buyer february 2016
Buyer february 2016
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F a l l / W i n t e r 2 016 -17: t r e n d s , t a l e n t s , f a s h i o n w e e k s , f a i r s
F E B R U A R Y 2 0 1 6
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8 FASHION NEWS
The latest updates from the industry
14 BEPPE ANGIOLINI
The vision behind the success
of the Sugar buyer
20 ALICIA VIKANDER
The muse of Louis Vuitton talks
about cinema and fashion
DESIGNERS
26 ALESSANDRO DELL’ ACQUA
N°21 and Rochas creative director
of on his approach to fashion design
30 WOMEN PRE-FALL 2016
From excess of colours to minimalism
of shapes
36 YOUNG DESIGNERS
10 Italian talents taking industry
by storm
42 MEN FALL 2016
Classics reinvented on the runway
46 CONSCIOUS FASHION
The big names in eco-friendly fashion
STRATEGIES
62 ONLINE STORE
Avenue 32 on the importance
of research and content marketing
68 VIA DEL BUYER
Online wholesale platform created
on the needs of buyers
70 TREND FORECASTING
Women, men and children
collections to buy for Fall 2016
74 LUISA VIA ROMA
International success born in Italy
78 RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION
President Elena Bugranova
presents its mission
EVENTS
88 PITTI UOMO
The universe of male elegance
in Florence
92 PITTI BIMBO
The numbers and the trends in
kids’ fashion
96 FASHION FAIRS
The calendar of professional
appointments for the season
100 FASHION WEEKS
Overview of fashion destinations
around the globe
CONTENTS
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Editor in chief
Marina Bugranova
Executive editor
Galia Milovzorova
Fashion editor
Anastasia Khvatova
Art director
Lior Susana
Graphic designer
Daria Elagina
Copy editors
Jen Rouse
Maya Svetlova
Translators
Anna Slavuskaya
Natalya Rigvava
Maria Slautina
Contributors
Alisa Nesterova
Marta Topolskaya
Tatiana Rosenstein
Paolo Briscese
CONTACTS
For advertising enquiries
Commercial director
Asya Tatevosyan
asya@buyer.world
For editorial and other enquiries
Administrative director
Maria Sakharchuk
maria@buyer.world
www.buyer.world
BUYER
February 2016
Buyer magazine is created specifically for the
needs and interests of fashion buyers. With
separate editions published in English and
Russian, it features wholesale industry news,
trend reports and interviews with buying and
retail experts.
Beppe Angiolini
Photo Lior Susana
Hair and MUA Eleonora Zanetti
Photo assistant Lorenzo Formicola
Supported by
Print Radin print d.o.o.
Gospodarska 9, HR
10431 Sveta Nadelja
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M.Bugranova
There’s usually a significant difference between what you see in glossy
magazines and what is sold in boutiques, unless you’re in New York or
Paris. Fashion media is a great source of inspiration, presenting fashion
as art, but the gift of the buyer is, on the contrary, being able to find the
sweet spot between designers’ fantasies and what will be comfortable
and practical in everyday life. Catwalks and showrooms are pretty differ-
ent places, and our magazine focuses on the needs of the professional
responsible for picking out the pieces that will enhance the beauty of
every woman and provide comfort and elegance to every man.
The modern market, so packed with goods on offer, only has space
for the strongest specialists, who have found the right compromise
between the needs of their customers and their individual approach.
Today’s buyer is often an entrepreneur, a creative director and a sales
and marketing manager all at the same time.The buying profession is
multifaceted, tough and interesting, which is why we want to share with
you some ideas on how to manage your business better, buy smarter
and enjoy it all even more.
For the first issue of Buyer we’ve quizzed the people behind the main
boutiques of Italy about their know-how, together with the buyers
of some important online stores. Of course we’re getting ready for
the fashion week season, so we’ve also prepared show schedules
and advice for you to make the most of your trip to the new-entry
fashion capitals, from Moscow to Tokyo.You can also flick through next
autumn’s trends and our selection of young and talented designers.
Good reading and buying!
Marina Bugranova
Buyer and editor in chief
BEING
A BUYER
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FASHION NEWS
COACH WINS BACK LOST PRESTIGE
The image of this American brand has been suffering for the past few years due to
its active participation in discount sales. But the quick sales revenue this generated
came at a price: the label began to be perceived as a brand for mass consumption
rather than an exclusive luxury brand, an image Coach had previously enjoyed since
1941. The company has now charted their course back to the top with the hire of
star designer Stuart Vevers, the reduction of discount sales down to a minimum, and
the closing of stores in shopping centres in favour of flagship stores. The results are
already apparent: sales of high-end items are growing, and the company’s stocks are
up 12%.
N°21 ENTERS MARKET
FOR KIDS
The successful Italian label N°21 also
presented its first children’s line in
January of this year at Pitti Bimbo in
Florence. ‘The N°21 Kids Collection
was born as an answer to many
requests from clients, friends, and
stores and is also a new challenge
for the company,’ said Alessandro
Dell’Acqua, founder and director of
the fashion house. Prior to this new
move the N°21 label debuted at
Milan Fashion Week in 2012 with a
women’s collection, and added a
men’s line in 2014.
GILES DEACON MOVES
TOWARDS HAUTE
COUTURE
Fashion designer Giles Deacon an-
nounced that he is to specialise in high-
end fashion and temporarily close his line
of everyday wear. ‘We want to focus on
what we do well, and maximise the suc-
cess of the red carpet and private client
work we’ve been doing over the past four
years.’ In the upcoming season Deacon
will skip London Fashion Week and will
instead present his new collection at
Haute Couture in Paris.
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LA PERLA HAS A NEW CREATIVE
DIRECTOR
Pedro Lourenco is not new to the fashion world. Before
this new position, he worked at Lanvin and Giambattista
Valli. Now the designer has set to work at La Perla, the
luxury Italian lingerie label, and his first fall/winter 2016
collection can be seen at the end of February during
Milan Fashion Week. ‘I’ve always admired the La Perla
label and the philosophy of its founder, Ada Masotti,
as well as their perfect symmetry of femininity and
modernity,’ says Lourenco.
BALMAIN TO LAUNCH CHILDREN’S LINE
The French fashion house Balmain plans to present a children’s line
in June 2016. Judging by the first photo released on Balmain’s official
website, Balmain Kids reflects the individual style of this fashion house.
The house’s creative director, Olivier Rousteing, created the children’s line
as well as the main collection. In the early stages, clothing sales for young
fashionistas will take place directly in Balmain boutiques and through
their online store.
NORDSTROM TO OPEN SECOND
NEW DEPARTMENT STORE IN
NEW YORK
Nordstrom, the popular luxury class store, has
not even opened the doors of its first full store
in Manhattan yet, but has already decided to
build a second store. In 2018 they are planning to
open a huge seven-storey department store with
26,500m2 of space on 57th Street. Not too far away,
on Columbus Circle, the company has already
bought 4,000m2 of space for a second store. These
Nordstrom stores will be neighbours with such
business giants as Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, and
Saks.
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THE BFC/VOGUE FASHION FUND ANNOUNCES CAN-
DIDATES FOR 2016 PRIZE
Emilia Wickstead, Mother of Pearl, Osman, Prism, and Sophia Webster are the
candidates competing for the grand prize: a year’s mentoring programme and
£200,000 to help them take their businesses to the next level. Previous winners of the
prize include designers Mary Katrantzou, Erdem, Peter Pilotto, and Christopher Kane.
NEW INTELTECHNOLOGY
MAY CHANGE THE RETAIL
WORLD FOREVER
Innovative new technology called RealSense is
about to take the guesswork out of shopping
and revolutionise retail.The program takes
3D measurements of buyers and then
recommends the appropriate size, making
choosing clothes and shoes easier and more
effective than ever before.The technology
will even save information in its system so that
the client can make future purchases online
without worrying about getting the wrong
size. RealSense is already in used at Brooks
Brothers and Nordstrom.
STREET RETAIL INCREASES IN MOSCOW
According to a report by Colliers International, at the end of 2015, the percentage of free
retail space on the main central commerce streets in Moscow was 11%, substantially lower
than previous years.This positive dynamic comes against a backdrop of a 25-30% drop in
rental rates for those properties in highest demand in the city. However, it’s not the same
story everywhere. For example, on Stoleshnikovy Lane, traditionally home to many high-end
boutiques, the number of vacant rental properties has, conversely, increased.
ERES OPENS FIRST STORE
IN SAINT PETERSBURG
Eres, the French women’s lingerie and
swimwear brand owned by Chanel, will open
a new store in the centre of St. Petersburg on
Nevsky Prospect.This will be their fifth store in
Russia and the first outside Moscow. ‘Nevsky
Prospect continues to prove its popularity with
retailers, regardless of the economic downturn.
The demand for rental properties here is slowly
returning,’ commented Anna Lapchenko, a
brand consultant on rental properties in the
northern capital.
FASHION NEWS
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JIMMY CHOO
CONQUERS JAPAN
The fashion brand Jimmy Choo
shared news of a hike in sales
in Asia in 2015, particularly in
Japan. This includes the brand’s
line of designer men’s shoes,
though women’s heels still
hold the bestseller spot. Jimmy
Choo’s business is also going
well in the United States despite
fierce competition and differ-
ences in exchange rates. But
there are some losses as well
– the company is seeing a drop
in sales in Europe. This is due
to a decrease in the number of
Russian buyers as a result of the
country’s economic crisis.
RUSSIAN SHOE COMPANIES END
PARTNERSHIPS WITH TURKEY
Nadezhda Demidova, General Director of the National Shoe
Union, recently reported that large shoe brands such as Zenden,
Tervolina,Yunichel, and Ekonika, who even last year were
actively partnering with Turkish suppliers and producers, have
stopped doing business with the country. Even though official
sanctions do not pertain to this sector, companies have already
experienced many problems at customs and have decided not
to risk it. Instead they’re setting their sights on products from
China, Romania, Brazil, and other countries.
THE RIGHT STRATEGY FOR RAY-BAN
Over a period of 15 years, Luxottica, a giant in the eyewear business
that owns the Ray-Ban label, has been able to revive the once fading
popularity of aviator glasses, significantly improve price positioning,
and bring about a more than tenfold increase in sales.The latest
news is the recent opening of their first Ray-Ban flagship store, in the
prestigious SoHo district of New York.The secret to their success is a
precise brand development strategy whose key elements are high
quality glasses made in Italy and continuing technological innovation.
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INTERVIEW: Marina Bugranova
PHOTO: Lior Susana
BEPPE ANGIOLINI, FOUNDER OF THE SUGAR BOUTIQUE AND HONORARY
PRESIDENT OF CAMERA DEI BUYER, REVEALS HOW HIS OUTLOOK ON
FASHION HAS MADE HIM ONE OF THE MOST INFLUENTIAL BUYERS IN ITALY
THE ‘WRONG’ FASHION
How did the story of Sugar begin?
Sugar was born when I was still a university student. I loved
fashion, art and beauty and I had been a careful observer
ever since childhood − I had this thing for being attentive
towards everything around me. Having said that, one day
I decided to open a small boutique, a shop in Corso Italia,
in the historic centre of Arezzo. It featured very unique and
sophisticated items, maybe too forward for the beginning
of the eighties. After two years of struggle, I left everything
else behind to dive into the world of fashion completely
and that was when Sugar started to take off. At first I
invested, sowing and then harvesting. The opening of
our internationally recognised trend-setting boutique in
Arezzo is very special to me and is a reward for my long-
term commitment to the world of fashion.
How do you think the work of the buyer has evolved
through the years?
It has become more challenging because the mood
of the fashion system has changed. I remember how
easy it was in the past to place an order without risks
or worries involved. Today, buyers need to be able to
make better choices, since the final customer is much
more demanding and specific about the purchase. In the
past, we used to buy top brands in complete freedom.
What is really important today is the ability to mix up
products. The key word is identity, and buyers need to
personalise their space and send a clear message to
the final customer. This applies to everyone: from the
designer who creates the product to the press and the
manufacturer.
The buyer is the person who brings the designers’
creations to the street. It is a very important job and
now more than ever we need to communicate our DNA.
The looks we choose need to be diverse and we need
to team apparel with jewellery or a hat so it becomes
exclusive. After all, luxury itself is exclusive. I’m not a fan
of showing off luxury for its own sake. Instead I believe
we need to create a democratic and intelligent luxury.
Fashion is beauty and we need to help people express
a unique and clear style, because this is more important
than trends. This is the strength of a modern buyer: the
ability to make good purchases, mix them up well and
create a style.
Your shops have a strong identity. Is it mainly strategy or
intuition that drives you?
It is a dream. I have travelled the world extensively and
have always been drawn to beauty and art. After all,
fashion is a form of art and to me putting together a
display window means expressing myself. The same
happens when an artist paints or a designer puts
together a runway show. My windows have often been
photographed and my shop is a container, a box that
changes its appearance and atmosphere every six
months. I think I have to create an emotion for the
passers-by because it is the most powerful trigger.
How do you create a personal style?
In 2016 what convinces me the most is the concept of
‘wrong’ fashion. I don’t like it when things are too perfect
and thought out. What we need is something
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‘wrong’, and that means personality. It doesn’t matter if
the fashion item you are wearing is not the right one.
It’s actually even better when it isn’t. When your look is
too perfect, too much the way the designer intended,
what is missing is your own energy, the creative flow
that belongs to you or to your style consultant. The
‘wrong’ fashion is the weapon of the moment and it is a
winner in every circumstance. Perfection in fashion is an
outdated myth.
How do you make a selection of brands for the
boutiques?
Brands selection is essential in our job because
everything else depends on it. The process I follow is
mainly emotional, but also pre-planned to a degree, as
the final goal is to sell the product. Balance of quality-
product-price on one hand and creativity on the other
is essential. When I choose an item I never have a
particular customer in mind, but I always pick what I like
and what fits in the context of my container. Sometimes
I don’t even look at the price tag − I like the product
and that’s it. I’m not a rational person and this applies to
every single aspect of my life. Sometimes it can be a flaw
and sometimes a strength, it depends.
How do you find new brands and trends?
