SURROUNDINGS ........ Nad Bečvou Chateau The town is dominated by the state-owned Bečov Castle and Chateau. Originally a Gothic castle from the beginning of the 14th century, it was badly damaged during the Thirty Years’ War and subsequently abandoned. In the early 18th century a magnificent baroque castle was built in the castle’s vicinity. The grounds are complemented by a beautiful Italian terraced garden. The biggest attraction of Bečov Castle is a reliquary of St. Maurus from the beginning of the 13th century, whose value is comparable with the Czech Crown Jewels. This unique Romanesque relic of European importance, a gilded box set with gems, encasing the remains of several saints, was found buried in the castle chapel in 1985. www.karlovyvary.cz KARLOVY VARY

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 53 THE CZECH ASSOCIATION OF SPAS THE CZECH ASSOCIATION OF SPAS Městský úřad Třeboň Palackého nám. 46/II 379 01 Třeboň E-mail: info@jedemedolazni.cz www.jedemedolazni.cz How to plan a vacation at a Spa? – RECOMMENDATIONS AND ADVICE A holiday in the Czech Republic around the interesting spa locations, whether by car, train or bicycle, is well worth it. The choice is solely up to you. You can plan a vacation around eight regions with spa locations; you can find all the latest news and information at www. jedemedolazni.cz Each spa is aimed at the treatment and pre- vention of specific diseases and health prob- lems. However, in addition to traditional lon- ger-term therapeutic stays, most of the spas also offer themed relaxation and active stays for shorter periods. Choose a spa according to your needs and go there to rest and take it easy in the relaxing atmosphere, beautiful countryside and cultural centres. Aurora Spa Aurora Spa, in a large park on the shores of the pond Svět (World), is just 1 km from the historical centre of Třeboň and offers a wide range of services with a great many choices. • Therapeutic and relaxation stays • Exotic wellness massage • Newly constructed * * * * rooms • A Wellness Centre, bowl- ing, squash • A swimming pool complex, water attractions • Conferencerooms•Restaurants,cafés,bars www.aurora.cz Bertina‘s Spa Bertina‘s Spa Třeboň can be found in the heart of the town‘s historic centre close to the conservation zone. In addition to classic therapeutic stays, which focus on treating the locomo- tory apparatus, it also offers relaxation and wellness stays. • Therapeutic and reconditioning stays • Relaxation pro- cedures, a swimming pool • A sport park (tennis, bowling, squash) • A restaurant, pizzeria, café • Conference rooms • Cycling trips www.berta.cz The municipal peat spa for treating and reconditioning the locomotory apparatus. Come for some rest and refreshment in the town that reflects the silver of the surrounding ponds, where spa guests mingle with cyclists, tourists, boaters and mushroom pickers to ad- mire the beauty of the surrounding countryside. TŘEBOŇ – THE PEARL OF SOUTHERN BOHEMIA TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 54 TRIPS KARLOVY VARY

from SHOCART

56 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia MONUMENTS .................. St. Barbara’s Church The church has always been a symbol of the city and remains Kutná Hora’s most famous building. With its ring of chapels around the main altar, Saint Barbara’s Church is considered to be the most original late Gothic cathedral in Europe. The building has become an expres- sion of the city’s former wealth and power. The church was founded around 1388. It is 70 m long, 40 m wide and 30 m high inside. The church’s conspicuous resemblance to Prague St. Vitus’ Cathedral is no coincidence, the city wanted to be on a par with Prague and many Prague builders took part in building the cathedral in Kutná Hora. We recommend that you buy a ticket for the cathedral’s gal- lery, where you can get an unusual bird’s eye view of the church’s main nave and altar as well as being able to see the exhibition of the church’s construction. Kutná Hora, a town in the Central Bohemian region and an important urban reserva- tion, is registered on the list of UNESCO World Heritage sites. It is a former royal city associated with silver mining and coin minting, the treasury of Czech Kings, and is dominated by two cathedrals. In the Middle Ages, at the end of 13th century, the district provided roughly one third of Europe’s silver. Nowadays the city is regularly visited for its historical beauty and its abundance of important monuments. KUTNÁ HORA KUTNÁ HORA TRIPS

57 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia The Corpus Christi Chapel This inconspicuous building in the immediate vicinity of St. Barbara’s recalls the period just be- fore work started on the Cathedral. At the time the Brotherhood of Corpus Christi founded a cemetery chapel with an ossuary inspired by the famous ossuary in Sedlec. This gave rise to a beautiful indoor space in the high Gothic style. The Jesuit College One of the most important early Baroque monuments in Bohemia took almost eighty years to build, from 1667 to the middle of the 18th century. An integral part of the college’s grounds is a path with a gallery of baroque sculpture. This monument can be found neighbouring the cathedral and the way to the city centre. Currently it houses the Gallery of the Central Bohemian Region – GASK. The GASK primarily focuses on the visual arts from the 20th and 21st century. Contact: GASK Barborská 51– 53, Kutná Hora www.gask.cz The Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist The rare and unique UNESCO monument - the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist in Sedlec near Kutná Hora - is a convent of the former Cistercian Abbey, the oldest in Bohemia (founded in 1142). Together with the world-famous Sedlec Ossuary, this cathedral forms an integral part of the oldest part of Kutná Hora. Open: all year Admission: CZK 50, concessions 30 Contact: Katedrála Nanebevzetí Panny Marie Zámecká 127, Kutná Hora The ossuary in Sedlec A unique ossuary can be found below the Church of all Saints at the Kutná Hora cemetery in Sedlec, it is decorated almost entirely with human bones. It is made of the remains of the deceased from the plague epidemics. There are forty thousand and they are stacked into pyra- mids whilst others are used for unusual decora- tions, such as chandeliers, columns, and so on. Admission: full CZK 90, concessions CZK 60 Contact: Kostnice Kutná Hora – Sedlec Zámecká 279, Kutná Hora www.ossuary.eu The Czech Museum of Silver At the museum you can see exhibitions on the city’s history and learn something about local life, or inspect samples of all the ores that were mined here. In the hall called the treasury you can see the Czech coins minted in Kutná Hora. Of course, the biggest attraction is the Second Tour - The Way of Silver, which acquaints you with the entire process the silver ore had to go KUTNÁ HORA TRIPS

58 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia through until it was minted into a coin. Part of the tour is a replica of the mining works with the technical equipment, a scenic exhibition showing the processing of silver ore and the mint with an original large horse-powered mining machine or authentic medieval min- ing works. Open: Apr - Sep, Tue - Sun 9 - 18 hours, Admission: CZK 120, concessions CZK 80 Kontakt: České muzeum stříbra Barborská 28, Kutná Hora phone: +420 327 512 159 e-mail: info@cms-kh.cz www.cms-kh.cz ACCOMMODATION ......... Vila U Varhanáře Hotel The Vila U Varhanáře Hotel is situated in a baroque house next to the Jesuit College and the Castle in Kutná Hora. The building is dominated by a large summer terrace under the Baroque statues along the Royal Path, this gives breath-taking views of the city’s land- marks. Guests can stay in 12 rooms with a total capacity of 31 beds. We recommend booking room number 5, which has a large terrace with a wonderful view of the cathedral. Price for a twin-bed room CZK 1400, per apart- ment CZK 1900 Contact: Vila U Varhanáře Barborská 11, Kutná Hora phone: +420 327 536 900 e-mail: info@uvarhanare.cz www. uvarhanare.cz Apartmá Dostálovi Due to its convenient location in the centre of Kutná Hora and its comfortable facilities Apartmá Dostálovi is a good place for tourists and families with children who want to have all the city’s major landmarks right at their fin- gertips. The apartment is located in the attic of a family house and has lovely views of the greenery and some of the sights. There is free parking at the hotel. Free WIFI throughout the building Price for a twin-bed room CZK 1500 Contact: Apartmá Dostálovi Rakova 47/7, Kutná Hora phone: +420 481 001 990 e-mail: kamila@apartmadostalovi.cz www.apartmadostalovi.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES...... Restaurant and Hotel U Hrnčíře The U Hrnčíře Restaurant is a smaller establish- ment in a beautifully kept, old building. Due to its position it is easy to walk to all of Kutná KUTNÁ HORA TRIPS

59 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Hora’s tourist attractions, with Saint Barbara’s Church and the Museum of Silver a mere stone’s throw away. In the summer months you can take advantage of the terrace over- looking St. James’ Church. The hotel’s restaurant has a menu packed with delicacies and a wonderful family atmosphere. Guests’ comments. They also offer excellent accommodation. Meals range from: CZK 120 - 250, beer 0.5 l - CZK 29, wine 0.7 l from CZK 150 Kontakt: Barborská 24/5, Kutná Hora www.hoteluhrncire.cz U Žlutého kola Restaurant The say that the way to the heart is through the stomach, so we hope you will fall in love with our restaurant. Here you can look forward to a pleasant environment and an interesting selection of specialities and beverages. You will be welcomed by a calm pleasant atmo- sphere with friendly professional staff. We can also arrange festive feasts (birthdays, corpo- rate dinners, weddings, etc.). Meals range from CZK 80 - 170, 0.5 l beer CZK 27, wine 0.7 l from CZK 120 Contact: Havlíčkovo náměstí 512/16 Kutná Hora Tel.: +420 777 244 404 www.uzlutehokola.webnode.cz FOR KIDS .......................... Museum of Alchemy In the centre of Kutná Hora in the Sankturinovský Dům on Palackého Square you will find the Museum of Alchemy. The mu- seum is conceived of as an alchemist’s work- shop or laboratory, where wax alchemists seek out the philosopher’s stone and the elixir of eternal youth. In other rooms you will find a kaleidoscopic cinema or the Golem. Open daily: April – Sept. 9 - 18 hours/Oct - March Mon - Fri 9 - 17 hours, Sat - Sun 10 - 16 hours Admission: CZK 60, concessions 40 Contact: Palackého nám. 377, Kutná Hora phone: +420 327 512 378 TRANSPORT .................. Kutná Hora lies an hour’s drive from Prague, or 45 minutes from Pardubice. From Prague there are direct rail and bus connections and the train leaves every hour. Your information sys- tem will be of great help when traveling by car, guiding you to the sights and the adjacent car parks. The city centre is a network of narrow one-way streets and it is not easy to navigate. OUR TIP.......................... When you visit the monuments in Kutná Hora’s purchase a TROJVSTUPENKA which includes admission to three of Kutná Hora’s most beautiful religious monument: St. Barbara’s Church, the Ossuary and the Cathedral of the Assumption of Our Lady in Sedlec CZK 160 (adults, seniors)/CZK 110 (children, students). Or a ČTYŘVSTUPENKA which also includes entry to the Gallery of Central Bohemia, CZK 280 (adults, seniors)/CZK 190 (children, stu- dents). KUTNÁ HORA TRIPS

60 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia KUTNÁ HORA TRIPS The Czech Museum of Silver Do you love history and find wandering around mysterious underground passages attractive? You can enjoy all of this by visiting the Czech Museum of Silver in Kutná Hora. The museum is housed in the Gothic Hrádek Castle, which arose in the 13th century, and has several permanent exhibits: The Czech Museum of Silver, p.o., Barborská 28, 284 01 Kutná Hora We recommend that you reserve tours of the silver mine: info@cms-kh.cz, www.cms-kh.cz Tour 1. „City of Silver“ – introduces the geological evolution of the Kutná Hora region and the city‘s history. Tour II - „The Way of Silver“ - this presents the technology for mining and processing the ore. The tour culminates with a visit to the mediaeval silver mine. Tyl House - The birth pace of the Czech dramatist and writer J. K. Tyl where you can find the permanent exhibition – „The Kutna Hora Underground and its Surveying“, which introduces the most important discoveries of the speleological survey in Kutná Hora in the last two decades. The Stone House is one of the most important monuments of late-Gothic European architecture. After reconstruction in 1490 it acquired a relief decoration to the gable from Master Brikci of Breslau. Now the Stone House has two permanent exhibitions: The Royal Town – the Culture and Life of Burghers in the 17th -19th Century and the Lapidary: The Art of the Stonemasons from the Jagiellon Period, which presentsacollectionofuniquestonesculpturesandarchitectural segments from Kutna Hora‘s most important monuments. Traditional Olde Bohemian restaurant

61 TRIPS A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia KUTNÁ HORA on the detailed maps from SHOCART

62 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia TÁBOR Over the centuries, the city has undergone many structural changes, but its medieval nature re- mains to this day. Thanks to the system of devel- opment and the number of preserved monu- ments the city’s historical core has remained a conservation area. Upon arriving in the city look for the central point of your city tour, Husovo náměstí. It shouldn’t be a problem thanks to the excellent tourist signpost- ing. It is also the highest point in the city. You will find most of the tourist attractions and accommo- dation on this square and the surrounding areas and when exploring the winding streets surround- ing the old Gothic houses you’ll come across inter- esting pubs and souvenir shops. There is an excel- lenttouristinformationcentreonthesquarewhere they are glad to give you some good advice. MONUMENTS.................... Exhibition of Tábor’s treasure The exhibition is housed in the Renaissance malt house in the grounds of the former Kotnov Castle. It is dedicated to the unique finding from 2001, when, during the reconstruction of house no.308,twoceramicvesselsfilledwithfourthou- sand silver coins were discovered. This treasure is one of the most important coin hoards from the Jagiellonian period made in the country. It is the second largest South Bohemian city with a glorious past and a number of archi- tectural monuments and natural wonders. It is inextricably associated with the Hussite movement and its main movers, in particular Jan Žižka from Trocnov. A castle and the town of Hradiště were built on the site of the ancient settlement in the 13th century. The Hussites, followers of Jan Hus’s teachings, the great reformer of the Catholic Church, took advantage of the city’s strategic position and founded a military city here in 1420. It was from here that they led their victorious campaigns under the direction of Tábor’s governors. Thanks to its convenient location, surrounded by the river Lužnice and rocky precipices, and the fortifications, the town was famous for being an impregnable for- tress. After the defeat of the Hussites at the Battle of Lipany the Taborites made peace with Emperor Sigismond and in 1437 was elevated to a Royal City. TÁBOR TRIPS

