buyer-aw2017-18-eng
Buyer-aw2017-18-eng
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A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 017-18 : s t r a t e g i e s , t r e n d s , c o l l e c t i o n s , d e s i g n e r s
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/SEBASTIAN JONDEAU
Personal Assistent to Karl Lagerfeld
photographed by Karl Lagerfeld
SHOWROOM MOSCOW
Mobil: +79645080046
eMail: svetlana.novikova@karl-lagerfeld.de
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CONTENTS
80
14 FASHION NEWS
The latest from the fashion industry
20 ARMAND HADIDA
The legendary French buyer shares his
thoughts on the future of fashion retail
26 LILY-ROSE DEPP
Passionate about cinema and Chanel
DESIGNERS
32 DELPOZO
Josep Font on striking the perfect
balance between tradition
and innovation
36 WOMENSWEAR TRENDS
Checks and padded coats for
all occasions
38 ERDEM
Erdem Moralioglu on strong women
and future plans
42 WORN
A young Swiss brand and its timeless
bags
48 DETAILS
The newest accessories for an
on-point look
50 SEAMORE
The label that made versatility
its trademark feature
52 MADE IN GEORGIA
Three promising designers from
the country that gave us Demna
Gvasalia
58 YOUNG TALENTS
Three emerging designers on their
way to the top
68 MENSWEAR TRENDS
For everyone from free-spirited artists
to no-nonsense businessmen
72 TOMBOLINI
Menswear classics with a fresh twist
80 BUYER’S WORD
Buyers on their best-selling clothes
and their favourite autumn 2017
collections
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114
STRATEGIES
88 THE MIDDLE EAST
Etoile Group’s fashion empire
90 SHOPPING LIVE
The Grayson Company advises on
using digital technologies in the brick-
and-mortar world
92 ECOMMERCE
Kick Pleat on the importance of
being first
96 THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION
New opportunities for Russian
boutiques
98 LIFESTYLE STORE
The Dreslyn online specialty store:
horoscope included
102 LET THERE BE LIGHT
NLT on how to light the way for your
store’s success
104 SHOWROOMS
Major European showrooms and
the secrets of their success
EVENTS
114 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
In the eco mood: reports from
Scandinavia’s leading fashion week
116 FASHION WEEKS
Reviews and dates of the main fashion
events
118 SHOWS
A new generation of designers
conquers the catwalks
122 EXHIBITIONS
Your complete guide to this spring’s
exhibitions dates
128 TRANOI
Top tips for buyers on one of the
biggest fashion trade shows
130 PITTI UOMO
Highlights of the 91st edition
132 CAPSULE
Six trade shows on both sides
of the Atlantic
134 THE BEST LUXURY STORES
The awards ceremony report
CONTENTS
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Editor in chief
Marina Bugranova
Direttore responsabile
Michela Zio
Executive editor
Galia Milovzorova
Fashion editor
Anastasia Khvatova
Art director
Lior Susana
Graphic designer
Daria Elagina
Copy editors
Jen Rouse
Laura Hayward
Maya Svetlova
Translators
Anastasia Statueva
Andrey Shumilov
Contributors
Alisa Nesterova
Marta Topolskaya
Tatiana Rosenstein
Natalia Melyukh
CONTACTS
For advertising inquiries
Commercial director
Asya Tatevosyan
asya@buyer.world
For editorial and other inquiries
Administrative director
Maria Sakharchuk
maria@buyer.world
Publishing house
Alate Media s.r.l.
P.Iva 08307120967
Via Mauro Macchi, 65, 20124 Milan
www.buyer.world
ARMAND HADIDA
A u t u m n / W i n t e r 2 017-18 : s t r a t e g i e s , t r e n d s , c o l l e c t i o n s , d e s i g n e r s
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BUYER
A/W 2017-18
№ 3 February 2017
Armand Hadida
Photo Lior Susana
Photo assistant Dan Spigelman, Misato Matsuo
Registration № 249, 19.07.13, tribunal of Milan
Print Radin print d.o.o.
Gospodarska 9, HR
10431 Sveta Nadelja
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M.Bugranova
Some of the most bold and memorable companies are the ones
that reflect the vision and individuality of their creators. Preparing
this issue once again reminded me of this simple truth, seeing
charismatic people who successfully express themselves and their
unique personalities in their work. The buyers sharing their
passion for their jobs in this issue are Armand Hadida, founder of
LECLAIREUR and art-director of Tranoi, Ingie Chalhoub, who creat-
ed the fashion empire Etoile in the Middle East and Wendi Koletar
Martin, founder of American online store Kick Pleat.
For this issue we’ve continued selecting promising designers from
all over the world, starting with young designers from Georgia and
travelling through to talented producers of accessories from Spain
to Korea. Delpozo and Erdem, who’ve already achieved interna-
tional success, tell us about their unique approaches to creating
collections and the models that brought their brands to where
they are.
The companies created by this issue’s protagonists are different
from the majority. They don’t fit everyone, aiming instead towards
the like-minded individuals who share their taste and interests. To
find and realise your vision, and to artfully place it in the market
are the two key aspects of building an amazing business. On these
pages we’ve collected ideas that balance between proven and
tested knowledge, and creativity — the reason why all of us chose
to work in fashion.
CREATED
WITH SOUL
Marina Bugranova
Buyer and editor in chief
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The executives of Versace, the Italian
luxury brand, have decided to hold
fewer fashion shows per year and to
discontinue the Atelier Versace show,
which takes place during the Haute
Couture Week in Paris. According to
their chief executive officer, Jonathan
Akeroyd, the discontinuation of the
couture program has nothing to
do with finances, but is instead a
response to the stress experienced by
the Versace design team in having to
arrange eight shows a year. Only six
shows are left now, and the catwalk
will be replaced by the red carpet
show, where Atelier Versace outfits
have long been immensely successful.
New age for Chloé
Chloé, the Paris fashion house so beloved by bohemian fashion lovers, also has
some changes coming. As the Englishwoman Clare Waight Keller decided not
to renew her contract for personal reasons, the autumn collection featured in
Paris this March will be her final one as creative director of the brand. However,
the internet is already abuzz with rumours of her possible successor. Business of
Fashion, a resource of authority, has their money on Natacha Ramsay-Levi, Nico-
las Ghesquière’s right hand, who has worked with him in Balenciaga and in Louis
Vuitton. Chloé has not officially confirmed this yet.
FASHION NEWS
No to couture
Reed Krakoff, the designer best known
for working as creative director for
Coach, joined the Tiffany & Co. team
on February 1. Together with its design
director Francesca Amfitheatrof leaving,
this appointment is expected to usher in
a new era in the history of the cult Ameri-
can brand, increasing its sales in the USA,
strengthening its position globally, and
appealing to a younger generation of
customers. As artistic director, Krakoff will
be responsible not only for designing
Tiffany & Co.’s jewellery and accessories
but also for marketing, online sales and
designing its brand boutiques.
Tiffany rings the
changes
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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Fashion in Toronto
Marni’s debut
show
The men’s fashion week that took place
in January was particularly full of ex-
citement for designer Francesco Risso,
as he presented his debut collection
for Marni. Readers will remember
Consuelo Castiglioni, its founder and
designer since the very beginning, left
the company last year. Despite these
very significant changes in Marni’s
management, the new collection
retained the brand’s distinctive style
and humour, although it was not so
avant-garde as those from Consuelo’s
times. With all the geometric prints
that you would expect from Marni, plus
a bright colour palette and dense fab-
rics, Risso also made an effort to attract
a new, younger audience.
The July 2016 Toronto Fashion Week might have been called off, but here is some news
that Canadian designers will love: it’s back on.The shows will begin on March 9, right after
Paris Fashion Week, and run until March 14.The new development strategy centres around
digital support, live show broadcasts, and a competition of young designers, powered by
the Toronto Fashion Incubator.The winner of the competition will have an opportunity to
present their future collection at the Toronto Fashion Week, with all organisational costs
covered by the Toronto Fashion Incubator.
Protective steps
PETA, the world-famous animal rights
organisation, has bought a share in Louis
Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), hoping
to influence the brands that make up the
corporation and to restrict sales of bags,
footwear and other products made of ex-
otic animal leather. PETA is particularly con-
cerned about the state of affairs at several
crocodile farms in Vietnam which supply
raw materials for a number of brands in
LVMH’s portfolio.The precise amount of
the shares now belonging to the animal
protectors is unknown, but it is certainly
large enough for their owners to attend
shareholder meetings and submit the mat-
ters in question for consideration, and thus
affect the decision-making process.
FASHION NEWS
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+ A C C E S S O R I E S
F A L L W I N T E R 1 7 | 1 8
O U R L O C A T I O N S
WHITESHOW
WWW.WHITESHOW.IT WHITESHOWOFFICIAL WHITESHOW
F O L L O W U S
con il patrocinio di
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Back in the USSR
To launch his autumn collection,
Gosha Rubchinskiy has invited fash-
ion lovers to Kaliningrad. Having
been a German town before World
War II, it’s the perfect venue for the
designer to showcase the fruits of
his cooperation with Adidas, the
German sport corporation.They
will be working together until the
FIFA World Cup in 2018, which
will take place in several Russian
cities. Sport is a key theme for the
Gosha Rubchinskiy Autumn 2017
collection. Sporty trousers with
Adidas’ legendary three-stripe
design,T-shirts with inscriptions,
raincoats and suits: everything that
makes up the wardrobe of an ordi-
nary football player from a typical
Russian city.
Maria Grazia Chiuri on
the jury for LVMH Prize
The jury for the prestigious young fashion de-
signers’ competition, held with support of the
LVMH corporation, has been joined by Maria
Grazia Chiuri from Dior.The LVMH Prize
is a unique competition.Young designers
apply online, and the jury of experts chooses
the winner out of over 1,000 contestants.
Besides Chiuri, the jury boasts Karl Lagerfeld,
Jonathan Anderson, Nicolas Ghesquière and
other designers and journalists.The winner
gets a cash prize of €300,000 and 12 months
of personal support to develop the company
they set up.
Diane von Furstenberg
rebranded
The designer Jonathan Saunders, appointed
as creative director for Diane von Furstenberg,
continues to ring the changes in this American
fashion house.This time, DVF’s logo, mon-
ogram and corporate colours have all been
rebranded.As Saunders reveals, the new
promotional campaign will not be centred on
the image of a model but will be based on
using the logo against a background of corpo-
rate colours which will change from season to
season.Three key colours were chosen for this
spring: red, yellow and blue.The combination
of these colours and graphic elements will be
featured in labels, merchandising and products,
and in the promotional campaign.
A new CEO for
Burberry
This July, Christopher Bailey is to leave
his office as chief executive officer
of the British Burberry Group to be
replaced by Italian businessman Marco
Gobbetti. However, Burberry won’t
be losing Bailey altogether, as he will
be stepping up to his new role as
president of the company, while also
retaining his post as the chief creative
officer. As for Gobbetti, his portfolio
includes working for Bottega Veneta
(1984–1989), Moschino (1993–2004)
and Givenchy. Before he was appoint-
ed at Burberry in 2016, the Italian
fashion veteran also worked at Céline
together with Phoebe Philo.
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The height of popularity
Search engine Google has summed up its
statistics and revealed the most popular
search queries submitted by internet users.
The top fashion-related queries are not the
designers who presented the best dresses,
but rather those noticed for their star pro-
files and scandals. So, the top ten queries
include Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Kanye
West, Beyoncé, the singer Zendaya, and
Ivanka Trump.The very top one searched
for is the designer Rachel Roy, all because of
the rumours that she was the other woman
Beyoncé refers to in her songs about her
husband cheating on her. Users also goog-
led Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, actresses
who became successful designers, and
Sonia Rykiel, who died in 2016.
High society
Two newcomers have joined the elite cir-
cle of brands entitled to call themselves
haute couture fashion houses. Schiapa-
relli and Julien Fournié bring the total
up to 15 now. Other members include
veterans Chanel and Christian Dior, and
more recent additions Alexander Vau-
thier and Alexis Mabille. The decision to
admit Schiaparelli and Julien Fournié to
this elite society was taken by the French
Federation of Couture, based on three
strict conditions: every outfit must be
handmade, the brand must have studios
in France, and they must hold two haute
couture shows each year.
The magic touch
Kevin Kerrigan, ex-global creative director
for CK Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans and
Calvin Klein White Label spent 18 years
creating those legendary CK jeans, but
now he’s joined American fashion house
Ralph Lauren. He’ll take up the roles of
senior vice president and creative director,
working his magic on their women’s range
and on Chaps, their sport line.
B U Y E R
Carven revitalised
Simkhai’s sporting
success
Jonathan Simkhai, the young and
promising American designer, winner
of the CFDA/Fashion Fund Awards
and a favourite of the Kardashian and
Jenner sisters, has created a collection
together with Carbon38, a popular
brand of sport clothes. As expected,
the results are brilliant. The 16 co-cre-
ated items include flounced sport jack-
ets, leggings with lacing, jackets with
puff sleeves and other stylish pieces
that blur the distinction between fash-
ion and sport clothes. The collection is
already on sale, with items priced from
$125 to $465.
From February 1 when he takes up his new appointment, Swiss designer Serge Ruffieux is
set to return Paris fashion house Carven to its former glory. Ruffieux has closely worked with
Sonia Rykiel and Raf Simons. When the latter left Christian Dior to be replaced by Maria
Grazia Chiuri, Ruffieux was head of the legendary fashion house for two years alongside
Lucie Meier, even producing his own fashion collection. He is now starting on a new, inde-
pendent chapter in his career. His debut for Carven will be a lookbook for the Cruise 2018
collection, which we are going to see showcased for the Spring/Summer 2018 season at
Paris Fashion Week this October.
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INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova
PHOTO: Lior Susana
BUYER TALKS OVER THE FUTURE OF OFFLINE RETAIL WITH ARMAND HADIDA, ONE
OF FRANCE’S MOST INFLUENTIAL BUYERS, THE OWNER OF LECLAIREUR CONCEPT
STORES AND THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF THE TRANOÏ TRADE SHOW
‘IT’S TIME FOR A
REVOLUTION IN
BOUTIQUES’
How would you explain the success of LECLAIREUR?
I’d say LECLAIREUR is a success because each of our
shops has a distinct style, design and set of goods.
We don’t want customers to feel that if they’ve seen
one, they’ve seen ‘em all. Quite the opposite: we give
shoppers a reason to visit each boutique because there’s
a new hidden gem to be unearthed in every one of them.
The selection of brands in your shops has always set
LECLAIREUR apart. How do you decide what to include
in your stock and who does the buying?
My wife, Martine, helps me. She takes responsibility for
womenswear, and I am responsible for menswear. We
also have an assistant, which makes three of us.
When we just started we made a point of bringing
our customers something special, something singular,
something not to be found anywhere else. We travel a lot
looking for lesser-known fashion exhibitions, remarkable
showrooms and talented designers. So essentially we are
searching for something new and unseen in the Parisian
and French markets. This was how we conceived the idea
of Tranoï, as a place where we could present budding
brands and bring new names to buyers. Buyers must
always be on the move and constantly on the lookout. I
visit European cities regularly and I’m also often in Asia,
visiting cities like Shanghai, Tokyo and Seoul.
Do you ever visit multibrand stores when you travel, out
of sheer curiosity?
Almost never. I always try to avoid department stores. It
wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say I’m practically allergic
to them! Sometimes, though, when in a mall, I may
wander around the ground floor and occasionally enter
one of the fragrance stores you find there, because I like
it when you open the doors and the aromas carry you to a
dream world.
But I will never go to the upper floors – there are too
many things there, too many options. As I see it, today’s
customers need more space in the shops, which requires
different merchandising strategies.
In your shops you sell design pieces along with clothes.
Was this concept easy to implement?
It wasn’t easy at first. The customers took a while to get
used to these pieces being part of our stock, rather
than mere elements of design. Many of them couldn\'t
understand how you could mix fashion and design.
But fashion is one of many manifestations of creativity,
and creativity and style are everywhere – in furniture, in
glasswork, in silverwork. All these things are parts of a
larger whole.
What is the buyer’s role in fashion network?
Buyers are for fashion what chefs are for cooking. They
are crucial to the whole operation. Just like a chef, a buyer
chooses ingredients and turns them into an appetising
collection. The result is like a dish, like a musical piece.
The success of your business rests on a good buyer: if
the shop can’t sell what a buyer has purchased, you
have to put it on sale and lose your profit. When a crisis
strikes and you have to cut your budget such mistakes
may cost too much. It’s a risky business. You only have
a few months to sell products at full price. Make the
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WHEN THE SAME TIRED ITEMS ARE ON SALE
EVERYWHERE, IT’S PLAIN BORING. BUT IF YOU
OFFER SOMETHING UNUSUAL,AND YOUR SHOP
IS THE ONLY PLACE WHERE CUSTOMERS CAN
GET IT,THAT MEANS THATYOU’VE DONE
A GREAT JOB
wrong decision, and you’ll have a hard time trying to
shift them at half-price. The competition is too fierce.
Here, in France, we\'re starting to see shops taking on
the tradition of Black Friday. These campaigns are very
bad for business. They stem from American retail models
and it’s department stores that are to blame, purchasing
more than they can sell. Under such tough circumstances
mere intuition is not enough. To succeed you must be
creative and know how to make people’s dreams a reality.
The customer might not even know exactly what it is that
they’re looking for, but the buyer should be able to make
them realise: this is it! A good buyer knows how to build
the perfect image and conjure the perfect atmosphere
for a boutique. S/he always brings something new. You
know what mistake most buyers make? They all buy the
same things. It doesn\'t help assert their originality. When
the same tired items are on sale everywhere, it’s plain
boring. But if you offer something unusual, and your
shop is the only place where customers can get it, that
means that you’ve done a great job.
How has the notion of luxe changed?
I think that luxe today is about distribution, not prices.
By choosing where to have your products sold you
yourself determine their worth and value. Many major
brands now have their shops at airports and soon I think
they’ll start putting their shop-in-shops in railway stations.
They do it for the sake of the numbers. But these brands
have lost their aura of exclusiveness. I can name only two
fashion houses that are still sticking to their principles
and manage to keep their identity: Hermès and Goyard,
though Hermès also has its stores at the airports, but
sells only travel accessories there.
What is your vision of the future of the offline retail in
the age of ecommerce?
Brick-and-mortar stores enjoyed enormous advantages
in the 20th century, but advances in technology has
made it harder for them to stay on top and to provide
their customers with all the services they expect. I think
that offline retail as we know it is behind the times. It’s
time to change. You can’t cling to the old methods
anymore – customers are different nowadays, and so
they need a different approach. Boutiques haven’t
much changed since the 18th century, when the first
one was opened in France. Later came department
stores, but there was nothing dramatically new. They
didn\'t have any individuality, and customers are looking
for something unique, made-to-measure, figuratively
speaking. They feel more at ease buying online, via their
mobile phones or basing their choice on what they see
on social media.
How do you compete with online shops?
We worked it out long ago. Back in the 90s, when
nobody did it, we already collaborated with artists and
other creative people. For instance, we have recently
asked Alain Ducasse to give some training sessions
and a series of special suppers. We built a professional
kitchen just for him, and now we rent it out for parties
and other events. A successful businessperson knows
that you can’t stand still, you must always keep moving.
We’re always trying to reach out to our customers, to
answer their needs, to win their attention and interest,
to develop a kind of a new language, a new means of
communication between the concept store and the
customer. For example, in 2001 we broke the mould
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in terms of marketing and opened a new shop, Hérold,
on a very tranquil, secluded street, no outdoor sign,
no shop windows. A hideaway, a secret place only for
those in the know. And a world of light, beauty and style
behind the door. Goldman Sachs once named Hérold #1
luxury shopping experience in the world.
Your website still doesn’t have an online store. Is this a
matter of principle?
In fact, we’re about to relaunch our website, as it’s rather
old, and we’ll have our online store there, but, as usual,
we want to make it something special. Modern websites
are built on a common model, with the same set of
functions and options. So now we are thinking about
how to revolutionise online stores. When we opened
our first website 15 years ago I put a picture of myself on
the home page. I hadn’t shaved for a week to achieve
the desired effect! Then there were 10 pictures with
questions on fashion, design and photography, and to
enter the website a user first had to answer at least five
of them. It was a bold move away from the mainstream
web idiom. We wouldn’t get away with it now, of course!
It would be madness. But we will certainly come up with
something unconventional...
How do you promote LECLAIREUR on social media?
We have a team handling online promotion. Instagram
is our leading tool, it’s much more important than
Facebook now. Our strategy is giving people more than
just a discourse on fashion. We talk about lifestyle, we
share our philosophy, exchange points of view, and
establish a dialogue with like-minded people.
What does it mean to be your customer?
We want to offer our customers a different perspective,
to help them feel in a new way. Every person is
multisided, and we help to discover these sides. It
may be confusing and even uncomfortable at first,
because you learn to look at yourself in a way you’ve
never done before, and yet such changes may prove
beneficial. Every person is like a diamond, each side of
which reflects the light differently. The power of fashion
is tremendous because it gives you an opportunity
to change. Our shop assistants\' mission is to help
customers to construct a new image, which would bring
out the best in them. Think of it like a magic personality
cocktail!
What is the concept of your first American store and
how is it different from your shops in France?
It’s not a store. I think that a store in a traditional sense is
giving way to something new. You can open a boutique
but you won’t bring anything original onto the market.
What customers need today is a new language, a new
means of communication. If you use all the letters of the
alphabet, A, B, C, D and so on, you can make a word or
a sentence, but repeating the same letter will get you
nowhere. It won\'t make a language. In Los Angeles we
use the whole alphabet – we have both art objects and
exclusive pieces of clothing. We are the only retail shop
in America that carries garments by Carol Christian Poell.
Only a few shops in the world have them, and we’ve
fought for the right to bring his collections to American
customers. The way we display them is also in a new
language. But wait and see.
Why LA, not New York?
I am in love with this city and its incredible atmosphere.
LA is all about cinema, music and design. It attracts
talents from all over the world. To be honest, I’ve never
studied this market on purpose. I am not American and
I am not going to teach the Americans anything, I just
want to offer them my view and my philosophy.
What new developments will the customers find in your
Paris stores?
I mix with so many creative people. I am going to keep
collaborating with chefs. We want to give a series of
thematic suppers with the menus built around truffles,
as well as giving wine tastings and invite well-known
sommeliers. Customers will get it all for free, naturally.
They just come and have a good time and buy a bottle of
fine wine if they wish. That’s how I see it. When you live
in a big buzzing city like Paris it\'s important to know that
you can go to an event where all you have to do is relax
and enjoy some time out. We have never looked on what
we do as a commercial enterprise. We strive to set up a
nice place which feels like home.
But still, it all boils down to sales?
I always instruct my staff to never pay compliments to
customers just to flatter them. They’re likely to feel that
you are being insincere and doing it just to make them
buy something. My staff\'s job is not to sell, but to offer. A
customer must make his or her own mind and say: yes,
this looks great on me. To make a decision is all up to the
customer, and to confirm this decision is up to the shop
assistant.
As the creative director of Tranoï, what can you say
about the way it has changed over the years and its
future?
Tranoï has come a long way since its launch in 2003.
When we began it featured only womenswear brands.
Menswear collections and pre-collections have been
added little by little. A few years ago we expanded
outside of France and brought the show to New York.
Now we are planning to introduce Tranoï to a Shanghai
audience. We will showcase the works of both European
and Asian designers there. And we will keep on
developing our presence in the USA, which gives us a
fantastic potential for growth.
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INTERVIEW: Tatiana Rosenstein
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
CURRENTLY BUSY PROMOTING HER LATEST FILM “PLANETARIUM” THE TEENAGE DAUGHTER OF JOHNNY
DEPP AND VANESSA PARADIS, LILY-ROSE DEPP, IS PROVING TO THE WORLD THAT SHE NOT ONLY HAS THE
FACE OF AN ANGEL BUT A MATURE ON SCREEN PRESENCE TO MATCH; AND ALL IN THE SAME YEAR THAT
SHE WAS PICKED AS THE FACE OF CHANEL’S NEW AROMA N5 L’EAU
“I ALWAYS WANTED TO
BE A CHANEL GIRL”
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“Planetarium” is about siblings with supernatural abilities.
What do you think about your heroine?
The film shows my character Kate living just before the
outbreak of the second world war and it is never clear if she
actually has a supernatural gift or if she’s faking it just to sur-
vive in those tough economic times. As I couldn’t know for sure
whether she was truly gifted or just pretending to be I chose
to play her in an uncertain way. It was interesting just to put
myself into the role without judging or thinking too much.
How did you come to the project?
Natalie Portman sent a photo of me to the director Rebecca
Zlotowski when she was looking for the actress to play her
sister, so I was able to meet Rebecca for coffee without going
through dozens of middlemen. I was living in Los Angeles
at the time and had barely made one film. My role in “The
Dancer” would come later. I liked Rebecca very much and I
liked the fact that she was very clear about what she wanted.