Finding new brands today is much easier than it was in
the past. The world is so globalised that you can find
anything within seconds. Today, it is enough simply
to switch on a computer, whereas in the past I literally
had to track down products on trips around the world,
visiting galleries in Paris, New York or London. Milan
is also an influential city in the fashion world, but
sometimes Italians are not that good at creating the
glamour that other cities are surrounded by. The whole
world envies us for our artistic heritage, we are creative
people and have great minds, but are unfortunately
often unable to make the most of it.
New York, Paris, London, Los Angeles and Berlin are
bustling cities where younger generations belonging to
different cultures create style and trends. Fashion takes
inspiration from the street and then brings it back to the
street. The street teaches us and gives us input when we
look at people on their way to work or out on the town
at night. I often look around trying to capture something
and make it mine. What we see inspires us , then we
transform it to make it our own and maybe create a new
message, for example, for our shop windows.
In fashion the one thing that is really insulting is
copying. We finally live in a free world and freedom
includes the opportunity to wear simple fashion
apparel, pieces found in a market, vintage or capsules
of young designers. Mixing up is good, but copying is
unacceptable. While we should all look up to the most
talented designers and catch their essence, what we
need to come up with in the end is a personal version of
it all. This is what Sugar has done over the years. I’m not
saying I have invented anything here, but I have always
been inspired by the world. I believe that my strength
lies in the fact that I have been able to create my own
world, clean and essential, and made special by details.
It is simple and refined with an eye to the tradition that
I love.
What is the right balance between top brands and
young designers?
To me top brands are very important. Behind a brand there
I DON’T LIKE IT WHEN THINGS ARE TOO PERFECTAND
THOUGHT OUT.WHEN YOUR LOOK IS TOO PERFECT,
TOO MUCH THE WAYTHE DESIGNER INTENDED,
WHAT IS MISSING IS YOUR OWN ENERGY
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is so much hard work: six months of research and study
for a collection.. I have had the chance to see first hand in
some well-known companies how much effort goes into
production. But nowadays there is a wider picture of the
industry that needs to be taken into consideration. I have
often been part of contests such as Who’s On Next and have
noticed that a common mistake among young people is
trying really hard to come up with something amazing to
catch everyone’s eye. Contemporary fashion doesn’t need
excess. It needs research, style and polish. It needs a clear-
cut identity.Today, loud fashion is not in fashion.True style
is made of details and of little things put together and it is
beautiful when it becomes one with the person wearing it
and when it helps you be yourself.
When a blogger wears something only to be photographed
it is worth nothing, because with street style the weirder you
look, the more successful you become. Excess is part of
the game sometimes − after all, it\'s important to be able to
reinvent ourselves. We’ve never achieved our full potential
and there is nothing worse than believing we are the best.
There is always a new goal to reach and this is the reason
why it is so important to reinvent ourselves without altering
our identity. Fashion is made to be changed, to facilitate
innovation, and to look forward.
CONTEMPORARY FASHION DOESN’T NEED
EXCESS. IT NEEDS A CLEAR-CUT IDENTITY.TODAY,
LOUD FASHION IS NOT IN FASHION
In the modern world there are countless styles, designers
who create and manufacturers who produce.The variety is
limitless, and well-executed and interesting fashion pieces
can be found everywhere. What you have to do is look
deeper inside, dive into a collection and spot the actual
idea, the inspiration and the main theme. It is necessary to
find a young designer with a clear message and then mix
his creations with someone else’s. A brilliant buyer reads the
designer’s mind and never picks a brand with an unclear
essence.
Are there any future projects you’re particularly looking
forward to?
I am a huge fan of the creative process. I was once
contacted by the Venice Biennale to set up an exhibition, a
sort of summary of the fashion and art displayed in my
shop windows. They wanted to dedicate it to that kind
of short-term art, since a window can be considered a
form of art to some extent. So I recreated several Sugar
boutique windows with a beginning and an end date.
They were meant to represent a form of art drawing to
end; a temporary image followed by another.
We are currently building a new space in Arezzo, a
historic building dating back to the XV century which we
hope will become a meeting place for fashion and art
lovers. Clothing will be surrounded by design objects
and its presence will be very discreet. Last year, during
the construction works and the excavations, we found
180 m2 of wonderful mosaics from the first century. It
turned out to be a Roman Domus! I’m thinking of using
this space for the work of young artists engaged in
different fields and to organise exhibitions and events.
By the end of the year, this incredible place will host the
new headquarters of Sugar, where fashion will live side
by side with other highly researched pieces and where
events and many moments of human sharing will take
place.
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INTERVIEW: Tatiana Rosenstein
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
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What makes your character Gerda such a heroine?
It is inspirational to see a woman who has the ability to show true
and unconditional love: someone who would sacrifice her needs
for the happiness of another person. Even if this other person were
to disappear and be replaced by someone new and unknown.
This kind of devotion is extremely admirable. Personally, I have
even questioned if this kind of love is possible. But this is what Tom
(director – Tom Hooper) saw in my character and I had to embody
his vision! I am very proud of my Gerda. ‘The Danish Girl’ portrays
one of the most sincere and complex love stories I have ever read
and I am proud that I was able to create such a deeply loving
person, whose example I could never live up to in reality. I do not
think I could be as self-sacrificing and loving as my heroine Gerda.
It is fascinating how independent your character is as a woman
and an artist living a century ago, while we are still questioning
whether we women are independent enough nowadays!
I think the ideal of complete female emancipation is still far from
reality. I work in a male-dominated industry and I have to say,
during the last four productions I haven’t even done a single scene
with another woman! On the other hand, I am a hard-working
woman myself, independent and successful I hope, and this is
made possible by the huge advantages and progress of our time.
You are a hard-working woman. Do you have time for yourself, to
enjoy life or to go out?
I’ve been doing a lot for the past five to six years, but I am happy
to have work. This summer, I finally had some time off. So I used it
to go out, meet my friends for dinner, to cook for them, to spend
time with my family and to watch movies. But as soon as I started
to watch anything, I become so excited about the many talented
directors out there that I admire and with whom I would like to
work. And once again, I started thinking about work and about
how quickly I could go back!
Do you frequently visit Sweden?
I haven’t been to Sweden since I started working abroad.
It’s been almost five years. I talk on the phone a lot with my
family. And they are very supportive and understanding, they
constantly tell me that nothing would have happened if I had
stayed in the same place just waiting for an opportunity. But it
is hard not to have a home anywhere, and it is always difficult
to jump around from one project to another. For the first
two years, I was really scared because despite meeting great
people and having a huge team around you, making films can
be lonely. Now, after many years of intense work, I have even
started recognising people on set. Like in ‘The Danish Girl’, I
probably knew 30 or 40 people from the crew even among
lighting technicians or make-up assistants. I mean, Stockholm
is a gorgeous city, but very few of my friends still live there.
My closest friends, who I grew up with, are now based in Los
Angeles, New York, London or Paris. Which is great, because I
see them much more often – just not back home in Sweden.
Is it true that you become an actress after giving up a dancing
career?
At the age of 15 I moved to Stockholm to study at the Royal
Swedish Ballet School. I am still very grateful for that amazing
time, because ballet taught me a lot, like self-reliance, how
to move or to take up space in a room. However I still have a
back injury, and I don’t think I’ll ever recover enough to dance
professionally.
THE GLAMOROUS PREMIERE OF ‘THE DANISH GIRL’, STARRING EDDIE REDMAYNE AS THE
TRANSGENDER PIONEER LILI ELBE AND ALICIA VIKANDER AS ELBEN’S WIFE GERDA, TOOK
PLACE DURING THE 72ND INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL IN VENICE. THE SWEDISH MOVIE
STAR AND LOUIS VUITTON’S LATEST MUSE, ALICIA VIKANDER, IS POSSIBLY THE HOTTEST YOUNG
ACTRESS IN THE WORLD RIGHT NOW. WE HAD A CHAT WITH HER ABOUT HER WORK AND HER
PASSION FOR HAUTE COUTURE
MEET LOUIS VUITTON\'S
MUSE
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"THE DANISH GIRL" PREMIERE AT THE VENICE BIENNALE
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Yesterday, during the premiere of the movie, you
stepped out on the red carpet in a marvellous Louis
Vuitton dress, a sort of Northern folk costume…
That dress is very special, from the Louis Vuitton Resort
2016 line. I haven’t seen many dresses like this worn for
a film premiere. I felt like I was on the red carpet not
as myself, but as some heroine on a film set in some
fantasy movie or in a fairy tale. I loved it.
Tell us about your everyday style, your tastes?
When it comes to my everyday fashion, I value comfort
and I love casual style. People often tell me – well not in
Sweden, but abroad – that my style is too simple. Just
trousers and blouses, often black. When it comes to real
performance, shooting, premiere or official events I do
love nice dresses, but then it’s usually my stylists picking
out outfits for me.
When was your first contact with the world of fashion,
with haute couture?
It was three years ago at the Cannes Film Festival. We
were celebrating the release of the film \'A Royal Affair\'
until the morning hours when I got a message to take
a flight to Cannes to do a press conference. I didn’t
even have time to pack anything, and when I arrived in
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LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2016
LOUIS VUITTON CRUISE 2016
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Cannes I was invited to a premiere. So I ended up having to
borrow a Valentino gown. I remember entering the suite of
Valentino in Cannes and stylists showed me several dresses.
But I had no idea what choice to make. Every dress was so
beautiful, so I closed my eyes; I was blushing and blindly
pointed at some dress. And they started to dress me in this
hand-made masterpiece with 60 buttons. While they were
doing up those buttons I remember I even held my breath at
one point! The dress was made for a tall model and there was
no time to alter it, so I needed to wear incredibly high heels. I
remember, I took my shoes off in the cinema and by the time
the credits rolled on the screen, I could not get my shoes
back on because my feet were so swollen. I did not want to
ruin my first red carpet in Cannes by walking out the cinema
barefoot. So I stayed in the cinema while my agent left to get
me another pair of shoes! It was my first experience with haute
couture. However since then, I’ve been eager to meet those
artists; I wanted to know more about fashion. Because this
experience taught me how complex and extraordinary real
fashion can be.
I hope you had better experiences afterwards!
Of course I hadmany wonderful experiences afterwards!
For example I was recently invited to the annual Met Ball
in New York. I used to dream about this event when I was a
teenager. Attending it this year with Louis Vuitton’s creative
director Nicolas Ghesquière in a gorgeous silver couture
gown he designed for me was both surreal and enjoyable: an
experience I will never forget.
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MARCH
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OC TOBER
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/DESIGNERS
" I l i k e t h e p r o c e s s o f t u r n i n g i d e a s i n t o s o m e t h i n g
c o n c r e t e , a s w e l l a s a n o p p o r t u n i t y t o m a k e s o m e t h i n g
c r e a t i v e ."
A l e s s a n d r o D e l l ’A c q u a
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f N o 2 1 p r e s s o f f i c e
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
WE ASKED THE FOUNDER OF THE BRAND N°21 ALESSANDRO DELL’ACQUA ABOUT HIS
VIEW OF ITALIAN QUALITYAND THE FASHION INDUSTRY’S FUTURE
A DESIGNER SHOULDN’T BE
NOSTALGIC
21? It’s my birthday. It’s become my lucky number over
time.
Your creations celebrate feminine beauty and elegance.
Your vision of creativity seems very instinctive and
natural, as if ideas crossed your mind without any effort.
INTERVIEW: Paolo Briscese
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Your brand, N°21, is gaining
in popularity, not only in Italy,
but also abroad. Why did you
choose the number 21? Does
it have a special meaning for
you?
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Where do you get your inspiration from?
For me inspiration can spring from completely differ-
ent places. Often, an idea comes from a strong im-
pression caused by some affair or event. If this feeling
gets stuck in your head, there is a big chance that it
will turn into something more. It can be an obsession
with the cinema, for example. I\'m a big movie buff, but
I’m also keen on the female silhouettes, sophistication
and sensuality of the actresses of Italian neorealism.
I’m also enthusiastic about the style and refined taste
of Milan’s elite society. All of it becomes a sketch of
future ideas that afterward takes on its specific forms
and volumes, and eventually turns into a fully fledged
collection.
What qualities, in your opinion, should a fashion
brand possess to be noticed and appreciated?
Designers should be able to join the flow of new
events and trends. The main thing any creator must
avoid is getting stuck in the past. I think following
these rules is the starting point for brand develop-
ment. The fashion world is constantly changing, so
you must always be open to new developments.
Which aspect of your job do you like most and which
do you not like?
I like the process of turning ideas into something con-
crete, as well as an opportunity to make something
creative. The thing I like least about my job is social
engagements full of camera flashbulbs and so on.
N°21 PRE-FALL 2016
N°21 PRE-FALL 2016 N°21 PRE-FALL 2016
B U Y E R
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For example, when I look at the images created by
myself ten years ago, I absolutely do not feel nostal-
gia. On the contrary, I quite calmly understand that
I always need to move on in spite of everything. My
desire to create and my aesthetic taste still remain
unchanged. Today, I still opt for things every woman
needs in her everyday life instead of something ex-
travagant and loud just for the catwalk.
How do you manage to follow fashion trends and
keep the classic, artisan approach to business at the
same time? These two things seem incompatible.
Over the years I have become a realist and a prag-
matist. I no longer dream of catwalk shows similar to
the real performances. I\'m trying to create collections
aimed at consumers. Today, much has changed in our
business. Nowadays a designer should be not only
You took on the role of creative director for the
French brand Rochas in 2013. What does having your
work valued so highly mean to you?
Being a man over 50, I’m so happy to be in such an
important place. In fact, I was very surprised at Rochas\'
choice, as there are a lot of talented and younger de-
signers around. But the fact that I was taken onboard
is testament to the great importance of the ‘Made in
Italy’ label. We continue to do a good job, and due to
this we’re well known far beyond our home country.
At the age of 23 you were entrusted with the position
of creative director at Genny. Which changes that oc-
curred during this time in the world of fashion were
the most important?
There were very many of them. Some were very obvi-
ous, while the others weren’t noticeable at first glance.
ROCHAS PRE-FALL 2016
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ALESSANDRO DELL\'ACQUA
The founder of N°21 Dell\'Ac-
qua is one of the brightest
personalities in the Italian fashion
industry. Since 2013 he has been
working as the creative director
for the French brand Rochas.
His influence on the company’s
style is obvious. Alessandro
capably combines masculine
and feminine elements, creating
aesthetically perfect clothing
combinations. The designer is
passionate about experimen-
tation, but at the same time, he
remains true to the best traditions
of dressmaking.
an entrepreneur and manager, but feed his creative
vision as well.