63 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Open: May - September: Mon - Sun 9:00-12:00 and 13:00-17:00, October - April: Mon - Sun 10:00-12:00 and13:00-16:00 Admission:CZK20 Contact:Renaissancemalthouseinthegrounds oftheformerKotnovCastle www.taborcz.eu Underground Passages The roughly 650 metres that are open repre- sents just a fraction of Tábor’s underground passages, which are some of the longest in the Czech Republic and date back to the 15th century. The corridors arose by digging and linking multi-storey cellars under the houses in the old town and served mainly for storing food and beer. During large fires they also pro- vided good shelter. The entrance to the cellars and the ticket office is located at the Town Hall and Museum. Open: year-round, Admission: CZK 50, extra for a guided tour in a foreign language, CZK 200 for a group Contact: Husitské muzeum Tábor Žižkovo náměstí 1, Tábor, www.husitskemuzeum.cz Kotnov Castle and Bechyńská Gate This is the oldest monument in Tábor dating from the second half of the 13th century. Time and fires led to its losing its defensive sig- nificance so much so that in 1612-1613 it was converted into a brewery. Only one of the four towers of Kotnov Castle has remained and it is open to the public. Here you will find the exhi- bition “The Life and Work of Medieval Society”. There is also an exhibition called “Tábor’s Treasure”, which holds nearly 4,000 silver coins. Follow Klokotská Street from the square to get to the castle. TÁBOR TRIPS

64 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Open: May-September weekends only Admission: Bechyńská Gate CZK 40, Kotnov ob- servation tower, CZK 20, Castle night tour CZK 60, Tábor’sTreasureopenyear-round,admissionCZK20 Contact: Husitské muzeum Tábor ul.Klokotská, Tábor www.husitskemuzeum.cz ACCOMMODATION...... Hotel Nautilus **** The Nautilus Hotel is located in the centre on Žižkovo náměstí. It has 22 uniquely fur- nished rooms in four categories. Each of the luxurious rooms is a unique combination of modern technology, ancient fossils and art deco furniture. The ho- tel has a wellness centre with a wide range of services and a refined restaurant, Goldie, with traditional Czech gastronomy in a modern concept as served by the excellent head chef. Price for a double room from CZK 2900. Contact: Žižkovo náměstí 20, Tábor phone: + 420 380 900 900 email: info@hotelnautilus.cz www.hotelnautilus.cz Hotel Dvořák **** The Hotel Dvořák Tábor is located in the historic centre of Tábor on the site of the origi- nal brewery in close proximity to the castle. The hotel complex offers 72 luxurious rooms. Although the hotel is built on the site of a former brewery, it does not have a microbrewery brewing beer. But you can en- joy the hotel’s Original Beer Spa BBB, a Cleopatra milk bath or a massage. PriceforadoubleroomCZK2300 Contact: Hradební 3037, Tábor phone: + 420 381 207 211 email: dvoraktabor@dvoraktabor.cz www.dvoraktabor.cz Pension 189 Karel Bican This cosy pension is located 150 me- tres from Žižkovo Square. Whatever window you look out of, the view is amazing. One side overlooks the historical centre, the other a soothing view of the River Lužnice and rolling countryside carrying on into the horizon. The building dates from the 14th century and one of the guest house’s attractions are underground passages, which, upon agreement, you can explore. The guest house also has a kitchen, a garden and a sauna. Price for a double room CZK 1200 Contact: Hradební 189/16, Tábor phone: + 420 777 161 643 email: bican@pension189.cz www.pension189.cz Pension ALFA Pension Alfa is located in an ancient building from the 16th century be- tween Žižkovo Square and Kotnov Castle, in the historical heart of Tábor. It offers nine rooms (with one, two, three and four beds). All of the rooms have their own bathroom (bath + WC), telephone and Wi-Fi. Part of the pension is the Whisky Pub, where you can taste 50 types of whisky and 30 types of rums. Price for a double room 850 CZK, pets for CZK 100 Contact: Klokotská 107, Tábor phone: + 420 603 871 233 email: alfa@pensionalfa.cz www.pensionalfa.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES .... Restaurant Goldie Thishotel restaurantentices guestswith a wide range of delicious food and drinks. Goldie is located on the ground floor of the hotel and TÁBOR TRIPS

65 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia offers beautiful views of Žižkovo Square, so you can easily follow passers-by and what’s going on. For even better views, you can sit out on the small ter- race in front of the hotel. Part of the rich interior decoration is focused on gorgeous mirrors and statues. It also has a café bar where you can enjoy excellent coffee, a well-stocked cocktail bar and top local and international wines and beers. Thanks to the quality of the food it is one of the best restaurants in the country. Price for food CZK 250 - 500, beer 0.4 l CZK 40, wine 0.7 l from CZK 250 Contact: Hotel Nautilus Žižkovo náměstí 20, Tábor, phone: + 420 380 900 900 email: info@hotelnautilus.cz www.hotelnautilus.cz. Škochův dům The Škochův dům restaurant, on the corner of Žižkovo Square, offers a pleas- ant environment and a wide selection of drinks, coffee, cocktails and excellent cuisine. The terrace is available in the summer months, with a view of the whole of the historical Žižkovo Square. Meals range from CZK 150 - 350, beer 0.5 l - CZK 32, wine 0.7 l from CZK 230 Contact: Žižkovo náměstí 22, Tábor phone: + 420 381 251 221 www.skochuvdum.com Cafe & Bar Havana A restaurant with a cosy and remarkably “lived in” interior built by the owners in the historical house on Žižkovo Square in 2001, which is why they pamper it so. The cook prepares succulent steaks, excellent pasta dishes and Mexican cuisine. Its re- nowned specialty is baked pork ribs in a honey marinade with excellent cold Pilsen beer to wash it all down with. The outdoor terrace under the building’s arches faces directly on the square. Contact: Žižkovo náměstí 17, Tábor Tel.: +420 381 253 383 www.kafehavana.cz Cafe Campanila Therestaurantislocateddirectlyinthecitycentre onthemainstreetandprovidesaspaceforyouto rest in whilst shopping or walking. In addition to fresh Italian cuisine, the menu offers great cakes, desserts, Knickerbocker glories and pancakes. Contact: Farského 1461/2, Tábor Tel.: +420 381 255 959, +420 603 819771 NIGHT LIFE ...................... If you want to dance the night away until the early hours, you can visit these music clubs in the city centre. Clubs are mainly open on the weekend. Music Club NYX, a 10-minute walk from the square, a club with a modern interior Contact: Tř. 9. května 2471, www.nyxclub.cz Kotnov music club, this club welcomes you in the gothic vaults of Kotnov Castle Contact: Kotnov Castle Klokotská ulice, Tábor www.kotnovclub.cz TRANSPORT ................. Tábor lies on the Prague – České Budějovice route and is an hour’s drive from Prague. By car it is possible to drive to the square in the historic centre, but this is not advis- able due to the lack of parking and the nar- row one-way streets. There are two car parks where you can park in the centre — PARKING CENTRUM (a multi-storey car park) where a lift takes you 200 metres from Žižkovo Square and PARKING at the Dvořák Hotel (former brewery), entry to both car parks is from the street Na Parkánech. TÁBOR TRIPS

66 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN............. The Chocolate Museum In the premises of three historic houses the Museum of Chocolate and Marzipan in Tábor showcases the history of chocolate, its cultiva- tion, the importation of cocoa beans to Europe and the subsequent processing into sweets, bars, pralines and figures. The exhibition also shows the history of packaging and advertising posters, on display are porcelain and pewter kits from which chocolate was drunk in the 19th cen- tury, an aristocratic saloon or a model of cocoa being grown in a forest. The second part of the museum is devoted to marzipan and the ways to process it. You can see a marzipan model of the square and other Tábor landmarks, marzipan models of fairy tales, dresses for dolls. There is a permanentworkshopforallplayfulhands,where you can cast chocolate figures or work with mar- zipan. Admission:adultsCZK130,childrenCZK90 Contact:Kotnovská138,39101Tábor phone:+420381211784,www.cokomuzeum.cz Lego Museum The Lego Museum is divided into several themed circuits, where you will find hundreds of original models from around the world. Several million pieces were used to build the models. The exhibition is constantly being extended and supplemented with interesting and rare pieces. The exhibition also has a laser and light show devoted to Star Wars, which will enthral big and small alike. After visiting the exhibition you can visit the children’s corner, where you can build your own model and even exhibit it. Whilst your little darlings are playing you can treat yourself to some refreshments. Open: September-June only Sat, Sun/July-August everyday10:00-17:00 Admission:adultCZK100,childrenCZK70-80 Contact:Špitálskénáměstí275,Tábor phone: +420602697207 info@muzeumlegatabor.cz www.muzeumlegatabor.cz The ghostly underground and Skřítkov – a poetic exhibition for the youngest Do you like being scared? If you do, you should come and get scared in the ghostly underground! In mys- terious corridors you’ll bump into a whole host of scary creatures - for instance an alchemist and his workshop, the white lady, the executioner, a mummy and much more besides! Watch out, what was that on your leg? And whose bones are these on the ground? Next to the haunted underground there is a poetic exhibition called Skřítkov for the very little ones. Open: July - August: Every day except Fridays 10:00-18:00,May:Sat-Sun10:00-12:00and13:00 - 16:00, September - December: Sat - Sun 13:00 - 16:00 (depending on the weather), January - April: Closed Admission: CZK 50 Contact: Hrnčířská 295, 390 01 Tábor +420 777 264 551 www.strasidelnepodzemi.wz.cz OUR TIP......................... Housův mlýn Housův mlýn is situated five minutes’ walk from the centre of Tábor, under the city walls in the middle of beautiful greenery. It is an expe- riential open air museum about the Hussite’s way of life, culture and warfare. On four floors you can find a commoner’s tavern, a lord’s tav- ern, a main hall, the armoury, the museum of torture, fencing, an attic room, costume rooms and warehouses of props and decorations. There is even a hostel where you can stay. The programme changes constantly. One thing is for sure, boring it isn’t. HUSITSKÁ KRČMA, OPEN IN JULY AND AUGUST ON SATURDAY FROM 14:00 to 18:00 with a pro- gramme for children, and then from 18:00 to 21:00 Contact: www.housuvmlyn.cz TÁBOR TRIPS

67 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia mapa Tábora TÁBOR VÝLETY You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

68 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC Jindřichův Hradec is a town in South Bohemia with a well preserved and carefully restored historic core, which is dominated by the Jindřichův Hradec State Castle and Chateau. There are a large number of monuments in the town that are visited by thousands of tourists, mainly in the summer. The historic core of the city is mostly made up of smaller houses, underlining the character of a small South Bohemian town. It is a varsity town that is vibrant and highly cultured; moreover it is sur- rounded by beautiful countryside. MONUMENTS .................. The Jindřichův Hradec Castle and Chateau After Prague Castle and Český Krumlov, the com- plexofcastleandchateaubuildingsinJindřichův Hradec is the third largest castle complex in the Czech Republic, a national cultural monument and the town’s most important monument. Among the most precious parts of the gothic castle are the Gothic Palace, the Chapel of the Holy Ghost, called the Courthouse, and the unique Black Kitchen in the Red Tower. In the castle garden stands the Roundel music pa- vilion that has gorgeous gilded decorations. The castle and chateau offer three guided tours and a visit to the Black Tower for a spectacular view. All three routes take approximately 50 minutes. In the summer there are costumed night tours of the chateau, which are certainly worth a visit! Open:April-October,dailyexceptMondays Admission: full, 1 route CZK 100, 3 routes 220 CZK, concessions,1routeCZK60,3routesCZK100 Contact:JindřichůvHradecCastleandChateau Dobrovského 1/I, Jindřichův Hradec tel.: + 420 384 321 279 email: jindrichuvhradec@npu.cz www.zamek-jindrichuvhradec.eu JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC TRIPS