Kate’s character touched me because many of her personality
traits resounded in me. I have a cheerful, sunny side, but I also
have a shy side when I’m just stuck in my own world. Kate is
not very grounded; sometimes she seems to float between life
and death.
What was the most challenging aspect of this project?
It was the first time I’d read a script in French. I’m bilingual, but
I studied in English and so reading in French was more of a
challenge for me. During the shooting the most difficult scene
was the one where I had to cry. I put myself into the character’s
emotional state and looked up at the sun to help me a bit. The
tears came and once they flowed I couldn’t stop myself.
Which scene was the most fun?
The most joyful scene to shoot was the one of the party, when
it’s snowing at night. Emmanuel, who played the French film
producer, carried me on his shoulders. We drank champagne
and were intoxicated. I hurt my leg during this scene but
despite the blood and the cold, I still didn’t want to stop.
Although the story is sad, the set was very joyous.
How do you manage to feel so confident at the age of
just 17?
I don’t always feel confident. I have those moments when I feel
lost or I like I’m not good enough, just like everybody else, and
I’m intimidated by of all of the expectation. I think it’s import-
ant to put yourself out there for roles and do the best job that
you can in order to create confidence. The results will come
naturally.
How do you approach acting?
I don’t have a wealth of experience yet so I need to listen to my
gut. I think that the ability to let go is paramount in an acting
career. When shooting “The Dancer” in the Paris Opera I was
playing this great artist, Isadora Duncan. She’s genuinely nat-
ural and I learned so much from her. I love playing characters
that are free, seductive, shocking; maybe a little manipulative.
How was it to work with Natalie Portman?
Natalie is an incredible actress, she’s icon for me and I’ve seen
almost all of her films. I’d been told there was a resemblance
between us and when I see images of the film today, I can see
that we look like sisters. Natalie was so protective and caring
towards me that it was easy to play her younger sibling and
look up to her, the feelings of respect were sincere.
“Planetarium” is set in Paris. How was for you to come back to
Paris?
I love Paris. I was born there and throughout my whole life I’ve
gone there to meet my parents. Paris is and will always be a
place which I associate with seeing my family. It was interesting
to see the city in a whole new light and shoot in the streets
that I used to walk through when I was a child. Now I was there
with my film crew and it all felt very surreal, especially in period
dress surrounded by horses.
Do you believe in supernatural forces?
I do. Although of course I can’t be sure, I haven’t personally ex-
perienced something like that, but I believe something is there,
some energy around us. Playing the role of a medium inspired
me, as I’m not an entirely rational person and I like the idea that
spirits stay with us after our death. I believe in horoscopes. I’m
a Gemini, which is a very spontaneous sign and I’m definitely
spontaneous.
Do you feel that you had a childhood being a daughter of
celebrities?
It’s difficult trying to do regular kid’s stuff when you’re constant-
ly in the spotlight. On the other hand, though I feel privileged
knowing people like Karl Lagerfeld whom I met for the first
time when I was just eight years old. I’ve now known him for
over half of my life.
What is fashion for you?
Fashion was always a big thing for my mother and for me. I
remember seeing pictures of myself when I was a baby wearing
my mum’s Chanel pumps or proudly carrying her Chanel bag.
I always wanted to be a Chanel girl, I felt very special in those
outfits.
‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016
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‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016
Do you think that kids can appreciate fashion?
It’s not about being a kid or an adult. Fashion is about exper-
imenting, taking risks, and having adventure at any age. The
best phase for experiments is childhood.
What do you especially like in Chanel?
For me Chanel is Karl Lagerfeld and what I love in Karl is that
he really knows how to bring out the best in you. No matter
how you feel or look, in his hands you’re going to look amaz-
ing.
What is your favorite piece of clothing?
Probably the top.
How do you like your make-up?
I like blush as eye shadow, and emphasized eyes.
Do you prefer acting or modeling?
I think acting, it feels more emotional.
Is acting something you always wanted to do?
No, first I thought about a career as a singer. I like singing. But
once I started acting I lost myself in acting and now all I want
is to act.
Have your parents ever tried to influence your choices?
No, I don’t think so. They’ve been very supportive since my first
steps and they leave me to create my own experiences.
How was it to play together with your father?
We played together in “Yoga Hosers”. It was very cool to be
able to see him not as my dad, but as a professional. I was
excited to finally work with him on set, even if only for a week,
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‘PLANETARIUM’ 2016
and we had a good time together. I was amazed how con-
fident he was about his role and how he would communi-
cate it to the film director.
What do you think about your popularity?
Even though I grew up with the media circus, I don’t like
the pressure of being constantly photographed. I always
wonder who would want to see me so often or to read
what I eat or wear. It’s weird. I don’t think I deserve this
attention.
What are you going to do about it?
No matter what happens the circus seems to keep going
and it was never my choice to participate in it. I’m sort of
a home buddy, quite a chilled person and definitely not a
club-goer. When I’m working I don’t have time for anything
else. If I have a break, which can be two or three months I
normally like staying home, relaxing or going to the gym.
I’m not going to take this media circus too seriously. I want
to live my life, stay calm, have time for myself, and to meet
my friends. My friends keep me grounded.
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/Associazione Pellettieri Italiani
Promoted by
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/DESIGNERS
\' Nature and ar t would be my fundamental sources of inspiration. Nature is my escape.
I f ind peace being in the countr yside and ever y collec tion I make is inspired by nature:
my designs are ver y organic .\'
J o s e p F o n t , D e l p o z o
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f D e l p o z o p r e s s o f f i c e
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HANDCRAFTED TRADITIONS
IN AN EXCLUSIVE INTERVIEW FOR BUYER THE CREATIVE DIRECTOR OF DELPOZO,JOSEP FONT
SPOKE ABOUT HIS LOVE OF TRADITIONS, HIS FAVOURITE SOCIAL MEDIA AND THE IMPORTANCE
OF E-COMMERCE
INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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B U Y E R
Coco Chanel once said: ‘Fashion is architecture. It is a
matter of proportion’. Do you agree? Do you think it
would be somehow different for you to work as a de-
signer if you didn’t have a degree in architecture?
I really can’t say how it would have been for me to design
without my background in architecture. Of course, due
to my training, I did develop a sense of proportion.
Everything needs to be balanced in order to achieve a
harmony between volume, silhouette, colour and texture.
This not only applies to every piece I design, but also to
each collection as a whole.
Where do you draw your inspiration? Is there something
that always works even if you are not in the mood?
Nature and art would be my fundamental sources of
inspiration. Nature is my escape. I find peace being in
the countryside and every collection I make is inspired by
nature: my designs are very organic. And I also love art. I
often take inspiration from an exhibition I visit or a ballet
or opera I attend. Sometimes it’s as simple as discovering
a new artist in an art gallery, or focusing on a particular
painter or architect I am fond of.
DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017
DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017 DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017
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DELPOZO PRE-FALL 2017
All of your creations are extremely feminine. Tell us
about the Delpozo woman. What’s it like to be her?
How does she think of herself and of the world?
I envision a woman who has no defined nationality,
age, profession or background. She is a citizen of the
world; and she understands fashion and what suits
her best, that’s why she dresses for herself, not for
others. She is delicate yet strong, modern yet timeless,
feminine yet bold.
Embroidery and other traditional hand-working
techniques are essential elements of the Delpozo
aesthetic. How do you combine tradition and inno-
vation in your creations? What avant-garde materials
do you use?
I try to reclaim artisanal techniques and combine them
with fresh designs to create timeless collections. Every
embroidery piece is designed by Delpozo and made
in house – we have a great embroidery team trained
by Lesage in Paris. I believe in protecting our crafts-
manship, it’s key to our future. That said, I feel we have
to continue innovating and looking for new ways to
translate this craftsmanship into a modern aesthetic.
I like combining traditional materials like Swarovski
crystals, sequins and pailletes, and mixing them with
natural shells and PVC, or creating embroideries out
of textures and elements that you don’t usually think
of: wool, raffia threads etc.
How much do your collections respond to the needs
of buyers and final customers and how much to your
own creative vision?
The collection is bigger than the pieces seen during
the show, we have a ‘more commercial’ side. Gar-
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ments range from white poplin shirts to embroidered
gowns so our customers have a wide selection of
options for different occasions. We cater to differ-
ent styles of customers – ones who are looking for a
special piece or others who want to fill their daywear
wardrobe with Delpozo. I’m about to present my sec-
ond pre-fall collection as we entered pre-collections
last year with pre-fall and resort offerings, and these
collections offer more day options which of course is
what customers and buyers are increasingly looking
for. However, I am always true to my vision. It’s some-
thing that cannot be compromised.
One of your first moves as creative director of Del-
pozo was to bring its collections to New York Fashion
Week. Was it difficult to establish yourself as an
important part of the event and of the industry?
This project was very challenging for me. When I
arrived in 2012 my goal was to start a new chapter
for the brand. I wanted a new language with a fresh
and modern vision for the house, while also respect-
ing its legacy. Of course it was difficult to establish
the brand, but we are so happy with the decision we
made when we decided to go to New York, we have
had a wonderful welcoming and almost five years later
I couldn’t be more proud of the whole team, who have
worked so hard to get us where we are. The great part
of NYFW is that they are always so hungry for newness,
so the first couple of seasons we were really being
looked at to see what we had to say in the fashion
market. February will mark my 10th collection under
the creative direction of Delpozo, and we have come
so far from the first show.
Your creations are represented on some of the most
famous e-commerce websites. Do you think websites
convey the same value for a luxury product as physi-
cal stores do?
Moda Operandi and Net-a-Porter have supported us
from the very beginning, and it was so helpful for us
to have such great partners from the get-go. I think
e-commerce is growing more and more everyday and
it’s important for an international brand to have an
online presence. The real challenge for a luxury brand
is to offer the same seamless shopping experience via
e-commerce as in store.
How important is for you to connect with your audi-
ence through social media channels? Which of them
do you use?
It’s the new way of communicating, not only between
businesses and customers, but also with your friends.
Instagram is my favourite, and also the fashion favour-
ite. I really enjoy using it as I have discovered many
artists to collaborate with and it gives us brands and
creatives new ways to get in touch with clients and
followers.
What do you think about the ‘see now, buy now’
fashion model? Would Delpozo consider adopting it
in the future?
For now, it is totally impossible for us to adopt this
new model. The way we work and our timings are too
complicated to make this change possible. Almost
all my designs have a little handmade something,
and some intricate pieces can take over 60 hours of
embroidery work, but I am curious to see where this
is going.
DELPOZO SS 2017
DELPOZO SS 2017
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YES, CROPPED PANTS, CULOTTES AND FLARES ARE BACK,ALIVE AND KICKING.
WHAT STARTED AS A BIZARRE STREETTREND HAS MADE IT INTO THE WARDROBES
OF THE MOST WITH-IT FASHIONISTAS AND IS SETTO BE IN FASHION FOR MANY
SEASONS TO COME
LET THERE BE FLARES
Formal and casual, wide-leg and slim-fit —
cropped trousers flared at an ankle level
are featured in almost every collection,
providing options for corporate clothing
as well as leisure wear. If you fear that they
may be tricky to style – don’t. Teamed with a
classic jacket, sweater or jumper, or paired
with a romantic blouse, they’re a versatile,
wearable item. The rule of thumb here is
to avoid vibrant colours and splashy prints.
However, Gucci’s Alessandro Michele has
proved that there is an exception to every
rule.
Cropped trousers may have front slits, as
in Versace and Fendi’s collections, or be
adorned with rivets on the side seams, as
shown by Prabal Gurung, while Frame and
Missoni prefer theirs plain and pared-
down to retain their edgy appeal.
A two-piece suit is another must. Piazza
Sempione puts a retro touch on it, Missoni
thinks preppy, and №21 makes it extra
vogue by replacing standard trousers with
culottes. To tap into the trend why not add
cropped jeans to your collection? As MM6
and Frame prove, they can be surprisingly
stylish.
Cropped trousers are best teamed with
elegant and feminine high-heeled shoes or
sandals, to balance body proportions. Flats
are still a no go as they make legs seem
short and stumpy, but if you really want
to shake it up try wedges as a refreshing
alternative.
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
See by Chloé
Fendi
Missoni
MM6
Prabal Gurung
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CHECKS AND PLAIDS ARE MAKING A HUGE COMEBACK,WITH TRADITIONAL
TARTANS, GINGHAMS OR WINDOWPANE CHECKS LEADING THE FASHION
PARADE
CHECK YOUR CHECKS
If check makes you think about a demure
schoolteacher in a double-breasted two-
piece, then think again. In the upcoming
season plaids, stylish and cosy just like
your favourite blanket, will be sought-after
by the most fashion-conscious. While these
patterns have a strong retro feel about
them, due to their popularity in the 70s
and 80s, they have been reinvigorated and
fit perfectly into contemporary fashion.
Forget dull browns and behind-the-times
red tartan, today’s designers know that for
fashionable clothes it\'s vivid colours and
colour blocking that’s needed.
A long straight-cut plaid coat, like the ones
offered by Carolina Herrera and 3.1 Phillip
Lim, is a must-have for any collection. It’s
bound to become an autumn wardrobe
staple and a canvas for experiments in
style. It is also a great investment piece; a
streamlined and strict plaid coat can suit
a woman of any age. Those who are even
more fashion-forward and want to mix-
and-match patterns and colours can pull
inspiration from Diane von Furstenberg,
Rag&Bone and Sonia by Sonia Rykiel.
Looking for something checked in youth
clothing? №21’s Alessandro Dell’Acqua
and Public School design garments that
convey the most progressive street fashion
trends. And for classic clothes enthusiasts,
I’m Isola Marras, Rosetta Getty and
Carolina Herrera offer a plethora of looks
for romantic ladies with a penchant for the
70s and 80s.
Carolina Herrera
Sonia By Sonia Rykiel
Public School
Rag & Bone
3.1 Phillip Lim
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HE DESIGNED HIS FIRST GARMENT – A BLUE STRAPLESS DRESS, IF YOU WANTTO KNOW – FOR HIS SISTER’S
BARBIE. BUT EVEN AS A CHILD, ERDEM MORALIOGLU KNEW HIS LOVE FOR FASHION WASN’TABOUTTO
STOP THERE.WE ASKED THE LONDON-BASED DESIGNER ABOUT HIS CANADIAN ROOTS,THE ERDEM
WOMAN AND FUTURE PLANS
“THE HEART OF FEMININITY
IS STRENGTH”
You grew up in a suburb of Montreal before mov-
ing to London. Have your Canadian roots influ-
enced you as a designer at all?
I think that maybe with growing up in Canada I
gained an appreciation for nature. I grew up near
a very large, very beautiful lake. But when it comes
to finding inspiration it’s not just nature that gets
me going. I look at everything around me; art,
music, books, films, travel, my friends, everything.
London is my home now, and as a city it is endless-
ly inspiring.
What most inspires your creative process?
When I start a collection I\'m always looking for a
narrative or a story… I love the idea of something
that feels cinematic, of approaching fashion like a
ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017
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ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017
ERDEM PRE-FALL 2017
film. I think it has something to do with my childhood
and spending so much time in my basement watching
film after film and daydreaming. I was obsessed with
old movies: Visconti and Hitchcock.
Your collections could be described as odes to fem-
ininity. What does femininity mean to you? Do you
think it’s easy to stay truly feminine nowadays?
I think the heart of femininity is strength. I love to
explore the codes of femininity, unpicking what makes
something feminine.
Is there a particular ‘Erdem woman’ you always
keep in mind while creating a collection or does she
evolve along with your collections?
She is so many different people. Ultimately she exists
in my sketchbooks, in my imagination… In reality she’s
beautiful, intelligent and marches to the beat of her
own drum. In every collection she is different.
Unlike many of your colleagues your designs go up
to a women’s UK size 16. Why do you think so many
brands ignore this segment of the market and why
did you decide to make a difference?
I’m interested in clothes that make you feel beautiful
and that you want to keep forever, no matter what
size. The most important thing is to create something
that fits.
How much do your collections respond to the
needs of buyers and final customers and how
much to your own creative vision? Do you ever fol-
low trends in terms of colours, cuts etc.?
Ultimately I just follow the story of what I am explor-
ing in my head, but there comes a point when you
have to understand your customer and her needs. I
think opening my first store in London helped with
the process, helped me understand my clients.
You’ve recently opened your first monobrand store
in London. Do you have any new openings coming
up, and if so, where?
I am excited to grow, I would love to open a store in
New York next. We’ll see!
Last year you celebrated your brand’s 10th anniver-
sary. Did you expect your brand would become
such a success? How do you see Erdem growing in
the next 10 years?
In 10 years time I’d love to have stores in different
parts of the world. But ultimately, in a strange way I
hope to be doing exactly what I’m doing now.
I think longevity is everyone’s goal and I love doing
what I do.
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Gucci
AS THE COLDER MONTHS APPROACH, IT’S TIME TO STOCK UP ON OUTERWEAR.
FOR AW 17 INVEST IN PADDED JACKETS AND CAPES: THEY’RE INSPIRED BY STREET
FASHION,ACCESSIBLE AND CASUAL,AND VERY,VERY IN
ON TOP
The vogue for padded jackets – once just
a utilitarian piece of winter sportswear – is
all thanks to Demna Gvasalia. The designer
started the trend with his collections for
Vetements and Balenciaga, and soon all-
occasion women’s quilted coats and jackets
were ruling the catwalks at Nina Ricci, Versace,
Emilio Pucci and Pringle of Scotland, to name
just a few. But what makes A/W 17 pieces so
special is their versatility. Instead of pairing
padded jackets with jeans or leggings
designers are thinking outside the box. Pringle
of Scotland teams them with classic white
trousers, Sonia by Sonia Rykiel puts them with
a girly dress and fishnet tights, and Iceberg and
Nina Ricci’s lookbooks even featured padded
jackets styled over an evening dress. The
truly fashion-forward could follow the expert
guidance of Alessandro Dell’Acqua, who puts
padded jackets with feather-adorned garments
and gem-encrusted belts. But jeans, as per
Cividini, or leather trousers, as seen at Versace,
are also excellent partners for this versatile
outerwear. That’s the magic of padded jackets:
they suit any style and dress code, be it casual,
cocktail or even white tie.
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Just Cavalligs
Chanel
Fendi
See by Chloé
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Versace
Emilio Pucci
If you still feel that a padded coat is too informal
for your collection, then drape yourself in capes.
This sleeveless garment with slits for arms is a
signature of British style, but love for it in the
fashion world knows no borders. This autumn
capes are made of wool and silk, with colours
ranging from pitch black to camel. See by
Chloé and Piazza Sempione offer loose and
cosy pieces for the first crisp autumn days,
and if you are looking for something for your
eveningwear section, then an elegant black
cape, as seen at Fendi and Chanel, is just the
ticket. Gucci’s Alessandro Michele also delivers
a fresh take on the classic cape design. Some
pieces, embroidered with tiny flowers, are
guaranteed crowd-pleasers, but he also stays true
to himself with some louder and more audacious
interpretations. Dare you to stock the one with the
panther head print. As a nice alternative you could
opt for jackets or trench coats with slit sleeves, like
the one featured in Neil Barrett’s collection. The
designer presents a chic office look by pairing
it with trendy cropped trousers for an ensemble
that is both classic and up to date. Using the same
trick, See by Chloé also puts a lively spin on the
classic beige trench coat.
Iceberg
Pringle of Scotland
WHAT MAKES A/W 17 PIECES SO SPECIAL IS THEIR VERSATILITY. INSTEAD OF PAIRING
PADDED JACKETS WITH JEANS OR LEGGINGS DESIGNERS ARE THINKING OUTSIDE
THE BOX. PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND TEAMS THEM WITH CLASSIC WHITE
TROUSERS, SONIA BY SONIA RYKIEL PUTS THEM WITH A GIRLY DRESS AND
FISHNETTIGHTS,AND ICEBERG AND NINA RICCI’S LOOKBOOKS EVEN FEA-
TURED PADDED JACKETS STYLED OVER AN EVENING DRESS
Nina Ricci
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THE STRONG IDENTITY OF THE GENEVA-BASED LABEL WORN HAS A SPUNKYAND SUBVERSIVE
UNDERCURRENT.THE BRAINCHILD OF MAGDALENA BROZDA AND PAULINE FAMY,WORN HAVE
TRANSFORMED THE NOTION OF A FASHION-FORWARD BAG, DELIVERING PRODUCTS OF THE
HIGHEST QUALITYAND LIVING UP TO THE STANDARD THAT ‘SWISS MADE’ IMPLIES
"OUR CLIENTS ARE
COLLECTORS"
You say that you don\'t create anything new, you
just reinterpret. Who and what are your current
objects of reinterpretation?
We’re inspired by the small things, that we use
every day and can sometimes be so banal that
we forget that they exist and how strong they are.
In every collection, we reinterpret and reuse the
basics that everybody has, knows, and uses: the
plastic bag, shoe bag, freezer bag, envelope etc.
We try to give them a sublime new lease of life
through leather craft and artisanal work.
How many people work in your atelier and how
quickly do you produce the collections?
We have a small but very efficient team. We
collaborate with a Swiss artisanal atelier, who
produce all our collections. We produce two
collections each year plus the special projects that
we work on in collaboration with other designers.
Our time of production is between one and two
months after the client order has been placed.
You use high quality leather for your bags. Where
do you source your leather from and what kind of
bag furniture do you use?
We use the highest quality Italian leather that we
source in Tuscany. The design of our bags is very
pure and minimalist. We don\'t use any jewellery or
metal elements. All the pieces are listed and num-
bered (they have a serial number, name of the
artisan and date of production on the label). The
tracing is very important for us. We also defend
the Swiss quality; our bags are 100% Swiss made
and we’re very proud of this!
As a young brand, what do you do to attract buy-
ers and customers?
We attract buyers and customers with the quality,
INTERVIEW: Anastasia Khvatova
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design, and creative identity of our products. We
have also a strong visual image to the brand, which
is the basis of our communication via Instagram and
Facebook. The artistic aspect of our work is the heart
of our project. We draw attention to the artisanal
skill and the handcrafting, which adds value to our
products.
How do you manage to combine your artistic
approach to design and the financial stability of the
company?
We try to find the balance between creativity, and
the reality of the market. Our clients appreciate the
artistic aspect of our products as well as the artisanal
production. We produce a range of products, from
basic to more complicated pieces, it’s this variety of
products that helps us to maintain the stability of the
company. We adapt to the needs and desires of our
clients.
It is said that a well-chosen accessory can upgrade
a very simple look, making it chic and unique. How
do Worn bags change the look of a woman?
Our bags have strong creative identity and we be-
lieve that they can bring the perfect final touch to any
simple look. The Worn client is self-confident, strong
and refined. The bags are the statement, especially
when teamed with the individual who wears them.
Following the eco trend, do you feel the need to cre-
ate something from eco leather in the future?
We use the best quality of Italian leather and we
collaborate with companies who respect the environ-
mental aspects of production. We make our bags with
the objective of zero waste. After we cut the bags, all
the leftovers are used in the production of our small
leather goods. Real leather is the heart of the artisanal
way, but we would never use exotic leather or fur.
What\'s your future strategy for Worn? Where do you
hope to be in 5 years?
Our strategy is to continue to develop the company,
to keep working with passion and to raise the profile
of the artisanal way of making leather goods. We
strongly believe that the market is looking for new
values and new solutions, which our products offer.
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A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
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The look
The principle is to create pieces that are
stand-alone objects and not just accessories,
so the “wow” factor is vital to the aesthetic
of the brand. I design handbags as beautiful
objects with the function to carry other
objects.
Inspiration
The natural world is always present in my
collections. Nature is the starting point for
everything in life, hence the brass beetle
leitmotiv in all the collections. From its tough
shell and beautiful jewel-like colours to its
extraordinary metamorphosis, the beetle
has great resonance with the style of the
brand.
Key pieces
The Beetle bag and the Dragonfly bag are
the key pieces of the collection; they’ve
been the staple pieces since the inception
of the brand. They’re both small to medium
sized, satchel-style bags which transform
into new little “creatures” each season.
Signatures
The muted simplicity of the form of my
handbags leaves space for the materials
to dazzle. I like to play with and mix various
contrasting materials and these are what I
spend the most time researching; achieving
a riot of results from refined to rustic, shiny
to matt, luxurious to simple. I design the
bespoke embroideries, and fur pieces that
adorn the bags and then work with carefully
selected artisanal experts to create the final
pieces.
The client
Women who smile and read poetry! I think
that my customers can be divided into two
groups: women who like to be noticed, and
women with a more understated classic
style who love to carry a complimentary
strong accessory.
Style icons
I admire the energetic modern women of
the past, and of today. I like women who are
not afraid to be who they want, who play
a strong role in their personal circle and in
wider society; women with a strong voice
and a unique personal style.