What do you think about fashion\'s low cost networks
and the growing affordability of designer items?
Many high fashion brands have already evolved. Apart
from exclusive collections and podium stuff, they have
begun to create more ready-to-wear lines. Moreover,
now you can get whatever you want via the internet.
So the consumer’s attitude to shopping is changing as
well. And we must take this into account.
You often travel abroad.
What does travelling mean
to you?
My head is often up in the
clouds, even if I keep still.
But travelling is, first of all,
a process of discovery for
me. It slakes my curiosity as
well as my emotional thirst.
It is a very challenging and
fascinating experience.
Do you think any Italian
brand is ready for genera-
tional change?
I would say this change is
necessary. There are no oth-
er options. We must become
more united, work systemat-
ically, and continue to think
creatively. We need to sup-
port young and promising
designers, promote close
cooperation between private
and public sectors, and hold
events in the world of fash-
ion. Italy is a treasure that is
yet to be fully discovered,
this is particularly so with the
fashion industry.
Your world is full of emo-
tions, discoveries and
learning. Do you have an
ultimate goal?
Investigations and learning
still go on. I do not want
to feel like a man who has
already done everything in
his life. I will always strive
for new experiments and
sensations. Fashion is an
exciting world full of passion.
And we, designers, become
its reflection.
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SHEER
MADNESS
EVERYTHING YOU THOUGHTYOU KNEW ABOUT
FASHION HAS BEEN TURNED ON ITS HEAD IN
THE LATEST COLLECTIONS: WHAT WAS ONCE
CONSIDERED TO BE DATED IS NOW ULTRA-
FASHIONABLE. LEADING BRANDS SETTHE TREND
FOR THE NEW SEASON, CALLING FOR US TO TAKE
FASHION TIPS FROM OUR MOTHERS… EVEN OUR
GRANDMOTHERS!
This unusual hunger for old-fashioned and sometimes funny trends
appeared a few seasons ago with the arrival of the new Gucci Creative
Director,Alessandro Michele. It was he who was responsible for a
complete transformation of the Italian luxury house, which concurrently
transformed ‘granny chic’ into a key trend of the season. Gucci’s
‘grannies’ definitely enjoyed their youth in the 70s. Knitted jackets over
blouses with cambric collars and bows, elongated cardigans, loose
pleated knee-length skirts or even below-the-knee skirts, typical 70s
decoration and fun applique – the autumn will see it all come tumbling
out like old yellowed photos from the family albums.
But it’s not only Alessandro Michele who’s on a 70s tip; other designers
Diane Von Furstenberg Pre-Fall 2016
No 21 Pre-Fall 2016
Fendi Pre-Fall 2016
Red V
a
lentino Pre-Fall 2016
Alberta Ferretti
Pre-Fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
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are also exploring the archives. So we catch Alessandro Dell\'Acqua reminiscing
about the charm of knitted, printed below-the-knee dresses in the collection for his
brand No. 21; Diane von Fürstenberg presents multicoloured elongated cardigans in
combination with motley jumpers and skirts; the Italian brand Vivetta gives us practical
brown suits to be worn with checkered bow-collared blouses; Fendi and Delpozo,
in turn, give new life to voluminous robe coats with particular colours. Speaking of
colours, ditsy florals, abstracts and checked designs are favourites this season.The
garments’ colour scheme includes deep shades of earth and aubergine, orange,
grey and coffee, in a final youthful fling.The new season’s fashion allows layering,
combinations of incompatible things and a childlike youthfulness – and immaturity –
when choosing a dress.
According to the designers’ basic rules, modern granny outfits should be
supplemented by knitted tights, spacious reticules and wide patent leather boots
or comfortable chunky-heeled shoes.And, of course, a kerchief is an indispensable
attribute of the following autumn – it can be used as a neckerchief, as a pioneer tie, or
put on handbag handle. But the best way of wearing a kerchief is tying it around your
head like our grandmothers used to do.
Gucci Pre-Fall 2016
Moschino Pre-Fall 2016
Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2016
Valentino Pre-Fall 2016
Delpozo Pre-Fall 2016
1) A key combination for the following autumn is a vest or a jumper over a cambic turn-down collar blouse.
2) Another particular style is teaming large glasses and knitted berets.
3) The hem length of skirts or dresses should be below the knee but above the ankle.This is the key feature of
new granny chic.
4) Don’t forget the embellishments on the outerwear of the season from RED Valentino,Alexander McQueen
and Gucci.
Style tips
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A MINIMALIST
PROGRAMME
IN COUNTERBALANCE TO THE RAGE FOR
PRETENTIOUSNESS AND STYLISTICALLY OVERLOADED
IMAGES,A GROUP OF DESIGNERS ARE DEFENDING THE
PRINCIPLES OF MINIMALISM WHERE ECHOES OF THE 90S
CAN CLEARLY BE HEARD
Strict silhouettes, perfect proportions, clean cuts and understated details like
asymmetrical hems and geometric cutouts – this is the minimalism of the
coming autumn. In principle, it is not much different from previous seasons,
except that the fascination with the 90s of Calvin Klein’s heyday has become
more obvious.
Distinctive features of the new minimalism include mostly straight cut skirts,
slim fitted jackets, loose fitted trousers and, in most cases, monochrome. Black,
white, grey – they are at the opposite sides of life philosophy but almost always
together in fashion.These colour combinations, coupled with neutral beige
and blue easily evade all charges of monotony or dullness, thanks to their self-
sufficient design.
Amid grandiose images of the 70s, minimalistic outfits from Nina Ricci,Antonio
Berardi and Narciso Rodriguez look strict and natural.Tight-fitting turtlenecks
Prabal Gurung Pre-Fall 2016
Paco Rabanne Pre-Fall 2016
Altuzarra Pre-Fall 2016
Jason W
u Pre-Fall 2016
Marni Pre-Fall 2016
Versace Pre-Fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
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Michael Kors Pre-Fall 2016
Hervé Léger Pre-Fall 2016
Mugler Pre-Fall 2016
Ralph Lauren Pre-Fall 2016
1) Watch out for wide leg jumpsuits – they will be a great seller in the coming season.
2) Loose culottes featuring smooth fabrics, like in Marni collection, are perfectly combined with strict jackets.
3) Riding boots are a perfect partner for minimalistic straight dresses.
4) Asymmetrical cuts, cutouts on shoulders and sides, uneven hems – all these details make a simple dress
more exquisite and unusual.
Style tips
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
Versace Pre-Fall 2016
Diesel Black Gold
Pre-Fall 2016
in combination with straight dresses are the must-have from Jason Wu’s collection for
Boss; the best sport jackets with voluminous shoulders in addition to straight trousers
and understated coats were made by Donatella Versace for Versace; and for the
evening seek out a slip dress without extra decor or accessories, just like Michael Kors
or Altuzarra have in their collections.
Formal day dresses also have distinctive features of restraint and external simplicity. In
this sense, Ralph Lauren has an exemplary collection.Almost completely comprised
of a powdery beige colour, it consists of daily images such as coats and formal
jackets, office dresses and certainly some sophisticated evening outfits. Calvin Klein’s
collection is full of relaxed minimalism: perfect cuts, light textures, loose and easy
silhouettes, while Diesel’s Black Gold collection has distinct sport motifs.
In general, restraint is a winning and thoughtful move on behalf of the designers,
offering a graphic clarity and simplicity that doesn’t annoy from season to season,
making a bet on these outfits a great investment.
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38
01 SCHIELD
Jewellery designer Roberto Ferlito is from
Sicily but lives and works in Florence. He
draws on the experience of the most skilled
jewellery craftsmen in his avant-garde
collections. All pieces are 100% made in
Italy.
02 COLIAC
Martina Grasselli founded her brand
in 2009 and since that time has being
creating shoe-jewels with pearls, colourful
gems and pins which substitute for laces.
Previously she worked with such brands as
Stella McCartney, Jean Paul Gaultier and
Christian Louboutin.
03 BLAZÉ MILANO
When Corrada, Delfina and Sole met at
the Elle Italia office – and realised that they
shared the same passion for blazers – a new
brand, entirely dedicated to this women\'s
garment, was born. All Blazé jackets are made
to order and crafted from the best European
fabrics. Everything that usually ends up in your
handbag can be carried easily in their wide
pockets.
01
02
03
Schield
Blazé Milano
Coliac
THE YOUNG GUARD
HATS OF ALL POSSIBLE SHAPES, SHOE-JEWELS AND
HANDBAGS WITH LEGO BRICK APPLIQUE – WE’VE
CHOSEN FOR YOU TEN OF THE BRIGHTEST NEW NAMES
TO RECENTLY ENTER THE FASHION WORLD
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39
04 ULTRÀCHIC
It all started in 2006 with a very small collection of cashmere
scarves, printed with the colours of the Italian football clubs.
Today the Ultràchic brand of clothing and accessories is
represented in 150 multi-brand stores all over the world and by
two mono-brand boutiques in Seoul and Milan.
05 LES PETITS JOUEURS
The brand was created in 2010 by pure chance, as its founder
Maria Sole Cecchi says. To stand out at a party the designer
decided to decorate her bag with the word ‘Love’ made from
Lego bricks. The accessory was such a great success that she
thought about creating a fashion line. Today the brand Les
Petites Joueurs is represented in 145 countries around the world.
05
04
Ultràchic Les petits
joueurs
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40
06 QUATTROMANI
The brand’s name is translated from the
Italian for ‘four hands’ – these hands belong
to their founders, designers Massimo Noli
and Nicola Frau. This fashion duo pays much
attention to colour, cut and fabric in their
collection. Before creating their own brand,
the pair worked for Les Copains.
07 MAY MOMA
Simona Nicolosi left her successful career
in marketing to devote all her time to her
hobby – creating jewellery. The designer
harmoniously combines gemstones with
quartz, Swarovski crystals and decorative
elements made of silk or cotton. All pieces
are made in Italy.
08 ILARIUSSS
Ilaria Soncini not only designs but also
crafts hats. She has extensive experience
of working in theatre, where she created
hats for such ballets as The Nutcracker
and Romeo and Juliet. She also actively
collaborates with Max Mara, Marios and
Valentino.
07
06 08
May Moma
Quattromani Ilariusss
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42
09 GIUSEPPE DI MORABITO
The designer was born in Calabria and since his childhood has
absorbed a love for southern architecture and Italian art. The
traditions are harmoniously coupled with the latest trends in
his collections. In spite of the fact that the brand only appeared
recently, in 2014, he has quickly found fans among lovers of
sophisticated style.
10 BENEDETTA BRUZZICHES
Her storm cloud clutches and quilted handbags have conquered
the hearts of fashionistas all over the world. For Benedetta, each
item created is not just an accessory but a whole story that then
takes shape and colour. All her collections are manufactured in
the Italian town of Caprarola where the designer was born.
09
10
Benedetta
Bruzziches
Giuseppe di
Morabito
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A CLASSIC OF
THE GENRE
A CLASSIC SUIT,A WHITE SHIRT,A BOW TIE,A VEST, BUT
AT LEAST WITH ONE COLOURFUL ELEMENT – THIS IS
HOW THE MODERN DANDY ROLLS, RETAINING HIS
LAID-BACK AND SLIGHTLY IRONIC STYLE EVEN IN THE
EVENINGS
In the past, modesty was considered a gentleman\'s virtue.
Today’s men don\'t like to look shy, and especially not at grand
events. At least, designers don’t think so. The new classic style
isn\'t only about suits, crisp shirts and sleek fitting coats, but also
club jackets, embroidered shirts, and velvet cloaks. One-colour
three-piece suits and the business stripe sets of bigwigs from
Wall Street surrender under the pressure of dress suits on the
verge of kitsch. Alexander McQueen’s men presented butterfly
prints, and combined velvet jackets with snow-white sneakers.
Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana embellished their three-
piece suits with embroidered flowers. Ermanno Scervino dressed
trendy dandies in double-breasted velvet jackets with satin lapels
reminiscent of dinner jackets. Together with velvet trousers this
outfit might seem too pretentious, but a black silk shirt with an
Ermanno Scervino Fall 2016
Dior Homme Fall 2016
Alexander McQuuen Fall 2016
Alexander McQueen
Fall 2016
Versace
Fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016
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open collar makes the look simpler. Dirk Bikkembergs also plays with the
literal reading of the classic dress code: he complements formal dress
with high boots and sports gloves.
The everyday classic wardrobe cannot be without a grey checked suit.
Donatella Versace gives a styling master class in how to wear it. It turns out
that on weekdays it goes perfectly with a turtleneck! In fact, the Beatles
were already wearing it this way back in the 60s, so now is a good time to
resurrect this combination, and to give it a modern twist by putting on a
cloak of metallic fabric and a self-assured smile.
As for the suit silhouette, in most collections it is narrow. However, Italian
maestro Giorgio Armani and Kris Van Assche from Dior Homme urge us
not to write off loose-fitting models either. They transcend the retro spirit,
and thanks to this seem more relaxed.
Dirk Bikkembergs Fall 2016
Giorgio Armani Fall 2016
Versace Fall 2016
1) A jacket with print is not the immediate choice of less flamboyant men, but it can look quite formal.
You just need to put it with a single-colour shirt and tie.
2) Sneakers have definitely moved beyond sports style and entered the official wardrobe.
They look best with a laid-back two-piece, without a tie.
3) Classics are the basis of any wardrobe. Remember that this season suit silhouettes have become more close-fitting,
and velvet and brocade complement the usual selection of fabrics.
Style tips
Dior Homme Fall 2016
Ermanno Scervino Fall 2016
Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016
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THE MIDNIGHT
WARRIOR
IN THESE DIFFICULTAND TURBULENTTIMES, DESIGNERS
REACT INSTANTLYTO WORLD EVENTS. SO IT’S NO
SURPRISE THATTHE IMAGE OF A NOBLE,VALIANT, BRAVE
AND MYSTERIOUS DEFENDER REIGNS ON THE MEN’S
RUNWAYS.THIS WARRIOR MAY BE AUSTERE, HE MAY BE
TACITURN, BUT HE IS DEFINITELYTHE SEASON’S HERO
Thankfully menswear has escaped another attack of militarism, which has started
to grate after so many seasons. Details lifted from military uniforms have filled
men’s wardrobes so long that they’ve become completely old hat, but the
coming fall brings a new hero.