69 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia WHAT TO VISIT ................ The Museum of Photography The Museum of Photography and Modern Visual Media mainly focuses on the medium of photog- raphy, but also includes other visual media. The exhibition has works by Czech as well as foreign photographers, significant personalities from the history of (mainly) Czech photography and out- standing contemporary artists. The museum is housed in the historic centre of the town in the immediate vicinity of the 15th meridian in the Renaissance Jesuit College from the end of the 16th century. One of this cultural monument’s sights is the rare ceiling and wall paintings of extraordinary artistic quality. You can round your visit off by spending some time in the stylish Fotocafé. Open:April,May,OctobertoDecember;Saturdays, Sundays, holidays 10:00 – 12:30, 13:00 – 17:00. Jun - Sep; Tuesday - Sunday, holidays 10:00 – 12:30, 13:00 – 17:00. ;closed 24 and 31 December 2014 Admission: full CZK 90, concessions CZK 50 Contact: Museum of Photography Kostelní 20/I , Jindřichův Hradec tel.: +420 384 361 946 e-mail: muzeumshop@mfmom.cz www.mfmom.cz Krýza’s Cribs Krýza’sCribsaretheworkofanativeofJindřichův Hradec and master sock-maker Tomáš Krýza and are among the most popular exhibits in Jindřichův Hradec. Since 1998 the cribs have been in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest mechanical nativity scene in the world. The nativity scene contains 1 398 figurines of people and animals, of which 133 move. This unique work is located in the Jindřichův Hradec Museum. The museum also administers the town’s observation tower at the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary, the corner of which has the aforementioned 15th meridian east longitude running through it. Open: April - January daily except Mondays, June -Augustdaily,8:30–12:00and13:00–17:00 Admission: full CZK 60, concessions CZK 40 Contact: Jindřichův Hradec Museum Balbínovo náměstí 19/I, Jindřichův Hradec e-mail: muzeum@mjh.cz www.mjh.cz The House of Tapestries The House of Tapestries is located in the former chateaubrewerybuildingnearJindřichůvHradec Chateau. It builds on the more than hundred- year tradition of the famous Jindřichův Hradec tapestry workshops. The House of Tapestries of- fersauniqueopportunitytogetacquaintedwith the history of weaving in Jindřichův Hradec and watch the making of new tapestries, as well as the restoration of historical tapestries, all with a professional commentary. JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC TRIPS

70 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Open: April - October daily except Mondays, 10:00 –12:00,13:00–17:00 Admission: full CZK 60, concessions CZK 30 Contact: Dům gobelínů Dobrovského 232/I, Jindřichův Hradec Tel.: + 420 384 370 881 e-mail: info@dumgobelinu.cz www.dumgobelinu.cz ACCOMMODATION.......... Hotel Concertino The Hotel Concertino is located in the heart of the historic town of Jindřichův Hradec. Accommodation is in the hotel’s modern com- plex. Price for a double room CZK 1600 - 2200 Contact: Hotel Concertino Náměstí Míru 141/II, Jindrichuv Hradec tel.: + 420 384 362 320 e-mail: info@concertino.cz www.concertino.cz Penzion U Papoušků Part of the pension is a popular restaurant, which serves Czech and international cuisine, and on warm days you can enjoy it all on the terrace. Price for a double room CZK 1200 Contact: Penzion U Papoušků Na Příkopech 188/II, Jindrichuv Hradec tel.: + 420 602 643 466 e-mail: penzion@upapousku.cz www.upapousku.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES .... Bar – Restaurant Udírna The experiential cuisine relies on a simple menu that is always based on good ingredients, fresh herbs and an open fire. When preparing the meals you can watch the chef as he cooks your food. Whether you try a good helping of honey-and sage ribs, tuck in to a beef steak or try a pork speciality in the form of ‘Krajcpánks’, your satisfaction is guaranteed. Meals range from CZK 145 - 360, beer 0.5 l - CZK 28 Contact: UDÍRNA Kostelní 72, Jindřichův Hradec tel.: + 420 734 528 739 e-mail: info@udirna.com www.udirna.com JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC TRIPS

71 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Restaurant Pod věží The Restaurant Pod věžíislocatedinaquiet part of the historical centre of Jindřichův Hradec, in a side street off the pedestrian zone between Masarykovo náměsti and náměsti Míru. Apart from classic dishes the menu can boast fish and game spe- cialities, which the restaurant chiefly focuses on. The ingredients for their preparation come exclusively from the ponds and forests of South Bohemian. In the summer months you can en- joy your meal on the outdoor terrace, which is located inside the restaurant. Priceofmeals:fromCZK120-350 Contact: Restaurant Pod věží Štítného 128/I, Jindřichův Hradec tel.: + 420 773 575 872 e-mail: restaurace@pod-vezi.eu www.pod-vezi.eu TRANSPORT .................... The town lies on the main Prague – České Budějovice route, 140 km from Prague and 50 km from České Budějovice. It has good bus and train connections from the major cities. The town has a parking fee system and you cannot avoid paying for parking in the centre. We recommend that you park in the streets and squares around the historical centre, it is far cheaper than parking right in the centre on náměsti Míru. The ideal means for exploring the town and its surrounding is undoubtedly by bike. FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN................. Jindřichův Hradec Narrow Gauge Railway If you want to experience a truly unusual train journey from the olden days, drawn by a steam locomotive over a hundred years old, then visit the local station and take a ride. The steam trains set off on the narrow gauge railway from May to September. A ride on this 100 year old historic steam train to the charming nooks and crannies of Jindřichův Hradec and Czech Canada will be a unique and unforgettable experience for every- one, regardless of age. At the Nová Bystřice station youcanvisittheRegionalNarrow-gaugeMuseum. Keepaneyeonthetimetablesonthislinebecause the steam locomotive only runs once a day. Contact: Nádražní 203/II, Jindřichův Hradec tel.: + 420 384 361 165 e-mail: office@jhmd.cz www.jhmd.cz Fábula Fairyland The FÁBULA fairyland is the ideal place for a family outing with the kids. The fun is guaran- teed for all ages regard- less of the weather. You will be transferred to a unique fairy tale world and live through an unexpected adventure and a fairy tale written by the fairyland and its JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC TRIPS

72 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia inhabitants. You will set off with fairy-tale be- ings on a journey through a magical lost world and dark labyrinths, you’ll discover mysterious clues from the fairyland story. Throughout the year there is a rich list of events, theatre for chil- dren and other accompanying activities. The fairyland resort with live actors also offers cre- ative workshops and you can dine in the local inn - U loupežníka Bambitky. The grounds are 20 km from Jindřichův Hradec in the village of Kamenice nad Lipou. Open: May - June only on Saturdays 10:00 - 17:00, July - August daily 10:00 - 18:00 September - October, Saturdays 10:00 - 17:00. Admission: full CZK 150, concessions CZK 125 Contact: Fairyland Fábula Masarykova 362, Kamenice nad Lipou tel.: + 420 608 601 500 e-mail: info@skritek-fabula.cz www.pohadkova-rise.cz OUR TIP FROM THE SURROUNDINGS ..... Červená Lhota Chateau The Červená Lhota Chateau is located in Southern Bohemia, about 20 km from Jindřichův Hradec and stands in the middle of a pond on a hard, rocky island. The chateau is ac- cessed via a stone bridge linking the dam with the island. The chateau gained its present form in 1530. During the tour you will see 16 rooms representing the life of the nobility in the 19th century and the start of the 20th century. Open: Apr - Oct only on weekends, May – September daily except Mondays 9:30-17:00 Admission: full CZK 100, concessions CZK 60 Contact: Červená Lhota 1, Kardašova Řečice tel.: + 420 384 384 228 e-mail: cervenalhota@npu.cz www.zamek-cervenalhota.eu OUR TIPS......................... Discgolf Jindřichův Hradec has a new opportunity for a rather unusual way to spend your free time – a discgolf course in the town centre. Discgolf is one of the most widespread sports with a flying disc and is derived from normal golf. Anyone can play Discgolf and it is an ideal sports activity for the whole family. You can learn to throw the disc in a few minutes, no matter what your age or level of fitness–allyouneedisagoodmoodandadesire to play. This intriguing game is both easy to play and fun at the same time. Further information about the game and discs for sale and/or rent can be obtained from the Information Centre in Panská Street. Come and play, you will love it. TRIPS JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia VÝLETY Praktický průvodce Prahou, českými a moravskými městy JINDŘICHŮV HRADEC You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 74 LITOMYŠL A settlement grew in what is now Litomyšl along with the growing importance of the trade routes. An important milestone in the development of the town was the arrival of the Premonstratensians in the 12th century who founded a monastery where the cha- teau now stands. But the unsettled times of the religious wars in the 15th century took its toll. After the order departed, the monastery was converted into a mansion. Today it is the most important Renaissance monument in the country and the town itself is popular with tourists, who come here in their thousands every year. You can start your tour of the town on Smetanovo náměstí, where you’ll find plenty of shops, bakeries or cafes in the surrounding arcades. Crossing the neighbouring Toulovcovo Square you’ll reach the streets of the historic centre, where you will find cafes, restaurants, gift shops or galler- ies. The recent development of modern architecture and the infrastructure of various services provides an excellent background for spending active leisure time. MONUMENTS .................. The Chateau Grounds - UNESCO Site Litomyšl Chateau, a national cultural monu- ment as well as a UNESCO monument, is the town’s dominant feature and one of the most important Renaissance monuments in the country. The history of the mount’s settle- ment and later the chateau has been inherently linked with that of the town throughout its ex- istence. The chateau was built during the era of Vratislav of Pernštejn in the years 1568 - 1581. Today the chateau is one of the tourist magnets attracting thousands of tourists to Litomyšl ev- ery year. There are several different tours of the chateau awaiting. The basic tour takes in the chateau’s baroque theatre and the ceremonial halls. Several times a day admirers of chateaus and castles can walk the extended chateau tour, which takes in the more intimate accommoda- tion and guest rooms and the castle chapel. TRIPS LITOMYŠL

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 75 Furthermore, it is possible to see an exhibition of historical pianos and theatre scenes from the end of the 18th century, which have been pre- served from the chateau’s unique theatre. The chateau also has a permanent exhibition of sculptures by Olbram Zoubek in the chateau’s cellars. Open: Apr, Sat, Sun 10:00-16:00, May-Sep, Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00, Oct Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00 Admission: adults from CZK 120, children from CZK 70 Contact: Státní zámek Litomyš Jiráskova 93, Litomyšl www.zamek-litomysl.cz Josef Váchal Museum In the 1920’s the colourful and exceptional graphic designer, writer and artist Josef Váchal gave Josef Portmon’s house a truly special in- terior. Here you will see unique painted murals, carved furniture and furnishings. Open: May-Sept Tue-Sun 9:00 - 17:00, Apr & Oct, Sat, Sun 9:00 - 17:00 Admission: adults CZK 60, children CZK 40 Contact: Portmoneum – Josef Váchal Museum ul. T. Novákové 75, Litomyšl www.paseka.cz Birth place of Bedřich Smetana In the ground-floor rooms of the former cha- teau brewery, where Bedřich Smetana was born in 1824, there is an exhibition of the composer’s childhood in Litomyšl. It endeavours to bring the atmosphere of the Smetana household, their family life and the associated events and how this reflected on Smetana’s work. Open: April, October: Sat, Sun 9:00-17:00, May- September: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00 Admission: adults CZK 40, children CZK 20 Contact: www.rml.cz ACCOMMODATION ................ This much-visited town has plenty of possibilities for accommodation, from hotels to a number of small guest houses. Most are lo- cated right in the centre, a few minutes’ walk from the city’s dominant feature, the chateau and its grounds. Every year, at the turn of June and July when the town organises Smetana’s Litomyšl, a big music festival, interest in accom- modation increases rapidly. Hotel Aplaus **** The Hotel Aplaus is right in the town centre, a short walk from the chateau. While the archi- tecture is a reminder of the five hundred year history of the burgher houses, the modern de- sign of the hotel offers its guests a unique ex- perience and comfort. The interior furnishings reflect the owners’ interest in contemporary art and design. This hotel is the most expensive and most luxurious in Litomyšl. Price for a double room from CZK 2600. LITOMYŠL TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 76 Contact: Hotel APLAUS Šantovo náměstí, 181, Litomyšl tel.: + 420 461 614 900 e-mail: recepce@hotelaplaus.cz www.hotelaplaus.cz Hotel Zlata Hvezda *** On Smetanovo náměstí, right in the town’s centre, stands the Hotel Zlatá Hvězda. This clas- sic hotel offers a lovely view of the centre and the chateau or the peaceful gardens. You can spend time relaxing in the hotel’s sauna or fit- ness centre. Price for a double room from CZK 1400. Contact: Hotel Zlatá Hvězda Smetanovo nám. 84, Litomysl tel.: + 420 461 615 338 e-mail: zlata.hvezda@lit.cz www.zlatahvezda.com Pension Paseka Pension Paseka is located in the historical centre of Litomyšl by Smetanovo náměstí and 200 me- tres from the chateau. It offers apartments with a kitchenette, a library and a bathroom with a showerandtoilet.ThereisfreeWi-Fithroughout the building. Breakfast is served every morning. You will find a variety of restaurants and shops within walking distance of the guest house. Price for a double room from CZK 1200. Contact: Josefa Váchala 127, Litomyšl e-mail: rezervace@pensionpaseka.cz www.pensionpaseka.cz RESTAURANTS, CAFES........ You will find a variety of restaurants and cafes in the town, especially in the historic centre, and around the square. They mostly of- fer Czech dishes for up to CZK 150, such as the restaurants Slunce or U Komínků. At the Veselka restaurant we serve Litomysl beer. Restaurant Bohem ThisluxuriousrestaurantisapartofhotelAplaus. It boasts a stylish interior and a menu that in- cludes meals made using M. D. Rettigová’s recipes, who spent the last years of her life in Litomyšl. Naturally they have international cui- sine, including fish and seafood. You will also find quality wines from both domestic and in- ternational vineyards. Meals range from CZK 180 - 480, beer 0.5 l - CZK 45, wine 0.7 l from CZK 275 Contact: Restaurace Bohem Šantovo náměstí 181, Litomyšl tel.: + 420 461 614 901 www.hotelaplaus.cz U Kolji LITOMYŠL TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 77 This restaurant, located on Mařákovo Street, gives you a taste of Ukrainian specialties such as borscht or blinchiki. These non-traditional dishes, served in a pleasant environment, are complemented by international meat dishes. Meals range from CZK 110 - 220, beer 0.5 l - CZK 25 Contact: Restaurant U Kolji Mařákova 365, Litomyšl www.ukolji.cz Restaurant Malý svět (Reconstruction - re-opened in April 2015) On one of the oldest streets in the town cen- tre, directly under the chateau, lies the Malý svět Restaurant, where, in conjunction with a gallery, you’ll find peace and quiet to enjoy Czech and international cuisine. The menu here is not so extensive, but it is all made from high-quality and fresh ingredients. In the sum- mer months you can take advantage of the rooftop terrace with views of the chateau. Meals range from CZK 160 - 280, beer 0.5 l - CZK 35 Contact: Restaurace Malý svět Mariánská 1097, Litomyšl, www.maly-svet.eu Chocco Caffé The Chocco Caffé is located in the heart of Smetanovo náměstí at number 117, and is lo- cated on the ground floor. It is a space with a hallmark of the past, where you can stop and take it easy over a good quality coffee, chocolate pralines and delicious cakes, all of which are home made. It offers a nice and cosy non-smoking environment with styl- ish furniture and comfortable seating for 25 guests. Open: daily 9:00 - 18:00. Contact: Tradiční výroba pralinek Smetanovo nám.117, LITOMYŠ tel. : + 420 461 311 400 e-mail: info@ceskepralinky.cz www.ceskepralinky.cz NIGHT LIFE......................... This town also has something to offer lov- ers of night life, for example you can visit a night club, which is just 15 minutes from Smetanovo náměstí. Dance Club U Kolji, a modern music club, equipped with air conditioning, karaoke and a good selection of drinks. Open: Wed 19:00 - 02:00, Fri & sat 21:00 - 05:00 Contact: Dance Club U Kolji Mařákova 365, Litomyšl www.clubukolji.cz. TRIPS LITOMYŠL