Highlights
A year ago I was selected as one of the
emerging designers to watch during the
Mipel tradeshow. Then, in July 2016, I was
one of the finalists in the Vogue Talents and
Alta Roma Who is on Next? competition.
Autumn/Winter 2017-18 preview
I don’t usually talk about my future
collections. All I will say about is that it’s
inspired by the oriental erotic.
Ioanna Solea
T H E N E W I O A N N A S O L E A C O L L E C T I O N
I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
Country
Italy
Year of founding
2013
Top stores
La Tenda, Verde Lilla, The Place
London, BS Moda, Cashmere
and Silk, Isetan
Collections per year
Two collections of handbags and
necklaces
Upcoming selling dates
February-March 2017
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The look
We offer a taste of wellness and luxury
honouring nature’s creative spirit and Korean
heritage.
Inspiration
All of nature’s most beautiful gifts are the
sources and ingredients of my inspiration,
coupled with my Korean heritage. Nature is
full of creative energy and life force.
Key pieces
The iconic ‘Navis’ bag represents the best
new aesthetic in accessories. And it’s a perfect
globetrotter essential, as ‘Navis’ means ‘ship’
in Latin.
Signatures
Our signature feature as a vegetable-tanned
leather bag is that all of our products are
handcrafted with eco-friendly processes.
All of our products bear the much sought-
after ‘Pelle Conciata al Vegetale in Toscana’,
Italy-certified tags. Our bags’ elegant lines
and forms grab the attention of the public
while subtle details, such as the botanic print
linings, offer a personal touch.
The client
Juhree Erba is for conscious souls who are in
pursuit of both inner and outer beauty.
Style icons
Our brand’s style icon is Audrey Hepburn,
who boasted both true inner beauty and
outer elegance. She captivated the crowd
with her natural elegance and humble
beauty.
Highlights
Our brand has been on the market for
less than a year, so everything we do is a
monumental step toward the future: setting
up the brand, being funded, designing and
producing for the very first time, participating
in multiple trade shows and so on. Most
recently, Juhree Erba was selected as one
of the five handbag designers to watch in
Vogue Italia.
Country
Designed in Seoul, South Korea.
Made in Italy
Year of founding
2015
Top stores
Galleria, My Boon (Sinsaegae)
Collections per year
2-4
Upcoming selling dates
25.02.2017 – 01.05.2017
T H E N E W J U H R E E E R B A C O L L E C T I O N
I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R
A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
Juhree Erba
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Isalda
The look
Isalda is a Spanish brand making
premium bags with a firm commitment to
contemporary craftsmanship. The fusion
of traditional techniques with abstract
concepts is a recurrent theme of the
designs.
Inspiration
Drawing inspiration from a range of real world
three dimensional objects from sculptural
origami, architecture, industrial design and
even the shadows cast by things, each piece
is an homage to geometry.
Key pieces
The first timeless collection from Isalda is
comprised of four unique cuts of bag and
one wallet. Available in three distinctive
tones: deep black, ice grey and carmine red.
Signatures
Unique patterns, precise hand-painted
cuts, invisible needlework and polished
gold settings endow our products with
the perfect balance between minimalism
and sophistication.
The client
Our customers seek exclusivity,
uniqueness and quality both in the
materials and in the manufacturing
processes used in the production of
their accessories.
Style icons
Isalda is made for women who like to be
the masters of their own lives; positive
and independent women who seek a
natural rhythm in everything they do.
Highlights
Despite being still in its infancy, last
autumn our brand was invited to
participate in Premiere Classe Tuileries,
the most recognized fashion fair within
the accessory sector.
Autumn/Winter 2017-18 preview
At Isalda we don’t believe in collections,
but instead release new colourful
editions of our high-quality leather each
season and one new bag per year.
Country
Spain
Year of founding
2016
Top stores
El Paracaidista, Barei Shop,
Not Just a Label, Qrator, Nass
Boutique, Lola Muñoz Store,
D2D
Collections per year
2
Upcoming selling dates
Every month of the year
T H E N E W I S A L D A C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
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Country
United Kingdom
Year of founding
2015
The stores
Harrods exclusive launch,
Harvey Nichols, Wonderland
Magazine shop
Collections per year
2
T H E N E W G L A D S T O N E C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
The look
Understated timeless design for the urbanite,
handcrafted to the highest standards. Clean
lines and functional pieces offered in colours
for the most refined of tastes.
Inspiration
With its contemporary aesthetic, the
Gladstone London range pays homage
to lost designs, and the craftsmanship of
the golden era of London Made. Using
world renowned skilled artisans, our young
designers gain inspiration and hone their
skills working alongside retired craftsmen.
Fusing the quality and craftsmanship of the
past with the needs of the future.
Key pieces
The iconic Diamond Cut Bolt Lock collection,
the brand\'s strongest and most recognized,
is being expanded: pieces include The G14
tablet case, G48 Travel bag and G21 Tote.
For those wanting designs that have less
vocabulary, who prefer the craftsmanship to
shine, then the G23 Backpack is streamlined
like no other and the G8 overnight offers
pared back versatility, flipping from an
overnight to a city tote with a simple zip.
Signatures
The hardware, diamond cut to reflect
the rough and smooth influences of
the brand, is handcrafted on a lathe in
Como in the north of Italy. All the bags
feature our luxurious, stain-resistant,
grey melange, Alcantara lining. Only
grade A skins are selected and the
shapes used are all influenced by
original vintage pieces from the London
Made era.
The client
The intellectually minded with unique
personal styles who remain under the
radar. City dwellers who wear pieces
from small artisan brands to reflect their
own values. Opinion formers, not follow-
ers, with a unique way of collecting and
mixing things up.
Style icons
Tina Chow, Lauren Hutton, Paul
Newman, James Dean, Marissa
Berenson, Eileen Grey, Steve McQueen,
Iman, Johnny Depp, Constantin
Brâncuși, Millicent Rogers, Richard Gere,
Bryan Ferry, Loulou de la Falaise.
Gladstone
Highlights
The brand aims to deliver luxury goods
at premium prices by building business
with modest margins, whilst maintaining
retailer revenue. Having seen it, Harrods
immediately launched the collection.
The designers and team have decades
of luxury experience having worked at
the likes of Bottega Veneta, Chanel and
Tanner Krolle. GQ Style voted Gladstone
the number one brand to watch AW16.
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Michael Kors
IN FASHION, IF CLOTHES ARE THE CAKE, THEN ACCESSORIES ARE DEFI-
NITELY THE ICING. BUYER REVIEWS THE LATEST ACCESSORIES TRENDS
AND LEARNS MORE ABOUT THE FINISHING TOUCHES THAT WILL TAKE
THIS SEASON’S STYLE TO THE NEXT LEVEL
GOING INTO DETAIL
ALL THAT JAZZ
Be it the Jazz Era or the Age of Aquarius,
fringe rules the roost in Roaring ‘20s-inspired
ensembles and 70s hippie chic. Not many can
pull off full-on fringe with the head-to-toe look,
but thankfully a bag is enough. Inspiration can
be found in Michael Kors’ reimagining of the
20s, or Diane Von Furstenberg who evokes the
bohemian spirit of the 70s.
LEG WARMERS TAKE OVER
Gone are the days when leg warmers were
only seen in dance classes: now this
simple accessory is making a huge catwalk
comeback. And what’s even better, they go
with everything: sneakers, flats and even
heels, as advised by Carolina Herrera.
VOLUME WARS
Either miniscule or massive, tiny or titanic –
there really is no middle ground when it
comes to bags this autumn. Go big with
oversized shopper bags, drawstring bags and
furry handbags, or add an in-vogue edge to
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
See by Chloé
Carven
Victoria Beckham
Diane von Furstenberg
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Fendi
your collection with classic micro bags à
la minaudière, with just enough room for
lipstick and phone.
A STATEMENT BAG
This season t-shirts with rebellious
slogans move over and let the bags do
the talking. These statement pieces say
it loud and say it proud. Coach has bags
adorned with a NASA pendant to send
a love letter to space, while Gucci and
Tory Burch offer items emblazoned with
the romantic messages ‘Loved’ and ‘We
belong to each other’.
WALK THE WALK
Forget skin-tight thigh boots and
stocking boots: they’re last year’s news.
Now it’s time for wide calf boots to have
their day. Yes, they might be clunky, with
something of a Robin Hood vibe, but
this season they’re perfect accessories
for any look thanks to their on-trend
versatility.
A MATTER OF HAT
No one goes unnoticed wearing a
straw or felt hat, especially if it’s a hat
from Patrizia Fabri. Based in Rome, this
80-year-old Italian brand is renowned
for its hats, handmade with traditional
methods but following the latest trends.
The result is irresistible and versatile
millinery, perfect for promenading on
the French Riviera or attending Royal
Ascot. Hats off to them!
Gucci
MM6
Tory Burch
Patrizia Fabri
T H E N E W P A T R I Z I A F A B R I C O L L E C T I O N
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CLOTHES SHOULD BE AS MULTIFACETED AS A MODERN WOMAN’S LIFESTYLE.THIS WAS THE
THOUGHTTHAT PROMPTED FOUR RUSSIAN WOMEN – AN ENTREPRENEUR,A BUYER,A STYLIST
AND A DESIGNER – TO FOUND SEAMORE
SEAMORE: A NEW
VISION FROM RUSSIA
SEAMORE AW17
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With ten years’ experience of buying and customers rela-
tions under their belts this all-women team had a unique
approach to creating a brand that set them apart from
many designers. Their first priority was to offer cuts that
would flatter every body shape, and designs that would fit
every lifestyle.
With this in mind, the young brand chose an unconven-
tional concept when they started creating their collection:
multiway dresses. Each design can be worn in more than
one way. Some pieces, for example, offer a reversible de-
sign so you can turn them inside out for a fresh look, while
others magically transform from maxi to mini.
Some of the most interesting looks have detachable
elements that make the dress perfect both for evening
occasions and for a day in the office. The brand’s creators
think that this ‘2-in-1’ or even ‘3-in-1’ approach will be
perfect for busy women who’re always on the go.
These double dresses have a lot of thought put into
them – in fact it’s almost impossible to find the trick unless
you’re in the know. But developing the dresses wasn’t
straightforward, as the Seamore team elaborate. ‘It wasn’t
easy to bring our vision to life so that the garments looked
balanced, fitted nicely and had the right price point. We
collaborated with a number of Italian factories until we
found a professional team of pattern makers in the heart
of Moscow. Sometimes the answer is right in front of you,
but to find it you need to walk a long way.” Interestingly,
Seamore’s founders prefer not to focus attention on them-
selves but rather on the real protagonists of the brand –
the women who wear its collections.
The brand launched for the Autumn/Winter 2017-18 sea-
son, and is already collaborating with a few Russian mul-
ti-brand boutiques operating in the luxury sector. Starting
in S/S 2018 the brand is planning to enter the internation-
al market, maintaining its production in Russia. ‘You won’t
find overt elements of Russian style in our collections, but
more subtle references to Russia are always there. We’re
inspired by Russian women who are incredibly multifac-
eted and strong – able to maintain a brilliant career and a
happy family.’
The name of the brand reveals both the life vision of wom-
en who choose to see more, and it’s also a reference to
the characteristic of the dresses – they are more than they
first appear to be. But we’re only just starting – the name
is also a clever multilingual pun, where sea is an English
word and ‘more’ is actually a transcription of the word ‘sea’
in Russian. Just to add a pinch of romance, the name also
hides the word ‘amore’. Seamore collections take inspira-
tion from the love stories of great artists and their muses.
SEAMORE AW17
SEAMORE AW17
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GEORGIAN BRANDS HAVE BEEN CAUSING A STIR WORLDWIDE, ATTRACTING THE ATTENTION
OF INTERNATIONAL FASHION EDITORS WITH THEIR FASCINATING DESIGNS. WITH BUYERS\'
NEEDS IN MIND WE\'VE SELECTED THREE BRANDS THAT COMBINE A UNIQUE AESTHETIC WITH
GREAT FIT AND QUALITY
MADE IN GEORGIA
Gvantsa
Janashia
JANASHIA
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B U Y E R
T H E N E W J A N A S H I A C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
Where do you draw inspiration?
It’s something different for every season, and it’s always
something new. A gripping film, a talented actor or musician,
or a country and its culture.
What are the key elements of your collections?
Asymmetric lines, intricate and diverse shapes, and the
painstaking treatment of details. I love working at each single
detail, I’m meticulous about it.
What woman would wear your clothes?
She is an unconventional-thinking, bohemian type, but the
main thing is her strong individuality and sense of style. Her
age doesn\'t matter. I make clothes for women of all ages.
At Janashia we want to bring masculinity and femininity
together in harmony in our garments. We value freedom
and beauty more than anything, and this is what we’re trying
to express through our clothes. All our collections channel
elegance and blend a graceful femininity with an underlying
masculinity.
Where are your garments made and what are your favourite
materials?
My team and I make our clothes in Georgia. My team are
highly professional and work from a lab with all the necessary
tools and equipment for the most large and complex
assignments. My favourite materials? Silk and all kinds of
silk fabrics — taffeta, organza, georgette crepe. I also love
working with cashmere, cotton and velvet.
What do you plan next? How do you see the future of your
brand?
We are working to make Janashia instantly recognizable and
we want more people to know about it, so we hope to reach
out to more foreign customers. We are going to participate
in all seasons of Tbilisi Fashion Week and work closer with
online platforms like Via del Buyer.
Georgian fashion is increasingly popular abroad. How do
you explain this growing interest?
I’ve been studying Georgian fashion for years and I think that
it’s a strong individuality that makes our designers so unique.
There is something very particular about the way we perceive
and use colour. It has been our trademark feature since the
Soviet period. Our collections have always stood out among
those of other Soviet designers, and today two of our design-
ers are famous internationally: Demna Gvasalia, who is the
Creative Director at Balenciaga, and David Koma, who is the
Creative Director at Thierry Mugler.
What have Georgian designers learnt over recent years and
what are they yet to master?
We are becoming a part of the global fashion industry and
we now know how to operate on foreign markets, but we still
need to make ourselves more recognisable.
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ATELIER KIKALA
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/B U Y E R
What inspires you when creating collections?
Personally I have never experienced these flashes of insight
when an idea suddenly hits you and everything clicks logically.
With me, preparing a collection doesn’t happen the way
musical masterpieces are born. I like it when everything is
under control and going according to plan: I know what I have
to do today and what can be left until tomorrow. I stick to
deadlines, so I deliberately sit myself down and start working,
without waiting for inspiration. It is not that all the ideas I need
arrive on a single day; rather, they accumulate in my mind over
time. I watch new movies, listen to music, follow the theatre,
keep my eyes open, and this provides the raw material. When
the moment to create a collection comes, I channel these
experiences into sketches and try to bring them together into
a single picture.
What kind of woman do you design your clothes for?
I have no specific kind of an ideal woman I create my clothes
for, as I do not separate people by their type of appearance.
For me, there are no limits to beauty. To be honest, I am not fond
of perfect people.
Where are your collections produced, and what materials do
you favour?
Our clothes are made in Georgia. Working with silk organza, silk
and wool is what I like best of all.
The Georgian fashion is being increasingly discussed abroad
in the recent years. What do you think has caused this growing
interest?
I find this one hard to answer as I am, of course, part of that
industry!. Perhaps someone looking from the outside, some
impartial expert would find it easier to expand on this. Every
person has their own roots, and my work is a complete reflection
of me and my vision of fashion. Probably what distinguishes the
Georgian fashion industry from others is this traditionalism and
a sense of rootedness: a connection for designers to where they
grew up.
What have Georgian designers learnt in the recent years, and
what do they still have to learn?
Looking over the past year, I would say the Georgian fashion
industry is doing well – nowadays foreign media and buyers are
starting to become very interested. They consider the Mercedes
Benz Fashion Week Tbilisi to be worth their attention. This event
is attended by major trendsetters, both locally and international-
ly speaking. So perhaps we cannot say yet that we have climbed
any major peaks but we are definitely going in the right direction!
The two most recent seasons have turned out to be really signifi-
cant, and this is a good beginning.
T H E N E W A T E L I E R K I K A L A C O L L E C T I O N
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Where do you draw your inspiration?
From films, music, modern art, travelling and just meeting interesting
people. I love walking around the streets of old Tbilisi or sitting in one
of my favourite cafés with my friends. All these things can affect the
way I feel. I’m also inspired by Paris and its museums.
What woman would wear your clothes?
I don’t have a particular woman in mind. Every woman has many
sides to her, many aspects of femininity – romantic, or edgily stylish,
or just simple. Individuality is what matters most for me. I sometimes
joke that having worked with so many private clients I’m a kind of
psychologist now. I enjoy meeting different people and learning
about their personalities and views.
Where are your garments made and what are your favourite
materials?
When we say we ‘make’ our clothes we really mean it! We do almost
everything by hand. ‘We’ means me and my team of craftspeople. It’s
a very limited production. As for my favourite materials, it’s silk. It\'s like
my signature fabric. You can often say that these are my clothes if they
are made of silk. For example, I often use double silk for trousers, suits
and overcoats. I also like silk muslin, cashmere, silk/cotton fabric and
leather. But I use leather so soft it looks and feels like silk.
What plans do you have for the future? Where is your brand
headed?
We are going to grow but we want to keep what makes us unique. We
won’t compromise quality and we will keep our clothes handmade.
Buyers already recognise our garments at first glance, and we are
constantly expanding our client base and getting more and more
orders. So we are keen on developing but we are not going to shift to
mass production. Preserving our individuality is the most important
thing for us.
What foreign designers have influenced you the most?
I can’t say I am strongly influenced as such, but I do have designers
and brands I adore: Nicolas Ghesquière, Miuccia Prada, Balenciaga,
Schiaparelli.
Georgian fashion is increasingly popular abroad. How would you
explain this growing interest?
I think it all began after Demna Gvasalia emerged. He really
revolutionised fashion. The global fashion industry was waiting for
something new, and Demna gave them exactly what they wanted.
Some people couldn’t even find Georgia on a map, and now, after so
many years, everybody’s finally talking about us.
What have Georgian designers learnt over the last few years and
what are they yet to master?
I can see only positive developments. Georgian brands now know
how to design collections and produce clothes on a larger scale.
Everybody used to present their collections whenever they wanted,
and now they showcase them twice a year, as is common in fashion.
And since Georgian labels now operate at a steady pace buyers have
confidence in them. Every brand knows this and does its best to
maintain its good reputation.
What makes Eastern European brands on the whole and Georgian
brands in particular different from Western European ones?
I don\'t think we are that much different. Each country is special
and unique in its own way. It’s something about the nation\'s DNA,
something that is very hard to put into words. As for Georgian brands,
I think we have this strong and even rebellious character which we
communicate with our fashion.
T H E N E W T A M U N A I N G O R O K V A
C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S
T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
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Tamuna Ingorokva
TAMUNA INGOROKVA
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NEW HEROES OF
FASHION SCENE
WE ASKED THREE UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS FROM ALL
OVER THE WORLD ABOUTTHEIR INSPIRATION, CREATIVE
VISION,AND THE AESTHETIC OF THEIR COLLECTIONS
JOLIN WU
Tell us about your background.
I studied womenswear in fashion
design at the Central Saint
Martin’s College and the Royal
College of Art.
What led to the creation of your
own fashion brand?
I suppose that some things just
come naturally. It was during my
teenage years that I first fell in
love with fashion design and I
just felt, from then onwards, that
this was what I wanted to do.
Where do you draw your inspi-
ration from?
I’m a life-long devotee of fine art,
installation art, and photography.
All my expressiveness originates
from my adoration of these art
forms.
How do you manage to
combine creative vision with
market demands in your col-
lections?
Working in the field of design
allows me to develop and
launch my ideas into the world
but always in the pursuit of
beauty. Great design uses
innovative concepts to cleverly
pull together the creativity of
the artist and the desires of the
market. The two forces can be
delicately balanced.
What makes your brand’s
vision and style unique, and
what sets your collections
apart?
Each season I tell a story and
sell a dream to every woman,
through fabric and design. I
make clothing that people
can cherish and be proud to
own as part of an everlasting
collection in their wardrobe.
With high-end quality materials,
unique design, and delicate
crafting: every piece of clothing
I produce is exclusive and has
its own aesthetic.
What signature elements of
your brand can be found in
every collection?
Unique handcrafting, boyish
feminine styles, pleats, and
original prints.
Describe the woman you
design your pieces for.
My mother! I design for inde-
pendent women with a passion
for life, uninhibited by age.
Give us a glimpse of what
to expect from your AW17
collection.
Feminine attitude and a new
narrative. I’m dedicating the
new collection to my grand-
father, he has always been a
great inspiration to me.
What do you think about col-
laborating with buyers online?
I’m thrilled with the collabo-
ration. I’m especially looking
forward to seeing Jolin Wu
collections online, and making
the brand available to a wider
audience.
MARIA PIANKOV
What is the process of creating a
new collection like for you?
Every new collection is a journey.
You start in one place and end up
somewhere completely different.
How do you manage to combine
creative vision with market
demands in your collections?
There is nothing that demands
creativity more than the limiting
factor of the customer`s wants and
needs. Being creative within a given
frame is a constant challenge, which
makes my job more interesting.
What makes your brand’s vision
and style unique, and what sets
your collections apart?
The collections reflect my
fascination with both technology
and couture. The brand is fresh
and easy to wear, but uses labour
intensive workmanship and
traditional needlework techniques.
I like to make a statement by using
clever cutting and innovative
product development processes,
this gives the garments an entirely
new feel.
What signature elements of your
brand can be found in every
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collection?
I like exploring the idea of
movement, I often think of
Michail Baryschnikov dancing.
I’m intrigued by sportswear and
new technologies, that’s why
my pieces are quite sporty and
have very technical finishes. I
trained in the Haute Couture
atelier of Valentin Yudashkin, so
I understand the value of haute
couture. This experience gave
me a natural inclination towards
exquisiteness and a respectful
approach to working with
garments using labour intensive
processes.
Describe the woman you
design your pieces for.
I like to think of a girl in a body
of a goddess. She’s elegant and
full of charm, yet in her heart
she’s playful and bold. Frank
Sinatra describes her perfectly
when he sings “The lady is a
tramp”.
Give us a glimpse of what
to expect from your AW17
collection.
The collection takes threads
of the past season, but we’ve
added new angles and explored
new ways to express the brand’s
identity. I travelled quite a lot
whilst working on AW17, so I had
to work from many new places
and surroundings, which stirred
up lots of different interesting
emotions. This has certainly
influenced the line.
PERCY LAU
Tell us about your background
and what led to the creation of
your own fashion brand?
I studied jewellery design
at Central Saint Martins in
London. After entering the
international talent support
accessories competition, back
in 2013, I won the YKK award
and this put me in contact with
a lot of inspiring people in the
industry. Their support and
advice gave me the courage
to continue to express my
ideas through eyewear and
accessory designs by starting
my own brand.
What is the process of creat-
ing a new collection like for
you?
It’s exciting and nerve-racking
at the same time. It would be
better if there was less pres-
sure. What with the fashion
weeks, sampling, production
and all the press demands,
designers have too many
deadlines to meet.
How do you manage to
combine creative vision with
market demands in your
collections?
Combining the two aspects
is always a challenge. It’s hard
to make a precise prediction
on the market demands; the
market will always surprise
you. One thing I can be sure
of, is that consumers are
always looking for some-
thing different. Once you’ve
transformed an abstract con-
cept into a product, you’ve
found the balance between
creative vision and market
demand.
What makes your brand’s
vision and style unique, and
what sets your collections
apart?
There are connections on the
theory behind my designs,
but each collection looks
completely different, right
through from the initial con-
cept to final product.
What signature elements of
your brand can be found in
every collection?
Recreation and transforma-
tion feature in every collec-
tion, but my designs always
challenge what you think you
know. I like to surprise.
What do you think about
collaborating with buyers
online?
It’s a fantastic opportunity
for designers to engage with
their audiences.
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The Eleganceallure designers draw
inspiration for their AW 2017/2018
collection from dreams, blending fantasy
and reality, exploring the movements
of the mind and workings of the
subconscious, and infusing Western
culture with Eastern influences. The
brand’s clothes evoke surreal visions and
free associations that let your imagination
run wild. A recurrent theme is the diversity
and sensuality of nature, a strange yet
familiar world of languorous girls and
enchanted gardens lush with dazzling
flowers and exotic birds, a mysterious
world of secret desires.
Magnificent floor-sweeping evening
dresses form a major part of the
collection. Elegant shapes, asymmetric
cuts and multilayering emphasise the
grace and fragility of the woman wearing
these art pieces, and rich colours – black,
violet, berry, carmine, canary yellow and
pearl grey – add a sensual note to the
vibrant sartorial chord.