The characters of the new Alexander McQueen fashion show, were lifted straight
from a tale of true heroes, looking determined and purposeful in American
pilots’ jackets, uniform trousers with red stripes, and straight-cut coats.
The collection also boasts a party suit with a jacket embellished like an old-
fashioned dress coat. Giorgio Armani and Ports 1961 are also investigating the
style of the historical uniform – surprisingly, it can be paired with elastic ankle
sports trousers and even shorts! A romantic hero was featured in the Lemaire
collection.A contemporary Robin Hood in a hooded cloak was eager to defend
Burberry Fall 2016
Brioni Fall 2016
Fendi Fall 2016
Alexander McQueen Fall 2016
Juun.J Fall 2016
Ports 1961 Fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
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the poor, supported by a masculine character in stylised military fatigues as seen at Jil
Sander, and a dark knight in a double-breasted overcoat at Burberry.
The leather trench coat with epaulettes and strap closures, lifted straight from military spy
films, is another hero of the coming fall.These coats can be found in collections by Bottega
Veneta or Valentino, paired with wide trousers and other classic items. Diesel Black Gold
presents khaki pea coats fitting perfectly into the contemporary urban style. Domenico
Dolce and Stefano Gabbana approached the trend head on, decorating their straight-cut
brown coat with pistol embroidery. Keep back, he\'s armed and dangerous!
More literal interpretations from the military style were also noticed, but those were
exceptions rather than the new season’s rule. Stylised uniform took full control over the
Moncler Gamme Bleu runway show, but the looks were better suited to a runway than
reality.To complement your daily look, use just one ‘military’ accessory at a time. Designers
just play soldiers, while actually promoting peace. In their collections, military style is all
about fancy dress, whereas war is just a nightmare.
Dolce & Gabbana Fall 2016
Lemaire Fall 2016
Giorgio Armani Fall 2016
Valentino Fall 2016
Diesel Black Gold Fall 2016
1) The double-breasted straight-cut overcoat with two rows of brass buttons is a universal wardrobe item matching
any style of clothes
2) Leather trousers look great with oversized pea coats. Look for the style tips in the collections by Juun.J and
Diesel Black Gold
3) The uniform jacket is an excellent alternative to an evening suit jacket— paired with dress trousers, its appropriate at any
high-level event
Style tips
Bottega Veneta Fall 2016
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FASHION AS AN
ECOLOGICAL GUARDIAN
UNTIL RECENTLY,THE CONCEPT OF GREEN OR ECO-FRIENDLY FASHION WAS SEEN AS SYNONY-
MOUS WITH GIVING UP A NUMBER OF DESIGN ELEMENTS. COMPANIES WHICH FOCUSED ON CARE
FOR THE ENVIRONMENT OFTEN HAD TO SACRIFICE THE AESTHETIC COMPONENT OF THEIR
COLLECTIONS AND USUALLY ONLY HAD A LIMITED NUMBER OF DESIGNS
Releasing a full line of eco-
friendly clothing seemed
unprofitable. The production
costs were too high, and the
number of customers too
limited. Stores were more
likely to stock t-shirts printed
with slogans like ‘Save our
Planet’ or ‘I’m for recycling’
than goods that were
actually produced without
harming the environment.
This means environmental
protection quickly turned
into a marketing ploy, which
brands from various countries
returned to repeatedly.
As time has passed,
however, customers have
become more serious
about environmental issues.
According to results from
the international research
company Nielsen, 66%
of consumers around the
world are ready to pay
more for goods that are
produced in accordance with
environmental standards.
In fact, you don’t always
have to spend more for
environmentally friendly
clothing and accessories.
For example, a few years
ago Pinko released a
capsule collection of six
colourful bags dedicated
to the culture of Ethiopia,
each priced at only €58. The
entire line is manufactured
in Addis Ababa from 100%
African cotton in a factory
with an environmentally
friendly production process
and which employs only
women. For two seasons
now Weekend Max Mara
line has collaborated with
Text: Galia Milovzorova
LAURA STRAMBI
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VOZ
Saluzzo Yarns, which uses
recycled plastic bottles to
produce a revolutionary new
thread called New Life. This
thread is perfectly suited
for the production of both
outerwear and underwear. Its
innovative technology allows
the conservation of water
and electricity and reduces
carbon dioxide emissions
into the atmosphere. Both
of these brands’ capsule
collections consisted of a few
models that were available
in about 1,500 stores around
the world and which had
great commercial success.
However, at about the same
time the brand Puma tried
a similar experiment which
did not achieve the desired
results.
In 2013, the sportswear
brand introduced the Incycle
collection, which included
shoes, jackets and backpacks
made from biodegradable
materials and containing no
toxic substances. However,
shopping centres were in no
hurry to stock eco-line items
and, as a result, customers
were only able to find them in
Puma’s flagship stores, which
are not universally located.
The Incycle collection was not
in high demand there and
because of this the brand
officially declared the line a
failure and stopped working
on other similar projects.
While a number of brands are
reflecting on the benefits of
such experiments, for some
environmental responsibility
is the foundation of their
business. A striking example
of this is designer Stella
McCartney, who uses no
natural leather or fur at all
in her collections, and who
in 2015 broke a contract
with her wool supplier after
learning that animals had
been mistreated on their
farm. With every year the
brand tries to bring their
fashion line closer to the
ideal of sustainability. For
example, when manufacturing
underwear Stella McCartney
line uses no materials of
animal origin. The brand
prefers eco-cotton. The
boning, underwire and
fasteners for bras are made
from recycled computer parts.
Help for certain brands which
have only just started their
path to ecologically friendly
production can be found
with agencies such as Eco-
Age. They offer customised
business solutions designed
to protect the natural
environment and ensure
OVER THE LAST FEW YEARS NOT ONLYTHE BIG BRANDS AND
FINAL CUSTOMERS, BUTALSO FASHION BUYERS HAVE BEGUN
TO TAKE THE ISSUE OF ENVIRONMENTAL RESPONSIBILITY
SERIOUSLY
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BEHNO WORKERS
STELLA MCCARTNEY
PRE FALL 2016
stable growth for companies.
Among the agency\'s clients
are such giants of the fashion
industry as Kering, the Gucci
Group and Marks & Spencer.
‘The business model that is
based only on maximising
profit is no longer relevant,
and concern for the
environment has become
much more than just a
marketing strategy. The
fashion world has changed,
and now it is based on a
number of principles: nature,
society, working conditions,
and culture. This new
business model meets the
needs of all links in the chain,’
says Francesca Romana
Rinaldi, Associate Professor,
Department of Management
and Technology, Bocconi
University of Milan.
Her words are backed up
by the facts: at the end
of last year ten leaders of
the Italian fashion market
(Gucci, Prada, Armani, Zegna,
Valentino, Ferragamo, OTB,
Staff International, Loro
Piana and Versace) decided
to reduce the use of toxic
substances in the creation
of their collections. A
specially prepared document
includes the names of 500
chemicals that the parties
to the agreement have
committed themselves
to replace with less toxic
alternatives whenever
possible. Additionally, these
‘big ten’ fashion houses
will pay increased attention
to the origins of the fabric
and leather used in the
manufacture of clothing
and accessories, as well as
to the working conditions
in the factories they work
with.‘Within two to three
years, the document will
become a sort of a rulebook
that Italy will be glad to share
with other countries, because
fashion is one big family,
and it has no boundaries.
Together, we can rethink the
future of the planet and the
fashion world,’ concluded
the president of the National
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WEEKEND MAX MARA
STUDIO 189
PUMA
Chamber for Italian Fashion,
Carlo Capasa. According
to the same organisation,
over the last few years not
only the big brands and end
customers, but also fashion
buyers have begun to take
the issue of environmental
responsibility seriously. In
the last few years the number
of buyers who base their
choices on factors including
the origin and sustainability
of the collection’s production
has grown from 2% to 30%.
As experience shows, those
who advocate for ‘green
fashion’ are first in line to
put their confidence in
specialised companies since
the production processes of
the eco-friendly factories,
as a rule, are the most
transparent, so both buyers
and final customers can
easily track all stages – from
the selection of raw materials
to the end result of the
fully finished product; from
the working conditions at
the factory to the data on
reduced consumption of
power and water.
Among these brands is
the fashion house Behno,
which is trying to change
people’s perceptions of the
label ‘Made in India’, and
emphasises the masterful
weaving skills involved and
theongoing of improvement
in working conditions; the
brand Voz which promotes
the traditional crafts of
South America, offering
its customers hand-made
clothes and accessories;
Laura Strambi who uses
only natural materials and
dyes for her collection,
which consists entirely of
handmade pieces; Studio
189 which brings to the
masses fashion items
handmade in Africa by local
craftsmen and Study NY
which faithfully follows its
motto ‘Fashion without waste’
by using in its production
every scrap of fabric.
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THE DEVIL’S IN
THE DETAIL
SHOES, BAGS, GLOVES AND OTHER ACCESSORIES
HAVE THE POWER TO TRANSFORM A SIMPLE
OUTFIT INTO A STYLE STATEMENT. DISCOVER THE
NEW TRENDS IN THESE IMPORTANT ADDITIONS
TO YOUR OUTFIT — AS SEEN IN THE FIRST FALL
COLLECTIONS
THE PERFECT MATCH
To match a bag with a suit is nothing new, but the coming season
takes perfect matching to a new level. Stewart Vevers for Coach,
Christopher Kane for his namesake brand, and Pablo Coppola
for Bally, along with lots of other first-class international designers
have filled their collections with bags that not only repeat the
colour but even the patterns and prints of clothes. Of course,
you can\'t have a special accessory for every single dress in their
wardrobe, but at least one perfect combination is a must-have,
especially since each garment also looks fabulous without its
original match.
Bally Pre-Fall 2016
Coach Pre-Fall 2016
BLUE STOCKING
Tight-fitting stocking boots and equestrianism-inspired thigh-
length leather boots are riding high this season. Coloured
smooth leather models, as seen at Valentino, look great
paired with multicoloured mini dresses that might have been
worn by 60s fashionistas; soft slouchy corduroy boots match
sportswear by MM6, while high lace-up leather boots naturally
complement the 70s-inspired looks in Philosophy by Lorenzo
Serafini. Contrary to the stereotype, these shoes can look
serene and exquisite. Still, stylists do not recommend wearing
them with tight-fitting clothes: better to opt for sweeping skirts
or straight formal dresses.
Valentino Pre-Fall 2016
Philosophy by Lorenzo Serafini Pre-Fall 2016
YOUR PACK OF CHOICE
The backpack has long been more than a sports style
trademark. Today, this bag is perfectly suitable not only for a
camping trip, but also in the office or at a party. Practicality
and style — these are its main advantages. Understated leather
models, such as those in the collection by Jason Wu, are
the perfect replacement for the formal leather handbag, the
sequined Sonia Rykiel backpack will complete a disco party
look, while the riveted suede Versace backpack will look
equally stylish either in the everyday urban environment, on a
trip, or at an event.
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THE SEASON
Versace
The collection from Italian house Donatella Versace
contains a few contenders for the title of ‘It Bag’ of
the season. Our stand-out piece is a leather bag in
blue, from pastel shade to a deep blueberry.
Boss
Jason Wu revives the classic form and
understated design of the brand’s main
bestseller, the Bespoke bag. In the Pre-Fall
collection, the mini-size model is interpreted in a
number of colours: classic black, brick-red, and
pale blue.
Emilio Pucci
Massimo Giorgetti makes his first attempt at
creating the bag everybody wants to have. His
models for Emilio Pucci are spacious, with a retro
edge, but certainly practical. You’ll be able to fit in
whatever you need – even if it is for an outing to
the country or a weekend break.
Jason W
u Pre-Fall 2016
Emporio Armani Pre-Fall 2016
Boss Pre-Fall 2016
Versace
Pre-Fall 2016
Emilio Pucci
Pre-Fall 2016
Versace
Pre-Fall 2016
Versace
Sonia Rykiel Pre-Fall 2016
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THE BLUE
LAGOON
INVENTED BY LEVI STRAUSS IN THE 19TH CENTURY, JEANS
CONQUERED THE WORLD IN THE 70S, AND IN THE COMING
SEASON THEY HIT THE RUNWAYS AGAIN
It is no use arguing: jeans have never been out of fashion. Still, it has been a while
since prominent designers were so unanimous in bringing denim to the fashion
pedestal.This season’s collections are filled with jeanswear and almost all of them
have one thing in common: it’s the total look.Though the combination of a denim
top with a denim bottom deemed to be mauvais ton just a couple of seasons ago,
this season the priorities change. Double denim is at the peak of popularity, and not
just for street clothes anymore.The buttoned skirt and matching jacket by Thomas
Maier are perfect office attire, while Mulger and Burberry\'s sets are intended for
parties.Affirming their place as true classics, Belstaff’s jeans go perfectly with an
understated coat and a white shirt. Stonewashing depends on the garment’s
purpose: the more formal the outfit is, the darker, and the fewer details and
decorative elements.
Riccardo Tisci in his pre-fall collection introduced a denim capsule presented by
Russian model Irina Shayk, who became the collection’s testimonial. Simple designs,
classic cuts, overalls and cloaks, straight-leg jeans and riveted jackets – these are
the line\'s key elements. Here the overall, being a standard uniform of mechanics
Givenchy Pre-fall 2016
Emilio Pucci Pre-fall 2016
Mugler Pre-fall 2016
Belstaff Pre-fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
Burberry
Pre-fall 2016
Thomas Maier
Pre-fall 2016
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and woodcutters, acquires a new air: it looks elegant and feminine – not a hint of
masculinity.
If the idea of double denim is accepted unanimously, the designers’ opinion on cuts
and silhouettes of the jeanswear is very much divided. So, guided by their favourite
labels, devotees of Givenchy, Mugler and Carven will choose super-tight skinny jeans,
followers of Belstaff and See by Chloé will find versions bearing a striking resemblance
to boyfriend jeans, while Burberry’s, Gucci’s and Tommy Hilfiger’s fans will wear bell-
bottoms inspired by the 70s.