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 78 LITOMYŠL TRIPS TRANSPORT.................... From Prague to Litomyšl it takes 2 hours by car, from Hradec Králové it takes 1 hour. Litomyšl is not on any major rail line; there- fore most train journeys require a change. It is easy to get to the centre by car and you can park right in the town centre on Smetanovo náměstí. FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN................ The Museum of Houses, Dolls and Toys in Litomyšl The museum is located in one of the townhouses on Jiráskova Street, at number 4, opposite the Chateau Brewery and the former riding school, and is part of the Chateau Hill. The collection has exhibits dating from 1850 to the pres- ent. You can see, for example, historical dolls houses and rooms for dolls, as well as living rooms for princesses and rural people, or an American farm. The exhibition starts with the oldest doll in the regional costume of Litomyšl and ends with Barbie. Open: May-September, 10:00 to 18:00, April and October, 13:00 to 17:00 Admission: adults CZK 100, children CZK 50, families CZK 240 Contact: Jiráskova 4, Litomyšl tel.: + 420 734 802 946 www.muzeum-domecku-panenek.cz OUR TIP FROM THE SURROUNDINGS.... Nové Hrady Chateau In the village of Nové Hrady, which is 15 km from the town of Litomyšl, you can visit the Nové Hrady Chateau, one of the few Rococo monuments in the Czech Republic. The Rococo building, constructed from 1774-1777 by Count Jean-Antoine Harbuval de Chamaré, is in the style of French sum- mer residences, and nick-named the “Czech Versailles”. Besides the beautiful parks and castle interiors it also houses an exhibition of historical furniture from the Baroque pe- riod to Cubism and the first Czech Museum of bicycles, the largest such collection in the Czech Republic. Open: April, October on the weekends, May- September daily from 10:00-16:00 Admission: adults CZK 100, children CZK 70 Contact: www.nove-hrady.cz OUR TIPS......................... If you are planning to visit the town at the end of April, then take part in the Opening of the Litomyšl Spa Season, a spa of the soul. You will become a part of the town’s trans- formation into its glory days of a century ago, where you’ll meet locals in period costume, a parade of classic cars and a series of accom- panying events including music concerts on the square and in the cafés. More information about the opening of the spa season can be found at www.lazneducha.cz.

WC smìr Olomouc, Brno smìr Praha

80 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia BRNO THE SIGHTS................... Tugendhat Villa This Functionalist villa built for the Tugendhats has an original room layout and unique tech- nology and is the work of the architect Ludwig Mies van der Rohe. It was built in the 1930’s and was entered on the UNESCO List of World Cultural and Natural Heritage in 2001. There is a great deal of interest in the tours of the inte- riors making it necessary to make a reserva- tion in advance, the gardens, though, can be visited without a reservation. Brno is a city with a friendly, cosmopolitan atmosphere full of colourful celebrations, a city wrapped in the tendrils of grapevines and ancient winegrowing traditions. It is said that good things come in small packages, which suits Brno to the ground. A fleet- ing tour of the town centre takes a couple of hours, leaving you time to check out the curiosities and exchange a few words with those you will meet on your way. In short it isn’t difficult to fall in love with this city and enjoy it – bitter, sweet and forever. TRIPS BRNO

81 Open: daily except Mondays 10:00-18:00 (reservation necessary) Contact: Vila Tugendhat Černopolní 45, 613 00 Brno +420 515 511 015 info@tugendhat.eu www.tugendhat.eu Špilberk Castle This royal castle dating from the 13th century and reconstructed during the 17th and 18th centuries into a baroque fort, was the most famous prison in the Hapsburg monarchy and called the “gaol of nations”. Nowadays it houses the Brno City Museum with exhibi- tions on the history of the castle and the city and occasional art exhibitions. The casemates are also open to the public – dark rooms in the battlements originally used as a shelter for the soldiers, later as a prison for the most hard- ened criminals. The castle also holds outdoor cultural events. The castle is surrounded by an extensive park with views of the city. Open: casemates, observation tower: summer season (1. 5. – 30. 9.) daily 10:00-18:00; Winter season (1. 10.–30. 4.) Tues - Sun 9:00 - 17:00 Exhibitions: summer season (1. 5.–30. 9.) Tues - Sun 10:00-18:00; winter season (1.10.–30. 4.) Wed - Sun 9:00 - 17:00 Contact: Brno City Museum Špilberk 1, 662 24 Brno +420 542 123 614, +420 542 123 677 muzeum.brno@spilberk.cz www.spilberk.cz www.GOtoBRNO.cz BRNO TRIPS

82 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia Brno Underground The Brno Underground, open in three easily ac- cessible parts, attracts those interested in look- ing under the streets and squares. The largest is the Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market, his- torically the oldest public space in the city, with an interesting guided tour. During the tour you’ll also get to peek in at the Mint Master’s Cellar un- der the Dominican Square and the Ossuary un- der St. James’ Church. This is the largest ossuary in the Czech Republic and the second largest in Europe and has the bones of more than 50 thou- sand deceased. Another highlight is the tour of the modern collectors, i.e. tunnels that are used for the utilities networks. Open: Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market: year round,Tues-Sun9:00-18:00 Ossuary,MintMaster’sCellar:yearround Tues–Sun9:30-18:00 Contact: Labyrinth under the Vegetable Market Zelný trh 21, +420 542 212 892 labyrint@ticbrno.cz Mint Master’s Cellar Dominikánské nám. 1 (entry from Panenská Street) +420 602 128 124 mincmistr@ticbrno.cz Ossuary under St. James’ Church Jakubské nám., +420 515 919 793 kostnice@ticbrno.cz www.ticbrno.cz Tourist information centre Brno Radnická 8 Tel.: + 420 542 427 150 E-mail: info@ticbrno.cz www.GOtoBRNO.cz Tourist information centre – – South Moravia, Radnická 2 Tel.: + 420 542 427 170 E-mail: info@ccrjm.cz www.south-moravia.cz Photo: M. Schmerková, Z. Kolařík, Š. Vrzala, D. Židlický, archive TIC PRAGUE BRNO www.GOtoBRNO.cz BRNO TRIPS

BRNO VÝLETY You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 84 OSTRAVA TRANSPORT ................ There are several ways to get to Ostrava, the most convenient is the Pendolino train or by Leo Expres, the bus connection is also a pleasant one. POINTS OF INTEREST ..... Dolní Vítkovice Ostrava is known as steel city and the steel mills are actually the biggest attractions here and they are definitely worth seeing. The locals also call Dolní Vítkovice the Ostrava Castle. Dolní Vítkovice is a former industrial area comprising of the “Hlubina” mine, coking plants and the blast furnaces at the Vítkovice ironworks. The grounds are a unique industrial monument and an unmistakable symbol of Ostrava and the entire Moravia-Silesia region. Thanks to its uniqueness, it was entered on the European Cultural Heritage list. The city of Ostrava is the third largest city in the Czech Republic and has the third largest population. It has an advantageous strategic position - 10 kilometres south of the border with Poland, 50 miles to the west of the border with Slovakia, 360 km from Prague, 170 km fromBrnoand310kmfromVienna.Fourriversflowthroughthecity-Odra,Ostravice,Opava and Lučina. The first mention of the city is in 1267, the city arose on the Amber Way, which traders had been using since time immemorial as the main road connecting the Baltic and the Mediterranean Sea. The city walls were built in the 2nd half of the 14th century. A break- through in the city’s development came with the discovery of coal in the second half of the 18th century, this later started the development of the ironworks. Now Ostrava has lost the look of a typical industrial city, coal was last mined in 1994. A mining museum was created on the sites of the former mines and a number of closed metallurgical buildings, exceptional architectural gems in Europe, are waiting to be opened to the public. In addition to technical monuments, it offers visitors numerous cultural and historical monuments and other attrac- tions, which allows those arriving a stay full of unforgettable experiences. TRIPS OSTRAVA

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 85 Feel free to don a helmet and let the guide’s exciting commentary take you to the heart of the steel shaft, where you can almost feel the heat used to make molten iron. The last steel to roll out of here was in 1998 when the steel mills closed down. You can climb the stairs to the top of the first furnace at a height of 91 m; from here there are stunning views of the whole of Ostrava. Besides chimneys and steel mills, on a good day, you can see the peaks of the Beskydy Mountains. Right now the city is successfully endeavour- ing to revive the steel mills both culturally and socially. The multifunctional Gong auditorium, where concerts, conferences and corporate events take place, was built on the site of the former gas container. The most famous event, however, is the Colours of Ostrava festival, which takes place every year in the summer and is attended by thousands of music fans. In Dolní Vítkovice there is plenty of fun for chil- dren, so be sure to visit the Technical Museum, with its U6 Small World of Technology where you can spend an entire weekend of fun with the kids and the interactive exhibits. Důl Michal The Důl Michal National Cultural Monument presents the working day of a miner. In September this year the Science and Technology Centre opened in Ostrava. Its aim is to inform visitors about interesting discoveries in science and technology in a playful manner. In an area of 14,000 square meters it offers its visi- tors four worlds: the Children’s World, the World ofScienceandDiscovery,theWorldofCivilisation and the World of Nature. Small and large visitors alike can play, discover and take it easy. It also has a 3D cinema and a Science Theatre. Landek Park The largest mining museum in the Czech Republic offers discovery, relaxation and fun. Each exhibit maps out the development of coal mining in the Ostrava and Karvina region, as well as present- ing the history of mine rescue. Part of the tour is also a system of under- ground galleries, where you descend in the original mining cages equipped with an audioisual simulator of a real descent into the pit. Don’t miss the ride in an original mine train. If you’ve had enough of smelters and technol- ogy, then head for the city centre, which is sur- prisingly large, though empty, however, if you enjoy skating, you have plenty of space to work up a sweat. Unfortunately, the construction of a large shopping centre led to the depopula- tion of the original historic centre, with people doing their shopping in the huge malls. The observation tower at the New City Hall, however, is one of the city’s interesting attrac- TRIPS OSTRAVA The observation tower at the New City Hall