With opulent fabrics like velvet, silk, lace,
organza and chiffon, the dresses feature
beautiful lace insets and handcrafted
belts. Other decorative elements
include raw edges drawing attention to
the fabric handle and intricate leaves
made from layers of air-light veiling and
chiffon and embroidered with metallic
threads, beads and sequins. Such
strong elements alone are enough for
the dress to speak for itself and there is
no need for accessories to finalise the
look.
And this, as any Eleganceallure girl
knows, is the secret of her charm:
to build a look that channels her
individuality and transmits an air of
self-confidence, harmony and inner
freedom.
HOWEVER FIERCE WE MIGHTAPPEAR IN THE BOARDROOM,THE TOUGH BUSINESSWOMAN ACT IS ONLY
THE TIP OF THE ICEBERG WHEN IN COMES TO A WOMAN’S FEMININITY.TENDER AND DELICATE YET STRONG
AND PASSIONATE – THESE SEEMING CONTRADICTIONS ARE TESTIMONYTO THE TRUE DEPTHS OF A
WOMAN’S NATURE. NOW EVERY WOMAN CAN REVEAL HER INNERMOST SPIRIT WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM
ELEGANCEALLURE,WITH GARMENTS THAT REFLECTTHESE SOMETIMES SECRETIVE BUT UNIVERSAL QUALITIES
OF FEMININITY
THE FEMALE PRINCIPLE
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MЕЖДУНАРОДНАЯ ВЫСТАВКА OБУВИ И ГOТOВЫX ИЗДЕЛИЙ ИЗ КОЖИ
INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR SHOES AND LEATHER PRODUCTS
21–24 МАРТА MARCH 2017
24 27 ОКТЯБРЯ OCTOBER 2017
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Givenchy
THE LEADING AUTUMN TREND IS IMPRESSIVE EARRINGS, LARGE BUT
ELEGANT. WORN PAIRED WITH HEADPIECES AND PEARL JEWELLERY
FOR THE BEST EFFECT
THINK BIG
Designers are never shy to add a splash of
theatrics to their shows. Not content with
limiting themselves to the clothes or runway
scenery, accessories and fashion jewellery, in
particular, are essential for a costume drama.
The short-lived enthusiasm for minimalistic
pieces — ear cuffs, chokers and thin chains
with pendants — is officially over. Now larger-
than-life fashion jewellery steps back into the
limelight.
Earrings are the main accessory of the
season. They are large, but not massive as
in previous seasons, and shaped into wire
splodges as at Edun shows or into large
drops as per Victoria Beckham. Pearls, a
delicate symbol of femininity, are also back
from a long exile. They add up to ornamental
stones in Etro’s colourful earrings while Stella
McCartney assembles them like grapes. The
evergreen floral motifs also make it onto the
catwalks, and here Reem Acra and Erdem
pieces are in full bloom. Single earrings will
also sparkle their way into the next season,
shining bright and stylish in the 3.1 Phillip
Lim pre-fall lookbook.
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Gucci
Stella McCartney
Chanel
Reem Acra
Alexander
McQueen
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Fendi
Another stalwart for the upcoming season
are headpieces. Fine crystal-encrusted
flower headbands were spotted on Reem
Acra models, while Fendi designers
assembled theirs from hair clips with
plastic embellishments. Riccardo Tisci took
the eccentricity even further. His daring
experiment of a giant plastic chain with a
stone that he designed for Givenchy will
not bring you down but will raise you to the
highest fashion ranks. The classic-minded
will find their favourite layered necklaces
made of chains and strings of pearls in
Chanel’s collection.
One more thing. “Thou shalt wear stand-
out accessories with neutral clothes”, says
the unspoken rule of styling. Not this time:
today’s statement bijoux calls for statement
apparel. Gucci, Marco di Vincenzo and
Erdem totally agree.
Chanel
Erdem
Edun
Gucci
Chloé
Kenneth
Jay Lane
Fendi
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T H E N E W S H O U R O U K C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
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PLAYING WITH
CONTRASTS
Shourouk established her eponymous
company in 2008. While of Tunisian descent
she’s a true Parisian and graduated at Studio
Berçot before honing her techniques within
the most prestigious fashion houses of
Chloé, Galliano, and Roberto Cavalli. “My
love affair with Jewellery began early. In
childhood, I was already playing with my
grandmother’s diamond bracelets. Later,
my different experiences in fashion houses,
made me understand that jewellery was my
vehicle for artistic expression. For me it\'s
more than just jewellery, it’s all about the
details and creating a piece that is perfect
from all angles. Creating jewellery makes me
feel like a sculptor”.
The main components of Shourouk’s
creations are Swarovski crystals. By
combining them with contrasting materials,
such as PVC and climbing rope, the designer
creates playful, contemporary pieces. She
travels through fashion history, mashing
up different inspirations like Bollywood
movies, with those of the 80’s, or the Russian
aristocracy.
In 2008, Shourouk accessorized the
Hollywood heroines of Jean Paul Gaultier’s
haute couture fashion show. She’s also
collaborated with Hiroko Koshino, the
leading Chinese luxury brand Shanghai-
Tang and is currently working on a new
contribution for Swarovski.
The brand’s accessories have been spotted
on many celebrities including Sarah Jessica
Parker, Blake Lively, Jennifer Lopez, Lady
Gaga, Beyoncé, Miroslava Duma and
Michelle Obama.
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T H E N E W S I M O N E V E R A B A T H C O L L E C T I O N
I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
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German jewellery designer Simone Vera Bath,
takes irregularly surfaced, vintage inspired
materials, and moulds them into one-off
pieces that breathe with the spirit of the olden
days. Designing collections for both men and
women, her high fashion lines rely on staples
of silver, bronze and wood, while her fine
jewellery features precious and semi-precious
stones exhibited in an assortment of golds.
Each item produced by the brand is unique
and carries a message, as Simone explains:
“My most popular creation is the Fedone. It’s
a ring to give to yourself and no one else:
to make a pact with yourself to accept who
you are and how you choose to live your life.
It’s like a wedding ring that represents you
being faithful to yourself.” Other innovative
creations by Simone include Town: a line of
rings depicting iconic sights of Rome, New
York, Paris, and Berlin. The planets and most
prominently Earth are the heavenly inspiration
for the new AW 2017 collection.
THE BEAUTY OF
IMPERFECTION
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Tim Coppens
HERE THEY COME: ARTISTS, INTELLECTUALS, FREELANCERS,THE WHOLE CREATIVE
CROWD. REFUSING TO GROW UP AND UNAFRAID TO EXPERIMENT,THEY CHOOSE
CLOTHES AS UNCONVENTIONALAS THE TIMES WE ARE LIVING IN
A TENDER AGE
The modern man can afford to stay between
boyhood and adulthood for much longer than his
forefathers. He doesn’t have to conform to society’s
expectations and he can build a creative career – or
no career at all. He can search for his own path,
knowing age is just a number. Naturally, this free spirit
dresses just the way you’d expect of an eternal boy.
So what are Peter Pan and friends wearing this
season? Thick real fur, faux fur and even patchwork
fur make an appearance as oversized coats, along
with sheepskin.The focus is feeling warm and cosy,
rather than looking lean and sharp, but thanks to
their cuddly silhouettes these pieces are perfect for
beating the winter chill.
In fact, clothes that warm the body and soothe the
soul are just the thing to reach for as autumn rolls in
this year. Chunky sweaters, long scarves and comfy
cardigans have all snuggled down in our wardrobes.
These knitwear pieces have a strong ethnic feel
about them, many with a hand-knit aesthetic.
J.W.Anderson and Chalayan follow the oversized
trend by bringing in maxi sweaters with elongated
sleeves thrown over cropped wide-leg trousers with
a high waist.
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Chalayan
Marni
Prada
Joseph
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Gosha Rubchinskiy
JUST WEARING ATHLEISURE MAKES YOU FEELYOUNGER, FITTER AND MORE
ENERGETIC. STILL WONDER WHYTHIS URBAN TREND IS WINNING HEARTS
AND MINDS?
A THIRST FOR SPORTS
Like the men’s three-piece suit, athleisure is already an
established classic in the fashion world. Designers have
been borrowing ideas from professional sportswear
for many seasons in a row and have so succeeded
in reimagining it for everyday life that it is now totally
acceptable to wear a suit and trainers to a restaurant, or
a bomber jacket and a polo shirt to the office.
Gosha Rubchinskiy, the leading advocate of post-Soviet
influences in fashion, has collaborated with Adidas
for his latest collection and brings us tracksuits, t-shirts
with giant Cyrillic slogans and side stripe trousers, thus
turning the wardrobe staples of 90’s Russian youth
into the uniform of the most style-savvy men of today.
Tracksuits effortlessly teamed with elegant outerwear is
an ideal everyday look, according to Tim Coppens and
Z Zegna.Who would have thought that red trousers
and a sweatshirt with a white sheepskin coat would
make such a perfect match?
Padded coats also rule this season, sported with a ski
mask as per Z Zegna instead of traditional headwear.
Plein Sport and Christopher Raeburn give us plenty of
looks to move effortlessly between the football field,
the gym or the street, and Versace and Ports 1961
propose some more excellent ideas.
Z Zegna
Christopher Raeburn
Neil Barrett
Versace
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Chalayan
WITH ITS TWO-PIECE SUITS,TAILORED COATS AND STARCHED SHIRTS A CLASSIC
MEN\'S WARDROBE IS A NO-NONSENSE AFFAIR, BUT IN THE UPCOMING SEASON A
BIT OF TIE-LOOSENING IS MORE THAN WELCOME
STRICTLY BUSINESS
Many men eschew fashion trends for a more
classic look, and treat personal style like pro-
fessional reputation: something that should
be slowly built up over many years. Designers
might disagree with this orthodox approach
but they know better than to rock the boat,
and so they introduce changes slowly and
subtly. A turtleneck worn instead of a shirt
under a formal suit jacket is one of the latest
updates to the classic look. The season’s
hottest combo dominates the catwalks at
Ermenegildo Zegna, Neil Barrett, Versace
and others.
Unlike last season, when designers revisited
the 1930s and brought us suits consisting
of a jacket and a pair of straight-cut, often
loose-fit trousers, autumn 2017 sees suits
given an upgrade and tailored much closer
to the body. The tide has turned, and men’s
suits are generally reserved and moderate,
although Chalayan and Neil Barrett provide
an exception to the rule with their bulkier
jackets and ankle-baring cropped trousers.
The number one pattern in men’s fashion
this season is undoubtedly checks. Large
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Dirk Bikkembergs
Dolce&Gabbana
Ermenegildo Zegna
Markus Lupfer
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Versace
Canali
Ports 1961
and small, bright and restrained, tartan and
Windsor – checks abound in the Canali, Mark-
us Lupfer and Versace shows. But they’re not
limited to suits – a long straight-cut plaid coat
is a must.
For a serious business look stay away from
bolder cuts and experiment with offbeat
elements instead: think a camel coat with
appliques or embroidery, as per Dolce&Gab-
bana, or a jacket with a contrasting inset, as
seen at Ports 1961.
1) The go-to accessory to team with men’s suiting is a spacious bag – say,
a carpet bag or a backpack – with plenty of space for necessities.
2) Don’t be afraid to add a splash of colour. Grey suits can be styled
with a red turtleneck as spotted at Versace.
Style tips
Neil Barrett
Ermenegildo Zegna
Salvatore Ferragamo
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SUCH IS THE MOTTO OF TOMBOLINI,THE ITALIAN BRAND OF MEN’S CLOTHES, FOUNDED
BY EUGENIO TOMBOLINI IN HIS NATIVE TOWN OF URBISAGLIA IN 1964.THE BRAND HITTHE
INTERNATIONAL MARKET IN THE EARLY 1970S AND BEGAN SELLING ITS COLLECTIONS IN
THE USA.WE SPOKE TO FABRIZIO PISANI, EXPORT MANAGER OF THE COMPANY,ABOUT
THE TRADITIONALVALUES AND INNOVATIONS, OF WHICH TOMBOLINI IS EQUALLY PROUD
Please tell us about Zero Gravity, your
breakthrough line of suits — they don’t crease and
you can fit one in your pocket!
We use super-lightweight fabrics to produce suits
that weigh almost nothing, about 400 g. No doubt,
these are the most lightweight suits in the world.
They fit the shape perfectly, and they are made of
the purest wool, cashmere, silk, linen and cotton.
“THE FUTURE HAS
ANCIENT ROOTS”
TOMBOLINI SS17
TOMBOLINI SS17
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T H E N E W T O M B O L I N I C O L L E C T I O N I S
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Do you follow seasonal trends?
It is important for us to go with the times and to do
research, so we combine various styles within each
collection and use innovative fabrics to create classic
images.
What does your Autumn–Winter 2017/18 collection
feature?
It has a lot of graphic and visual patterns, and its
colour range includes various shades of grey, from
lighter ones to a very dark shade which is almost
black. The Zero Gravity line features quite a bit of
bouclé fabric, a mix of wool, cashmere, and mohair -
we have a bouclé coat made of jersey. Its colour
palette is mostly made up of beige shades. The new
season also features our classic aubergine colour
as well as a bit of blue and purple - a nod to the
traditional winter berries. We’ve expanded in the
direction of “Innovation for Growth”. The key piece is
a super-lightweight coat with a natural down filling.
Dynamic Blue, another line of ours, is distinguished by
a mixture of wool and stretch fabric with regimental
patterns, while our men’s suits feature large Prince of
Wales checks in tartan-red.
Tombolini mainly deals in men’s clothes, but you also
create women’s collections. Could you tell us more
about these?
Our women’s line reflects the same philosophy. We
pay special attention to research in materials, take
care of every detail, and come up with timeless pieces,
which are also on trend. Our jackets and trouser suits
have a certain “architecture” about them, and they
tailor themselves to your shape. We find inspiration
in true women, who are sensual and keep up with the
times. They appreciate the refined style and quality
of Italian made products, care about the details, and
never go unnoticed.
You recently debuted with the Zero Gravity perfume
for men. Are there any other fragrances coming?
The Zero Gravity fragrance has a lot to do with
Eugenio Tombolini’s native home and with the brand’s
own history, which is 50 years long. Coming up with
this eau de toilette was a way to remind our customers
once again of the company’s background, of the
elegance and nobility that have always been the
hallmark of our collections. This fragrance was a real
success in the market, so we plan to launch another,
which will be just as modern and light.
You have launched a whole set of monobrand
boutiques all over the world in the recent years. How
do you plan to further expand your network?
We intend to bring our total to 50 monobrand
boutiques within the next two years. Last year, we
launched new shops in Berlin, Astana and Beirut.
Now we’re going to focus on the markets of North
America, the Middle East and Russia. We intend to
come to the key cities in those regions, and we’re
currently looking for partners in those areas.
What do social media and e-commerce mean for
your business?
It is very important for us to keep abreast of the
times, so Instagram and Facebook are crucial for
us. We run pages on these sites, and they allow us
to reach our customers anywhere in the world. As
for e-commerce, we’re currently in cooperation with
several major online boutiques, but we’re looking to
launch our own e-commerce platform very soon to
directly interact with our customers.
TOMBOLINI SS17
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BUYER CAUGHT UP WITH GALINA KRAVCHENKO, MERCHANDISING DIRECTOR AT THE FASHION
CONSULTING GROUP AND HEAD OF THE REPRESENTATIVE OFFICE OF THE INTERNATIONAL TREND
FORECASTING AGENCY FCG/FASHIONSNOOPS.COM,TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE WOMENSWEAR
STAPLES FOR AW 2017/18
TREND FORECASTING
THE COAT
Coats, dusters and robes – all
maxi – are essentials for the
upcoming season.
THE BOMBER
Decorative elements and metallic
fabrics add a glamorous touch to bomber jackets.
Autumn/winter 17/18
PHOTO: courtesy of FCG/fashionsnoops.com
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THE MIDI DRESS
Midi dresses channel a distinctly feminine feel for
women\'s wardrobes. AW 2017/18 sees plenty to
choose from, from velvet garments and items
in metallic tones to floral pieces.
THE PUSSY-BOW BLOUSE
A bow blouse puts a roman-
tic spin on any style, whether
you prefer casual denim or
stick to something formal
and classic.
THE TURTLENECK
Turtleneck sweaters and jumpers will be the most sought-after knitwear items in cold countries:
they’re in (again), and they come in all shapes and sizes.
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THE OVERSIZED KNIT
Oversized sweaters aren’t just
about warmth. With an abun-
dance of designs, stitches, and
adornments like sequins and
embroidery, they could easily
become the feature piece of the
AW look.
THE PLEATED SKIRT
Another trend that evokes femininity: pleated skirts are a must-have for AW 2017/18 so buyers
should take note. Knife pleats, accordion pleats, box pleats – there’s plenty to choose from.
THE SWEATSHIRT
The popularity of the athleisure style has made the jersey sweatshirt
a go-to item for all fans of cut-and-sew knitwear.
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THE MIDI SKIRT
Cherchez la femme with the length of the season:
the midi is the style to look for in AW 2017/18.
Look out for skirts of all textures and styles for
all occasions.
THE BAGGY TROUSERS
Clean-cut and austere, with a classic feel: this is the feel for baggy trousers
in AW 2017/18. Designers have made them high-waisted and chosen rich
hues, particularly camel.
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THE SNEAKER
Athleisure enthusiasts rejoice:
sneakers are kicking out classic
shoes and boots and AW 17/18
offers models to satisfy every taste.
THE SHOE
Elegantly shaped and high-heeled: no wonder many women have a fetish for shoes.
Materials and colours are what matter in AW 17/18.
THE ANKLE BOOT
What makes ankle boots fashion-forward in AW 17/18? Perfect fit, supreme comfort and mid heels.
They’ll walk right off the catwalk and into your heart.
THE BOOT
Thigh-high
boots are still in
vogue, but as
midi skirts make
a comeback we’ll
see more classic
models stopping
just under the
knee.
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fieramilanocity hall 3/4
Photo: Gautier Pellegrin – Styling: Luca Termine – Make up and hair: Cassandra Frua de Angeli – Creative idea: Matteo Antonielli – Coordination: Elena Rizzo – Layout: PaperPlane Factory
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WHAT BUYERS THINK
WE GATHERED A GROUP OF BUYERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD – FROM GERMANY TO
CANADA – TO GRILL THEM ON WHICH AW 2017/18 COLLECTIONS THEY ARE DYING TO SEE, AS
WELL AS DISCOVERING THEIR ABSOLUTE BESTSELLERS
Autumn/winter 17/18
WHAT FASHION WEEKS
ARE YOU PLANNING TO
ATTEND THIS SEASON?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair,
Maastricht (Netherlands):
We will be attending Fashion
Week in Paris where we will
be at the presentations of
OAMC, Dries van Noten,
Comme des Garçons, AMI
and Paul Smith. We would
like also to visit MAN and
Tranoï while we’re there.
Nicole Mohrmann,
nicolemohrmann.com,
Munich (Germany): We’re
going to Paris, Milan and NY.
Tricia Kuo, Then and Now
shop, London (UK): I\'m only
attending London Fashion
Week in person this year, but
I will also follow the latest
news for all other fashion
weeks.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter
Concept Store, Shanghai
(China): In Europe this
season we are only going
to Paris. We have our own
in-house brand Rolling
Acid which is presenting
its AW17 collection during
Paris Fashion Week, which
is why we’re focusing all
our attention on Paris.
After Europe we will be at
Shanghai Fashion Week
and Tbilisi Fashion Week
in early and mid April
respectively.
Alter Style
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Wendy Bannerman, North
42, Toronto (Canada): Milan
and Paris fashion weeks.
Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): I will focus
on Paris fashion week and
maybe take in Copenhagen’s
as well. It\'s a great way to
visit all of our brands and
partners. The trips aren\'t just
for buying. It\'s great to catch
up with all the brands, grab
dinner together and have
a few drinks. These cities
are full of fashion-minded
people which I find so
inspiring.
WHICH FASHION SHOWS
AND COLLECTIONS AW
2017/18 CAN’T YOU WAIT
TO SEE AND WHY?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair,
Maastricht (Netherlands):
We are dying to see what
Francesco Risso will show
at the first creative change
Marni has ever seen. OAMC
is gradually making a name
for itself, and will be showing
their AW17 collection on
the runway for the first
time. Always heavy with
inspirational story-driven
collections, we are excited
to see what they will bring
this time. Then we always
love the extravagance of
Dries van Noten catwalk
silhouettes. Apart from
the brands we carry in
store ourselves, we are
excited about a streetwear
explosion from Raf Simons
and Balenciaga. I’m also
interested to see if Junya
Watanabe will make a
180-degree turn again...
Joanna Davies,
Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow
(UK): DVF now that Jonathan
Saunders is at the helm,
always love Preen, Topshop
Unique, House of Holland,
Céline, Stella McCartney.
Nicole Mohrmann,
nicolemohrmann.com,
Munich (Germany): Vivetta
is my favourite collection.
It\'s always a very unique
collection with lovely details
and its own story –definitely
a leader, not a follower,
when it comes to fashion
trends!
Tricia Kuo, Then and Now
shop, London (UK): Jeremy
Scott, House of Holland
and Moschino – I personally
like the fun, excitement
and unpredictability these
brands bring each season.
Chanel – always brings the
biggest influences to both
haute couture and the high
street. Alexander Wang
and 3.1 Phillip Lim – these
two, in my opinion, are the
major brands leading sports
trends.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter
Concept Store, Shanghai
(China): I’m awaiting with
particular anticipation Y/
PROJECT’s show. Glenn
Martens, the talented
designer behind the brand,
is full of imagination and
creativity. Another collection
that I am excited to see
is FACETASM presented
by Hiromichi. His work
represents both a remix of
sportswear and laces, and
a controlled punk aesthetic.
He was also shortlisted for
the LVMH prize. Another
LVMH award contestant
(and previous winner) is
Marques’Almeida. This label
is bound to present some
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great pieces and I can’t wait
to discover them too. I am
also excited about Paris-
based designer Esteban
Cortazar.
Wendy Bannerman, North
42, Toronto (Canada):
Dsquared2 – I love their
unlimited creativity.
Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): I always look
forward to seeing the new
collections from Our Legacy,
Norse Projects and A.P.C.,
because they form the basis
for our store’s collection.
One brand which has a
special place in my heart
is the Portuguese label La
Paz; they make beautiful
fishermen-inspired garments
which are all produced by
hand in Portugal. Last but
not least I\'m looking forward
seeing the collection from
Japanese label nanamica. It
focuses on technical gear
like Goretex trenchcoats,
woollen windbreakers and
Coolmax sweats. Every item
has a story to tell and is
designed with nifty features.
The whole collection is
based on layering so it looks
so nice together.
WHICH TRENDS FROM THE
PREVIOUS COLLECTIONS
DO YOU THINK WILL
SURVIVE IN THE UPCOMING
AW 2017 SEASON?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair,
Maastricht (Netherlands):
Oversized and destroyed
garments, text print,
embroidery, shearling,
androgynous.
Joanna Davies,
Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow
(UK): Denim, comfort,
texture, clashing prints,
Gucci-inspired prints,
oversized tailoring and luxe-
leisure.
Nicole Mohrmann,
Nicolemohrmann.com,
Munich (Germany):
Definitely all kinds of
patterns influenced by the
seventies!
Tricia Kuo, Then and now
shop, London (UK): Sports,
metallic colours, animal
prints, pleats, fun fur,
shearling, embroidery.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter
Concept Store, Shanghai
(China): Without a doubt
we’re going to see plenty
of sportswear again this
season. Oversized bombers,
sweatshirts and hoodies are
here to stay. We will also see
quite a few relaxed knits and
flared trousers. I also think it
will be a good time to suit up;
strong shoulder suit sets and
suit-style oversized blazers.
Wendy Bannerman, North 42,
Toronto (Canada): In footwear
the block heel as it can offer
elongation of the leg without
compromising your comfort or
balance. In ready-to-wear it’s
dresses dresses dresses!
Maxi, mini, architectural
shapes. The exaggerated
sleeve.
Hunting Ensemble
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Mohrmann Basics
Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): I think
we\'ll see a lot of technical
inspired items with a
minimalistic and functional
approach. Good solid gear
that will last. It\'s a strong
trend which (in my opinion)
is not bound to any season.
It\'s something that is
becoming very important
in the whole menswear
industry; and is bringing it to
a higher level.
WHAT ITEMS DO YOU
ALWAYS SELL WELL
INDEPENDENTLY OF
TRENDS?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair,
Maastricht (Netherlands):
Wardrobe staples like classic
coats and waterproofs, suits,
denim, parkas. Everything
navy, anthracite and black.
Joanna Davies,
Blackwhitedenim,
Wilmslow (UK): The
eternal classics: Denim,
tailored jackets, crisp
white shirts, silk camisoles,
lightweight cotton tees,
jumpsuits.
Nicole Mohrmann,
nicolemohrmann.com,
Munich (Germany): All kind
of accessories, especially
scarves.