Talking of the 70s, renewed interest in that bohemian decade is apparent not only
in the cuts but also in the decorations of the jeanswear. Embroidery and appliques
became the keynote ideas of the sets created by Julie de Libran for Sonia Rykiel, Maria
Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino and Massimo Giorgetti for Emilio
Pucci.
So, when choosing your new pair for the coming fall, remember that the jeanswear of
today is not only an everyday uniform but a style of its own: sexy but not immodest,
contemporary, but with an eye to the past, sporty but still timeless; no wonder jeans
have long become classic.
Sonia Rykiel Pre-fall 2016
Gucci Pre-fall 2016
Valentino Pre-fall 2016
Carven Pre-fall 2016
1) Blue jeans go perfectly with brown footwear. Pair skinny jeans with brown ankle boots and boyfriend jeans
with oxblood red wedges.
2) This fall, high waisted jeans rather than low rise ones are on the top of the waves: the high waistline is well
up to date.
3) A row of brass buttons is perfect as a retro detail: buttoned A-line skirts or high rise jeans with decorative
fly buttons are reminiscent of the 70s and the 90s simultaneously.
Style tips
See By Chloé
Pre-fall 2016
Victoria Victoria
Beckham Pre-fall 2016
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Eugenia, you are the official
representative of Tarik Ediz brand in
Russia. Why did you choose to work with
this brand of evening dress specifically?
First introduced in 1997, today the brand
is represented in 80 countries, from the
US to Japan, Brazil to Australia. High-
quality design, including handmade
items, and a wide price range, starting
from exclusive haute couture dresses
and finishing with affordable models,
make Tarik Ediz attractive to a very
wide audience. And from a personal
perspective, I could not resist the charm
of their dresses when I first saw them in
real life.
Did your expectations pay off?
Today I can safely say that yes, they did.
Russian women love Tarik Ediz’s striking
but unfussy and tasteful designs. All
our dresses offer beautiful fits, allowing
customers to select the right model for
any figure, together with attractive prices.
Did the brand take root in Russian soil
easily?
Our Moscow boutique opened in
September 2014. It was not the easiest
time, since the ruble was losing ground
and the citizens were all tightening their
belts. Yet no matter what happens in the
world, people cannot do without holidays,
beauty, and positivity. They will still marry,
rejoice in the birth of children and success
at work, celebrate anniversaries. Men will
always admire stylish and elegant ladies,
and women will never give up their main
weapon, beauty. This is especially true of
Russian women whose desire and talent
for being beautiful is in their genes.
How is the Tarik Ediz distribution network
organised in Russia?
We are the exclusive distributor of the brand
in Russia. In addition to the flagship store in
Moscow, we have a showroom in Krasnodar.
Plans for boutiques in St. Petersburg
and Kazan are also afoot. In addition, we
cooperate with dozens of Moscow salons
selling evening and wedding dresses, where
you can also buy Tarik Ediz dresses.
Are there any celebrity fans of the brand?
Yes,Alsu, Laysan Utiasheva, Olga Orlova, Zara,
Valeria,Aurora,Anna Sedokova,Yekaterina
Volkova,Anna Nevskaya, Elena Kuletskaya,
Alisa Tolkacheva,Victoria Lopyreva, Ekaterina
Guseva have chosen Tarik Ediz dresses to
shine on stage and at various social events.
We are proud of helping them to highlight
their beauty. Zara even named our brand
among her favourite manufacturers for
concert outfits.
What is your brand promotion strategy?
Do you promote yourself or do you use PR
agencies?
Many brand promoters stretch the truth when
saying that they can cope on their own. But
everyone knows that successful brands and
designers are all helped by PR services, and
we are not an exception.We collaborate with
the creative agency PR TREND. Its charismatic
founder Ekaterina Odintsova is herself a big
fan of our dresses, so that in many respects
our union is a match made in heaven. For
example, we organised the debut fashion
show of the brand as part of Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week in fall 2015 together. But there
is another truth, too: if a brand does not have
that special appeal, if its creators have no
talent, no PR agency will be able to fix that.
TARIK EDIZ WINS RUSSIAN
BEAUTIES’ HEARTS
EUGENIA KIM, THE OWNER OF THE RUSSIAN BOUTIQUE CHAIN TARIK
EDIZ, TELLS US HOW THE BRAND’S DRESSES HAVE MANAGED TO
WIN THE HEARTS OF THOUSANDS OF WOMEN IN SUCH A SHORT
TIME
INTERVIEW: Elisaveta Lavrentieva
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
Polina Oganicheva
Marina Kim, Tarik
Ediz, Eugenia Kim,
Ekaterina Odintsova
Aurora
Yasmina Muratovich
58
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/Наши контакты/ Our contacts:
ekaterina@prtrendrussia.com / elena@prtrendrussia.com/ info@prtrendrussia.com
www.prtrendrussia.com
PR TREND – креативное агентство-бутик Екатерины Одинцовой, деятельность которого основы-
вается на индивидуальном подходе к каждому клиенту/ PR TREND offers a full circle of PR and
communication services for Russian and international clients
УСЛУГИ АГЕНТСТВА /
Работа со СМИ /
Организация мероприятий /
VIP-менеджмент /
Предоставление площади в шоу-руме для коллекций /
Заказчика для работы со СМИ и celebrities /
Digital PR /
Медиапланирование /
OUR SERVICES:
Day to day work with press
Event- management
VIP – management
Day to day work with stylist and celebrities at
our showroom
Digital PR
Мediaplanning
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FAB FUR
WHAT IS WINTER WITHOUTA FUR COAT? THE PRE-FALL
COLLECTIONS, SYMBOLISING THE TRANSITION FROM
SCORCHING SUMMER TO CHILLYAUTUMN,ARE PACKED WITH
WINTER WARMERS,AND LUXURIOUS FURS AND SILKS ARE
ABUNDANTAS NEVER BEFORE
The times when fur was considered a grand statement in itself are over. Nowadays
fashion designers treat it as a blank canvas — dying it a variety of unusual colours,
decorating it with appliques and embroideries, and striving to bring it down from its
pedestal to spread its charms among the youth.
There’s a hint of nostalgia for the 60s and 70s in next autumn’s silhouettes: bright fur
ponchos,A-line fur coats with geometrical prints, and bulky jackets. But all of these
possess a twist of sparkling individuality, with Alessandro Michele decorating fur coats
with appliques of the sun and moon with beautiful flowers blossoming on jackets
at Fendi and with Missoni coats that come alive with embellished strips. But even
without such special accents, brightly coloured furs are the darlings of the season,
with Versace, Michael Kors, Bottega Veneta and a dozen other brands all offering
their own interpretations of the bold winter to come.
The key volume
Luxurious classic coats of long-pile fur are on trend again. Fox, beaver, marten, and
Versace Pre-Fall 2016
Fendi Pre-Fall 2016
Missoni Pre-Fall 2016
Mary Katrantzou Pre-Fall 2016
Rochas Pre-Fall 2016
Carven Pre-Fall 2016
Text: Anastasia Khvatova
The bright choice
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/nutria furs, gorgeous oversize silhouettes and even patchwork fur coats – there’s a vast variety
of models to choose from. Designers are letting these gorgeous pieces speak for themselves,
paring back embellishments and letting the natural colours and lush textures of the fur shine
through.
Christopher Bailey in his collection for Burberry uses several natural tints of fox fur to create
an oversized fur coat that combines classic and contemporary urban styles.The Lanvin and
Emilio Pucci garments cut a slimmer sihouette: lavish furs cinched in at the waist with leather
belts for a figure-flattering look.Alexander McQueen presents lush short fur coats, which pair
perfectly with dramatic floor-length gowns.
Accentuating details
A fur scarf, boa or tippet is a great accessory for any evening ensemble.The careless
elegance of a fur stole flung over the shoulders harks back to the golden era of the Dream
Factory when actresses paired long satin gowns with their inseparable companions, fur boas.
Nowadays, you needn’t be rocking the red carpet to wear furs.J Mendel’s collection features
a fox fur scarf that perfectly sets off an elegant trouser ensemble, the mink palatine by Rochas
looks equally gorgeous either with a lingerie-style attire or a casual dress, while designers
from Carven added fur accents to a youthful bomber jacket and tight trousers, creating a new
street-style classic.
B U Y E R
Blumarine Pre-Fall 2016
Alberta Ferretti Pre-Fall 2016
Burberry Pre-Fall 2016
Emilio Pucci Pre-Fall 2016
Lanvin Pre-Fall 2016
1) Lush half-length fur coats pair perfectly with leather trousers and pointed ankle boots.
2) Play up the contrast: a lingerie-style dress and a fur stole are a winning combination for your night out.
3) A broad leather belt helps accentuate your figure even if you wear a long-pile fur coat.
Style tips
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/STRATEGIES
\' T h e t i m e f a c t o r p l a y s a c r u c i a l r o l e , a n d y o u n e e d t o
m a k e d e c i s i o n s a s q u i c k l y a s p o s s i b l e , w h i c h s o m e t i m e s
l e a d s t o n e g l e c t i n g c e r t a i n a s p e c t s , i g n o r i n g c e r t a i n r i s k s .
T h e m o s t i m p o r t a n t t h i n g i s t o b e f i r s t : t h i s i s w h a t b r i n g s
s u c c e s s .\'
N i c o l a A n t o n e l l i , L u i s a v i a r o m a . c o m
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f L u i s a v i a r o m a . c o m p r e s s o f f i c e
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
INTERVIEW: Galia Milovzorova
64
ROBERTA BENTELER, FOUNDER AND CEO OF ONLINE FASHION RETAILER AVENUE 32, SHARES THE
FORMULATHAT LIES BEHIND THE FAST GROWTH AND THE INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS OF HER BUSI-
NESS. BASED IN LONDON,THE COMPANY SHIPS ALL OVER THE GLOBE AND IS FAMOUS FOR HAVING A
STRONG AND INDIVIDUAL SELECTION OF EMERGENT DESIGNERS AND ESTABLISHED BRANDS
DIGITAL POWER
Is this your first e-commerce project? If
so what were the main problems you ran
into developing it? How did you solve
these problems?
Yes, I set up Avenue 32 at the age of
26 without any prior experience in
e-commerce. So we hired an experienced
project management firm to guide us
through the initial stages. The main
problems I would say were estimating the
costs correctly and meeting deadlines, as
there are always unexpected challenges
where technology is involved.
Is researching new designers important
for you and how is it done in your
company? What are the essential
qualities you look for?
Researching new designers is incredibly
important for Avenue 32 as we have such
a strong heritage and DNA in finding
emerging designers and working with
them to become commercial successes.
When sourcing for the site each brand
has to bring a unique point of view, have
design integrity and be of the highest
quality. As our customers really trust the
edit we bring to them, we cannot allow
any of these points to be compromised.
How do you define your target
audience? Are you planning to expand it
and how?
The Avenue 32 customer is a fashion-
conscious female, aged from her mid-20s
to 30+. Our audience ranges from those
who are well-versed in luxury shopping
and seeking items of the highest quality
to fashion-savvy shoppers who are keen
to discover unique pieces from the latest
emerging designers that Avenue 32 has
to offer. Largely from the UK and US, our
customer base also spreads through
mainland Europe, the Middle East and
Australia. We plan to continue expanding
throughout these regions, through
targeted digital marketing campaigns, a
seamless delivery and returns process
and a new improved website.
Which is the best way for you to receive
feedback from your customers?
We are fortunate to enjoy communicating
with customers on many levels,
depending on their preferences and
the nature of their enquiry. We find
that for styling advice customers prefer
telephone contact. This facilitates a more
conversational, informal interaction
which customers enjoy. Stock availability
enquiries, returns requests or tracking
issues are typically done via email to
customer services, which remains the
most active form of communication. We
belong to a third party feedback forum
called Trust Pilot which allows customers
to leave feedback on their transactional
experience: from the item(s) themselves
to the gift-wrapping and delivery as well
as the service they received.
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RESEARCHING NEW DESIGNERS IS INCREDIBLY IMPORTANT FOR AVENUE 32 AS WE HAVE
SUCH A STRONG HERITAGE AND DNA IN FINDING EMERGING DESIGNERS AND WORK-
ING WITH THEM TO BECOME COMMERCIAL SUCCESSES.WHEN SOURCING FOR THE SITE
EACH BRAND HAS TO BRING A UNIQUE POINT OF VIEW, HAVE DESIGN INTEGRITYAND BE
OF THE HIGHEST QUALITY
65
Social media (Instagram, Facebook &
Twitter) has also increasingly become an
effective and immediate means of corre-
sponding, although the dialogue in these
cases is more generic, relating to likes
and dislikes as well as recommendations
and feedback.
So we do not have one best way of
receiving feedback but as we do not have
stores we always love to hear a voice on
the other end of the phone; it’s the clos-
est we get to meeting a customer!
What is your approach to staff? What are
the essential skills you look for?
The Avenue 32 team is the biggest
asset we have; they are what makes the
machine work. Essentially team members
need to be highly skilled, motivated, not
afraid to take initiative and very impor-
tantly, they need to have great interper-
sonal skills, as communication amongst
the team is key!
What are the latest developments in the
e-commerce market and how do you stay
up to date?
The e-commerce market is constantly
changing, so it’s important to stay up
to date by keeping on top of the latest
advances and technologies that are
released. There is a running theme of per-
sonalisation and offering a customer what
they want, when they want it, no matter
what device they are on. Being able to
create an entirely bespoke shopping
experience for each and every customer
that visits the site is a great end goal to
have. We are moving towards this through
personalised visual merchandising and
content for different audiences and it will
become more of a focus in the future.
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THE AVENUE 32 TEAM IS THE BIGGESTASSET WE HAVE; THEYARE WHAT MAKES
THE MACHINE WORK. ESSENTIALLYTEAM MEMBERS NEED TO BE HIGHLY
SKILLED, MOTIVATED, NOTAFRAID TO TAKE INITIATIVE AND VERY IMPORTANT-
LY,THEY NEED TO HAVE GREAT INTERPERSONAL SKILLS,AS COMMUNICATION
AMONGSTTHE TEAM IS KEY
67
How did you develop your shipping
strategy? Did it work out well from the
beginning or did you have to improve it?
Our shipping strategy has evolved
organically to meet growing demand
and expectations rather than being
established from day one. We ship
globally from a dedicated warehouse in
the UK. We make use of an integrated
duty calculator on the site, which pre-
determines import duties for the over
125 countries we ship to at checkout. This
dramatically improves customs clearance
and despite shipping from the UK we
are able to provide ‘next day’ service to
the USA and typically 2-3 days for most
countries in the rest of the world.