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 86 tions. The locals never cease to be amazed by the breath-taking views of the surrounding Beskydy Mountains and nearby Poland. One stop you shouldn’t miss on the square is the wonderful Babička cake shop where you can taste amazing desserts at great prices and excellent coffee or drinks. Even the toilets are luxurious here. ACCOMMODATION........ Apart from the large hotels, such as the 4-star hotel Clarion Congress Hotel Ostrava and the Hotel Park Inn Ostrava, you will find a lot of interesting accommodation options. One of them, for example, is the Ostrava-Zábřeh Chateau which you should definitely pay a visit to. This picturesque chateau, or rather building, offers a cosy and homely atmosphere while maintaining excellent service from its ever smil- ing staff. The rooms are themed and very inter- estingly conceived, for instance, there is Africa, Lady and Magic, each room has its own furnish- ings, sometimes with a fireplace, creating an unforgettable atmosphere. Breakfast is in the small room of the lower res- taurant and the choice is unbelievably wide. What is really impressive is the restaurant with its outdoor terrace and excellent cuisine, serv- ing dishes mostly made from fresh ingredients sourced from local farmers. Another restaurant in the attic offers a beautiful environment, with a wooden Interior and a view of the microbrew- ery’s brew house. This is Zábřeh Chateau’s real pride, so don’t miss a tour of the brewery and a taste of the beer. If you want to relax, then they have just opened their unique beer or wine baths. These baths are for couples, can be combined with mas- sages and also offer snacks and beverages such as beer or wine. Here you can find a reiki master who will heal both your soul and your body. For cheaper accommodation, you can try the Carolina apartments or the Aida Guesthouse. DINING........................... Don’t expect a large selection of res- taurants, but if you come across the Comodor Mexicana, near the square, then taste authentic Mexican cuisine with an excellent selection of OSTRAVA TRIPS Babička cake shop Clarion Congress Hotel Chateau Ostrava-Zábřeh

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 87 wines. Your taste buds certainly won’t be dis- sappointed by the great selection of steaks and meals. Another interesting restaurant is Harenda u Barborky (a themed restaurant in the Mining Museum) or the U Kocoura restaurant and pub (a stylish setting with a wide range of spe- cialties to go with beer and wine). WHAT TO VISIT ................. In Ostrava there is no lack of muse- ums,youcanchoosefromtheOstravaLife,Fire Brigade and Brewery. There are also countless galleries in Ostrava, we can recommend Dům umění or the Mill (Mlejn) Gallery. It is definitely worth mentioning the well-known Janáček Conservatory, which offers studies in fourdisciplines–singing,dancing,acting,andin- strumental music, and can boast the most mod- ern organ in Central Europe. ENTERTAINMENT................. As soon as someone mentions Ostrava, then everyone recalls Stodolní Street, this experience should not be missed, but be warned, it’s best to go here on a week- end, when it’s really lively, during the week the street is rather empty and gloomy. Over sixty bars, restaurants and entertainment venues offer visitors everything there is to be enjoyed. On Stodolni Street you will find clubs with jazz and alternative music, dance halls, karaoke, casinos, bowling, billiards or just a quiet sit down. TRIPS OSTRAVA Comodor Mexicana Restaurants Harenda u Barborky Dům umění Janáček Conservatory Stodolní Street

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 88 Sports fans must check out the ČEZ arena, which is used for large sporting events, whether that be hockey or the Davis or the Fed Cup. Ostrava can also boast a large num- ber of cycling trails and for golf lovers there is the Kravaře Chateau golf resort. FOR KIDS ........................ If you have done the technology with the children, then head for Ostrava ZOO or the Fairy-tale Cellar of Ghosts. Scale models of real buildings can be found at Miniuni. The Miniuni is an interesting attrac- tion for children and adults alike. In an area of 1.5 ha, it is possible to see more than 30 mod- els of important buildings from European cit- ies at a scale of 1:25, such as London’s Big Ben, the Old Town Hall, the Brandenburg Gate, one of Berlin’s greatest sights, or a 12 metre high Eiffel Tower. The Jungle Centre also offers opportunities for active enjoyment with the kids all of which are indoor. Children play in themed games rooms with names such as the Den, Meadow, Pérák’s Paradise or the Monkey House. OUR TIP........................ The largest Czech natural swimming pool, found in Ostrava-Poruba, is also one of the largest in Central Europe and offers 41,200 m2 of water with giant 55-metre slides and a plume; it also has 70,000 m2 of greenery, con- taining a crazy golf course, tennis, streetball, volleyball, bowling, rental of sports equipment and lots of snack bars. T TRIPS OSTRAVA ČEZ arena The Kravaře Chateau golf resort Zoo Ostrava Fairy-tale Cellar of Ghosts Miniuni

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 89 TRIPS In the 13th century the village of Heinrichsdorf was founded on an important trade route from Bohemia to Poland at the site of a thousand year old Celtic fort. In the 15th century a Gothic moated stronghold was built and around 1600 Ctibor Syrakovský from Pěrkov rebuilt it into a Renaissance chateau. Upuntilthemid-17thcentury,whenZábřehreturned to the hands of the Church, it was owned by 20 noble families. The chateau then underwent a Baroque conversion into the form we now know today. The chateau has retained its original Renaissance arches on the front wings of the ground floor, (now the cha- teau’s armorial hall, reception and restaurant), as well as the Renaissance and Baroque wooden beam ceilings on the chateau’s first floor (now historical hotel rooms). Everything else was, unfortunately, destroyed. From 2004-2007 the chateau was recon- structed and in September 2007 it returned as a historic designer hotel, brewery (restored after 400 years), restaurant and beer & wine baths. Old places have their own life and we merely pass through... Zábřeh Chateau FOR A ROMANTIC CHATEAU WEEKEND • dinner for two in the chateau restaurant (choose from the menu) • overnight stay in one of the historical suites at Zábřeh Chateau • breakfast price “African Night” ... Africa Suite CZK 3990 “Magical Night” ... historical room CZK 3490 “Chateau Night” ... attic room CZK 2990 The offer is valid from Friday to Sunday, The price is for 1 night for 2 persons, CCTV monitored hotel car park free of charge. Choose from the menu when booking. Please book early, at least a week in advance. Tel.: +420 777 808 299 www.zamek-zabreh.cz % % % % % % % %

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 90 RADEGAST BREWERY We invite you to the Nošovice brewery, which bears the name of the old Slavic god Radegast. On the tour you’ll get to know the history of the brewery and the brewing process for the distinctly bitter Radegast. Visit the produc- tion sites. See how the brewery produces malt from selected barley from the Haná region. In the brewing house, the heart of the brewery, you will see the brewery trout making sure the water is of excellent quality. In a special room reminiscent of a wooden barrel you can peep into the lagering cellar. Or take a look at how the beer is bottled in the fully automated bot- tling line. The tour is rounded off with a tasting of Radegast beer, bitterness as it should be. In addition to the experience of the Radegast brewery tour you can delight your loved ones with an original gift from the Radegast Shop. Radegast Brewery, Nošovice Tel.: +420 558 602 566 e-mail: exkurze@radegast.cz www.pivovar.radegast.cz OSTRAVA TRIPS

You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 92 MONUMENTS .................. The Archbishop’s Chateau in Kroměříž is one of the leading cultural and historical monuments in Moravia, it is the property of the Olomouc bishops, and served as their summer residence. The Kroměříž Chateau is a remarkable complex of historical halls, libraries, a unique music archive and a picture gallery, which is one of the most valuable collections of its kind in the world. The chateau is located in the lower corner of Velké náměstí and you can see for miles from here thanks mainly to the high clock tower. The cash Due to its extraordinary history associated with education and art (since the 17th century the city was the cultural centre of the Haná region and the whole of Central Moravia) Kroměříž has been called the Athens of Haná. In 1998 the Archbishop’s Chateau, along with the Květná and Podzamecká Gardens, were entered on the UNESCO list of world cultural and natural heritage. It was Bishop Karel II from Liechtenstein who can take the credit for this when he raised the town from the rub- ble to one of captivating beauty in the 17th century! In Kroměříž the Velké náměstí (Large Square) is one of the busiest places, where you will find countless cafes, pubs, hotels and restaurants and in the adjacent pedestrian zones you will be tempted to purchase refreshments or souvenirs . In the upper corner of the Velké náměstí, next to the town hall, you will find the information centre where you can get information about accommodation, cultural events as well as a map of the town for free. Your trip around the town is aided by excellent tourist signs, which are built into the paving, so you really can’t get lost here. You can’t help but enjoy this town. KROMĚŘÍŽ KROMĚRÍŽ TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 93 desk is on the right as you pass through the courtyard and you can choose from several dif- ferent tour routes. These take between 30 to 90 minutes and most of them are with a guide. On the opposite side of the cash desk, across the courtyard, there is a toilet. It is possible to visit the chateau’s tower and after overcoming more than 200 steps to a height of 40 metres you will have a unique view of the city and its surroundings. Open:April-October,dailyexceptMondays Full entrance from CZK 140, there are also family, se- niorandstudentdiscounts Contact: www.zamek-kromeriz.cz The Podzámecká Garden ties in with the Archbishop’s Chateau. It has several entrances around the town, only two of which are from the chateau. After the garden was created in 1509 it was used for growing fruit and vegeta- bles and in the 17th century it was converted into the Baroque style. Today it is seen as a place for walks and relaxation, where you will find two summer cafes. When you explore this garden you can gaze down the Pompeii and Colloredo Colonnades, take in the Fishing Pavilion and you definitely won’t miss the loud calls of the peacocks, who walk freely among the visitors. The garden also has a zoo corner with monkeys and aviaries with birds of prey and songbirds. Free entry, open, depending on the season, from 6:30/7:00 to 16:00-20:00, no dogs or bikes. The Květná (Flower) Garden was built 1665-1675. It is partly reminis- cent of an Italian Renaissance garden, on the other hand it has elements of a French Classicist Baroque garden (Versailles). The Flower Garden is a 15-minute walk from the Velké náměstí, and is easy to get to along a signed path. After arriv- ing in the garden you will find yourself in a small courtyard, which is bordered on two sides by historical greenhouses - Palm and Cold - in the high season they transform into meeting places forculturalandsocialevents.Alabyrinthofgreen walls opens before you with a breath-taking view of the 244 metre- long colonnade and rotunda. It is known for its unique decora- tion, and being the site of a Foucault’s pendulum, which demonstrates the Earth’s rotation around its axis. Guided tours take place here regularly. Don’t forget to ascend the winding stairs to the colonnade’s roof, from here you will see the true beauty of the gardens, which recently went through an extensive over- haul.Thereisacarparknexttothegardens;entry is from the street Gen. Svobody. Admission CZK 70, open, depending on the season, from8:00to18:00-19:00,nodogsallowed. Contact:www.zamek-kromeriz.cz/zahrady/ kvetna-zahrada. The Karel Kryl exhibition Karel Kryl was a famous Kroměříž native and has become the inspiration for a new experiential exhibition that emphasises Kryl’s distinctive and unmistakable work full of joy, wit and poetics, but at the same time containing defiance, sad- ness, sarcasm and later disillusion with the po- litical developments in the Czech Republic. The diverse works of this poet with a guitar are full of emotion just like this exhibition in Kroměříž. Admission CZK 40, open all year round, every day exceptonMondays:9:00-12:00,13:00-17:00 Contact:www.expozicekryl.cz TRIPS KROMĚRÍŽ

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 94 TRIPS ACCOMMODATION........ Kroměřížoffersaccommodationrang- ing from comfortable four star hotels to simply furnished boarding houses. But you can always look forward to the hospitality of the locals, be- cause they appreciate tourists and are happy to advise on what is currently going on in the town. Hotel La Fresca * * * * This luxurious hotel standing on the Velké náměstí, offers a combination of modern com- fort and a romantic-historical atmosphere for the more demanding tourists. Apart from stylish Art Nouveau furniture and original interior decora- tions it has wheelchair access to all rooms, com- fortableergonomicmattressesandaircondition- ing. When booking ask for a room overlooking the square. The hotel also has an excellent restaurant with a terrace onto the square, where they will of- fer various dishes, mainly of meat. Naturally the price of the food is higher, around CZK 300, if you would still like to enjoy the comfortable settings and good quality food, then between 11:00 and 13:00 the lunch menu costs around CZK 110. Price for a twin-bed room CZK 1700, per apartment CZK2300,WiFi Contact:Velkénáměstí109/55,Kroměříž Tel.:+420573335404 email:hotel@lafresca.cz www.lafresca.cz/ Černý Orel Hotel and Guest House The Černý Orel Hotel and Guest House is at the top of Velké náměstí, so everything is just around the corner. The guest house and hotel are lo- cated in the same complex, with slightly differ- ent styles and furnishings. The four star hotel offers very comfortable rooms with a bath and a lift. The guest house is standard three star supe- rior with a higher degree of cosiness, teakwood in the bathrooms, and Venetian plaster, though it does not have a lift. It does, however, have a restaurant and brewery, which we definitely rec- ommend visiting. Price for a double room: hotel CZK 1600 Kč, guest houseCZK1200,WiFi Contact: ČERNÝOREL-PivovarHotelPenzion Velkénáměstí24,Kroměříž Tel.:+420573332769 e-mail:info@cerny-orel.eu www.cerny-orel.eu Penzion Kromeriz This guesthouse is located in the historical centre of Kroměříž, 3 min walk from the Velké náměstí. It doesn’t stick out, but it’s worth look- ing for it. In the guest house you will meet with very friendly and helpful staff who are glad to help you with anything. Part of the guest house is a lockable car park for cars and bicycles. All the rooms at Penzion Kroměříž have a TV, refrig- erator and an en suite bathroom with shower. Some rooms also have a well-equipped kitch- enette. For the money it is a very good choice. The pension does not have a permanent recep- tion, so you need to check in by midnight. WiFi and cot for children free, dogs and cats for CZK 100 Priceforadoubleroom: CZK800-900 Contact:Moravcova253,Kroměříž tel.:+420723659129 e-mail: info@kromeriz-penzion.cz www.kromeriz-penzion.cz. RESTAURANTS, CAFES The Černý Orel Restaurant and Brewery It will enamour all lovers of good beer and food. Every month they brew four new kinds of beer. You can enjoy local specialities that are often made from beer and malt. The interior is made KROMĚRÍŽ