Tricia Kuo, Then and Now
shop, London (UK): Black
clothes and bags are still our
bestselling items most of the
time.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter
Concept Store, Shanghai
(China): Basic pieces like
sweatshirts and jeans always
sell well regardless of
seasonal trends. Basic tees
and jerseys sell well too. If
we’re talking specifically
about the market we operate
in, China, pink items are
always in demand.
Wendy Bannerman, North
42, Toronto (Canada):
Figure-fitting shaped
dresses.
Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): Good, high-
quality accessories such as
bags, socks, leather goods
and sunglasses. Japanese
denim from A.P.C is also
something that we stock year
round and sell around the
globe.
WHAT ARE CUSTOMERS
IN YOUR COUNTRY
SEARCHING FOR TODAY
IN TERMS OF TRENDS,
QUALITY AND LOOK?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair,
Maastricht (Netherlands):
We tend to attract lots
of clients in the creative
industries. Sometimes not
very trend focused, but
always looking for quality,
authenticity, originality and
craftsmanship. Identity is
key!
Joanna Davies,
Blackwhitedenim, Wilmslow
(UK): Quality, great fit,
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longevity and something
that has a unique feel about
it. Customers want comfort,
versatility and style: more
than a one hit wonder!
Nicole Mohrmann,
nicolemohrmann.com,
Munich (Germany): I can’t
speak for the country, but as
for my customers, they are
looking for unusual brands,
designers and fashion
pieces. They want something
you can\'t find in every city
and all over the internet!
They’re getting back to a
more individual look.
Tricia Kuo, Then and Now
shop, London (UK): In
London, people are seeking
to push the boundaries and
experimenting with mix and
match to create the most
unique personalised look.
This includes vintage clothes,
streetwear, affordable
high street and haute
couture. People are not
afraid of expressing their
personalities by wearing
clothes that represent them
the best.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter
Concept Store, Shanghai
(China): With the
development of Shanghai
Fashion Week and the rise
of buyer boutiques in China,
customers are engaging
more and more with the
fashion industry and are
showing a strong interest.
They anticipate upcoming
trends and embrace modern
approaches to dressing as a
way to express themselves.
In this regard people in
Shanghai and wider China
tend to always look out for
trends. But regarding
quality, Chinese customers
still care strongly for the
traditional Chinese adage
‘thriftiness is a solid virtue’.
High quality designs
built to last will always
win over cheap, shoddy
workmanship, no matter
how great the design. As for
the look, China’s younger
generation from the 80s, 90s
and 00s prefer to express
more individualism and
uniqueness, whilst still
remaining sophisticated.
Wendy Bannerman,
North 42, Toronto (Canada):
A more sophisticated but
urban look.
3.1 Phillip Lim
F
acetasm
Vivetta
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Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): We see a
strong focus on well-made
garments which exude quality
and have a strong focus on
detail and fit. All our brands
are good examples of that.
Most of our customers make
an informed choice and do
not buy just a t-shirt or sweater,
but a unique item which will
last for seasons to come. Our
customer appreciates quality
but doesn\'t have to show that
his clothes are more expensive
than average. So no big logos,
but keeping it clean.
ARE THERE ANY PROMISING
DESIGNERS IN YOUR COUN-
TRY THAT INTERNATIONAL
BUYERS SHOULD KEEP AN
EYE ON?
Philippe Massen, Mayfair, Maas-
tricht (Netherlands): You should
definitely visit the Fashionclash
Festival in Maastricht. The inter-
disciplinary festival is attracting
good press and talent is discov-
ered there on a regular basis.
Joanna Davies, Blackwhiteden-
im, Wilmslow (UK): Rixo London
is certain to be a success. We
were the first stockist outside of
London and approached them
as we could see the potential.
They are just about to be
stocked on Net-A-Porter for the
first time. It\'s nice to know we got
there first!
Nicole Mohrmann, nicolemohr-
mann.com, Munich (Germany):
I think Antonia Zander is doing
a great job. She always designs
the nicest cashmere collections!
Tricia Kuo, Then and Now shop,
London (UK): Schrimps. I like the
design of this brand as it has the
fun elements of street styles in
London.
Sonja Long Xiao, Alter Concept
Store, Shanghai (China): I believe
Rolling Acid has a lot of potential and
buyers should definitely keep an eye
on it. Other brands that are definitely
worth noting are Chrisou By Dan,
Xander Zhou, and Shushu/Tong.
Joost van Dongen, Hunting
Ensemble, Hertogenbosch
(Netherlands): I came across a brand
called Separaet. It\'s still in the start-
up phase but they design beautiful
belts and leather goods such as
wallets and keychains. Everything is
made by hand in the Netherlands
and Europe. They plan to expand
with clothing as well.
Diane von
F
urstenberg
Dsquared2
Stella McCartney
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/\' I want to promote good designers and elevate them as their success will do the same for
my business in return.\'
We n d i K o l e t a r M a r t i n , K i c k P l e a t
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f K i c k P l e a t p r e s s o f f i c e
STRATEGIES
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INGIE CHALHOUB OPENED THE FIRST EVER CHANEL BOUTIQUE IN THE MIDDLE EAST IN 1983. SINCE
THEN SHE’S EXPERIENCED A METEORIC RISE AS HER FASHION EMPIRE, THE ETOILE GROUP HAS
EXPANDED TO OVER 80 LUXURY STORES IN THE REGION. IN 2005 SHE LAUNCHED ETOILE ‘LA BOUTIQUE’,
REVOLUTIONISING THE APPAREL INDUSTRY AND INTRODUCING A GALAXY OF THE LATEST FASHION
NAMES. A FEW YEARS LATER CHALHOUB STARTED HER OWN DEMI-COUTURE LINE, ‘INGIE PARIS’ WHICH
COMBINES FRENCH CRAFTSMANSHIP AND MIDDLE EASTERN GLAMOUR
THE STAR OF THE MIDDLE EAST
You feature a lot of new names in your stores. Why did you
initially choose to focus on emerging designers?
I definitely believe in the importance of focusing on emerging
designers because they are the future of the fashion industry.
I see so much talent around me and it makes me proud to
support it and watch it grow. Our customers and fashion
shoppers in general are looking for creations that are unique,
different and personal. Emerging designers are not only
bringing that to the table but also receiving considerable
international recognition for their efforts.
Being a pioneer of fashion-forward brands for your region,
has it ever been difficult for you to educate your clients on
new labels and on the latest trends?
Middle Eastern clients are very sophisticated, worldly and
cultured. They are jetsetters and fashionistas, travelling the
world not only to be inspired by international fashion but most
likely to influence it. In other words, they are either keenly
aware of the latest international trends or very likely to be the
trendsetters themselves! In addition to this, the reputation of
Etoile ‘La boutique’ has meant our loyal clients have always
been receptive to the new fashion labels and trends that our
various stores explore. We are very aware of our customers’
INTERVIEW: Michela Zio
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
INGIE CHALHOUB ETOILE ‘LA BOUTIQUE’
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needs and tastes and we tailor our collections to them. Each
Etoile ‘La boutique’ is unique to each city.
How have the your customers’ tastes changed in recent years?
With globalisation and the wide spread of digital and
e-commerce, customers are now exposed to international
trends and happenings as they take place anywhere in the
world. This also means that their tastes are now completely
international. Time and distance are no barrier now, which
means that customers are more demanding and more
sophisticated than ever. If you don’t have all the latest trends
and hottest brands available for them, they are now able to
order them from anywhere else in the world.
Why did you decide to start your own brand INGIE Paris?
I have always had fashion and creativity running in my veins. As
I ventured further into the luxury fashion business, I took the
next step of creating a few designs and actually producing
and showcasing them at Etoile ‘La boutique’. Based on great
feedback from my customers and commercial success, I started
introducing more and more looks into my collection under the
brand name of INGIE Paris. Now, INGIE Paris collections are
part of the Chambre Syndical de la Mode’s official calendar
and we have three boutiques, in Saudi Arabia, Abu Dhabi and
Kuwait as well as a collection within Le Bon Marché and Luisa
Via Roma.
How do you think the fashion industry will develop in the
Middle East in the near future?
Fashion is becoming international: accessible and individual at
the same time. I can definitely see that Middle Eastern fashion
is developing to international standards as customers become
more and more exposed to the global fashion scene. The
Middle Eastern woman also demands individuality and is always
looking for unique and one-of-a-kind items, and I don’t see that
changing in the near future.
What’s next for your business?
We continue to drive forward with international expansion but
our vision remains the same: to be the Middle Eastern leader in
luxury retail and creativity, for our brand partners, for our multi-
brand concept Etoile ‘La boutique’ and for our own luxury line
INGIE Paris.
INGIE PARIS
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HOW TECHNOLOGY
HAS CHANGED THE
FACE OF RETAIL
IN OUR TECHNOLOGICALAGE, BRICK-AND-MORTAR STORES ALLAROUND THE WORLD ARE STRUG-
GLING TO DELIVER THE FLAWLESS SHOPPING EXPERIENCE CUSTOMERS INCREASINGLY EXPECT.
STEVE GOLDBERG, PRESIDENT OF RETAIL CONSULTANCY FIRM THE GRAYSON COMPANY,WHOSE
CLIENT LIST INCLUDES TOMMY HILFIGER, COLE HAAN AND UGG AUSTRALIA, HAS SOME TRICKS UP
HIS SLEEVE.WE CAUGHT UP WITH HIM TO LEARN MORE
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Customers have less and less
time to shop. How should
luxury multibrand stores
adapt in terms of visual
merchandising, product
offering and back office
support?
Our advice is to make sure
that your visual presentation
is extremely clear and really
emphasises key products.
Don’t try to show too much
at once. Today less is more.
It is also incredibly important
to ensure that key items are
in stock. Customers become
very frustrated when they
spot items they love but
you can’t provide them in
their favourite colours and
in the right sizes. This seems
like such basic thing but it’s
become more important than
ever.
What can retailers do to
meet or even excel shoppers’
expectations? Private events,
pop-up shops maybe?
Initiatives like ‘clientelling’ are
great for establishing long-
term relationships with key
customers, especially when
the retailer has collected
data about their preferences
and likes. True one-to-one
customer relationships help
you to get to know your
customers better and offer
them something special that
goes beyond just shopping.
Private events are especially
important if they support
a social cause – a charity
fundraiser, or an event
organised in response to
some other issue which is
important to the community
or to your key customer
group. As for pop-up shops,
of course, they can create
excitement but they don’t
always have much of a lasting
impact. Moreover these
initiatives are expensive for a
store and can be distracting
for customers so they need
to be well thought out and
precisely targeted with your
business goals and your
clientele in mind.
How can small multibrand
stores create a functional
and effective omnichannel
strategy?
I think the key is the staff,
particularly for these sorts of
shops. Smaller stores need
staff who are really savvy
and aware of what’s on the
website before customers
visit. There needs to be a
perfect alignment between
the web content and what’s
in the store. Both need
equal care and attention. Of
course, building an effective
mobile strategy is extremely
important for every retailer
whether big or small. If
your website doesn’t have
a mobile-enabled design,
you’re going to lose out. All
your customers are on mobiles,
so you can’t ignore it.
Some shops are trying to
create a completely new
shopping experience using
technologies such as digital
mirrors, outfit suggestions
etc. Does this always add
more value to the customer
journey?
These things are very nice
to have and they certainly
appear attractive for the
customers. It makes the
clients’ experience more
interesting and impactful,
but these technologies also
have to provide a meaningful
experience for the customer.
Shopping technology has to
be a full investment, not only
of money but also of time.
You have to train your staff to
be totally comfortable with
these technologies if they
STEVE GOLDBERG
are to become really useful
to clients. Retailers who
are new to technology can
start with easier and less
complicated technologies
to see how their core
clients respond to a digital
experience: for example,
using iPads instead of a
traditional cash register.
This doesn’t work in every
type of environment, but it
can be a terrific experience.
What, in your opinion, is
the right balance between
live and digital shopping
experiences?
For the moment 90%
of retail sales are still
occurring in physical
stores, but the balance is
changing, and merchants
should be aware that these
changes are not going
to go away. They have to
work on both shopping
experiences: offline and
online. Store owners
should remember that the
presentation of products
in the store needs to be
expressed in the same
way digitally. Two different
identities will confuse
your customers. Clarity
and consistency is the
key. Your website should
hold up a mirror to your
brick-and-mortar identity,
in order to impart a strong
brand message and build
customer loyalty.
What do you think
the brick-and-mortar
multibrand stores of the
future will look like?
In the future (which, by
the way, is here today)
there will be more and
more sophisticated
technologies and ways for
the customer to shop. We
think there will be fewer
registers and more tablets,
less engagement with store
assistants and more digital
services. Right now you can
buy online and have your
purchase delivered in store,
and we will see more of that.
There will also be scenarios
where customers can request
and order things directly
in the store and have them
delivered to them before
they leave the store. In this
new retail environment
the most important thing
will be to train the staff
properly to guarantee the
system runs like clockwork.
Stores will increasingly
use digital beacons which
helps gather data and give
more information about the
customers coming in. And
just as the customer service
teams of the big mobile
phone companies know who
you are as soon as you call,
so too will shops. It might
feel intrusive at first, but it will
become normal quite quickly.
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How much is the e-commerce project
linked to the physical stores?
The website is its own entity but it’s
closely connected to the physical stores:
the designers, prices and products are
the same. It all cohesively represents the
Kick Pleat brand.
Were there any difficulties that you ran
into when building up the e-commerce
version of your store?
There are always challenges when it
comes to an e-commerce store, just
like any business. The website is a
different platform where a different skill
set is needed. I work continuously with
programmers, stylists, photographers
and models to make the visual aspects
work but the back-end specifics like
search engine optimisation offer
continually changing challenges where
there is always more to learn.
How do you continue to engage with
your original customers from the
physical stores and how do you attract
the new ones?
We have a very personal relationship
with our customers. We know their
names and their style and lead them
to the pieces that we know they’ll love.
Service is a top priority in my business.
Whether it’s a customer who has
shopped with us a while or someone just
walking in the door, we aim to deliver
“BE EARLY, DON’T BE LATE”
KICK PLEAT WAS BORN IN TEXAS AS A BRICK AND MORTAR STORE 13 YEARS AGO. NOW THE
BRAND HAS SHOPS IN AUSTIN AND HOUSTON AND A THRIVING WEBSITE WHICH WAS FIRST
LAUNCHED IN 2008. WE CAUGHT UP WITH THE OWNER, WENDI KOLETAR MARTIN, ABOUT HER
ONLINE STRATEGY AND THE IMPORTANCE OF STAYING UP TO DATE
INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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the very best service as this is what
brings people back (along with beautiful
garments). Attracting new customers is
always a consideration. I personally think
that people are attracted to beauty and
branding that is done well. Having all of
our social media, images and anything
that the public can see or experience,
maintain consistency with our branding
is very important. When a new customer
sees the brand the goal is that they
would want to know more. We take pride
in hosting great events in the store.
“Journal” is a section on your website
where you introduce new designers
to your customers. Is researching new
designers crucial for you and how do
you select them?
I always have my eye out for great new
designers. Finding great designers
early and growing together is key to
our concept. I research in all different
kinds of ways – magazines, blogs,
recommendations, searching the
market. I keep my eyes and ears open
and I always take the time to look when
someone sends me details of their line.
You never know, it may be something
great! With regards to Journal, I think
that a lot of our customers want to
know more about our designers and
find it interesting to hear about their
inspiration and processes. It’s not just
a shopping transaction. It’s a series
of personal relationships, from the
customer to Kick Pleat to the designer.
I want to promote good designers and
elevate them as their success will do the
same for my business in return.
B U Y E R
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How would you define your target
audience? Are you planning to expand
it and how?
My target audience is the woman who
independently dresses for herself. She
is well travelled, educated, and has her
own sense of style. She is looking for
timeless, superior, comfortable pieces.
She invests in her clothing, shoes,
and accessories as she wants to keep
her pieces forever. She is looking for
quality, not quantity. I am inspired by
my customers all the time. I just opened
a second location in Houston, Texas,
so we now have two physical locations
as well as our online platform. I am
always wondering how we can expand
our audience, it’s so hard to predict
what will work. Ultimately making sure
that your brand is always creating great
content and staying true to the ethos
of the brand is most important. People
are drawn to beauty and will be more
interested in your business for it.
Is there a best way to receive feedback
from customers?
I’ll take it anyway they want to give it to
us – email, phone, in person. Everyone
prefers something different and we
always want to learn and grow from
what our customers have to say. As
building personal relationships with
our customers is so important to us,
hearing feedback is always welcome.
What is the role of social networks
in your business and how, in your
opinion, are sites such as Facebook
and Instagram transforming fashion
retail? Do you like these changes?
I resisted these changes at first but
quickly discovered that that was a
mistake. A successful friend once told
me, “be early, don’t be late”, and that’s
great advice. There are so many ways
to get your brand out there now. The
challenge is making sure that your
brand continues to look consistent on
all of these different social channels.
You can’t just give fifty percent to any
of them as it’ll hurt your business. I
think that they’re transforming fashion
retail because people are so informed
and connected now. It’s a very good
thing.
B U Y E R
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MY TARGET AUDIENCE IS THE WOMAN WHO
INDEPENDENTLY DRESSES FOR HERSELF. SHE IS WELL
TRAVELLED, EDUCATED, AND HAS HER OWN SENSE
OF STYLE. SHE IS LOOKING FOR TIMELESS, SUPERIOR,
COMFORTABLE PIECES. SHE INVESTS IN HER CLOTHING,
SHOES, AND ACCESSORIES AS SHE WANTS TO KEEP
HER PIECES FOREVER. SHE IS LOOKING FOR QUALITY,
NOT QUANTITY. I AM INSPIRED BY MY CUSTOMERS ALL
THE TIME
How do you stay up-to-date in a market
that is constantly changing?
It is a never-ending process and there is
never a moment where you can say \'I\'m
done\' and stop. Not only is the market
constantly changing but the methods
that you have to use to stay on top of
the market are constantly changing too.
I concentrate more on keeping my
brand fresh and consistent. Doing what
we do well and staying very clear on what
that is.
What is your approach to your staff?
What are the essential skills you care
about?
I approach my staff openly and with
humor, I ask questions to get their
perspective and take it into consideration
when making decisions about the brand.
I have high standards for my staff. I
expect professionalism and for everyone
to do their job well. If that’s happening,
we have fun and laugh a lot. If not, an
honest conversation is had and hopefully
we all move on. The goal is that people
are inspired by working at Kick Pleat
and that we do great things together
for the good of both the brand and our
customers.
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GREAT OPPORTUNITIES
THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION LAUNCHED RUSSIA’S FIRST QUALITY MARK FOR FASHION RETAIL
STORES — THE BEST LUXURY STORES — IN 2016. NOW THE UNION PLANS TO CONTINUE SUP-
PORTING HIGH-END MULTIBRAND BOUTIQUES AS WELLAS GENERATING LUCRATIVE OPPOR-
TUNITIES FOR BUYERS IN ALL SEGMENTS OF THE MARKET.THE UNION’S PRESIDENT ELENA
BUGRANOVATALKS OVER THEIR PLANS AND DEVELOPMENTS
At the end of 2016 The Best Luxury Stores
Award ceremony was held in the Lotte Hotel
Moscow, accompanied by a professional
forum. Tell us more about these events.
They were, first of all, a celebration, both for
us and for all the buyers who came there
to attend workshops and receive the well-
deserved Best Luxury Stores Award. You
see, buyers usually stay behind the scenes.
Even though they are an important link in the
fashion supply chain, they are seldom given
any limelight. We have tried to help them
gain recognition and to establish a platform
where they can share their experiences and
love of their job with their colleagues, as well
as exchange ideas. Of course, to organise
it all was a tremendous task, but that is true
of any grand celebration. We invited both
Russian and overseas experts to give lectures,
organised a dinner party for 200 people and
ran an entertainment programme with star
performances, fashion shows and speeches
from Russia\'s leading buyers.
What will The Best Luxury Stores project see
in 2017?
Last year we awarded the best womenswear
stores, and this year we are going to expand
our scope and include buyers who deal in
menswear and children’s clothing. Our annual
Best Luxury Stores Awards ceremony, which
takes place in November, will encompass
all three segments, but for each one we are
going to publish a separate book entitled
‘Russia\'s Top 100 Fashion Boutiques’ listing the
best high-end stores.
How are you going to reach out to stores that
work in other segments?
The Best Luxury Stores forum was a success,
and using this experience we are going
to develop an educational and training
programme for buyers. In May there will be
workshops as part of the Kids’ Fashion Awards
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event for buyers working in the children\'s
clothes segment. Besides live lectures and
seminars we are going to start running
online courses which will make the project
available for buyers from any region. We
are also launching an updated version
of our website soon, where every union
member will have a personal account and
be able to access special content, training
courses and the market’s best offers.
The Russian Buyers Union collaborates
with the Via Del Buyer online platform.
How can buyers benefit from using it?
As the job of a buyer is becoming more
and more complex and diverse, Via Del
Buyer helps to make the buying process
simpler and easier. When I was looking
for new brands for my own boutiques and
ordering from them online it struck me
how much time and effort I could save by
using the internet and not having to travel
everywhere myself. We believe that the
future lies with technology. They won’t
replace brick-and-mortar stores but will
facilitate their development. It fashion
world is changing, there are new ways to
make your performance more efficient,
and we are happy to help Russian buyers
become more successful and productive.
EVEN THOUGH BUYERS ARE AN IMPORTANT LINK IN THE FASHION SUPPLY CHAIN, THEY ARE
SELDOM GIVEN ANY LIMELIGHT. WE HAVE TRIED TO HELP THEM GAIN RECOGNITION
AND TO ESTABLISH A PLATFORM WHERE THEY CAN SHARE EXPERIENCES WITH THEIR
COLLEAGUES, AS WELL AS EXCHANGE IDEAS
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STYLE BEFORE FASHION
A LOS ANGELES BASED E-COMMERCE PROJECT,THE DRESLYN GOES FAR BEYOND JUST FASHION,
ALSO OFFERING CLIENTS BEAUTY PRODUCTS, HOME DÉCOR PIECES AND GIFT IDEAS.WE ASKED THE
CEO AND FOUNDER OF THE ONLINE BOUTIQUE, BROOKE TAYLOR CORCIA, HOW SHE BUILT UP SUCH
A COMPLEX WEBSITE
Is this your first e-commerce website and
how it was born?
I was first introduced to e-commerce
in 2008 when, as the Senior Buyer for
Canadian retailer SSENSE, I launched and
developed the womenswear department
and fell in love with online retail. With
the rise of social media, I noticed a shift
in consumer behaviour and saw an
opportunity in the market for a focused,
specialty store model with a west-coast
perspective. In 2013 The Dreslyn was born
and the rest is history.
The Dreslyn is a lifestyle project with many
sections. What were the main difficulties
you ran into when building it up?
The growth into multiple departments
was always planned into our trajectory.
Every day brings new challenges, so
being flexible and finding opportunity
in adversity is critical. Communicating,
listening, and leaning on one another is
what defines our success.
Tell us about your target audience.
Our core audience consists of confident,
tech-savvy, urban, educated women aged
25-45, who have a strong sense of self and
appreciate timeless, quality goods.
How do you engage with the customers who
already know you and how do you attract
new ones?
We host local pop-up warehouse sales
biannually at the end of each season, as well
as select press events as projects dictate, but
we don’t generally invest in offline events.
All the initiatives we host are attended by
clients who interact with our brand through
our online platform first. We capture most
our traffic organically but we do invest in
online advertising, social media, press and
newsletter marketing to attract new users.
How strategic are channels such as
newsletter and social networks for you?
Marketing channels like newsletters and
social media are extremely important for our
business and for furthering the conversation
between our brand and our clients.The
Dreslyn emerged as a complement to
evolving social media and shopping
behaviour online, so we use these tools to
capture our audience’s needs.
Which is the best way for you to receive
feedback from your customers?
Personally! Our foundation is built upon
having an engaging dialogue with our
audience. We love to hear from clients by
phone, email and social media.
You also communicate with your clients
through the stars.Tell us more about the
INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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unusual section, \'Horoscopes\', where you
also suggest a look for each astrological
sign.
The AstroTwins are the official astrologers of
ELLE.com and Elle Australia. We collaborate
with them to deliver credible, professional
readings each month. It\'s a way to entertain
our audience and deliver content that is
beyond the typical shopping channels.They
also have features in the New York Times
Sunday Styles section, People Magazine and
Vogue.
Is research of new designers and brands
crucial for you and how do you select them?
Supporting new talent is crucial for our
business, both as a point of differentiation
and a way to excite and inspire our audience.
Our site presents a focused point-of-view so
I look for lines that can sit within The Dreslyn
aesthetic while offering a new, unique
perspective that adds value to our offering.
What is your approach to building your
team?