How do you engage with your
customers? How do you use channels
such as newsletters and social networks?
Our email marketing strategy allows us to
communicate with our customers multiple
times a week. Our emails feature ‘how
to’ wardrobe ideas for the latest trends
and styles, as well as editorial pieces to
educate our audience further on new
products and designers that feature on
the Avenue. We are also active on social
media platforms including Instagram,
Facebook and Twitter – all allow us to
create a wider sense of the Avenue 32
brand, our values and product offering,
through a range of posts focused on
lifestyle and fashion content.
What is the importance of preparing
unique content for your customers, such
as articles, interviews, trend reports or
fashion editorials?
I see this as a two-fold thing. Firstly, in
a saturated market, unique content is a
vital tool for setting Avenue 32 apart from
the competition. It’s essential to have
your own voice and opinion, something
we achieve through our editorials and
content. Secondly, our customer is
intelligent and interested in fashion, and
so I want to give her more than just an
online shopping destination, I want her to
be inspired too! Via our shoots, features
and interviews we can offer her a more
rounded experience, I think she values
and deserves that.
Do you see growth in orders from mobile
users? How do you think customer
behaviour will change in the near future?
The number of orders from mobile users
has grown by over 100% year on
year at Avenue 32. There used to be an
understanding that customers browsed
on mobile and purchased on desktop but
this has definitely changed. Purchasing
on mobile will only continue to grow into
the future. People are much savvier now
and expect the experience of the brand
to be the same, no matter what device
they are on, whether that’s through
product, services or content offered.
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ONE STEP AHEAD
WE ASKED TOP FASHION RETAIL EXPERTS HOW TO MOVE RUSSIAN MULTI-BRAND BOU-
TIQUES TO A HIGHER LEVEL IN CONDITIONS OF CRISIS AND COMPETITION ON THE MARKET
ROBERTA VALENTINI
Top Italian buyer and owner of Penelope
fashion group, Brescia
Actually, a universal recipe for success in
this kind of business does not exist. It all
depends on our individuality and whom
we want to see as our target audience. The
most important thing is to choose your
own strategy and follow it. As for me, I pay
a lot of attention to my shop atmosphere
– I like to fill it with very particular things.
My clients should feel comfortable and
interested. Certainly, staff selection and
training are important too. I do not know
the situation in Russia well because I
have only been to Moscow, but during
those few days I visited some multi-
brand boutiques and I liked the way their
windows were decorated, their variety
and common design. Those shops had a
unique style and that is very important. It
is too difficult to compete with big malls
and I am not sure that it is worth it. It has
more effect if you are oriented on your
client, if you spare no time in looking for
new brands. You can do this anywhere.
As for me, apart from European fashion
capitals I also love Tokyo, but actually I
find many amazing brands while travelling
around Italy. And, of course, today it is
so important to develop e-commerce
channels to expand the audience and
reach new markets.
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69
LEV ELFIMOV
Brand manager of Soho boutique,
Rostov-on-Don
It’s almost impossible to find new clients
in this difficult period, that’s why it is
better to work with existing ones. To start,
we\'ve increase what we’re offering, from
the appearance of new brands to new
goods from existing ones. Of course, staff
communication is also very important. Our
staff are always courteous and helpful. We
have an event almost every week, usually
presentations of our new partners. We
never invite many people but we organise
little parties where our clients can talk in a
cosy atmosphere. Guests always buy more
in these situations. And we have been
offering extra services, such as fitting a
garment or dry cleaning, for a long time.
It does not matter if our client bought the
garment in our boutique or in another
shop. The extra service is not always free,
because it depends on the complexity of
the work needed, but it saves the client
time: he just brings us his item and we do
our best to fix it.
BOUTIQUE SOHO,
ROSTOV-ON-DON.
BOUTIQUE SOHO,
ROSTOV-ON-DON.
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
Content: created with sharing collaboration of Buyer, for illustration purposes only
70
AS DIGITAL DEVELOPMENTTAKES ALLTHE PROCESSES IN THE FASHION SYSTEM BY STORM,A
TECHNOLOGY CREATED TO EMPOWER BUYERS IS IN THE MAKING.WE SPOKE TO VIA DEL BUYER,
A PROJECTTHATAIMS TO TAKE THE RESEARCH AND ORDERING PROCESS TO THE NEXT LEVEL.
The buying process has not seen any drastic changes
in recent times. The workflow starts with the planning of
a seasonal brand mix followed by a visit to one or two
fashion capitals to view the collections and place orders.
Though the buyer follows more or less the same steps,
the market has changed quite significantly. The com-
petition has increased, the craze for brands has calmed
down, and customers have become more educated.
The tough market conditions have created obstacles
that only the strongest retailers have been able to over-
come and, sometimes, even use to their advantage.
What makes a buyer stand apart from competition? It
is a mix of decisions regarding the marketing strategy,
the scouting of the most interesting collections, and
the representation of goods in the store. But the key to
it all is differentiation. It is no longer enough to stick to
safe bestselling products. Today you need to research
the unique pieces that will make customers connect
emotionally.
Encouraged by an open market and new online tools,
groups of emerging fashion designers have begun to
NEW FRONTIERS
OF BUYING
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71
make their mark on the industry. Nowadays, almost every
buyer understands the importance of introducing new
fresh names and products in their store. Research has
become fundamental and is often carried out online or
when travelling, and always takes up a good deal of the
buyer’s time.
In the meantime, the wholesale industry has seen innova-
tions, with new programmes used for managing produc-
tion, orders and inventory, and even the fairs are slowly be-
coming more digitalised. As such, the buyer has benefited
from these to a minimal extent, as all of the existing servic-
es are mainly aimed at satisfying the needs of brands. The
buyer somehow remains a figure on the sidelines, yet plays
a strong role in the industry, being the one who purchases
and brings fashion from the brands to the people.
A new project that is based on the needs of buyers has
been created. Via Del Buyer is a wholesale platform, which,
as its name suggests, gives the buyer all the tools needed
to research, place orders, and even search through ready
and available goods if they require stock immediately. One
of the aims is to optimise time, both in terms of travelling
and online research. In fact, the closed platform lets the
buyers browse through latest season lookbooks, even
before they are available online, or, for instance, work with
international designers that would otherwise be out of
reach.
The website is inspired by final customer online stores
where one can see what a product looks and feels like with
only one click. The full details on collections are comple-
mented by brands distribution lists, dates of deliveries,
price ranges and even social and press feeds. Also, the
editorial part of the platform will present trend reports and
share other buyers’ advice, in order to provide additional
help with selection.
Preparations are being made to launch the website in May
2016. The starting point is a vision of helping the buyers
with their workflow, while also being prepared to receive
their input in order to build a platform that is actually
useful and that makes the experience simpler and more
satisfying.
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
Photo: courtesy of Trendsquire
72
BEING A LEADER MEANS BEING ONE STEP AHEAD OF CUSTOMERS. SPECIALLY FOR OUR READERS WE ASKED
TREND BUREAU TRENDSQUIRE TO TELL US ABOUTTHE GUIDELINES IN WOMEN’S, MEN’S AND KIDS’ FASHION
FOR THE NEW FALL/WINTER SEASON
FALL/WINTER 2016/17 TRENDS
WOMEN’S WARDROBE
The main colours are all shades of grey
and other neutrals. Historical dress with all
its details such as lace, collars, cuffs and
a nipped-in waist is on trend now. Large
exotic flowers, leaves, and plant details in
many bright colours are the most typical
designs in terms of ornaments. Avoid
patent leather accessories, a ‘rough shine’
is more relevant.
1. Super wide-leg high-waisted trousers covering shoes.
2. Below-the-knee wool coats with a dropped shoulder.
Colours: light brown, black or rich complex colours such as blue-green,
orange-red or mustard.
3. Super long and heavy knitted scarves draped to the knee or even lower.
4. Asymmetric feminine dresses with flounces and lace.
5. Wraparound skirts worn over another skirt, dress or trousers.
6. Silk printed robes with belts worn as a dress.
7. Knee-length or longer floral printed dresses straight from your mother or
grandmother’s wardrobe.
8. Straight or flared wide-leg culottes made of wool or velvet.
9. Scottish tartan jackets.
10. Clothing featuring fabrics that seem covered with living organisms: mosses, coral etc.
10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON:
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MEN’S WARDROBE
Clean lines and monochrome combina-
tions are imperative Monocolour suits
may be alternated with a set of similar
shades such as black, graphite and dark
grey. At the same time, pastel colours,
usually used for women’s and kids’
clothes, have become a must-have for
men’s wardrobes too. A head-to-toe del-
icate look with a detail of rich colour is
ideal. Even if your customers are not so
brave, they will still come into your store
having seen such contrasting colour
images in your shop windows.
1. Layered clothing.T-shirt, shirt, vest, cardigan, jacket, shorts over trousers – each item
a different length and worn together so that every layer shows.
2. Elongated fitted silhouettes for shirts and jackets.
3. Straight short trousers, not stretchy, but maybe turned-up, for the ‘overgrown schoolboy’ look.
4. Classic suit trousers of neutral grey or black as an alternative to jeans.
They may be worn with jumpers, t-shirts or casual shirts. Sneakers or loafers are perfect
for completing the image, not formal shoes.
5. Extensive colourful and childish pop-art print design is everywhere: ranging from shirts and
coats to shoes and accessories.
6. Black-and-white prints coupled with another ornament or used as a particular emphasis
on black clothes.
7. Vintage.Worn-in fabrics with romantic embroidery or paint splatters for a second-hand vibe.
8. Wide-leg extra length trousers with front pleats and creases are perfectly coupled with tucked
in shirts.They could be either low-rise trousers, also called hipsters, or mid-rise trousers.
9. Patch pockets: big or small but always square.These suit every type of clothing, even the classics.
10. Large botanic ornaments: flowers, leaves and other plant details.
10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON:
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74
KIDS’ WARDROBE
One unconventional feature of the season is
the abundance of black, not usually typi-
cal for kids’ collections. Total black can be
coupled with black-and-white print design.
Ornaments have become simpler and more
abstract. Clean cuts without extra darts are
now widespread in kids’ collections. Slim
silhouettes with voluminous details such
as pompoms and jabot collars have also
become very popular. And outfits decorat-
ed with faux fur, lace, tinsel, tassels etc., in
contrast with simple ‘pajama’ style, are also
on trend.
1. Ballerina style: lush skirts, quiet colours, slender waists and light fabrics.
2. Geometric ethnic ornaments, contrast embroidery, natural dyes.
3. Simple layered silhouettes.
4. Turndown jabot collar blouses.
5. Harlequin suits or trousers – light material, with printed design or tailored rhomboid
or triangular flaps.
6. Sweaters with pompoms or many knitted ornaments.
7. Dresses or vyshyvankas (old East Slavic traditional embroidered women\'s shirt),
also knee-length dressed with defined waist and ascot collars.
8. Fur coats.
9. White shirts with print design like old Soviet propaganda posters.
10. Black printed sweatshirts or hoodies.
10 TRENDS OF THE SEASON:
All material taken from analytic online platform Trendsquire, the first Russian trend bureau. The trend bureau analyses and makes
forecasts of visual fashion and design trends in combination with pattern of behaviour changes and customers’ socio-cultural vectors.
Trendsquire publishes special books about fashion trends for buyers twice a year. This online platform for design, marketing and retail
professionals in fashion industry has been running since February 2016. More information at www.trendsquire.ru.
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/75
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
INTERVIEW: Marta Topolskaya
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
76
AT THE CROSSROADS OF
TRADITION AND HIGH-TECH
NICOLA ANTONELLI, PROJECT MANAGER OF FAMOUS ONLINE
BOUTIQUE LUISAVIAROMA.COM TALKS ABOUT ITS HISTORY, PRES-
ENT AND FUTURE
You’d be hard pushed to find an Italian
retailer who better symbolises truly global
success than Luisa Via Roma. This name, or
rather the website address luisaviaroma.com
is known to fashionistas all over the world,
from Australia to the US, Europe to Russia.
The small hat boutique opened in 1930
in Florence by a French immigrant Louise
Zhaken with the support of her Italian
husband Lido Pankonezi would probably
have remained a modest family business
if control hadn\'t passed to their grandson
Andrea at the end of the 60s.
His perfect taste, fantastic intuition and
business acumen are plain to see in his
choice of collections (including, for example,
the then totally unknown Kenzo), and his
anticipation of business trends in fashion
retail.
LVR became a pioneer in the field of
online commerce in the world of fashion:
launching the website in 1999. Today it
enjoys 5 million visits per month and is
considered the world\'s largest internet
fashion store. The Financial Times called it
a ‘fashion paradise’ because its clients can
browse more than 600 collections, including
famous brands as well as talented new
designers.
In addition, Luisa Via Roma hosts numerous
international fashion events such as
the Fashion & Technology Summit or
Firenze4Ever, the festival for bloggers from
all over the world.
NICOLA ANTONELLI
Project manager
of Luisaviaroma.com
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
BOUTIQUE LUISA VIA ROMA
FLORENCE
77
How did the transformation of a small
boutique in Florence into one of the
world\'s largest trendsetters happen?
It happened very organically. The key
element was the gradual introduction
of digital culture into the daily life
of our company, without putting too
much pressure on the organisation.
We took it step by step: our first site
was designed primarily to help those
who were customers of LVR. Thus the
process of growth was painless, as it
was proportionate to what the company
could actually manage. We chose a
similar path in our approach to style: for
the first e-commerce purchases we made
the same collections as those for the
boutique, because both had the same
customers. Later on, when our project
became accessible to the wider public,
our buying policies changed in such a
way as to meet the needs of the new
target audience.
But how was the idea to bring Luisa Via
Roma online born in the first place?
LVR becoming an internet project was
a natural evolutionary process for our
business, which, although located in
Florence, has long been international. A
significant proportion of our customers
were already foreign, and they were
originally shopping using remote
offline sales. The only thing we had to
do was to introduce new technological
solutions to transform what could be
called o-commerce (offline commerce)
into the more technologically advanced
e-commerce.
What difficulties have you encountered?