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 95 all the more pleasant by the presence of the brewing vats. Moreover the staff are very pleas- ant and friendly. This restaurant is very popular, so it fills up very quickly in the evenings. We rec- ommend you make a reservation. It is possible to arrange a tour of the brewery and, with any luck, you can even join up with a tour that is underway. Priceoffood:CZK130-260,beer0.5lCZK30-36 Contact: ČERNÝOREL-PivovarHotelPenzion Velkénáměstí24,Kroměříž, tel.:+420573332765, e-mail:info@cerny-orel.eu www.cerny-orel.eu Scéna Restaurant and Cafe This restaurant is about 8 minutes from the lower rightcorneroftheVelkénáměstíinTovačovského Street. Its airy and modern interior is combined with modern cuisine run by experienced chefs. The food here is cooked in the French Sous vide style, i.e. cooked in a vacuum sealed bag at low temperatures. This method is more time de- manding, so you can expect to wait a bit longer. In addition to dishes with meat, they also offer high-quality pasta. Part of the restaurant is a gar- den that is cut off from the street. You don’t have to come here just for good food, in the adjacent bar there are two lanes for bowling. Meals range from CZK 100 - 250, beefsteak CZK 350, beer0.5l-CZK30,wine0.7lfromCZK200 Contact:RestauraceakavárnaScéna Tovačovského2828,Kroměříž tel:+42060441902 e-mail:restauracescena@seznam.cz www.restauraceakavarnascena.cz Radniční sklípek This pleasant restaurant with a garden onto the pedestrian zone in Kovářská Street, close to the upper end of the Velké náměstí, will surprise you with its pleasant interior and good service. The selection of dishes is not so broad, but it is all cooked from fresh and high-quality food. On the menu you will find regional specialties, 4 kinds of beers from local breweries and high-quality Moravian wines. Don’t be afraid to ask for a dish that you can’t find on the menu, if they have the ingredients, they’ll try to cook it for you. Priceoffood:CZK100-230 Contact:Kovářská20,Kroměříž tel.+420608117226 e-mail:info@rs-kromeriz.cz www.radnicnikm.cz Café Bistro Matiné This restaurant’s decor is inspired by typical Parisian bistros. It opens early so you can enjoy morning coffee with freshly baked croissant or try out the breakfast menu. In the cosy bistro, a strictly non-smoking environment, you can have a quick lunch at noon and, in the evening, sit with friends over a good wine and choose from a wide selection of toast, panini, wraps, pasta, salads and original desserts. Contact: CAFEBISTROmatinée Ztracená11,Kroměříž e-mail:zahornacka@matine.cz tel.: +420573330774 www.matine.cz KROMĚRÍŽ TRIPS

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 96 TRIPS KROMĚRÍŽ The city has a large number of restaurants, gar- dens and buffets especially in the pedestrian zone. These offer various burgers, kebabs and pizzas as well as traditional Czech and Moravian dishes. Some of them have 24 hour opening and are here for you in the event that you might get a midnight attack of the munchies. NIGHT LIFE ...................... If you want to have fun until the early hours in one of the music clubs, you’ll find them about 50 m from Velké náměstí in Křižná street. Don’t let the outside put you off, upon enter- ing you’ll find a modern designer club. TA-BU is where local clubbers happily mix with tourists. Entry for the over 18’s. Open:FridayandSaturdayfrom20:00to6:00,wi-fi, Contact: www.tabuclub.cz TRANSPORT .................. Prague to Kroměříž by car takes 2.5 hrs (270 km) along the D1 motorway. The bus, for instance Student Agency, leaves 4 times daily, it takes 4 hours to get to Kroměříž. By car from Brno it is 45 min (65 km) and by bus (Student Agency) 45 min. You can even park on Velké náměstí for 20 CZK/hour, free parking is located on Hanácké náměstí. FOR FAMILIES WITH CHILDREN............. Kroměříž is not just a town brimming with his- tory and art. It also offers lots of holiday fun for families with children. Right in the heart of the city, in the Podzámecká Garden, there are pony rides, a kids train ride and pedal boats for hire for you and your children. Children and adults alike willlovethemirrormaze,whichislocatedrightin the city centre on Velké náměstí. OUR TIP ........................ Kroměříž is one of those towns that is regularlyseenonthesilverscreen.Thispicturesque town will dedicate 2015 to the movies, fairy tales and serials that have been filmed here. On Friday evenings guides from the Order of the Bishops Men, the local historical fencing association, will take you on an entertaining tour of the historic city centre and acquaint you with the films, fairy tales and series that were filmed in Kroměříž. Contact:www.kromeriz.eu RANCH KOSTELANY The Wild West at your fingertips. This Ranch Hotel is not just for horse lovers, it offers a water park, restaurant, a Western town and horse rid- ing. All of this in beautiful surroundings with a rich programme for visitors. Price for a double room CZK 1000, dogs allowed, horse riding - 300 CZK/hour Kostelany lies 12 km from Kroměříž Contact:www.kostelany.cz

You can find the locations on the detailed maps from SHOCART

Our native likes culture and always chooses depending on what’s currently on offer, the mood and the time of year. The offer is di- verse, interesting and variable, so there’s something for everyone. Some like the interesting exhibitions on offer at our castles and cha- teaus. Others can be found in the museums and galleries, where some of the expositions and exhibitions are interactive. More and more are interested in outdoor events, enjoying the re- vival in markets, fairs and open air performances. Mostly during the holidays the towns and cities prepare TOP weeks where you can experience a real whirlwind of concerts, fairs, markets, performances, workshops and festivals. We have prepared several tips for some interesting cultural offers. More options, especially for certain groups of visitors (families with children, the elderly, children, sports enthusiasts) can be found on our website. Other pages that we recommend having a look at if you’re dissatisfied with our offer, are: www.kudyznudy.cz - up-to-date events throughout the Czech Republic arranged by date, place and type. www.czechspecials.cz - all about Czech food, recipes, restaurants, events www.unesco.cz - the current offers from the UNESCO towns and cities www.ceskainspirace.cz – what the 8 towns in the Czech Inspiration association have to offer www.lazne-net.cz - the latest offer from Czech spa facilities and towns www.ceske-lazne.cz - all about Czech spas, healing, wellness and the stays on offer www.pis.cz - the tourist portal for Prague’s latest cultural offer www.czech-tim.cz CULTURE 98 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia CULTURE

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 99 Prague 1, Strahovské nádvoří 1 Tel.: +420 233 107 716, Tel./Fax: +420 233 107 749 www.strahovmonastery.cz Open daily 9:00 – 12:00, 13:00 – 17:00 Private tours tel.: 00420 602 190 297 STRAHOV LIBRARY The Premonstratensian monastery at Strahov A permanent exhibition of the historical bibliotheca (Cabinet of curiosities, Theological Philosophical Hall) CULTURE

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia CULTURE 12. 11. 2014 – 29. 3. 2015 www.muzeumprahy.cz THE CITY OF PRAGUE MUSEUM NA POŘÍČÍ 52, PRAGUE 8 EVERY DAY EXCEPT MONDAY 9:00 - 18:00 EXHIBITION/ WORKS OF THE OFFICIAL ARTISTS TO THE COURT OF RUDOLF II. FROM CZECH PRIVATE COLLECTIONS RUDOLF’S MASTERS 100

101 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia CULTURE www.tafantastika.cz We play daily from 7 p.m. and 9.30 p.m. Poetic black theatre performances On motives from Lewis Caroll’s“Alice in Wonderland” Music by Petr Hapka and scenes by Emma Srncová. This non-verbal production uses the classical techniques of black theatre, laterna magika, film projections and unique technical tricks. Over 6 000 runs in the Czech Republic and in 300 countries worldwide! CASH DESK open daily from 11 a.m. to 9.30 p.m.., Tel.:+420 222 221 366-7 Advance bookings: Monday – Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tel.: +420 222 221 364 (369), e-mail: predprodej@tafantastika.cz NEW: ON-LINE SALES: www.tafantastika.cz

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia CULTURE The Rudolfinum Gallery is housed in the same building as the Czech Philharmonic Orchestra, in the historic neo- Renaissance Rudolfinum in Prague. The Gallery‘s exhibitions focus on contemporary art, with occasional excursions to more distant time periods. Many of the exhibitions are the result of broad international cooperation. The Gallery also has its own publishing activities (catalogues and publications), it organises lec- tures, seminars and numerous other accompa- nying programmes, including music and film shows. The Open Dialogue Club is intended for all fans of the creative arts. There is also a pleasant café and a shop selling publications, catalogues, art magazines and artefacts. RUDOLFINUM GALLERY DURING AN EXHIBITION OPEN DAILY EXCEPT MONDAY 10 am - 6 pm Alšovo nábřeží 12, 110 00 Prague 1 tel.: +420/227 059 309 fax: +420/222 319 293 e-mail: galerie@rudolfinum.org www.galerierudolfinum.cz National Technical Museum Kostelní 42 170 78 Prague 7 www.ntm.cz THE NATIONAL TECHNICAL MUSEUM - in 14 unique exhibitions The National Technical Museum’s first permanent exhibitions were opened in the building at Letná in 1949. Naturally, over the course of time they have diversified and improved. The building, however, became obsolete and no longer served the original purpose for which it was designed and built. Therefore it underwent extensive reconstruction from 2003 to 2012. On 16 February 2011 the National Technical Museum once again opened to the public after an al- most five-year hiatus. To mark the occasion it put on 5 new exhibitions including an upgrading of the Transport exhi- bition. In the following year it opened the Household Appliances exhibition. In June 2012 the museum expanded its offer with the exhibitions Chemistry around Us and Measurement of Time. The 8th of October 2013 saw a landmark in the National Technical Museum’s history. It opened the Metallurgy, Mining, Intercamera and Technology in Toys expositions with the Top Secret display. An attractive part of the Mining exposition are the coal and ore mines. The National Technical Museum currently has 14 permanent exhibitions -Architecture,ConstructionandDesign, Astronomy, Transport, Photographic Studio, Mining, Metallurgy, Chemistry around Us, Intercamera, Measurement of Time, Printing, Household Appliances, Technology in Toys, Television Studio. 102

103 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia CULTURE Entertain yourselves from a different perspective The longest dry Toboggan in the Czech Republic

ACCOMMODATION A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 104 In our towns and cities you can find luxury as well as Spartan accom- modation, depending on your taste or the size of your wallet. It is up to you which variant you choose. As a general rule, the summer season is when accommodation outside of Prague and Brno is at its most occupied. In particular, well-known localities are running at full ca- pacity at this time. South Moravia, South Bohemia, Bohemian Paradise - the sandstone cliffs, the Bohemian Forest, the Beskydy Mountains, the Giant Mountains, these will be packed in the summer! But even in these “top localities” all is not lost. However, you should look for last minute accommodation, or accommodation that is not right in the centre. But, as Americans rightly say - in their opinion Lipno is right next to Prague, so a few miles is “a piece of cake for trav- ellers of your form”. Wellness stays, connected with hiking, cycling and other sporting activities have become extremely popular in the Czech Republic. We have a large number of spa towns, whose natural resources can be very beneficial for your health. The peat, mineral water springs, carbonated water wraps and other natural resources in our spas will keep you in top form. Prague has relatively sufficient accommodation and it is therefore possible to choose an ap- propriate date for a stay according to your desires. It is usually heavily booked during spring, autumn and Christmas and New Year’s Eve. You can choose from small guest houses and hotels to the top names, where you can expect a high level of service. For bigger families, or a group of friends, you can choose to rent an apartment right in the city centre that can accommodate up to 6 people with all the mod cons, and you’ll not only save money, but also have greater comfort. In the evening you can relax in comfort and, compared with hotel accommodation, the prices are very interesting even in the full season. In Brno, which is known for its trade fairs, the availability of accommodation is generally linked to these events. All you have to do is find out when the most popular are taking place, then choose your stay in relation to this. Here are some interesting accommodation options from every town, simply choose one and off you go. ACCOMMODATION

105 HOTEL GALAXIE  HOTEL GALAXIE, Suchdolské náměstí 801, Tel. 246 077 111 info@hotelgalaxie.cz, www.hotelgalaxie.cz • The Hotel is situated in a quiet residential part of Prague 6 - Suchdol, but is just 10 minutes drive from Prague Castle. • The hotel is not only suitable for rest and relaxation (guests can use the hotel‘s sauna and whirl- pool, as well as a masseur), but it also offers countless possibilities for organising your corporate events, conferences, seminars, training courses and dinner parties. • You can find easy parking in the hotel grounds, which offer plenty of parking places (even for buses). • The hotel‘s chef and his experienced team are ready to fulfil all your wishes, be that in the form of a reception, a banquet, a buffet, a menu or à la carte, though always taking your budget into account. ACCOMMODATION A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