My approach is to find talented individuals
who will contribute to a positive culture first
and foremost. Skills are teachable, talent;
personality and humility are not. I look for
people with passion and initiative who can
lead and problem-solve on a high level.
We run the office with a significant amount
of trust and freedom and this requires
individuals who are comfortable making
decisions, and taking responsibility for
successes and failures equally.
Do you see growth
in orders from mobile
users? How do you
think customer
behaviour will change
in the near future?
We’ve seen an incredible increase in mobile
traffic and conversions, and design the
site with mobile in mind. I think we will see
continued growth in mobile shopping
as these devices become even more
ubiquitous.
MY APPROACH IS TO FIND
TALENTED INDIVIDUALS WHO
WILL CONTRIBUTE TO A POSITIVE
CULTURE FIRST AND FOREMOST.
SKILLS ARE TEACHABLE; TALENT,
PERSONALITY AND HUMILITY
ARE NOT
Our foundation is built upon having an engaging dialogue with our audience.
We love to hear from clients by phone, email and social.
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/BUY FOR YOUR SHOP AS EASY
AS FOR YOURSELF
F I N D I N G A M A Z I N G N E W B R A N D S F R O M A R O U N D
T H E W O R L D A N D P L A C I N G O R D E R S W I T H J U S T F E W
C L I C K S B R I N G S B U Y I N G T O A W H O L E N E W L E V E L .
H E R E I S H O W T O G E T S TA R T E D
1 . R e g i s t e r a t w w w . v i a d e l b u y e r . c o m
3 . S e n d c o n n e c t i o n r e q u e s t s
t o b r a n d s y o u c h o o s e
T i p : D o y o u
h a v e a n y
q u e s t i o n ?
T e x t t h e
b r a n d
a b o u t i t !
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/4 . P l a c e o r d e r s o f
w h a t y o u l o v e !
2 . B r o w s e t h e J o u r n a l t o
s t u d y t r e n d s a n d d i s c o v e r
n e w d e s i g n e r s
T i p : F i n d
t h e m o s t
r e l e v a n t
a r t i c l e s f o r
b u y e r s i n
t h e W e e k l y
D i g e s t
T i p : F i n d
c o n d i t i o n s ,
d e l i v e r y d a t e s
a n d o t h e r
d e t a i l s
o n t h e s i d e
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In today\'s boutiques, LED
lights are supplanting
metal halide lamps. Whilst
LEDs ensure a high colour
rendering index (CRI) and
a powerful flow of light,
they also emit infrared and
ultraviolet rays. This can
have an adverse impact on
leather and fur items as well
as on fabrics of a delicate
texture, such as silk or velvet.
Leather footwear can fade
and dry, and bright-coloured
fabrics may have their shades
altered. Thankfully today’s
LED technologies have
minimized this influence.
LED lights are minimalistic,
environmentally-friendly, and
powerful. They have a high
colour rendering index and
energy efficiency. However,
not all LEDs are up to the
requirements of the premium
retailer. There are a few
parameters that need special
attention:
ON THE LIGHT SIDE
THERE ARE MANY ELEMENTS THAT CONTRIBUTE TO THE BEST POSSIBLE DISPLAY OF THE GOODS IN
A STORE, AND ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT ROLES IS PLAYED BY THE ILLUMINATION. EXPERT ON
THE SUBJECT, FOUNDER OF NLT COMPANY MIKHAIL GUSMANOV, GIVES A FULL TECHNICAL GUIDE TO
CHOOSING THE BEST LIGHTING OPTIONS FOR HIGHLIGHTING FASHION GOODS
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B U Y E R
THE MOST IMPORTANTTHING IS TO CREATE THE COSY
ATMOSPHERE OF A HOME IN A BOUTIQUE.THIS IS
ACHIEVED BY USING SOFT LIGHTING AND ENSURES
THAT NOTHING WILL DISTRACTTHE CUSTOMER AND
THEY CAN FULLY CONCENTRATE ON THE PRODUCTS.
MANY LUXURY SHOPS EMPLOY LIGHTING OF INDIVIDU-
AL ITEMS,WHICH MEANS HAVING A SEP-
ARATE LIGHT FOR EACH BAG AND EACH
PAIR OF FOOTWEAR
• To ensure high illumination
intensity, a lamp must have
a luminous flux of at least
3,500–4,000 lm/W.
• To avoid altering the
colours of clothes, the colour
rendering index (CRI) must be
over 90. CRI standards of 80+
are in wide use in the mass
market and middle segments.
• The luminous flux
distribution angle must be
selected wisely. If the shop
has very high ceilings, the
angle must be kept below
50–60 degrees. If the light
is installed at a height of
3–3.5 metres, angles of
38–40 degrees are best. To
ensure spot lighting and high
illumination intensity in shop
windows, narrower angles,
such as 24 degrees, can be
used.
• Avoid using cold light
for illumination in shops of
clothes and footwear. It may
seem brighter but it also
alters the perception of colors
and quickly tires the eyes. If
the collections in the shop
feature bright coloured prints,
use warm white light of color
temperatures of 2,700–3,000
K. If a range features furs,
as well as black, white, blue,
grey, or dark grey shades,
white light (4,000 K) is best, as
it does not alter any colours.
• The lighting levels in
premium segment shops
must be 1,200 to 1,500 lx
(lux), and in mass market and
middle segment shops, up to
800 lux on the sales surface,
1.6–1.7 m above the floor.
This is the level for a customer
of average height to see
items in front of them. The
higher the class of a shop is,
the higher the lights should
be positioned.
The most important thing
is to create the cosy
atmosphere of a home in a
boutique. This is achieved
by using soft lighting and
ensures that nothing will
distract the customer and they
can fully concentrate on the
products. Many luxury shops
employ lighting of individual
items, which means having a
separate light for each bag
and each pair of footwear.
Today, LED lights can be
easily mounted into the
ceiling, walls, and built-in
recesses, so that they occupy
minimum space and become
inconspicuous within the
design of the shop. Today’s
track lightings are also easy
to make invisible by installing
them onto a busbar hidden
in the suspended ceiling or
in special recesses in the
ceiling. An LED strip, used to
illuminate items on shelves,
can also be hidden from
view. It must have a power
of at least 10 W per linear
metre. A power of 4–5 W is
just not enough for the lamps
to supply the luminous flux
needed. Most strips offered
in today’s market have a
low colour rendering index.
While general illumination
in boutiques has a high
CRI standard of 90 and
above, LED strips usually
have a CRI of 60–70. This,
in practice, causes footwear
and accessories to have one
colour when on the shelf, and
a completely different one in
the room.
The correct illumination of
fitting rooms is also important.
This is can be ensured by
using sources of lights
installed above, such as
downlights or wall-mounted
sconces. In many cases, such
lights don’t supply enough
light and alter the overall look,
which can lead the customer
to make a wrong decision. It’s
best, therefore, to use LED
lamps in fitting rooms as well.
To avoid errors when po-
sitioning and designing
illumination, buyers can
employ a specialist company
with relevant experience.
These companies can use 3D
modelling systems to plan the
illumination levels in a sales
area, optimize the number
of lights and determine their
specifications.
MIKHAIL GUSMANOV
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RICCARDO GRASSI
RICCARDO GRASSI,WHO OWNS ONE OF ITALY\'S FINEST CONCEPT SHOWROOMS,TELLS BUYER
ABOUT HIS FIRST STEPS INTO THE FASHION WORLD AND THE INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS THAT
FOLLOWED
How did you start your career?
It all began 35 years ago in Florence. I
would take a big bag and shuttle between
Aosta and Palermo to offer my clothes
directly to the stores.
And what was next?
I had success in Florence where I worked in
Studio Zeta with Mauro Galligari, and then
moved to a temporary showroom in Milan.
What made you unique?
In a time when every store sold diffusion
lines of major brands I focused on young
designers. In Italy in the second half of the
1980s there were 300 high-end stores at
most. We arranged a distribution system
with them and began launching new
names. In the early 90s we settled in Milan
and secured our international image as a
showroom offering rare products.
For example?
We represented Martin Margiela.
You made this big leap then, at the same
time that you moved to the former storage
building at Via Friuli. What new names did
you bring onto the market from there?
Neil Barrett, Kathrine Hamnett, Antonio
Marras, Albino and many more.
Five years later your career took another
turn. Tell us more about that.
I left Studio Zeta to focus on my own show-
room. I built contacts with the best retailers
and set up several services, like e-land for
online sales.
RICCARDO GRASSI
INTERVIEW: Michela Zio
T H E FA S H I O N
VA N G U A R D
THE OWNERS OF FOUR MAJOR
EUROPEAN SHOWROOMS DISCUSS
THEIR KEY BRANDS AND MARKETS,
RECALL HOW IT ALL STARTED, AND
SHARE THEIR THOUGHTS FOR THE
FUTURE
B U Y E R
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Your showroom in the Porta Vittoria district
in Milan covers 5000m2 and you also have
a Paris division. How many brands do you
represent?
We work with brands from A to W, from Adam
Lippes to Walk of shame. Overall, there are
about 30 brands.
Who are the most renowned designers that
your showroom helped to launch?
Marco de Vincenzo, Fausto Puglisi and Giam-
battista Valli.
Where do you search for young
talent?
My core staff is only 35 people, which
becomes 120 during the selling sea-
son. Twenty-five of them are constantly
travelling around the world to find out
what the retailers are seeking and tap
the mood of the market. I’m lucky to
continue to grow, and work at wonder-
ful projects and launch superb brands
like Vilshenko from Russia or Goen J
from Korea.
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RAINBOWWAVE
MARIA LEMOS LAUNCHED RAINBOWWAVE IN 2002.TODAYTHE LONDON-BASED MULTIBRAND
SHOWROOM HAS BRANCHES IN PARIS AND NEW YORK,AND A PR DIVISION THAT HELPS BRANDS
TO DEVELOP AN EFFICIENT PROMOTION STRATEGY
You’ve introduced a lot of names onto
the international market. Who are your
clients?
Since launching Rainbowwave we have
represented many designers, some of
whom are now highly successful and
renowned, like J.W.Anderson, or Peter Pi-
lotto. It’s a pleasure to watch these brands
growing and bring their performance to
a new level every season. We began col-
laborating with American designers when
we opened a showroom in New York two
and a half years ago. We’re working with
Gabriela Hearst, a very promising young
label, and Rosetta Grey. We brought both
to the attention of the international fashion
circles. We also represent Re/Done, one of
the most fascinating contemporary denim
labels. But you can never tell how things
will turn out. J.W.Anderson was an instant
success, it simply rocketed. Now we are
keeping an eye on Koché, another client
of ours. Its founder Christelle Koche makes
mind-blowing street couture pieces, and
she’s also the Artistic Director of Maison
D\'art Lemarié.
Where should one look for bright young
talents?
In Russia, Eastern Europe in general, and in
Asia. But you can find them anywhere. The
fashion world has dropped the stereotype
that the best designers come from and
study in the UK, the USA or Italy.
Speaking about the UK — there are a lot of
prominent talents there. Which are your
personal favourites?
Peter Pilotto! And J.W.Anderson, Simone
Rocha, Erdem, and Roksanda who are
all flourishing. Then there is Michael
Halpern, he’s a young designer, but he
is already much talked of. I think he has
great potential. One of my personal fa-
vourites is Toogood. Its founder worked
in design before she started the label,
so she mixes design and fashion and her
view of fashion is very fresh. I think that
we’re living in a world where art, fashion
and design are parts of a whole, and
brands that can switch between these are
particularly interesting.
What are your criteria for selecting a
brand?
In the beginning, we simply had to love the
products to take on a designer, but today
we consider many factors. Do they have
enough money to make collections? Be-
cause it is an expensive thing. Is the com-
INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova
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MARIA LEMOS
pany well-organised? Does it know how
to do business? Manufacturing is a crucial
aspect: It must run smoothly for us to
take on a brand. We work with designers
whose collections are already on the mar-
ket, but it’s not a mandatory requirement.
We have labels — Ancient Greek Sandals,
or Gabriela Hearst — that we picked and
built onto the market from scratch.
How do you manage to cater to the
tastes of clients from different countries?
I used to think of the American market
as not so different from ours, since we
all speak English, but when we were
preparing to open our New York show-
room, there turned out to be a whole
lot of differences. The US buyers are
much more conservative when selecting
designers. In Europe, each country also
has its own ways. For example, you do
buying differently in France than in the UK.
Even in our own country, the way things
are done in London is very different from
the rest of England. That’s why we have
a client relationship manager for every
area. These executives are responsible for
different countries, where they regularly
go and conduct business. So, when we
start working with a new brand they can
either say, yes, it will sell well in my part of
the world, or no, it won\'t do very well.
What countries have the most active
buyers?
Online shops are the most active, and
with respect to offline retailers, we have
been working steadily with buyers from
Korea, Japan, China, and Eastern Eu-
rope. Australian buyers are increasingly
eager to work with us, and we are also
monitoring India. Indian buyers haven’t
shown much interest yet, but it’s likely to
happen very soon. The situation is more
complicated in the USA. There are many
brands offering similar collections and
the sales start very early, which is not
favourable for stores there.
What are your plans for the business?
We position ourselves as a show-room
boutique that stocks an eclectic mix of
products, dealing in jewellery, menswear,
and contemporary fashion, to name a few.
We have recently opened our branch in New
York, so we are still beginners on the Amer-
ican market and our primary goal is to get
ourselves established there, and only then
start growing.
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INTERVIEW: Michela Zio
STUDIO ZETA
MAURO GALLIGARI STARTED HIS CAREER IN FASHION IN FLORENCE. LITTLE DID
HE KNOW THIS CAREER WOULD LEAD HIM TO FOUND STUDIO ZETA, ONE OF THE
EUROPE’S MOST INFLUENTIAL SHOWROOMS
Why Florence? What were the first
brands you worked with?
Florence is my home town. Back then,
the Pitti Trend exhibition was held there.
It was a real hothouse for talented
emerging designers. I presented their
work to my first clients — Luisa Via Roma,
Bonvicini from Montecatini, Sugar from
Arezzo. I would approach each of them
with collections from Fabrizio del Carlo,
Emilio Cavallini and Roberto Tirelli.
These are the legends of Italian fashion.
When did you decide it was time to
move to Milan?
In 1988. We had our small headquarters
in Via Spartaco, then moved to Via Friuli
64, and in 1997 settled where we are
now. Our showroom covers 3500m2 and
offers 20 menswear collections and
40 womenswear collections, as well as
accessories.
How has your job changed over the
years?
Things were much simpler 30 years ago.
All you had to do was to know how to
represent your clients and to have an
eye for beautiful things. Now I must
be an all-round professional, an expert
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on materials and manufacturing, and a
sophisticated retailer.
The Studio Zeta showroom has always
been renowned for its unique selection
of brands and its penchant for young
designers. How do you hunt for new
names?
You must be able to recognise true talent
when you see it, and be able to identify
exactly what different markets will want.
You must always be ready to offer them
something new. So we are constantly
on the lookout for the next big thing,
visiting international exhibitions,
particularly large textile trade shows.
Studio Zeta offers its clients a special
service that starts with fabrics. How
does that work?
When we develop trends for upcoming
seasons we first choose the hottest
colours and then we move on to
materials, shapes and styling. We pass
all of this information on to our brands’
designers, so they can tailor their new
collections to our clientele’s tastes much
more effectively.
Which markets show the greatest
demand for your products?
Our major market is Russia and most of
the former Soviet states, then Southeast
Asia, China, Italy, the Middle East,
Europe, Japan and the USA. In total we
have more than 1300 clients all over the
world.
What prominent names have you
introduced to the market?
Martin Margiela, Antonio Marras,
Giambattista Valli and MSGM. These are
already established brands. As for today,
I think Daizy Shely, Christian Pellizzari,
Stefano De Lellis and Daniele Carlotta
are the ones to watch.
MAURO GALLIGARI
YOU MUST BE ABLE TO RECOGNISE
TRUE TALENT WHEN YOU SEE IT,AND
BE ABLE TO IDENTIFY EXACTLY WHAT
DIFFERENT MARKETS WILL WANT.
YOU MUSTALWAYS BE READYTO OF-
FER THEM SOMETHING NEW. SO WE
ARE CONSTANTLY ON THE LOOKOUT
FOR THE NEXT BIG THING,VISIT-
ING INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITIONS,
PARTICULARLY LARGE TEXTILE TRADE
SHOWS
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INTERVIEW: Alisa Nesterova
THE ALPHABET
THE ALPHABET, FOUNDED BY ELLEN LEUNG, SPECIALISES IN FINDING AND
FOSTERING INDEPENDENT BRANDS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. ITS CLIENTS
INCLUDE SINGLE BOUTIQUES AS WELL AS LARGER CHAINS AND DEPARTMENT
STORES
Your company has offices in London and
Paris. How are the different functions
distributed?
Our London office mainly deals with the
routine matters necessary to operate
the company, while the one in Paris
has the showroom. We believe that
Paris is the right city for the showroom
as most buyers still go there to make
their purchases. The French capital
hosts numerous fashion exhibitions, so
it’s a strategically important location
for us. We also exhibit a section of our
collections in London, as part of the
Designer Showrooms project that takes
place during the fashion week there.
Where and how do you select brands for
your showroom?
We look for them everywhere. There
are no set locations. All we need is for
a brand to interest us, whether it be
with its quality, colour range or some
particularities. We do not rely on any
single style as we strive to offer diverse
collections to buyers. We travel the
world to find our collections. We might
get a recommendation of a promising
brand, but we follow our feelings. If we
believe in a designer, then they’re a
good fit for us.
What brands would you recommend
buyers to pay attention to?
Remain Studio, Zayan The Label,
Vatanika. There is also Steven Tai, a very
interesting Canadian designer residing
in London.
How is the buyer’s role changing in the
fashion retail market?
The market is certainly changing; some
brands sell their collections to end
clients directly, while others set up a
see-and-buy express ordering system.
The buyer’s role is still key though. Every
collection is huge, and it’s the buyer who
selects the items for their market, the
ELLEN LEUNG
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ones that their customers will appreciate.
The buyer knows their tastes and
preferences very well and can, therefore,
pick out the most successful models from
the variety.
Which markets are the most promising
these days?
For us, I would say the Asian markets.
They’re still enjoying the economic
boom, and the local customers are more
open to new names than, say, European
buyers, who are much more cautious
when selecting brands.
In which countries are there promising
designers to be found today?
In Asia, as well. Particularly in Shanghai
and Seoul where the fashion weeks
are producing increasing numbers of
interesting designers every season. You
could also go to Georgia: their brands
have quite a distinctive style that is very
different from everything else in the
market.
Which countries bring you the buyers
that you cooperate most with?
Our customers come from everywhere. I
couldn’t pick out any single region. Every
time we begin working together with a
new brand, we think about how well it
will sell in all the countries we work with.
Do you follow current trends? What
will be in fashion this coming autumn?
I think that designers will still be keen
on anti-fashion, the 90s style and
minimalism. It would be great to see
what Raf Simons’ collection for Calvin
Klein will look like. As to our own
showroom, we do not always watch
trends, far from it. Our customers want
something unique and rare, so the first
thing we look at in a collection is how
distinctive it is.
What are your plans for the future?
We mostly work with brands that
produce ready-to-wear clothes. We’d
like to offer more accessories, like
jewellery, bags, and footwear, so we’re
looking to expand in that direction.
THE MARKET IS CERTAINLY CHANGING; SOME BRANDS SELLTHEIR
COLLECTIONS TO END CLIENTS DIRECTLY,WHILE OTHERS SET UP A
SEE-AND-BUY EXPRESS ORDERING SYSTEM.THE BUYER’S ROLE IS STILL
KEYTHOUGH. EVERY COLLECTION IS HUGE,AND IT’S THE BUYER WHO
SELECTS THE ITEMS FOR THEIR MARKET,THE ONES THATTHEIR CUS-
TOMERS WILLAPPRECIATE
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/— ’ R U S S I A ’ S T O P 1 0 0 F A S H I O N B O U T I Q U E S ’ B O O K
P R E S E N T A T I O N
— B U S I N E S S F O R U M F O R B U Y E R S W I T H A C C L A I M E D
I N D U S T R Y E X P E R T S
— C E R E M O N Y A W A R D I N G T H E B E S T L U X U R Y S T O R E S
— G A L A D I N N E R W I T H P E R F O R M A N C E S B Y F A M O U S S I N G E R S
— F A S H I O N S H O W S F E A T U R I N G R U S S I A N A N D I N T E R N A T I O N A L
B R A N D S
M O S C O W N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 7
I N F O @ B U Y E R S U N I O N . R U
M O S C O W , 15 R O C H D E L S K A Y A S T R . , B L D . 41
W W W . B U Y E R S U N I O N . R U
T H E B E S T L U X U R Y S T O R E S A W A R D S
W O M E N , M E N & K I D S
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/EVENTS
\' Denmark is positioning itself as a global leader for sustainable development in
the fashion industr y. O ver the past few years, we’ve wanted to let fashion week
reflec t this focus on sustainabilit y and have highlighted "green" designers suc h as
Fonnesbec h, Barbara í Gongini and Trine Lindegaard in our roster.\'
C a m i l l a F r a n k , C o p e n h a g e n F a s h i o n We e k
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f C o p e n h a g e n F a s h i o n W e e k p r e s s o f f i c e
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116
GREEN IS THE NEW BLACK
WE CAUGHT UP WITH CAMILLA FRANK,WHO WAS JUSTAPPOINTED AS THE NEW CEO OF COPENHAGEN
FASHION WEEK,TO CHATABOUTTHE NEW NORDIC NAMES IN FASHION, ECOLOGICAL DESIGN AND THE
FUTURE PLANS OF THE GREENEST FASHION EVENT IN EUROPE
Copenhagen Fashion Week is often seen as a platform for
fresh young talent. Who are the emerging Danish and Nordic
designers to watch today?
We take great pride in having created a platform that allows young,
talented designers to showcase their designs and share their
visions alongside more established fashion labels. Some of the
most recent design talents who have showcased at Copenhagen
Fashion Week include Freya Dalsjø, Mark Kenly Domino Tan, Saks
Potts, Asger Juel Larsen, Tonsure, Tatiana Andersen Camre and
many more. Make sure to look out for this year’s winner of the
DANSK Design Talent award, Cecilie Bahnsen, who will present her
collection this upcoming fashion week.
Copenhagen is a pioneer of green fashion, particularly as host
to the world’s largest event on sustainability in fashion, the
Copenhagen Fashion Summit. Copenhagen Fashion Week also
boasts an eco-friendly agenda. Tell us more about initiatives such
as The Green Walk.
Denmark is positioning itself as a global leader for sustainable
development in the fashion industry. Over the past few years,
we’ve wanted to let fashion week reflect this focus on sustainability
and have highlighted ‘green’ designers such as Fonnesbech,
Barbara í Gongini and Trine Lindegaard in our roster, leading
the Financial Times to praise Copenhagen Fashion Week as ‘the
greenest fashion week around’. Other initiatives include green
GANNI
Photo: Elisabeth Eibye
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fashion exhibitions, showcasing designs made from sustainable
materials – e.g. recycled plastic bottles, seaweed, even milk fibres
– and The Green Walk, a shopping route through Copenhagen
that maps out the shops and boutiques that carry environmentally
conscious fashion brands.
To take part in your event, designers must sign the Danish Ethical
Fashion Charter, which bans them from using under-16s as
models if not accompanied by an adult. What other important
issues, in your opinion, should be addressed in order to make the
fashion industry more ethical?
It is important for us that the designers of Copenhagen Fashion
Week promote a healthy body image, and we created the ethical
charter because we want designers to provide the best and
healthiest working conditions for the models. This is why we
have banned models younger than 15, and require that models
younger than 16 are accompanied by an adult. We also require
clients to provide healthy and nourishing food backstage. Equally
importantly, we believe models should be properly compensated
for their work so we don’t allow designers to pay their models in
clothes, goody bags, etc.
What are your plans for the future of Copenhagen Fashion Week?
We are currently in the process of mapping out a strategy for the
future of Copenhagen Fashion Week. We are of course closely
following current developments in the fashion world such as
the see-now/buy-now trend, increasing consumer demand for
environmentally responsible fashion, and rapid digitalisation.
What is most important for us is that we continue to secure
Copenhagen’s position as the leading fashion week in the
Nordic region and as one of the biggest fashion destinations in
Northern Europe. We believe digital development is vital to our
success, so this is one of the aspects we are exploring. We would
like to be first-movers in the digital area and combine a digital
fashion experience with the physical events and networking in
Copenhagen that we still strongly believe in.