First of all, there were difficulties of a
technical nature. Do not forget that we
started in 1999, when standard platforms
for selling online simply did not exist, nor
any of the associated services, so we had
to create everything ourselves. Other
problems (which are not completely
solved even today) were related to
finding employees who were well-
qualified to work on and develop our
online project.
How do the online and offline services
of your company work together?
They complement each other perfectly.
Following the logic of multichannel
marketing, we need our Florence
boutique to make everything we offer
in the virtual world real and tangible. Of
course, what’s on offer in the boutique
is limited to its physical capacities!
However, there is a touch screen,
where the customer can choose from
our full range of products, and thanks
to a specially created service they can
even try and buy things which are not
currently on display in the store.
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From what is usually written about your
company it seems that all your projects
have always been a huge success. Is this
impression true?
If you only looked at the results of our
work, it would be easy to think that every
decision, every choice, has always been
correct. But in fact not everything was
this easy! An absolute rule at the heart
of every successful web project is this:
doing it here and now is much better
than waiting and seeking perfection.
This means that the time factor plays
a crucial role, and you need to make
decisions as quickly as possible, which
sometimes leads to neglecting certain
aspects, ignoring certain risks. The most
important thing is to be first: this is what
brings success. Of course, this approach
inevitably entails mistakes, but for an
online company even mistakes can be
valuable, if you manage to respond
quickly and to learn useful lessons. One
example of an unsuccessful decision
was our attempt to create videos to
illustrate the items. Several years ago,
there was a tendency to give users the
fullest possible picture of what they were
buying. In that context, it seemed to us
absolutely necessary to provide each
item with a corresponding video, which
seemed to be the best way to present
it. However, we soon realised that the
efforts that were required to produce
videos were completely disproportionate
to the life cycle of the goods on sale and
to the benefits that our customers would
extract from it. This is a good example of
an unfortunate decision, which led to a
waste of human and financial resources
that could have been used in other
projects.
What advice would you give to
those who have not yet embarked
on e-commerce? Are there any best
practices? What difficulties might
newcomers encounter along the way,
and what is the best way to overcome
them?
Our main advice is to start as soon as
possible! Even if in many areas (such
as fashion, tourism, etc.), the market is
already quite saturated, in others there is
still a lot of room for development. The
most effective method is a consistent
and thorough implementation of digital
culture in the company\'s working
methods. Often this very important
aspect is largely underestimated. Many
companies launch their internet business
using the services of external providers
and servers and fully entrusting them
with the whole process. This is a
perfectly understandable decision, since
it promises your e-commerce project a
quick and painless start, but at the same
time leads to the situation that the online
project remains an outsider, a kind of
foreign body to the company. And then,
when the project begins to grow and
to expand, the company, not having
sufficient know-how to self-manage,
remains ‘chained’ to the external
suppliers.
Regarding investments, you need a
truly surgical precision here. Today,
in comparison with the traditional
marketing of the past, digital
technologies help companies to reach
their target audience with much less
scattering of financial resources. In
BOUTIQUE LUISA VIA ROMA
FLORENCE
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addition, there are quite a lot of open
source platforms, which allow businesses
to start online projects at a very
reasonable cost.
Luisa Via Roma, in addition to its
commercial activities, also organises
events such as Firenze4ever. Why did
you decide to do this? And what are
your future plans?
The idea of launching Firenze4ever
emerged during the Pitti Uomo show
from the same understanding that we
need to unite real and virtual worlds
that I have already mentioned. At this
event LVR organises meetings between
those playing leading roles in the virtual
fashion community, often for the first
time! It gives them the opportunity
to exchange views on the trends of
the season and on other burning
topics. In addition, we have many
other projects which are constantly
evolving. This year, before the start of
Pitti Uomo, we held another iteration of
the Fashion and Technology Summit.
This event was specially created for
in-depth discussions on the newest
digital technologies used in the world
of fashion. All the details about our
initiatives are available through our
internet channels.
What do you think is the secret of
Luisa Via Roma\'s success? What would
be your advice to fashion retailers
in helping them to overcome the
current crisis and to build a successful
business?
Well, there is no one secret! But
there is a set of factors which have all
contributed to our success. Of course,
being pioneers gave us a significant
advantage over our competitors, but
the most important aspect, I believe, is
that we never ‘rest on our laurels’. We
continue to work every day, every hour,
and at the same pace as on the very
first day. No idea, innovation, or trend
that could potentially bring us success
remains unheeded. I can give one piece
of general advice, which is to pay close
attention to the internet. That\'s where
all the new ideas are born nowadays,
and that’s where you can find new
opportunities.
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
ELENA BUGRANOVA
Fashion buyer with 20 years’ experience
and owner of fashion and interior design
boutiques, a beauty centre, a tourist
agency and a Russian-Italian publishing
house. Elena knows all the peculiarities
and challenges of running business be-
tween Russia and Europe, as well as the
work with the European producers. This
deep and versatile experience led Elena
to the decision to make her contribution
to the development of the Russian fash-
ion market and its role in the world.
81
JUST OVER AYEAR AGO,AN ORGANISATION APPEARED IN RUSSIATHE LIKES OF WHICH CAN-
NOT BE FOUND ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD. ELENA BUGRANOVA,THE BRAINS BEHIND AND
PRESIDENT OF THE RUSSIAN BUYERS’ UNION,TALKS ABOUT WHAT INSPIRED HER TO CREATE THE
ORGANISATION THAT HAS, IN JUSTA FEW MONTHS, UNITED UNDER ITS UMBRELLATHOUSANDS
FROM PRACTICALLY EVERY LARGE CITY IN RUSSIA
Elena, who participates in the Russian
Buyers’ Union, and what are the
organisation’s objectives?
At the moment, members of our union
include owners and buyers for multi-
brand clothing boutiques (from high-end
to mid-level ones) from practically every
region of Russia. During this year, we’ve
been able to reach 80 of the more than
1000 cities in our country. So now we are
intently studying the regions we haven’t
yet reached, and we will be actively
widening our sphere in the coming years.
At the moment, nearly 10,000 buyers are
members of our union, and this is a great
start. However, our main goal is not the
number of participants, but the analysis
of what is really happening in the Russian
retail market.
Buyers are people who determine
whether residents of the country can buy
particular products in Russian stores. They
directly influence what Russians wear
because it is buyers who bring famous or
entirely new brands to our country. Our
union strives to make the work of buyers
for multi-brand stores easier, for example
we help them selecting interesting
brands. Right now in the Russian fashion
market there is a huge demand for new
and high-quality items at an attractive
price.
Do you plan to influence the
Russian fashion market just through
representatives of clothing and shoe
stores or do you plan to invite buyers
from other sectors of the fashion industry
such as jewellery stores or watch
boutiques?
During this first stage, we have decided
to thoroughly study the shoe and
clothing market – men’s, women’s,
children’s, fur. In the future we’d like to
expand to jewellery and watches, and
finally to focus on furniture and interior
fashions. This is because the specifics of
each of these markets are so different and
demand such different approaches that
we decided it would be strategically right
to divide our work on them into different
stages.
For example, since the end of 2014,
we have been actively consulting
Russian buyers on the most profitable
partnerships with foreign manufacturers.
In the beginning, our organisation did
not plan on this sort of activity, but
experience showed that buyers first and
foremost want practical advice from us,
including advice about buying clothes.
And so we accommodated them. As a
result, just in the month of January, we
received around 100 proposals from
clothing manufacturers from Italy, France,
Germany, Turkey, China, and England.
With that amount of work, it becomes
pretty difficult to take care of operational
matters at the same time. For this
reason, it is too soon at this stage of our
organisation to throw the large number of
representatives from the jewellery, watch,
and furniture sectors into the mix as well.
CREATING NEW
POSSIBILITIES
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Please tell us about benefits and
advantages that Russian buyers gain from
participating in your organisation?
First of all, in order for the union to
help buyers increase their turnover,
lower their expenditures, and give
their business new momentum, we
create privileged conditions for buying
merchandise on request. We create an
exclusive communication platform for
buyers and manufacturers in the fashion
sector and form loyalty programmes
with union partners – banks, insurance
and transportation companies, customs
unions, software companies, and others.
The Russian Buyers’ Union partners with
many government entities – the Ministry of
Industry and Trade, the Russian Chamber
of Commerce, the Ministry of Culture,
the Ministry of Education, and also the
Chambers of Commerce of various
countries’ embassies accredited in Russia.
We are currently formulating a number
of propositions for participants in the
alliance, all in accordance with buyers’
demands. Since I, myself, am a buyer
and an owner of a multi-brand boutique,
I understand perfectly what kinds of
support, both commercial and legal,
are needed for buyers in the current
economic situation. For this reason,
we study all the aspects of a buyer’s
professional activity very carefully,
try to meet their needs as best as
possible, organise support for them on
a wide range of issues, and offer union
participants different approaches to
resolving business problems using our
consolidation of resources. But first of
all, we want to unite Russian buyers
into a strong organisation that will be
able, in the future, to influence not
only manufacturers, but also logistics
operators, customs agencies, banks, and
other structures, with the goal of creating
more advantageous and sometimes
unique business conditions for union
participants which in reality could not be
created were they to work on their own.
Elena, what examples from which
countries impressed you when you were
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
FIRST OF ALL,WE WANTTO UNITE RUSSIAN BUYERS INTO A STRONG ORGANI-
SATION THAT WILL BE ABLE TO INFLUENCE THE INDUSTRY WITH THE GOAL OF
CREATING MORE ADVANTAGEOUS BUSINESS CONDITIONS
83
thinking about creating the Russian
Buyers’ Union?
Well, in fact, today there is not one
organisation in any country that has the
same goals and objectives as ours. At
least, if there is I haven’t heard of it. For
example, in Italy, there is a Chamber of
Buyers with a president and members
with whom I have been in contact for
many years now. However, they are
organised slightly differently there. Only
the best boutiques in Italy participate in
the chamber, so this means there are only
125 members, all from the luxury sector.
We decided that we could cover a lot
more boutiques if we divided them into
two categories: ‘Best Luxury Stores’ which
have their own objectives and level of
communication, and ‘Mid (Mid+) Level’.
Of course, the representatives from the
second sector are a majority in our union.
I want to point out that we are talking
specifically about multi-brand boutiques
since the requirements for those working
for a multi-brand store (Aizel, Babochka) is
different than single-brand stores (Paul &
Shark, Massimo Dutti) which only bring in
items from one particular brand. Multi-
brand boutiques, however, are entirely
dependent on the creative efforts of the
buyers who are constantly looking for new
brands and like to experiment.
What does it cost for a buyer to join the
union?
For buyers from any Russian region,
including the Moscow region,
membership in the union is free. We are
not a commercial organisation, so we
offer free consultations and organisational
services to multi-brand stores. Our
overhead costs are covered by clothing
manufacturers who are interested in
entering the Russian market and whom
we choose very carefully in order to
recommend them to union participants.
I can’t stress enough that we currently
have so many applications from interested
parties who wish to get into the Russian
clothing and shoe market, but we select
only those who, according to our expert
opinion, will be interesting to our market
population.
Our plans for the near future include
establishing a special ‘Best Luxury Store’
award, publishing a book entitled ‘The
100 Best Russian Stores’, and opening a
temporary showroom exhibit to take place
in Moscow at the end of February or the
beginning of March.
How much do the requests of regional
buyers differ from those of Moscow
buyers?
Of course Moscow buyers differ from
others in that they want to work with
brands catering to privileged economic
spheres. Requests from regional stores
are different, but not significantly so. For
example, northern regions require a lot
more warm clothing items (down coats,
autumn and spring jackets) than southern
regions. In terms of brands, there is
practically no difference in the requests.
Which region has shown the most interest
in the union?
So far we cover the central and southern
parts of Russia better. In 2016, we will
concentrate on attracting union members
from eastern and western Siberia, the
Altai region, the Ural mountain region,
Tatarstan, Bashkiria, and other less well-
represented areas.
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ANTONIA – A SYNONYM
FOR STYLE AND
INNOVATION
MILAN IS CONSIDERED TO BE ONE OF THE WORLD’S MAIN FASHION CENTRES NOT ONLY
BECAUSE OF THE MANY DESIGNERS AND FASHION WEEKS IT\'S HOME TO, BUT ALSO
THANKS TO THE NUMBER OF STYLISH MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUES FOUND HERE, WHICH
ATTRACT CUSTOMERS FROM ALL OVER THE WORLD. ONE OF THE MOST SPECIAL IS
ANTONIA, TUCKED AWAY IN VIA CUSANI, 5
In the heart of the bohemian area of Brera you’ll find the
ancient Cagnola mansion, which once housed the office
of the Austrian commander Joseph Radetzky. Now this
elegant building with its beautiful garden has become
a ‘palace-boutique’, as it’s called by its owner, famous
Italian buyer Antonia Giacinti. A few years ago she and
her business partner Maurizio Purificato decided to bring
together assorted items from three small boutiques where
women’s and men’s collections and accessories were
represented. After the relocation Antonia’s concept did
not change, but just enjoyed more splendid surroundings:
an ornate ceiling, marble walls and grand arches. History
and architecture were merged with fashion, making the
boutique a must-visit for all fashion lovers.
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85
Antonia Giacinti thinks the secret of her business
success lies in her thorough approach: ‘It is not
enough to just look for and select brands. You should
be attentive to every detail, such as store decoration,
the presentation of items, the way staff communicate
with clients. You should never lose sight of any aspect
or let it become more important than any other.’
Both world-famous brands and quite new ones are
represented in the boutique in Via Cusani. Antonia
and Maurizio combine them so well that many clients
come there specifically to look for combinations of
newer and more established designers’ clothing. The
buyers plan to increase the variety on offer, adding
young Italian designers’ collections.
With regard to competition with online shops, Antonia
has found an optimal solution running an extended online
version of her own boutique. It’s not only an e-commerce
channel but a whole virtual fashion empire, where you can
both change your wardrobe and enjoy a virtual tour of the
Cagnola mansion’s trading halls. You can also find out about
main trends and world fashion news. There is a special
section, ‘Mag’ which is being always updated.
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EKATERINA ODINTSOVA
She opened the PR Trend agency a few
years ago and in this short period it
has established itself as a recognised
expert in the field of product promotion
and organising luxury events, both in
Russia and abroad. The agency’s clients
include such world famous brands as
Pfizer, Mary Kay, Uomo Collezioni, Aldo
Coppola and Tarik Ediz.