106 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia ACCOMMODATION • Reception 24H • FREE City maps • FREE Luggage room • FREE Internet & Wifi • FREE Personal lockers • Buffet-style breakfast • Self-catering kitchen • Cosy stylish lounge • Courtyard balcony • LCD TV & DVDs • Amazing view • Credit cards accepted Facilities: Facilities: Beds from ARPACAY BACKPACKERS hostel is located in the picturesque Nerudova street right below Prague Castle. Sleep in a unique historical building from the 16th century and enjoy an amazing view over the Lesser Town from your bedroom window! Book on-line on www.arpacayhostel.com Hotel & Residence ROYAL STANDARD Hotel & Residence ROYAL STANDARD ***+ Rašínovo nabřeží 38, Praha 2 T: (+420) 224 916 060 M:(+420) 603 596 727 F: (+420) 224 912 040 SKYPE: hotel.standard info@standard.cz Offers cozy accommodation in luxury 2 bedroom apart- ments, which are known for their incredible view of Prague Castle and the Vltava (Moldau) River. Our hotel rooms are tastefully, yet comfortably and functionally fur- nished. The Art Nouveau house is a national monument of culture and was built in 1913 in the historic centre of Prague, on the bank of the Vltava River between the National Theatre and the High Castle (Vysehrad). Both metro and tram stations are located nearby. The location is ideal because of the easy access to the historical monu- ments and cultural buildings in Prague. www.standard.cz

107 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia ACCOMMODATION UNIVERSITY OF ECONOMICS, PRAGUE ACCOMMODATION INFORMATION SERVICE CENTER ACCOMMODATION IS AVAILABLE FROM 250 KČ PER BED PER NIGHT. Hotel*** Jarov I. E Koněvova 93/198 130 00 Praha 3 recepce Tel.: +420 224 092 141 Tichá Miroslava Tel.: +420 224 092 197 E-mail: miroslava.ticha@vse.cz http://hotel.vse.cz http://suz.vse.cz

108 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 108 EATING AND DRINKING We are a nation that likes to eat. It is also becoming quite noticeable, but a lot of our fel- low citizens are proud of their rounded tummies and don’t intend to change a thing. Our instructions on how to find a restaurant or tavern with good cuisine when traveling are very simple. Have a look at how many cars or lorries or vans are parked in front of the establish- ment. Their drivers mostly know the route very well and only stop at places they know and like. Once inside it is clear that not many people generally means that you probably won’t enjoy the meal. If we have any doubts, we also seek out the local Info Centre, where we ask the staff where they go for lunch. This always gives a good overview of where to go for food, naturally according to a certain taste. Recently the Czech Republic has seen an increase in the number of good vegetarian restaurants, and Mexican, Indian, Thai, Chinese, Greek and Japanese cuisine is also gaining popularity. But our Czech cuisine is still our favourite! Here are a few tips to help you choose. Be inspired by our little epicurean hint and enjoy Czech cuisine. It may be a bit heavier, but it’s very tasty. RESTAURANTS • CZECH KITCHEN

109 EATING AND DRINKING VELKÉ POPOVICE BREWERY The brewery in Velké Popovice is not just one of the most famous but also one of the most beau- tiful. The brewery was built in the 1870’s in the picturesquevillageofVelkéPopovice,afewmiles from Prague, by Baron František Ringhoffer, the owner of the local estate, a factory owner and the mayor of Smíchov. On the tour you’ll learn its story, get to know the rich history and present of the brewery and take a peep at the secrets of the brewing process for Velkopopovický Kozel beer. In the lagering cellars you can taste unfiltered draft Velkopopovický Kozel in a unique taproom. Walking along the nearly 40 metre tunnel with the beer pipes brings you to the building with the bottling and keg lines, which is fully auto- mated and has exhibits on the history of pack- aging and the export of Velkopopovický Kozel abroad. And at the end you will get to meet the brewery’s living mascot - Olda the Goat. Ringhofferova 1, Velké Popovice Tel.: +420 323 683 425 www.pivovar.kozel.cz OPEN DAILY THE FIRST NEW TOWN RESTAURANT BREWERY •400 seats in attractive surroundings •We brew our own 11° beer – unfiltered light and dark wheat beers •A tour of the brewery with a professional guide •Excellent cuisine that is both international or typically Czech •Beer evenings accompanied by live music Vodičkova 20, PraGUE 1 Tel.: +420 222 232 448, Mob.: +420 602 459 216 Fax.: +420 222 231 662, sales@npivovar.cz www.npivovar.cz NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR NOVOMĚSTSKÝ PIVOVAR A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

110 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia EATING AND DRINKING

111 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia EATING AND DRINKING café Louvre e s t . 1 9 0 2 CAFÉ LOUVRE Národní tfiída 22, Praha 1, tel. 224 930 949 cafelouvre@cafelouvre.cz, www.cafelouvre.cz Where you have been making history. ~ PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM PIVOVARSKÝ DŮM BREWERY AND RESTAURANT BREWERY AND RESTAURANT Ječná / Lípová 15, 120 44 Praha 2 Ječná / Lípová 15, 120 44 Praha 2 tel.: 296 216 666 tel.: 296 216 666 tel./fax: 224 921 256 tel./fax: 224 921 256 e-mail: pivodum@iol.cz e-mail: pivodum@iol.cz www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum www.gastroinfo.cz/pivodum Open daily: 11.00-23.30 Open daily: 11.00-23.30 • 8 in-house beers • traditional Czech cuisine •

112 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia EATING AND DRINKING Sirloin and Svíčkova sauce You‘ll need: 750 g beef Sirloin (or rear), 50 g fatty bacon sliced thinly, salt, ground pepper, 1 large onion, 150 g carrots, 150 g celeriac, 75 g parsnip, 5 whole pep- percorns, 3 berries of allspice, 3 bay leaves, a pinch of thyme, lemon juice, 150 g butter, 100 g of whole mustard, 2 spoons of fine flour, 250 ml of cream for whipping or milk for dilution, sugar, sliced lemon, servewithcranberrysauceandbreaddumplings. Preparation: Unwrap and clean the meat, place the bacon on it, sprinkle on salt and pepper, cover in chopped onions, the cleaned grated veg- etables, spices, sprinkle on lemon juice and pour the melted butter over it. Leave in the refrigerator for a day. The second day, cover the meat with water so it is completely sub- merged, cover with a lid and steam in the oven until soft. Take the meat out of the broth and remove the spices, especially the bay leaf. Place a casserole dish with the vegetables on the stove and slowly bring to the boil. Add mustard, sprinkle on about 2 spoons of fine flour, sauté. Pour in the whip- ping cream and boil slowly over a low heat stirring from time to time. If the sauce is too thick, dilute it with milk. In the end strain it. Add salt to taste, add lemon juice or sugar as needs be. To highlight the flavour we can add a little caramel to the sauce. (Caramelise a soup spoon of sugar. When the sugar melts and starts to turn brown, add a little water and parboil.) Slice the meat across the grain into individual portions, put it back into the sauce and heat up. Serve with bread dump- lings and cranberry sauce, decorate with a slice of lemon. Patents - potato patties with plum pu- ree and poppy seeds You will need: 800gofpotatoesboiledandpeeledthedaybefore, 300 - 400 g of fine flour, 2 eggs, salt, 100 g of ren- dered pork fat, 200 g of plum puree (use water or rum if you need to dilute), 100 g of ground poppy seed,50goficingsugar,salt,fineflourtolinetray. Preparation: Grate the potatoes, add flour, eggs, salt and form into a dough that is in the shape of a cylinder. Split them into equal parts, hand work them into patties and roll them out into thin pancakes. Dry bake them on a hot Teflon griddle or stove on both sides until they form blisters. Once it is off the pan, brush with hot fat, spread on the plum puree (if it is too thick dilute with warm water or a drop of rum) and sprinkle on the finely ground poppy seeds mixed with icing sugar. Depending on re- gional customs, the pancakes can be rolled up or folded in two to form a pasty. Ferdinand rabbit or hare in wine and onions You will need: 1 whole hare or rabbit without its head, freshly ground pepper, 150 g of whole mus- tard, 4 onions sliced into rings, 3 berries of allspice, 3 juniper berries, 125 g of melted butter, 200 ml of vegetable stock, 250 ml of dry red wine, fresh thyme, serve with potato croquettes or hairy dumplings. PRAHA PRAHA BRNO BRNO LITOMYŠL LITOMYŠL

113 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia EATING AND DRINKING Preparation: Divide the rabbit or hare into six pieces. Add pepper to all sides, brush on a thick layer of mustard and place onto a baking tray. Cover with onion rings, allspice and the juniper. Pour over the melted butter, and leave in a cool place (refrigerator) for at least two days. After two days pour vegetable stock into the pan, bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer for an hour with the lid on. Turn the meat once. Remove the lid and put the pan in a preheated oven at 180 °C and bake for an hour and a half or until the meat is completely soft. Turn the meat whilst cooking and baste with the juices. Take the meat out of the pan and keep warm. Add wine to the juices and onion and boil briefly stirring all the time. Soften with butter, add salt to taste. Put the meat back in the sauce - serve together, garnishing with thyme, ideally with potato croquettes or hairy dumplings. Pork - Dumplings - Cabbage You will need: 1 kg of pork, salt, ground pepper, crushed caraway seed, 3 - 4 cloves of garlic, 2 onions, 1 sour apple, 2 spoons of fat, whole caraway seed, strong stock asneeded For the cabbage: pickled cabbage, whole caraway seed, salt, sugar to taste, 1 onion, lard and 1 spoon ofsemi-coarseflourfortheonionroux. For the potato dumplings: 1 kg of potatoes, salt, 2 eggs, 1 spoon of milk about 400 g of coarse flour, 3 spoonsofcoarsesemolina Preparation: Salt the roast pork, add ground pepper, ground or whole caraway seed, crushed garlic and place into a covered roasting pot to be left in the refrigerator until the next day. Peel the on- ion, cut into half rings, slice the apple and put into the roasting pot in which the lard has been melted and bubbles with the caraway seed. Add the roast pork, cover and bake in the oven. Bake for about 3/4 of an hour, uncover and let it go pink on one side and then the other. Before turning over for the last time add the stock to the juices - the quantity depends on how much gravy we want from the roast. In the meantime, as the meat is cooking, prepare the pickled cabbage by draining, rinsing, cutting and cooking with a little caraway seed and salt. When the cabbage is done, sweeten to taste and thicken with the onion roux. Make the roux by heating the lard in a pan and gently fry the chopped onions until they turn pink, then add the semi-course flour and let it cook for a while. Then add it to the cooked cabbage. Sweeten according to taste. Cook the potatoes in their skins the day before, peel, grate coarsely, add salt and mix with an egg that has been briefly whisked with a spoon of milk. Place the potatoes on a floured board and gradually add flour with semolina until the dough is no longer sticky. Form the dough into cylinders and cook them in salted water for about 20 minutes. Serve the sliced meat, dumplings and cabbage together, pouring the gravy from the meat over the dumplings. ValašskáKyselica You will need: 400 g of pickled cabbage, 1/2 tea- spoon of caraway seed, 300 g of sliced potatoes, bay leaves, 2 ber- ries of allspice, a handful of dried mushrooms • salt, pepper, a handful of herbs (marjoram, thyme, oregano), 30g of butter, 100 g of onions, 100 g of sausage,100gofbacon,aspoonoffineflour,100- 150mlofmilk,150gofsouredcream,2eggs,lemon juicetoseason Preparation: Cook the cabbage and caraway seed in one pot and the potatoes with the bay leaves, all- spice, mushrooms, salt, pepper and herbs in another. When the potatoes are soft, remove the herbs, bay leaves and allspice and add the cabbage to the pot (including the water in which it was boiled). Fry the onions, sausage and bacon in the butter and finally add two spoons of fine flour. Stir milk in to the mixture, pour into the pot with the potatoes and cab- bage and bring to the boil stirring occasionally for about twenty minutes. Finally, add the sour cream, break 2 eggs into the soup, simmer and add lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. KUTNÁ HORA KUTNÁ HORA KROMĚŘÍŽ KROMĚŘÍŽ

A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 114 BARGAINS Who doesn’t like shopping from time to time? Personally I like bringing interesting ceramics, unique cosmetics, nice clothes or maybe some- thing good to eat from abroad. I also go for interesting silver jewellery and local fashion. In Prague, but also in the other towns and cities, you can find inter- esting boutiques with clothes and accessories from designers that you can’t buy anywhere else. These designers hold interesting fashion shows in the spring and autumn. And it is this originality that we’re all looking for. In the smaller shops you can find interesting ceramics, as well as really high quality glass. If you are interested in jewellery, then it’s better to find out in advance which prestigious companies are represented here in the CR. Even on the main drag it may well be that you get charmed by the price and buy poor-quality jewellery of Italian, Turkish or other origin. After a while it breaks and can’t be repaired. We recommend that you visit the jeweller’s Granát who make jewellery exclusively with Czech garnets. Also the jeweller’s Halada has original jewellery, both individual items and in sets, which will definitely enchant your better half. If you want to bring back something for younger children or grandchildren, we produce beautiful wooden toys, dolls and puppets. But don’t buy them in the pedestrian zone, they can be twice as expensive than in the shops near the centre. And one more bit of information: Russian dolls or military hats are not a typical souvenir for Prague or the rest of the Czech Republic. We don’t know why, but they import them from Russia and present them as a Czech souvenir. Obviously there is a surplus of them in Russia. Apart from smaller boutiques or luxury shops, we can also offer large shopping centres, which are good because they have lots of shops under one roof and if you have something in particu- lar in mind, you’ll definitely find it here. The shopping centres also often have various bargain offers, seasonal sales and campaigns where you can buy goods with up to a 70 % discount. The winter sales are also a good time to shop and they often start on New Year, you can expect spring sales in March and from August various shopping centres start their summer sales. For more information see our website, where we keep you up to date with the bargains on offer in the section Events. SHOPPING