SOME OF THE MOST RECENT DESIGN
TALENTS WHO HAVE SHOWCASED AT
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK INCLUDE
FREYA DALSJØ, MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN,
SAKS POTTS,ASGER JUEL LARSEN,TONSURE,
TATIANA ANDERSEN CAMRE
AND MANY MORE
GANNI
BY MALENE BIRGER SAKS POTTS
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MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK
MADRID
Madrid, Spain, 16-21 February 2017
ifema.es/mercedesbenzfwm_06
MILANO MODA DONNA
Milan, Italy
22-28 February 2017
milanomodadonna.it/en
PARIS FASHION WEEK
Paris, France
28 February - 8 March 2017
modeaparis.com/en
LONDON FASHION WEEK
London, England
17-21 February 2017
londonfashionweek.co.uk
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
New York City, USA
9-16 February 2017
nyfw.com
COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Copenhagen, Denmark
31 January - 3 February 2017
copenhagenfashionweek.com
ARAB FASHION WEEK
Dubai, UAE
8-13 March 2017
arabfashionweek.org
UKRAINIAN FASHION WEEK
Kiev, Ukraine
4-8 February 2017
fashionweek.ua
FASHION WEEKS
DON’T FORGET TO ADD THESE NEW EXCITING DESTINATIONS TO YOUR DIARY.
THE FASHION CALENDAR IS MORE INTENSE THAN EVER WITH DESIGNERS’ SHOWS
SCHEDULED ALL OVER THE GLOBE
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION
DAYS KIEV
Kiev, Ukraine,1-5 February 2017
mbkievfashiondays.com
E l e n a R e v a C a r v e n
February-July 2017
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MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK
RUSSIA
Moscow, Russia
12-16 March 2017
mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru/en
CHINA FASHION WEEK
Beijing, China
25-31 March 2017
english.chinafashionweek.org
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION
WEEK AUSTRALIA
Sydney, Australia
14-19 May 2017
mbfashionweek.com/australia
SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK
Shanghai, China
7-13 April 2017
shanghaifashionweek.com
LONDON FASHION WEEK MEN’S
London, England
9-12 June 2017
londonfashionweekmens.com
HERA SEOUL FASHION WEEK
Seoul, Korea
27 March - 1 April 2017
seoulfashionweek.org
MILANO MODA UOMO
Milan, Italy
17-20 June 2017
milanomodauomo.it/en
PARIS MEN’S FASHION WEEK
Paris, France
21-25 June 2017
modeaparis.com/en
NEW YORK FASHION WEEK MEN’S
New York, USA
10-13 July 2017
cfda.com
AMAZON FASHION WEEK
Tokyo, Japan
20-25 March 2017
amazonfashionweektokyo.com/en
K e n z o
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/B U Y E R
SHOWING OFF
THERE’S A NEW GENERATION OF TALENTED DESIGNERS WITH DISTINCTIVE CREATIVE
AND COMMERCIAL POTENTIAL, MAKING BOLD ADVANCES INTO FASHION WEEKS ALL OVER
THE WORLD.WE\'VE SELECTED SOME OF THE MOST PROMISING SHOWS OF THE
AUTUMN/WINTER 2017 SEASON THATYOU WILL NOT WANTTO MISS
MERCEDES—BENZ
FASHION WEEK
MADRID
AILANTO
Ailanto is the creative union of twin brothers, Iñaki and Aitor
Muñoz. Originally from Bilbao, the pair moved to study Fine Art
at the University College Barcelona.The brothers set up their
own brand after graduating in 1995 and with an inclination
towards geometric shapes, mixing colours and the avant-
garde, their pieces quickly became recognisable. 2010 saw the
opening of their first monobrand boutique in Barcelona, and
in 2012 they threw open the doors of a second Ailanto shop, in
Madrid.
\'The stress is on the details and finishings.We use fine materials
such as linen, silk and wool which bring the softness necessary
to counter-balance an industrial rigidity and an asserted ultra-
modern aestheticism,\' say the designers. Other hallmarks of
their collection include skilful embroidery, complex texture
combinations, and the use of their own prints. Examples of the
brand’s work have been exhibited at the Victoria and Albert
Museum in London.
In the coming autumn/winter season, the brand will feature
midi dresses, oversized coats, cosy knits and fitted shapes as its
key shapes.Above all, this season’s collection from the Muñoz
brothers draws inspiration from art and nature using flower
patterns on dark background fabrics reminiscent of botanical
gardens.
T H E N E W A I L A N T O C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
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PARIS
FASHION
WEEK
MASHA MA
It didn\'t take Masha Ma long to
get herself known as one of the
most promising young Chinese
designers.A Central Saint Martins
graduate, Ma worked for Alexander
McQueen before launching her
namesake label in 2011.Today the
designer divides her time between
her Shanghai studio and her office
in Paris where she is regularly shows
at the fashion week.
\'I have a strong bent for eccentric
minimalism, which is becoming
part of my brand’s DNA, and I\'m
also interested in youth subcultures
which are a rich source of inspira-
tion for my team and I\' says Masha.
The designer describes her target
audience as independent and
intelligent women with a strong
sense of individuality.A Masha Ma
woman loves life and has a rebel-
lious streak in her.
Masha\'s collections are about futur-
istic prints and focus on materials,
but the key element of her designs
is the cut.The brand is renowned
for its two-piece suits with slim-fit
trousers as well as its oversized
suits. \' We are going to further ex-
plore and experiment on tailoring.
Our collection will feature a so-
phisticated day-to-night dress and
a padded oversized unisex Duffle
coat made of washed denim\' says
Masha.The designer prefers not to
reveal the details of her A/W 2017
collection, but promises that there
will be experiments in shape and
volume and a ‘rebellious’ cut.
T H E N E W M A S H A M A C O L L E C T I O N I S
A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T
V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
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122
JUAN HERNANDEZ DAELS
Argentina-born designer Juan
Hernandez Daels launched
his eponymous label in 2009
after graduating from the
Royal Academy of Fine Arts
in Antwerp. Before making
a name for himself in the
fashion industry, Daels gained
experience at Dries van Noten
and Raf Simons. Describing
his brand’s aesthetic as a cross
between Antwerp-inspired
experiments in antifashion
and Latino sensuality, Daels’s
unique life story is central to
the brand. As he says, ‘We
focus on tailoring savoir-faire
with continuous innovation.
My multicultural background
constitutes an enormous
source of inspiration, with my
clothes combining Flemish
heritage with my Argentinean
upbringing.’
One signature style from
Daels’ collections is oversized
suits adorned with giant bows.
His spring-summer 2017
collection saw lightweight
fabrics, like organic silk and
chiffon, married with industrial
materials. This combination of
soft and stiff materials gives
volume to his garments and
helps him to build geometric
shapes.
For his autumn-winter 2017
collection Daels plans to
reinvent the language of
tailoring. As he puts it, ‘The
idea of the collection is to
rethink the convention of the
suit, to rethink the convention
of tailoring. What would
suits be like on a different
planet, with different social
conventions or a different
force of gravity?’ He will
incorporate elements and
features of the suit into each
item from his upcoming
collection.
BUENOS
AIRES
FASHION
WEEK
T H E N E W J U A N H E R N A N D E Z D A E L S
C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S
T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/B U Y E R
124
GET THE MOST OUT OF THE TRADE SHOWS WITH THIS HANDY GUIDE TO FINDING
NEW COLLECTIONS OF CLOTHES, FOOTWEAR, AND ACCESSORIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD,
ENRICHING YOUR SHOP’S RANGE WITH NEW LABELS, AND PLACING ORDERS
FOR NEXT SEASON
EXHIBITION CALENDAR
1–3 FEBRUARY 2017
COPENHAGEN
CIFF
The largest and most innovative
fashion fair in Northern Europe, CIFF
was established in 1993 and has
been growing ever since. It features
men’s and women’s designers from
a number of countries. If you’re
looking for children’s collections,
CIFF KIDS is held elsewhere in
Copenhagen at the same time.
CIFF & Raven: Centre Boulevard
5, Copenhagen
CIFF Kids: Julius Thomsens Plads
1, Copenhagen
ciff.dk
February-March 2017
10–12 FEBRUARY
MUNICH
PREMIUM ORDER
Premium Order is Germany’s
most important fashion exhibition,
featuring about 600 collections
of women’s and men’s clothes,
footwear and accessories. This is
a great opportunity for those who
missed out on Premium in Berlin to
discover some attractive brands.
Zenith Gelände, Lilienthalallee
29, Munich
premiumexhibitions.com
3–5 FEBRUARY
MADRID
MOMAD METROPOLIS
Momad offers 900 brands of clothes and
accessories, also featuring fashion shows
and a trade business forum. Besides the
classic sections, there are also separate
categories featuring evening wear, eco
fashion and fast fashion, where buyers
can get a head start and order from the
current SS 2017 collection.
Feria de Madrid, Avenida del
Partenón 5, Madrid
momad.metropolis.ifema.es
11–14 FEBRUARY
MUNICH
SUPREME WOMEN&MEN
Supreme is celebrating its 10th anniversary
season by expanding both its exhibition
space and its selection of labels. The
exhibition features 750 collections, including
both women’s and men’s brands of ready-
to-wear clothes, as well as footwear and
accessories.
MTC House of Fashion, Ingolstädter
Straße/Taunusstraße 45, Munich
munichfashioncompany.co
12–14 FEBRUARY
LONDON
SCOOP
Scoop will feature 250 carefully
curated collections of premium women’s
clothes and accessories from young
designers from all over the world. Since
its inception six years ago the exhibition
has confidently established itself as a
leading show for its sector.
Saatchi Gallery, Duke of York\'s
HQ, King\'s Road, London
scoop-international.com
12–14 FEBRUARY
LONDON
PURE LONDON
Pure, a London exhibition, features
over 700 brands of women’s and
men’s clothes, 60% of which are from
overseas. See new collections, place
orders, and enjoy this opportunity to
visit fashion shows and attend trade
lectures.
Olympia London, Hammersmith
Road, Kensington, London
purelondon.com
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12–15 FEBRUARY
MILAN
THE MICAM
The largest trade show for the footwear
industry opens its 83rd season this
year. Featuring a broad panorama of
Italian producers, from major brands
to small family factories, it also offers
brands from other countries. Don’t miss
the fashion shows and workshops,
where you can learn about the
industry’s latest trends and innovations.
Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del
Sempione 28, Milan
themicam.com
17–21 FEBRUARY
LONDON
DESIGNER SHOWROOMS
London is the only fashion capital
where you can attend a fashion
show for an established brand and
also sneak a peek at new collections
from 150 young and promising
designers, from the UK and from
global destination as diverse as
Taiwan and Egypt. This fashion
venue, just like London Fashion
Week itself, is directly organised
by the British Fashion Council and
comprises collections of women’s
clothes, footwear, bags and
accessories.
The Store Studios, 180 The Strand,
London
londonfashionweek.co.uk/designer-
showrooms
12–15 FEBRUARY
MILAN
MIPEL
MICAM’s exhibition space is
shared by MIPEL, an exhibition of
bags and accessories focusing on
Italian brands. Don’t miss the section
dedicated to young designers,
located in the centre of the fair.
Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale
del Sempione 28, Milan
mipel.com
16–18 FEBRUARY
NEW YORK
TRANOÏ WOMEN\'S & PARFUMS
Tranoï is the most prestigious European fashion venue, featuring collections from premium
class brands. If you are not attending the show in Paris, be sure to catch it in New York. The
exhibition also offers a selection of perfumes, which will be of special interest to concept
stores.
The Tunnel, Chelsea, 269 11th Avenue, New York
tranoi.com
20–23 FEBRUARY
MOSCOW
COLLECTION PREMIÈRE MOSCOW (CPM)
Eastern Europe and Russia’s leading fashion exhibition features international
brands of men’s and women’s clothes, accessories, underwear and swimsuits,
all targeted at the Russian market. There is a separate section dedicated to
children’s fashion. This season, CPM will feature almost 1000 collections from
30 countries, including exciting offerings from newcomers like Indonesia, India,
Colombia and Romania.
Expocentre Central Exhibition Complex: 14, Krasnopresnenskaya nab., Moscow
cpm-moscow.ru
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20–22 FEBRUARY
LAS VEGAS
AGENDA, CAPSULE AND LIBERTY
The Venetian’s exposition space Sands
will host three fashion exhibitions at once,
offering buyers and boutique owners a
wide choice of items. Featuring carefully
selected talented young designers from
the USA and other countries, it focuses on
stylish and high-quality youth brands.
Sands Expo, The Venetian, 201
Sands Avenue, Las Vegas
agendacapsulelibertyreg.com
23-25 FEBRUARY
NEW YORK
WOMAN
This emerging exhibition was first
held in 2012 and is marked by a
unique selection of stylish modern
clothing and accessories brands.
About 100 designers from various
countries around the world will
present their collections this season.
Spring Studios, 50 Varick St,
New York
man-woman.co
21–23 FEBRUARY
LAS VEGAS
MAGIC
This exhibition, one of the largest
in the USA, is held biannually in
February and August. It features a
wide choice of brands from the mid-
range to luxury segments in a number
of categories: men’s, women’s
and children’s clothes, footwear,
accessories and underwear. Magic
takes place in two exhibition
centres concurrently: Las Vegas and
Mandalay Bay.
Las Vegas Convention Centre,
3150 Paradise Rd., Las Vegas
Mandalay Bay Convention Centre,
3950 S. Las Vegas Blvd., Las
Vegas
ubmfashion.com
24–26 FEBRUARY
NEW YORK
CAPSULE WOMEN’S AND CAPSULE ACCESSORIES
This exhibition will be of particular interest to the owners of upmarket youth
boutiques, as it focuses on emerging brands from talented designers. New
sections will welcome buyers this February: Axis, focused on active lifestyle
brands, and Beauty Lab, featuring independent makeup producers.
Skylight Clarkson Sq, 550 Washington Street, New York
capsuleshow.com
24–27 FEBRUARY
MILAN
THE ONE MILANO
The One will be held for the first
time this year, combining two
of Milan’s exhibitions: MIPAP,
featuring women’s clothes and
accessories, and MIFUR, offering
fur and leather items. The One
features about 300 brands and
offers a particularly wide selection
of outerwear.
Fiera Milano City, Viale
Scarampo, Milan
theonemilano.com
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WHITESHOW
WWW.WHITESHOW.IT WHITESHOWOFFICIAL WHITESHOW
F O L L O W U S
con il patrocinio di
25–27 FEBRUARY
MILAN
THE WHITE SHOW
Milan’s largest fashion trade show
enjoys greater success every season.
It features numerous brands of
women’s clothes and accessories
from both Italy and abroad.
Via Tortona 27 – 35 – 54, Milan
whiteshow.it
27 FEBRUARY–1 MARCH
NEW YORK
COTERIE, EDIT AND
ACCESSORIESTHESHOW
The Javits Centre holds several
exhibitions at the same time,
arranged by the organisers of
Magic in Las Vegas. Coterie
features a wide choice of women’s
clothes and accessories, Edit shows
carefully selected collections
of ready-to-wear clothes, while
AccessoriesTheShow focuses on
accessories, from fashionable bags
to quality costume jewellery.
The Javits Centre, 11th Ave at 37th
St, Las Vegas
ubmfashion.com
13–14 MARCH
LOS ANGELES
CAPSULE
This renowned trade exhibition,
focusing on talented designers from
the youth sector, will be held in Los
Angeles for the second time this year.
It will feature new collections from
California brands.
Penthouse 13C, California Market
Centre, 110 East 9th Street,
Downtown LA
capsuleshow.com
3–5 MARCH
PARIS
WOMAN
Woman Paris focuses on independent
designers and emerging brands from
a number of countries. You will find
carefully selected youth collections from
international designers here, all of high
quality and stylish design.
25 rue Yves Toudic, Paris
man-woman.co
25–27 FEBRUARY
MILAN
SUPER
The Pitti Immagine project, an
exhibition of women’s clothes and
accessories, is held in The Mall
exhibition centre. It features fashion
brands from around the world,
shining a spotlight on promising
young designers.
The Mall, Porta Nuova Varesine,
Piazza Lina Bo Bardi, Milan
pittimmagine.com
2–5 MARCH
PARIS
PREMIÈRE CLASSE, PARIS SUR
MODE TUILERIES AND CAPSULE
All held in the Tuileries Garden during
women’s fashion week, these three
exhibitions will delight buyers with a wide
choice of brands. Traditionally, Première
Classe focuses on accessories, while
Paris sur Mode Tuileries and Capsule
feature clothes collections, including
those from young designers.
Jardin des Tuileries, Entrée Place
de la Concorde, Paris
premiere-classe.com
3-6 MARCH
PARIS
TRANOÏ
Europe’s largest and best attended
fashion exhibition: Tranoï’s quality
brand selection has earned it
worldwide success. The exhibition
takes place in two major venues
and features new collections of
women\'s clothes, accessories and
costume jewellery.
Palais de la Bourse, Paris
Carrousel du Louvre, Paris
tranoi.com
21–24 MARCH
MOSCOW
OBUV. MIR KOZHI (SHOES AND
LEATHER PRODUCTS)
This exhibition of footwear and
accessories is the leader in Russia
and the CIS. Each year, it features
about 200 producers from a number
of countries. It offers collections
of women’s, men’s and children’s
footwear, bags, gloves and other
leather items. There is a particularly
wide range of Italian middle and
upper level brands.
Expocentre Central Exhibition
Complex: 14, Krasnopresnenskaya
nab., Moscow
obuv-expo.ru
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BRIGHTENING UP THE FIERA MILANO RHO TRADE FAIR CENTRE FROM 12-15 FEBRUARY 2017,
THE MICAM OFFERS A GREAT OPPORTUNITY TO STAY ONE STEP AHEAD OF THE PACK AND LEARN
ABOUT THE MATERIALS AND INSPIRATIONS THAT WILL DISTINGUISH NEXT AUTUMN/WINTER SHOES
COLLECTIONS. FOUR TRENDS REIGN SUPREME, OFFERING BOLD FASHION VISIONS AND INSIGHTS
INTO THE MOODS AND COLOURS THAT WILL RULE COME AUTUMN
PREVIEWS AND TRENDS
DESIGN MATTERS –
SUSTAINABLE DESIGN
WITH BALANCED HUES
WOMEN
This trend focuses on the
impact of sustainable practices
on design: sophisticated
sustainability, choice of
materials, minimalist items,
couture and comfort. The
colour palette is versatile, with
soft hues coupled with greys for
a modern look.
MEN
There are two watchwords here:
craftsmanship and quality. The
colour palette is balanced with
grey and plum hues offset by
warmer tones.
EARTHED – THE VIGOUR
OF LAND AND NATURE
WOMEN
Earthed explores our
increasingly visceral need
for contact with nature.
Fabrics are soft, colours
deep. The fabrics are
inspired by natural
elements, such as
geological formations or
wood grains.
MEN
For men, outdoor wear fuses
with urban streetwear and
couture, creating a versatile
look for the modern man about
town. The palette evokes early
autumn colours, when the
leaves begin to turn, but these
shades are more vibrant, with a
texture you can almost feel.
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NOCTURNE - THE DARKEST
ATMOSPHERES
WOMEN
Explore the wonders of the
dark. The night comes to life
thanks to this trend, focusing on
dream states and mysticism.
The palette draws inspiration
from the evening, with dark
shades like midnight blue,
forest green and viridian.
MEN
Urban themes permeate men’s
footwear, bringing street style
to the younger market sector,
while sophisticated textures
create items for upmarket
consumers. Colours range
between bright accents and
darker hues.
INFUSION – OPPOSITES
ATTRACT
WOMEN
This trend explores the growing
interdependence between
man and technology and
the resulting convergence of
reality and the virtual world, the
tangible and the technological,
the past and the present. With
vibrant pops of colour and soft
pastel hues, the palette for
Infusion has an air of luxury.
MEN
In men’s footwear, minimalist
and maximalist styles collide,
resulting in models with
simple shapes but in classic
men’s style. The colour palette
offers a new balance, with
unconventional retro colour
combinations.
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TRANOÏ REPRESENTS A RENDEZVOUS OF DESIGNERS AND BUYERS,AND AS THE NAME SUGGESTS – TRANOÏ
MEANS ‘BETWEEN US’ IN ITALIAN – IT’S A CHANCE TO GETTHE INSIDE WORD ON THE LATESTTRENDS. ONE
OF THE LARGEST FASHION EXHIBITIONS OF THE SEASON,TRANOÏ WILL ONCE AGAIN GATHER THE LEADING
PLAYERS OF THE INDUSTRY IN PARIS THIS MARCH
BETWEEN YOU, ME,
AND TRANOÏ
TRANOÏ throws open its doors
to buyers and fashion market
specialists six times a year. It
showcases collections from
both world famous brands
and new designers competing
to get into that fashion elite.
Whether long-established
or young and hungry, all the
labels featured present their
best items, which is what has
TRANOÏ’s reputation as a
home for creativity and high
quality products, and this year
will be no different.
When TRANOÏ was first
founded it was only held in
Paris, where it formed part
of the fashion week roster.
However, as its range of
participating brands grew to
international levels it became
so successful with buyers
that it crossed the ocean and
launched in New York in 2015.
While 2016 saw the launch
of TRANOÏ Paris: Parfums,
presenting the best perfume
innovations. Women’s pre-
collections are also shown in
Paris.
This March’s programme
includes holding a flagship
exhibition, TRANOÏ Paris:
Women’s, deservedly
considered to be one of
the key exhibitions of the
season. It will be held in two
major venues in central Paris:
Palais de la Bourse (Palace of
the Stock Exchange) in the
Presqu\'île area, and Carrousel
du Louvre, a major shopping
centre. Carrousel du Louvre
will host winter collections,
including both fashionable
clothes and fur items,
outerwear, knitwear, and
household things. There will
be a special zone in the lobby
featuring accessories brands
with dedicated sections
for footwear and jewellery
producers.
This season, the organisers are
focusing on new brands set to
showcase their collections at
the exhibition for the first time,
such as ALBA KNITWEAR,
BESFXXK, DON’T CRY, EVOLG
GLOVES, GIA COUTURE, LA
REVEUSE, LAURENCE BRAS,
SYLVIA CORRETTE, THAIS
BERNARDES MILANO and
THE GIGI. But the much-
loved TRANOÏ Paris regulars
are also all back for another
season, including AS65,
BELTZ, BJØRG, BLANCHA,
BMUET(TE), FURLAND &
ANGELSSHARE, GIANCARLO
PETRIGLIA, HARRIS WHARF
LONDON, PB0110, PEECH
and SOFIE D’HOORE.
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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The Paris exhibition
traditionally attracts over
650 participants from across
the world. This season’s
show will particularly
highlight the work of local
participants, whose clothes
and accessories proudly
bear labels saying ‘Made
in Paris.’ It is notable that
special attention will be
paid to brands presenting
‘evergreens’: classic
form-fitting silhouettes
showcasing the art of Italian
tailoring.
Otherwise, the programme
of TRANOÏ Paris in March will
be, as always, packed with
shows, trade meetings and
concluded deals, as well as
art exhibitions, parties and
fashion shows. Add to this
the Paris Fashion Week buzz –
the event takes place during
the same period – and you
should book your flight to
Paris right now.
THE PARIS EXHIBITION TRADITIONALLYATTRACTS OVER 650 PARTICIPANTS FROM
ACROSS THE WORLD.THIS SEASON’S SHOW WILL PARTICULARLY HIGHLIGHTTHE
WORK OF LOCAL PARTICIPANTS,WHOSE CLOTHES AND ACCESSORIES PROUDLY
BEAR LABELS SAYING ‘MADE IN PARIS’
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THE HIGHLIGHTS OF
PITTI UOMO 91
IN JANUARY BUYERS AND JOURNALISTS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD GATHERED IN
FLORENCE FOR THE 91ST EDITION OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY FASHION EVENT
Each January the streets of
Florence are transformed
into catwalks featuring the
hottest trends in men’s street
fashion, as journalists, buyers,
stylists and models flood the
city. This edition of Pitti Uomo
saw over 36,000 visitors, the
majority of whom were buy-
ers – some 24,300 of them to
be precise, hailing from more
than 100 countries. In their
honour the 60,000 m2 historic
site of Fortezza da Basso was
turned into a fashion venue,
featuring 16 pavilions. Each
was divided into sections
hosting various trends and
styles in men\'s fashion: Pitti
Uomo, Make, Pop Up Stores,
Eye Pop, Fashion At Work,
Futuro Maschile, Touch!,
l’Altro Uomo, Born in the
USA, Unconventional, Open,
The Latest Fashion Buzz, I
Play, Urban Panorama, and
My Factory. This year also saw
the addition of a brand new
section: HI Beauty, dedicated
to fragrances, cosmetics and
body care products.
Pitti Uomo has established
a unique position for itself
as a cross between a fashion
week and a traditional trade
fair, with star-studded runway
shows and the biggest fash-
ion names presenting their
collections in the pavilions.
As special guest of the 91st
edition, British style icon Sir
Paul Smith brought the latest
collection of contemporary
and technical pieces from
his ‘PS by Paul Smith’ line.
Alessandro Sartori, the new
artistic director at internation-
ally acclaimed Italian brand Z
Zegna, showcased his debut
collection for the renowned
label, and Belgian-born
Tim Coppens showed his
AW 2017 collection. These
designers were joined by
Tommy Hilfiger, featured at
B U Y E R
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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Pitti Uomo for the first time.
He presented his newest au-
tumn 2017 collection, with a
dazzling installation inspired
by innovation and digital
technology. Golden Goose
Deluxe, which launched its
iconic sneakers model ten
years ago, also brought an
exciting new project to Pitti.
Carlo Volpi, Lucio Vanotti and
Sansovino 6 unveiled their
collections as part of Pitti
Italics, a programme started
by Pitti Immagine to promote
and support young talent,
and special events were also
held by Japanese and South
Korean designers. Fausto
Puglisi showcased his men\'s
footwear line, and Wrangler,
the legendary denim brand
that celebrates its 70th anni-
versary this year, brought an
exclusive collection made in
collaboration with contempo-
rary artists and designers.
Of more than 1,220 brands
exhibited at this edition of
Pitti Uomo, 540 were from
ART EXHIBITIONS, INSTALLATIONS, SHOWS AND
COCKTAIL PARTIES WERE ONLYA FRACTION OF
THE EVENTS ENJOYED BYATTENDEES.THE SHEER
SCALE OF THE EVENT WAS SO IMPRESSIVE THAT
PITTI UOMO 92 IS ALREADY BEING SLATED AS THE
MOST HOTLYANTICIPATED FASHION EVENT OF
THE SUMMER
abroad. Along with buyers
from Germany, Japan, Spain,
Great Britain, Turkey, China,
Switzerland, the USA, Bel-
gium and South Korea, whose
attendance figures were
traditionally high, Russian and
Ukrainian buyers re-estab-
lished their presence after the
last year\'s drop in numbers.
Art exhibitions, installations,
shows and cocktail parties
were only a fraction of the
events enjoyed by attendees.
The sheer scale of the event
was so impressive that Pitti
Uomo 92 is already being
slated as the most hotly an-
ticipated fashion event of the
summer.
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Each of the Capsule trade
shows is an opportunity for
buyers to get up close with
new collections from around
the world. Starting off with a
menswear show in Paris during
Men’s Fashion Week, Capsule
then heads over the pond: first
to New York and then to Las
Vegas. The gambling capital
hosts both men’s and women’s
shows and from then on the
women’s shows take over,
lighting up New York (again
during Fashion Week), Paris
and Los Angeles. LA is the most
recent addition to the show’s
calendar, and, as Capsule
co-founder Deirdre Maloney
says, it was an exceptionally
coveted slot, since the city
already boasts a cornucopia
of boutiques. ‘Demand for
our niche of progressive and
advanced contemporary
labels is growing right now,
especially on the West Coast,
and we\'re launching there in
order to meet that demand,’
she says. ‘Downtown LA is a
great, revitalised destination
for shopping and culture
right now; we\'re excited to be
adding presence there to our
calendar, in addition to our
shows in New York, Paris and
Las Vegas.’
Capsule followed up its 2016
West Coast debut by opening
its first concept store in LA,
called Capsule Concept. It’s a
rotating-concept shop where
month-long themes shape
the offer. The store lives up to
the original event’s principles,
displaying of-the-moment
independent brands in
menswear and womenswear,
along with accessories and
beauty and lifestyle products.
So, what makes a Capsule
show an unmissable event?
Unlike many fashion trade
shows, Capsule was conceived
THE FUTURE ENCAPSULATED
CAPSULE, ONE OF THE MOST PROGRESSIVE FASHION TRADE SHOWS IN THE WORLD, IS GETTING
READY FOR AW 17.THIS MEANS THAT EVERY FASHION PROFESSIONAL ON BOTH SIDES OF THE
ATLANTIC MUSTATTEND AT LEAST ONE OF THE SIX CAPSULE EEVENTS,TAKING PLACE FROM LATE
JANUARYTO MID MARCH
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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with quality, not quantity,
in mind. Its creators have
been building an intimate
community of brands and
participants from the very
first New York edition of
Capsule in 2007. That first
show selected and showcased
just 50 menswear brands,
chosen by the curators to
represent everything that
was fashionable and up to
date. The principle of hand-
picking brands has remained
unchanged ever since. The
shows have incorporated new
participants, covered new
cities and expanded to include
womenswear, but the advisory
board holds the bar high as
ever, checking whether each
new brand meets Capsule’s
exacting standards. Buyers
from the world’s biggest
shops and boutiques as well
as industry leaders make up
Capsule’s target audience.
This choice of building
business relations rather
than presenting collections
to public at large has helped
cement Capsule’s reputation
as the epitome of fashion-
forwardness and quality.
What will this edition of
Capsule bring to buyers?
First, Capsule launches new
platforms in New York and
teams up with Highsnobiety
for a range of men’s shows.
The influential online
publication will recognise
the best brands during their
Highsnobiety Crown Awards
Ceremony. Next, a special
‘Poli-Sci by Capsule’ collection
inspired by the recent US
election will be shown to
attendees in NY and Las Vegas.
Capsule New York women’s
shows will see a record-
breaking number of brands,
with about 750 labels covering
apparel, accessories and
beauty on the agenda. The
Paris edition of Capsule will
take place during Women\'s
Fashion Week as part of the
major European exhibitions
Paris Sur Mode and Premiere
Classe. Whichever Capsule you
attend you’ll discover some of
the world’s freshest brands and
most influential new directions
in fashion today.
BUYERS FROM THE WORLD’S BIGGEST SHOPS AND BOUTIQUES AS WELL
AS INDUSTRY LEADERS MAKE UP CAPSULE’S TARGET AUDIENCE. THIS
CHOICE OF BUILDING BUSINESS RELATIONS RATHER THAN PRESENTING
COLLECTIONS TO PUBLIC AT LARGE HAS HELPED CEMENT
CAPSULE’S REPUTATION AS THE EPITOME OF FASHION-
FORWARDNESS AND QUALITY
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\'We wanted to offer something that
would benefit both buyers and boutique
owners. Russia is so big and diverse that
it naturally has a variety of remarkable
stores. They can be very different, and
yet they all bring fashion and style to
customers and help to cultivate good
taste\'says Elena Bugranova, President of
the Union. \'I’ve been to many countries
and what always puzzles me is that
people abroad only know about the
boutiques of Moscow and St Petersburg.
There are many wonderful stores in
other cities and regions, and I\'ve long
wanted to bring them into the spotlight.
So, we started this project and published
the Russia\'s Top 100 Fashion Boutiques
book, presenting stores in 47 cities.\'
Among the experts sharing their
experience with the participants, were
Jonathan Brenton (Minister Counsellor at
the British Embassy in Moscow), Frances
Lindesay (fashion print and textile
designer who has worked for Céline,
Preen and Diane Von Furstenberg),
Andrea Salvadori (TRANOI), Kasper Scott
(Kopenhagen Fur), Natalia Chinenova
(Fashion Consulting Group), Matteo
Scarparo (Assocalzaturifici) and Lior
Susana (viadelbuyer.com).
As Jonathan Brenton noted, \'In the UK,
£50 billion worth of luxury goods are
sold annually. This is a huge sector of
the industry which employs 160,000
people. What\'s more, this market
brings us together. While current
relations between our countries may
be somewhat strained, we still have
a lot in common in terms of tastes
and preferences. Russians love British
RECOGNIZING THE VERY BEST
ON NOVEMBER 15, 2016, THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION PRESENTED THE RUSSIA\'S TOP 100
FASHION BOUTIQUES BOOK TO EACH OF THE RETAILERS IT HONOURED. THE EVENT TOOK PLACE IN
THE LOTTE HOTEL MOSCOW AND WAS FOLLOWED BY A FORUM ON THE LATEST IN RETAIL, AND THE
BEST LUXURY STORES AWARD CEREMONY. IT WAS HERE THAT SOME OF THE OWNERS AND BUYERS
OF RUSSIA’S TOP MULTIBRAND STORES WERE RECOGNISED FOR THEIR WORK
fashion, just as the British are developing
an interest in Russian brands such as
Olga Vilshenko, Ulyana Sergeenko and
Vika Gazinskaya\'
Natalia Chinenova, Chief Business
Development Consultant at the
Fashion Consulting Group, spoke on
efficient purchase and sale, and on
the new forms of consumption. She
identified three main trends that have
emerged in the Russian market over
recent years: people are switching to
less expensive brands, shopping more
during sales campaigns, and are making
fewer impulse purchases and buying less
for the future.
TEXT: FashionUnited
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Following the forum, the attendees
were invited to the invitation-only The
Best Luxury Stores Award Ceremony.
The Moscow Central Department Store
(TSUM) won two trophies. The first went
to Fashion Director and Vice President
of Mercury Russia, Alla Verber, for her
creative approach to selecting luxury
brands, and Daniil Berg, Creative
Director of TSUM, collected the second
for the best shop windows. The Podium
Market company (Moscow) and its
Creative Director, Polina Kitsenko, won
prizes for promoting fashion, bringing
affordable luxury to young people
and supporting Russian designers
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and emerging talents. Constantine
Andrikopulos, Director for Development
at Bosco Di Ciliegi, picked up the award
for the best family shopping experience,
on behalf of the Moscow-based Vesna
shopping centre. The list of awardees
also included Aizel boutique and online
shop Aizel.ru (Moscow), Babochka (St
Petersburg), Boutique No. 7 (Moscow), VIP
GROUP (Kazan), Volna and ART boutiques
(both in Samara), Sobranie prêt-a-porter
(Krasnoyarsk), and many others.
Between announcements, the attendees
enjoyed seeing collections by the Italian
brand Via Delle Perle and rising Russian
label Seamore, with the latter showcasing
double-sided outfits and garments with
detachable parts. Kopenhagen Fur, the
world’s largest fur auction house and main
sponsor of the ceremony, treated the guests
to a fur fashion show featuring items by
Avanti, Bourtsos, Manakas, PKZ and Manzari.
The extraordinary event ended sweetly as
a celebration cake, made in the shape of
Russia\'s Top 100 Fashion Boutiques book,
was shared amongst all the attendees and
winners.
The official partners to the ceremony were
Porsche Centre Taganka, SDG, Revlon
Professional Brands, New Light Technology
and Gala Khachaturova.
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"RUSSIA IS SO BIG AND
DIVERSE THAT IT NATURALLY
HAS A VARIETY OF REMARK-
ABLE STORES.THEY CAN BE
VERY DIFFERENT,AND YET
THEYALL BRING FASHION
AND STYLE TO CUSTOMERS
AND HELP TO CULTIVATE
GOOD TASTE.” ELENA BU-
GRANOVA
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THE WIND
OF CHANGE
PUBLISHED ATTHE END OF 2016,THE BEST LUX-
URY STORES BOOK FEATURES RUSSIA\'S MOST
PROMINENT RETAIL PLAYERS, FROM MOSCOW
TO VLADIVOSTOK.WE ASKED FASHION EXPERTS
FROM ITALYAND FRANCE INCLUDED IN THE PANEL
OF JUDGES HOW THE RUSSIAN FASHION BUSI-
NESS HAS CHANGED OVER RECENTYEARS AND
WHAT MAKES A SUCCESSFUL MULTIBRAND STORE
How is the Russian fashion
market changing today?
The real experts of the in-
dustry have led boutique
clients to abandon the idea that
everything is much better and
cheaper in the West. Expanding
boutique concepts and the
unique tastes of Russian buyers
now mean that offers to the
consumer are actually more in-
teresting and profitable in Russia.
However, today\'s customers are
already so knowledgeable in the
matters of fashion that shops are
forced to constantly seek new
ways of attracting clients. It’s no
longer enough simply to launch
a nice boutique in the centre of a
city; you have to keep surprising
your clients and finding new and
special ways to communicate
with them.This is why we’re
seeing a rise in fashion parties
and events, collaborations with
young designers, and shop-in-
shops launches. Russian fashion
labels are also flourishing.
Names like Terekhov,A la Russe
and Chapurin have shot to suc-
cess overseas and have quickly
become prominent brands in
Europe.
What are your criteria for assess-
ing the quality of a boutique?
For me, the most important thing
about a boutique is its owners.
Their attitude and their passion
for the fashion industry not only
determines the store’s atmos-
phere, but also its buying power.
Fashion purchases mean more
to clients than merely acquiring
a useful object. Fashion is a
symbolic language that speaks
of belonging to a style or trend;
it is a dream that we create for
ourselves.This is why it is crucial
that everything clients encounter
in their search for that dream
should only strengthen their
desire to pursue it. So a mod-
ern-day boutique should not be
overburdened with colour or
detail.The focus should be on
the products, and everything else
should frame and enhance them
with crystalline clarity. It is also
paramount to correctly distribute
the labels around the shop. First,
boutiques must choose the so-
called leading brands that will set
the tone and determine the target
audience, and then decide on the
accompanying brands that will
complement the range on offer.
Tell us about the importance of
range for a multibrand boutique.
It all depends on what goals its
owners have and what target
audience they rely on. In case
of a multibrand shop featuring
top brands, the range should be
made up of nothing but world-
class names: Saint Laurent, Céline,
Chloé, Givenchy,Valentino, etc.
High status always means high
costs, so when some boutiques
partition their space into zones,
some with prominent brands and
others with less influential or sec-
ond-line ones, this often creates in-
ternal competition and confusion.
Therefore, we do not recommend
featuring brands from different
categories in the same space on
the same floor. Now, if we’re talk-
ing about a shop with second-line
luxury or designer brands, about
50% of the space should be
dedicated to basic clothing items
that bring in the income.The other
50% should be occupied by the
so-called ‘shop window’– display
items that attract attention– as
well as supporting products like
accessories and footwear.
How is the Russian fashion market
changing today?
For the better! At some point,
every client will move from want-
ing to buy every luxury item on
offer to a more scrupulous, picky
form of consumption.They be-
come wiser, and I am very happy
that the Russian fashion market is
ready for the more sophisticated
requirements of an educated
clientele. Many say that people
are now buying less, but I respond
that they are buying better.To
me, quality is always preferable to
quantity.
What are your criteria for
assessing the quality of a
boutique?
Well, it is extremely important to
select brands correctly. A shop
has to decide what it wants
its customers to see and who
makes up its target audience, be
it young people, connoisseurs of
classic style, or fans of the latest
trends.Taken as a whole, the
range of brands should satisfy
the needs of the boutique’s
clients as much as possible.The
presentation of the goods and
merchandising is just as impor-
tant, since so much depends on
how much insight the buyer can
gain into the collection and how
well they can convey the design-
er’s idea without altering it.
Tell us about the importance
of range for a multibrand
boutique.
The range must be consistent
within a certain style. But it’s a
balance: the items can’t be mo-
notonous.You need a selection
of pieces that complement one
another.
INNA ALDUSHENKOVA
EVEREST ATTITUDE,
FRANCE
NATACHA GANIVET
SOCIÉTÉ D\'ORA, FRANCE
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MARINA PLISOVA AND VITALY PLISOV
CREATIVEST, FRANCE
How is the Russian fashion mar-
ket changing today?
The market is indeed changing,
driven by both the economic
situation and the influence of new
phenomena in fashion. People
are travelling and visiting other
shops more often these days. But
online boutiques are really at the
heart of the new way of shopping,
offering clients a chance to com-
pare things, which then allows
offline shops to feature more
advanced selections as a result of
learning about customer choices.
People’s motivation for buying is
also changing.While the goal for
end customers used to be that
they followed seasonal fashion
developments in order to show
others that they were on trend,
there are now certain timeless
values replacing that. People no
longer want something short-
lived, flashing across the catwalk
like a comet, worn once or twice
for a social media selfie and then
handed over to a second-hand
store. Customers want to build
up their wardrobe, so as to have
items that will be fashionable
during any season.This does not
mean that their overall buying
power has reduced. But this
does mean that there are some
dramatic changes taking place in
their system of values. People’s at-
titude towards shopping is more
responsible now.
What are your criteria for assess-
ing the quality of a boutique?
Just as the theatre, as they say,
begins with the cloakroom, so a
fashion boutique experience be-
gins with the shop window. It’s ef-
fectively the hallmark of the bou-
tique, conveying what the shop is
all about. For me, the main sign of
success is in having a single pivot,
a single idea that brings together
both the selection of brands and
the skill of its buyers in selecting
and presenting collections.When
they come to the showroom, every
buyer sort of becomes a co-par-
ticipant in the creative process.
They receive a collection from the
designer’s hands and then create
a certain mosaic.Aside from this,
skilful merchandising, the design
of the interior, lighting and the
sales equipment used in the shop
all matter quite a bit.
Tell us about the importance of
range for a multibrand boutique.
On the one hand, the wider the
better, but on the other, quality
is more important than quantity.
The selection must match the
original concept of the shop, its
location, and its target audience
perfectly. Do not limit yourself to
offering just basic, safe, profitable
items.Try to introduce your client
to more sophisticated things, to
help them develop their image. In
this respect, it becomes especially
important to work with your clients
closely.Then, of course, it’s also
a good idea to let your audience
create a complete look using
items from the same designer,
which means the collection should
feature not only clothes but also
footwear and accessories from
each brand on offer.
B U Y E R
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IRINA GUDKOVA
IFD, ITALY
How is the Russian fashion
market changing today?
The consumption behaviour
of end clients and the dis-
tribution policies of brands
of all categories, from the
pinnacle of luxury to more
affordable labels, have been
strongly affected by the
economic crisis, sanctions
and the depreciation of the
rouble. So today’s situation
for the fashion industry in
the former USSR countries
has followed the recent
global downturn.
What are your criteria for
assessing the quality of a
boutique?
Multibrand boutiques have
a unique opportunity to
satisfy the needs of several
consumer groups at once,
by offering a wide range of
brands united by a sin-
gle concept. A profitable
multibrand shop attracts
its clients with its special
atmosphere and its wide
choice. The selection of the
brands, of course, has to con-
form to the expectations of
various target groups. Every
client should feel special
and welcomed here. Anoth-
er important aspect is that
boutiques offer a chance to
create new images every day,
using the collections on dis-
play and individual items to
help supplement the image.
Tell us about the importance
of range for a multibrand
boutique.
These boutiques have to offer
several similar items from
competing designers, who
are in a constant struggle to
win clients in their mono-
brand shops. This strategy
gives multibrand boutiques
a chance to satisfy a greater
number of customers and to
offer a choice to those who
are willing to experiment with
a number of brands.
ROBERTO CHINELLO
SOCIETÀ ITALIA, ITALY
How is the Russian fashion
market changing today?
The first thing that springs to
mind is that there have been
really major changes in how
Russian brands work. Recently,
Russian fashion has reached a
whole new level, and ‘made in
Russia’ now brings up notions of
quality control, creative work and
a distinct philosophy. Personally,
I really love many of the Russian
brands as well as the style of
their collections.
What are your criteria for
assessing the quality of a
boutique?
Multibrand boutiques should
provide a wide range of goods
that are in line with current
trends and consumer tastes.
Likewise, visual merchandising
should also reflect this diversity
of choice. But customers
should not feel as if they are
in some kind of luxury bazaar,
and so presenting collections
deserves painstaking attention.
When working out an effective
merchandising concept, the
shops should aim at linking
the elusive, inspired beauty
of the fashion world with an
analytical, logical approach
based on customer behaviour
when they choose items
for their wardrobe. It is my
opinion that many multibrand
shops attempt to emulate
monobrand ones, and that
is a big mistake. Multibrand
boutiques are capable of
giving the client a totally
different shopping experience
by taking them on a ‘fashion
journey’ through collections
from a number of brands,
and thus show them a more
complete panorama of the
fashion world.
Tell us about the importance
of range for a multibrand
boutique.
It has to be wide and diverse,
logical and attractive, and it
must also match the tastes of
the target audience.
RECENTLY, RUSSIAN FASHION HAS REACHED A
WHOLE NEW LEVEL,AND ‘MADE IN RUSSIA’ NOW
BRINGS UP NOTIONS OF QUALITY CONTROL,
CREATIVE WORK AND A DISTINCT PHILOSOPHY
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-aw2017-18-eng/Via Giandomenico Romagnosi 4, Milano
T. (+39) 02 36517680
E. info@derosmilano.com
www.derosmilano.com
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144
The five-star Lotte Hotel Moscow opened in 2010. It was
the first hotel that the luxurious South Korean Lotte Hotels
and Resorts hotel group opened in Russia, adding it to
their list of 20 hotels in South Korea, Vietnam, Uzbekistan
and the USA. The company now has plans to open its
branches in St. Petersburg and Yangon (Myanmar).
Located on Novinsky Boulevard in the city centre, just
a few minutes\' walk from New Arbat Avenue, the Lotte
Hotel Moscow offers 300 spacious rooms and suites,
including Russia’s largest Royal Suite (490m2) boasting
a spacious bedroom, bathroom with a jacuzzi, private
sauna, sitting room with piano and bar, conference
hall seating 14, study, kitchen and guest room. Among
those who’ve stayed in this gorgeous suite are heads of
state, politicians, members of diplomatic missions and
celebrities.
E X C E E D I N G
E X P E C TAT I O N S
THE SETTING FOR TWO FASHION WEEKS (MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK
RUSSIA AND MOSCOW FASHION WEEK) AND THE BASE FOR SHOWROOMS OF
MAJOR RUSSIAN AND FOREIGN BRANDS, MOSCOW HAS SECURED ITS STATUS
AS A PERMANENT DESTINATION FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY. BUYER ADVISES
ON WHERE TO STAY ON YOUR BUSINESS TRIP
The Lotte Hotel Moscow offers six conference halls
for your business events, while the modern and well-
equipped fitness centre and the world-famous Mandara
Spa with its luxurious Balinese spa rituals cater to the
leisure needs of the hotel\'s guests.
Even if you don’t plan to stay in Moscow overnight,
consider visiting the Lotte Hotel Moscow to sample
Carlo Cracco contemporary Italian cuisine in OVO, the
famous chef\'s first restaurant outside Italy which boasts
two Michelin stars. Carlo also balances this with running
his own Milan-based Ristorante Cracco with hosting Hell’s
Kitchen Italia and being a Master Chef judge.
OVO’s executive chef and Carlo’s right hand is Emanuele
Pollini. The restaurant\'s name means ‘egg’ in Italian, and
as you might expect eggs are a signature ingredient of
Cracco. In OVO’s kitchen Italian and Russian products
are masterfully combined, with Pollini arriving in Moscow
a few months before the restaurant opened to find
the best suppliers. Among the dishes OVO offers are
crunchy cannelloni salad with Kamchatka crab and
puttanesca sauce, spaghetti with sea urchin and coffee,
and Jerusalem artichoke soup with parsley and smoked
sour curd.
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2 Bld., 8 Novinskiy Blvd.
+7 495 745 1000
www.lottehotel.ru
A special menu for weddings and other events and
celebrations from the OVO team is available on request,
as part of the services of the Lotte Wedding and Event
Bureau. This service organises weddings and other events
in collaboration with the best Moscow-based professionals,
including interior decorators, wedding ateliers, make-up
artists and photographers. Six versatile halls and the large
lobby are used for celebrations. The service’s professionals
can also develop the concept and script for your event,
organise an entertainment programme and take on logistics
tasks.
All this makes the Lotte Hotel Moscow more than a deluxe
hotel – it’s your dependable partner in arranging your most
important events.
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GIANNI PERONI IS THE FOUNDER OF G&B,
A FASHION GROUP COMPRISING OF UPSCALE
MULTIBRAND AND MONOBRAND BOUTIQUES IN THE
NORTH OF ITALY. THE GROUP INCLUDES BOUTIQUES
IN BRESCIA, COURMAYEUR, TURIN, AOSTA, PONTE
DI LEGNO AND FLERO
ITALIAN STYLE IS UNIQUE BECAUSE OF ITS REGARD
FOR THE MOST MINUTE DETAILS.WE’RE VERY METICU-
LOUS, CREATIVE,AND INNOVATIVE,AND WE
VALUE OUR HISTORY
As with any expert, a good buyer must be determined,
and prepared to learn and work relentlessly, to achieve
their goals.
The work of buyers won’t change considerably in the
future. At most, their functions will expand, meaning that
they’ll have to work more closely with the staff of the
stores they’re buying for.
Online stores will never replace offline
shopping completely. The essence of
offline boutiques may change, as they will
be able to offer exclusive items.
What makes a boutique unique is having
the right approach to the customers and
offering them the service of their own
personal-shopping venue.
What inspires me most about my job is
people: the way they behave and the way
they spend money.
Sport connects my work and
personal life.
Italian style is unique because of its regard
for the most minute details. We’re very
meticulous, creative, and innovative, and
we value our history.
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Gianni Peroni
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TEXT: Michela Zio
BEING A BUYER
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A N D P L A C E O R D E R S O N L I N E
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