SHOPPING 115 Granát, the cooperative of artistic production, Turnov Výšinka 1409, 511 14 Turnov Tel.: +420 481 357 216, E-mail:obchod@granat.cz, www.granat.cz, www.granat-shop.cz ORIGINAL JEWELLERY WITH CZECH GARNET FROM THE GRANÁT TURNOV COOPERATIVE’S ARTISTIC PRODUCTION SHOPPING A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia RETAIL OUTLETS: Prague 1, Dlouhá 28 a 30 Tel.: +420 222 315 612 , E-mail: prodej-dlouha@granat.cz Prague1, Panská 1 Tel.: +420 224 247 463 Prague 1, Pánská pasáž, Na Příkopě 23 Tel.: +420 242 451 068, E-mail: prodej-pasaz@granat.cz Turnov, nám. Českého ráje 4 Tel.: +420 481 323 598 Liberec, Pražská 502/3 Tel.: +420 485 100 583 České Budějovice, Dr. Stejskala 9 Tel.: +420 386 358 068 Český Krumlov, Latrán 53 Tel.: +420 380 711 748

116 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia SHOPPING DinoPark is a unique amusement park with educational elements. On your way to the Mesozoic you will meet dozens of life-size, static and moving models of prehistoric animals that make authentic sounds. The animals are set in the envi- ronment that they inhabited on our planet more than 65 million years ago. In DinoPark Ostrava you can take the DinoExpress, which will take you to places where you dare not walk. In DinoPark Liberec you can experience a real Mesozoic storm including actual rain, or head to DinoPark Prague, located on the roof of the Harfa shopping gallery, where you can watch the Jurassic giants together withaspectacularviewofPrague.Andthat‘snotall,intheseandotherDinoParks in Pilsen, Vyškov and Bratislava you can sit in the 3D cinema screening the film Kronosaurus, there is a palaeontological playground, a DinoGrill with refresh- ments and also the DinoShop for souvenirs. DinoParkissimplyagreattipforadayoutforthewholefamily.

117 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia SHOPPING Podrobnosti, objednávky na WWW.SHOCART.CZ CYKLOATLAS Česko • značené cyklotrasy • doporučené cyklotrasy • klasifikace povrchů • sjízdnost cest

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122 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia ENTERTAINMENT FUN FOR ALL Everyone has a slightly different idea of what constitutes fun. We can have fun at various theme parks, clubs, discos, in dancehalls, karaoke clubs, gambling rooms, night clubs and at an open air party... More or less every visitor here will be seeking a different programme; so we have prepared several tips and offers if you want to spend a really hot and busy night. As a general rule, just like anywhere else in the world, this type of entertainment is in the larger towns, where it’s busy even in the night and there are enough people inter- ested in evening and night programmes. In smaller towns, the promenades and squares empty in the evenings and there is not a lot going on at night. Spa towns are an exception, where we can find beautiful casinos and night clubs. After all, spa visitors undergo various curative procedures during the day and in the evening they need to kick back after caring for their health all day. It generally seems thatdiscosareonthewaneand,incontrast,differenttypesofnightbarsandclubsareinvogue,where it is possible to sit with friends, enjoy pleasant music, eat well and, if the mood takes you, you will even find a dance floor here. Most discos don’t have particularly good food as they are mainly focused on various drinks and the music plays so loud that any tales you may have for your friends are better left for another time, otherwise you will lose your vocal cords. The native hopes you have hot entertain- ment into the wee hours.

123 ENTERTAINMENT A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia

124 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia SERVICES 124 ARRIVALS AND DEPARTURES By Air Most foreign visitors to Prague fly in and out of Václav Havel Airport, which lies 20 km from the city centre. The city centre can be reached: By bus • 119 Prague Airport - Dejvická (Metro line A) - 24 min Buses for the centre start at 4:00 and end around 00:30. The first bus for the airport leaves Dejvická station around 5:00 and the last one runs shortly after midnight. Intervals are 5-10 minutes on weekdays, a little longer on weekends. • 100 Airport Prague - Zličín (Metro line B) -18 min Runs every 15 – 30 mins. • 179 PragueAirport-NovéButovice(Metroline B) - 45 min • 510 (night line) Prague Airport - centre - 40 min. This night bus starts every day just before mid- night, there is a bus every 30 mins and the last bus runs just before 4:00, when the 119 bus starts. • Airport Express - Prague Airport - Main Station (Metro line C) - 35 min A special bus going to Main Station (Hlavní nádraží) – Masaryk’s Station (Masarykovo nádraží) – Náměstí Republiky – Dejvická – the airport and back. This is not part of public trans- port and the fee is CZK 60. Tickets can only be purchased from the driver. It runs from 5:30 to 22:30 every 30 minutes. Tickets for the 119, 100, 179 and 510 buses can be bought at the public transport counters in the arrivals hall of Terminal 1 and Terminal 2, (7:00 – 21:00), or from the machines at the stops or from the driver. The price for a 90 minute ticket for all transport means is CZK 32 and CZK 40 when bought from the driver. More information and exact times can be found at www.dpp.cz; (in English) Taxi There are two companies going from Prague Airport to the city centre, they both have taxi ranks directly in front of the arrivals hall. 1.1.1. Radiocab and AAA radiotaxi. They provide transport in both cars or in minibuses for up to 8 persons. Both companies have information stands in the arrivals hall, it is possible to borrow a child seat from 1.1.1. Radiocab. The maximum price per km is CZK 28 and the starting rate is CZK 40. A journey to the city centre is around CZK 500 - 600. By Train Long-distance trains stop at the Main Station (Hlavní nádraží), which is located in the city cen- tre, right on Metro line C. In the station hall there is an information stand about public transport in Prague, here you can get maps showing the Metro, tram and bus stops. There are also ticket machines for public transport tickets. Prague – Travel

125 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia 125 By Car When visiting the city by car it is necessary to bear in mind the difficulties with parking in the centre. Many of the hotels do not have suffi- cient capacity for parking and we recommend that you always check with the hotel about parking, they often provide places in multi-sto- rey car parks at discounted rates. The city centre has paid parking and multi-sto- rey car parks. The main ones, and the largest, are listed here: The Main Station (Wilsonova Street), Florenc (Na Florenci street), Garáže Dejvice (Technická street 6), Václavské garáže (Václavská 18), Parking Národní divadlo (Ostrovní 1), Parking Kotva (ul. Králodvorská), Palladium, (Revoluční), Veřejné garáže (public garages) Slovan (U Divadla street) the price for parking is usually around 40-60 CZK/per hour. All-day parking is CZK 400 - 900. There is very limited parking directly on the street, it is usu- ally only for local residents and there are not enough places. Parking is much easier outside the centre. More about parking and prices at: www.bez- pecneparkovani.cz You can also use park and ride during a visit to Prague, these are mostly on the outskirts of Prague at Metro stops or where there is a greater concentration of bus lines. They open from 4:00 until 1:00. The price for parking for the entire period is CZK 20 + the public trans- port ticket. A fine of CZK 100 is charged for leaving a car overnight. At up to CZK 150 per day it is the cheapest parking at a guarded car park. More information and the number of free park- ing spaces can be found at www.dpp.cz/par- koviste TRAVELLING AROUND THE CITY Public transport Prague has a very good public transport net- work. It consists of three metro lines, a dense network of tram transport and outside of the centre there is a comprehensive bus system. Metro The Metro has three lines marked with letters and colour coded: A - green line (Depo Hostivař -Dejvická) B - yellow line (Černý Most - Zličín) C - red line (Letňany - Háje) Interchange stations: Muzeum (lines A and C), Můstek (lines A and B), Florenc (lines B and C), all the interchange sta- tions are in the city centre. The Metro is open daily from 5:00 to 00:00 hours. On a weekday during peak hours the trains run about every 2-3 minutes, during off-peak hours 4-10 minutes. Trams The daily lines nos. 1 - 36 - these run from 4:30 to 0:15, Friday and Saturday from 4:30 to 1:30 - the intervals on each route are usually be- tween 8 to 15 minutes, intervals on the busi- est lines (Nos. 9, 17 and 22) are half that. night lines nos. 51 - 59 - they have 30-minute intervals, the central interchange station for the night lines is Lazarská SERVICES

126 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia SERVICES Bus day:4:30to0:15,FridayandSaturdayfrom4:30 to 1:30 night: from 0:30 to 4:30, Friday and Saturday from 1:30 to 4:30 Note: Night buses may not always stop at the same places as, for instance, tram stops, even if they have the same name. They may be up to 15 metresfurtheraway.Someofthestopsonlywork during the night, for example the stop Muzeum, so it is easy to overlook them during the day. The Funicular The funicular connects the stop Újezd (lower station) to the stop Petřín. It is primarily used to visit the Petřín Observation Tower and the sur- rounding orchards and parks, or the Strahov Monastery. It runs all-year-round, at intervals of every 10 - 15 minutes. The normal public transport fare is valid. Public transport ticket sales Ticket machines are installed at all the Metro stations and at certain surface transport stops. Tickets can also be purchased at newsagents, newsstands and in the information centres of Prague Public Transport. Tickets can also be purchased by SMS (only if you have a Czech mobile operator), by send- ing a SMS to the number 902 06, with the text message: DPT32 (90 min for CZK 32), DPT24 (30 min for CZK 24), DPT110 (24 hours for CZK 110), DPT310 (72 hours for CZK 310) Fares The basic transfer ticket for all transport means (90 minutes) is CZK 32, a short-term non-trans- fer ticket (30 minutes) is CZK 24 seniors 65 - 70 years - basic CZK 16, short-term CZK 12, children 10 - 15 years - basic CZK 16, short-term CZK 12 ticket for 24 hours CZK 110, children 10 - 15 years CZK 55, for 72 hours (3 days) CZK 310 The ticket is valid from the time it is stamped. The penalty for travelling without a ticket is an on-the-spot fine of CZK 800 Taxi Taxis in Prague don’t have the best reputation and inordertocircumventamazementatthefarebeing asked it is best to follow a few simple rules. Order a taxi at the taxi ranks, preferably those with yellow signs with the words TAXI and an orange hand with a thumbs up with the words FAIR PLACE, or order through telephone dispatching, but always ask for the price in advance. Hailing a taxi on the street is not recommended in the city centre. The price for a TAXI is regulated in Prague and it is up to a maximum of CZK 28 per kilometre and CZK 40 for the starting rate. You can, for instance, use the following taxi com- panies AAA radiotaxi, tel: 140 14, 222 333 222, www. aaataxi.cz / City taxi, tel: 257 257 257, www.city- taxi.cz Halotaxi, tel: 244 114 411, www.halotaxi.cz / Profesional taxi, tel: 140 15, 844 700 800 www. profitaxi.cz If you need someone to drive you and your car back home, you can use the services of Blue Angel (Modrý anděl), tel: 737 222 333 www.mo- dryandel.cz In the evening, you may encounter other taxis that charge a price according to the zone, so, for example, if you want to travel around the cen- tre of Prague 1, the journey will cost CZK 100. STREET CARS PRAHA offer such a service, tel: 774 404 440, www.streetcarspraha.cz and they run from 21:00 to 6:00

127 A practical guide to Prague and the towns and cities of Bohemia and Moravia SERVICES FOREIGN EXCHANGE OFFICES Foreign exchange offices and banks If you need to exchange money, you can do so at any bank, exchange office or hotel reception. Private exchange offices offer the best rates. If you’re going to exchange money, you should be particularly cautious. Carefully study the ex- change rates and walk around several exchange offices in the vicinity. It may well be that the rates will be very different. In Prague there are about 800 exchange offices, with their greatest density naturally being in the centre. To prevent prob- lems or misunderstandings keep to this advice: Takecarefulnoteoftheexchangerates.Themost commonproblemisthatsomeforeignexchange officestemptyouwithanofferthatatfirstglance looks a bargain, but in fact the exchange rate of- fered is only if you change a large sum, e.g. 1000 euros. You will often learn of this ‘detail’ only by reading the bottom of the exchange rate board. Find out about the fee for exchanging money, most offices advertise a 0 % fee, but some of them may neglect to tell you that it concerns the foreign-exchange and not cash. Always ask them to write out the amount you will receive (on a calculator, paper). If the ex- change office employee isn’t willing to do so, go somewhere else. You should always be cautious and don’t rely on word of mouth alone. An important rule for a successful exchange is not to hand over the money until they’ve told you all the information you need and clearly state the rate and fees. This is the exchange office’s duty. Andsomeadvicetoconcludewith:Neverbuy money from people on the street!

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