86
EKATERINA ODINTSOVA, OWNER OF THE PR TREND AGENCY, FORMER TV
HOSTESS AND CLASSIC BEAUTY, COUNTS ON USING ONLINE
RESOURCES FOR BRAND PROMOTION
Many say that the contemporary fashion
market is not going through the best of
times: compared to the 00s, the demand for
cult brands’ clothes has dropped; and it has
become popular to mix luxury brands with
mass-market ones. Has this situation affected
fashion brands’ sales?
Yes, it has. According to research conducted
by Bain & Company, in 2014 our local luxury
market reduced by 18 percent. A few large
brands invested a lot in advertising and
gained in popularity. It seemed that their
leadership was unbeatable. But the world has
changed: information has become multi-
channel. If earlier we learned about brand
relevance from several expensive glossy
magazines, today’s fashion, to a large extent, is
shaped by fashion bloggers, trendsetters, and
street style celebrities. Glossy magazines still
dominate, though new channels, for exam-
ple, Instagram, have appeared. It is extremely
important that every newly designed item ap-
pears on the internet immediately. In promo-
tion, speed is one of the critical factors.
Which techniques work best for web promo-
tion?
The web presently encompasses at least ten
promotion channels, including social media
marketing (SMM), YouTube marketing, context
advertising, and search engine optimization
(SEO). None of them can be deemed the best,
and none should be focused upon exclusively.
A wise combination of several channels specif-
ic for each brand is the safest way to promote.
Your agency, PR Trend, works with the world’s
fashion industry moguls, such as the footwear
giant Stuart Weitzman, as well as with the
youngest Russian brands just entering the
market. What is the difference in promoting
these two very different kinds of client?
Our approaches are dramatically different.
Celebrities love Stuart Weitzman, so such
footwear needs no introduction. But if we’re
talking about a young brand, it needs to
possess a distinctive, zeitgeisty identity, and
some bright outstanding features to catch
people’s attention. We can help it receive
a well-deserved award, promoting it to as
many celebrities as possible – fashionable,
forward-thinking ones – and help the brand
make star friends.
Can Russian brands compete with foreign
ones, at least in the Russian market?
It’s the high noon of Russian fashion. Our
brands have already evolved into full-fledged
competitors to international ones. If we exam-
ine celebrities’ outfits at social events, over
half of them are of domestic origin. Still, our
brands yet have not succeeded in the luxury
footwear segment – except for Aleksander
Siradekian. Other brands cannot attain the top
level: their models are good for everyday life
while footwear couture intended for celebrity
events is represented by just one designer.
But I am sure it’s just a beginning!
What was the most unusual social event
aimed at fashion brand promotion that
you’ve organised?
Recently we organised a pyjama party – for
the promotion of Polina Askeri for Noele,
an evening pajamas brand. I cannot say that
it was an extraordinary event – our flow of
thought was rather predictable. But a pyjama
party instead of a usual runway was very effec-
tive. A pyjama catwalk would not attract that
much attention, while at our show, celebrities
jumped on beds, had pillow fights, everybody
enjoyed posing for the photographers… The
shots spread across mass media very quickly,
as they were funny and rather unusual.
\'DON’T FEAR THE
INTERNET\'
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87
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http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/EVENTS
\' E x c i t i n g p r o j e c t s l a u n c h e d n o w, s u c h a s t h e T u t o r s h i p
p r o j e c t i n t e n d e d f o r y o u n g d e s i g n e r s , t h e a g r e e m e n t s w i t h
t h e D i s c o v e r y F o u n d a t i o n a n d t h e U f f i z i G a l l e r y a n d m a n y
m o r e – a l l o f t h e s e g i v e s u s e v e r y r e a s o n t o b e o p t i m i s t i c
a b o u t t h e f u t u r e .\'
R a f f a e l l o N a p o l e o n e , P i t t i I m m a g i n e
P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f P i t t i I m m a g i n e p r e s s o f f i c e
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EXCEEDING
EXPECTATIONS
THE RECORD NUMBER OF BUYERS WHO VISITED THE PITTI UOMO TRADE
SHOW THIS YEAR GIVE US HOPE FOR THE IMMINENT RISE OF THE MENS-
WEAR MARKET, ESPECIALLY IN EUROPEAN COUNTRIES AND THE USA
In the plethora of
international inter-industry
trade shows dedicated to
men’s fashion, you can hardly
find a more prestigious one
than Pitti Immagine Uomo.
It contains the full range
of items that represent the
fashion industry of today:
from the latest trends to
timeless classics, from
shirts and ties to suits and
outerwear, and from foot- and
knitwear to bags and hats.
It all started in the 50s, when
the White Hall of the Palazzo
Pitti in Florence welcomed
the first fashion runway.
This was the place and the
time that the Pitti Immagine
company first originated –
aimed at organising events
that would popularise Made
in Italy fashion, which at that
time had just started gaining
worldwide fame. Runways
and trade shows arranged by
Pitti Immagine made Florence
not only a priceless piece of
cultural and historical heritage
but also a centre for fashion
and lifestyle.
Today, the Pitti Immagine
Pitti Uomo trade show is held
twice a year, introducing
the best that the Italian and
the world fashion industry
has to offer to multinational
buyers. The latest show, held
on January 12-15 2016, was
the 89th one. Compared to
the previous seasons affected
TEXT: Marta Topolskaya
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
PITTI GENERATION
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by the challenging state
of the European economy,
this time the show broke
records regarding the
number of exhibits (with
1,219 participating brands)
and the number of visitors,
including buyers, trade
press journalists, and fashion
industry experts. The number
of visitors totalled 36,000!
The number of buyers who
visited the trade show for
the four days of its work
alone reached 24,800, 4%
higher than the previous year
before; 8,800 of them came
from abroad (an increase of
2.5%) and 16,000 from Italy
(up 5%).
‘We are extremely happy
PITTI GENERATION
with the season’s results,’
said Raffaello Napoleone,
the managing director of Pitti
Immagine, ‘and most of all,
with the positive atmosphere
that dominated the stands.
‘Apart from the buzz
generated by the new
collections, there was
increased interest in the
events beyond the general
programme – those that
completely filled the city.
The exciting projects being
launched now, such as the
Tutorship project intended
for young designers along
with the agreements with
the Discovery Foundation,
Uffizi Gallery, and many more,
give us every reason to be
optimistic about the future.
We are very conscious of the
fact that Florence and the Pitti
Uomo trade show are taking
on great importance for world
fashion.’
It should be mentioned
that the Russia was in the
top twenty countries in
terms of the number of
buyers present (a total of
182 visited the show) while,
quite understandably, their
number decreased in terms
of percentage. ‘We noticed
that there were less buyers
from Russia than before,’ said
PITTI UOMO TRADE SHOW IS HELD TWICE AYEAR,
INTRODUCING TO MULTINATIONAL BUYERS THE
BESTTHAT EITHER THE ITALIAN OR THE WORLD
FASHION INDUSTRY HAS TO OFFER
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Oxana Fedichkina, general
director of the Vittorio
Emanuele showroom, ‘though
the principal players in the
market, of course, visited the
show. It is unfortunate that
the economic situation did
not allow smaller retailers
to come because, in my
opinion, there is a fantastic
concentration of trendsetters
here, and a great opportunity
to really learn about the most
fashionable clothing, that
is, to understand what we
should strive to do.’
A kaleidoscope of trends
Coming to Florence, buyers
are all looking to find the
latest fashion industry
offerings in a variety of styles
– classic, casual, sporty, or
avant-garde.
Supporters of the classic
style were welcomed at
the Pitti Uomo, Make, the
Pop Up Stores, the Latest
Fashion Buzz, Eye Pop, and
Fashion At Work sections.
There, the coat, which has
been quite unnecessarily
put out to pasture through
recent seasons, took centre
stage. Coats took many
guises: small and neat or
flowing and oversized,
intentionally tapered with
quilted lining. Jackets,
practical and universal,
specifically intended for
indefatigable travellers
featured prominently among
the outer garments: wrinkle-
proof, water-resistant, and
with lots of convenient
pockets. A wide variety of
accessories, from traditional
briefcases to functional cases
for laptops and tablet PCs,
were meant to complement
them. The abundance of
hats on the stands – and
on the visitors’ heads was
VITTORIO BRANCHIZIO
VITTORIO BRANCHIZIO JUUN.J
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unexpected for many. The
show was also notable for
the numerous examples of
mixing and intermingling
of styles, such as knitwear
jackets with traditional British
motifs, or soft flannel jackets
with elastic thread, or those
made of boucle fabric. The
military trend was not going
to give up its position either:
it revealed itself in parkas
and military cut jackets. And
certainly, the art of craftsmen
is always timeless – hand-
crafted accessories were as
popular as ever.
Today, innovative
technologies are mixed
with classic traditions in
the art of dressmaking, in
the production of leather
accessories, and in knitwear.
Connoisseurs of avant-
garde trends could find
much of interest in the
Futuro Maschile, Touch!,
l’Altro Uomo, Born in the
USA, Unconventional, and
Open sections. The look was
reminiscent of the American
pilgrim fathers’ wardrobe:
fur-lined footwear, oversized
trousers, denim and wool
jacquards, checks and stripes,
and vintage-inspired items
- trenches, bomber jackets,
and parkas. Some signs of
gender mixing sometimes
appeared in unexpected
combinations of classic and
sporty, natural and ultra-
technological materials,
forms and silhouettes, equally
appealing to him and to her.
This trend was particularly
obvious in footwear – timeless
moccasins and Derby shoes,
rounded toes and thickened
soles made in a wide range of
sizes – or in the accessories,
where backpacks and
briefcases were interpreted
either as feminine or
masculine. Fans of dark style
were not forgotten: they
could enjoy leather jackets
with ample accessories,
sneakers and boots of varying
heights, and knitwear with
cult prints, all in black and
silver tones.
Finally, the casual style was
presented in the I Play, Urban
Panorama, and My Factory
sections. Special attention
was paid to contemporary
weatherproof fabrics
combined with natural
ones. Neoprene jackets
with down filling and those
made of stretch fabrics with
ultramodern ‘unsewn’ seams
and hidden zips, lightweight
and warm, were at the peak
of popularity.
For rain protection, designers
and technologists suggested
more advanced solutions not
only for traditional jackets
and trenches but also for
headwear and even bags.
The choice was broad:
water-resistant fabrics,
laminated nylon, breathable
Gore-Tex insulation, and
sophisticated constructions
with detachable insulation,
which would fully equip you
for any type of weather and
any location, either in the
city or in the open country.
Denim and tweed – more
common in the military
style – were also rethought
in a ‘technological’ way,
though nostalgic references
to the vintage past were still
being felt. Urban looks were
reminiscent of skin-tight
sailor jackets or shooting
coats with unstructured
details and thermos-pressed
appliqués. Slim fit, short
tweed jackets, double-
sided coats, camouflage, 3D
appliqués and graphic details
created a casual look, and
men had plenty to choose
from. Style boundaries are
now so vague that different
looks can mingle at will and
form the most unexpected
combinations. Give free
scope to your imagination!
TODAY, INNOVATIVE TECHNOLOGIES ARE MIXED WITH CLASSIC TRADITIONS
IN THE ART OF DRESSMAKING, IN THE PRODUCTION OF LEATHER
ACCESSORIES,AND IN KNITWEAR
ADIDAS ORIGINALS
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THE SUCCESS OF THE 82ND PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO SEASON REAFFIRMED THE LEAD-
ING ROLE OF THE FLORENCE EXHIBITION IN THE WORLD OF CHILDREN\'S FASHION
OPTIMISM AND EAGERNESS
TO LOOK TO THE FUTURE
Another Pitti Immagine
Bimbo exhibition, one of
the key events related to
children\'s fashion held in
Florence, broke a new record
for the number of foreign
participants. In fact 216
of 445 collections, viewed
by around 10,000 visitors,
originated from abroad. Such
popularity is not surprising,
as Pitti Immagine Bimbo is
the main displayer of all the
leading manufacturers of
children\'s clothing, shoes and
accessories. The exhibition
is a place where all the new
promising projects in this
segment are presented.
In the light of this season’s
theme, ‘Pitti Generations’,
the participants tried to
analyse how the preferences
of different generations are
combined in modern fashion
in terms of both style of
clothing and lifestyle. Speed
has become today’s reality,
while age is a mental concept
rather than an actual one.
The variety of trends was
amazing – there were
traditional Pitti Bimbo
brands with classic and
elegant collections, as well
as luxurious offerings from
the Apartment section,
KidzFIZZ’s strikingly creative
and experimental selection,
the EcoEthic collection
focused on environmentally
friendly materials, Pop Up
Stores accessories and
designs, sweeping beats
from Sport Generation
sportswear catwalk and
casual fashion for little
residents of megacities
SuperStreet.
This year Pitti Bimbo
celebrated a veteran of the
show, well-known children\'s
brand Simonetta. Simonetta
has enjoyed 40 years of
its participation in the
exhibition. On this occasion,
a movie based on the Pitti
Immagine screenplay was
shown where Simonetta
became a character: she
takes the little girl\'s hand
and moves into the world of
both the reality and magic of
fashion. There’s good reason
why the movie was called
‘Let the journey begin’. It is a
journey through collections
where the details of each
theme is revealed to a
curious child.
It is worth noting that
the N°21 brand’s creator
Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose
Pitti Bimbo’s runway for his
TEXT: Marta Topolskaya
PHOTO: courtesy of press offices
IL GUFO
IL GUFO
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debut children\'s collection,
designed for children from
4–12 years old and which was
created under a long-term
licence agreement with Grant
Spa. The highlight of the
exhibition was the return of
Miss Blumarine’s high style.
This fashionista in the world
of childrenswear displayed
its preliminary collection
for fall/winter 2016. Mafrat
Group unveiled its new large
scale project, a retail network
which includes the opening
of more than 100 Quore
Factory Store shops in 2016.
They are designed to shorten
the path from the producer
to the end consumer by
combining the prestige of a
multi-brand boutique with
the benefits of a franchise.
Magnificent Levi\'s and Guess
kids celebrated their return
by showing their gorgeous
fall/winter 2016 denim
collections.
‘Pitti Bimbo has confirmed
its role as the reference
point for international
children’s fashion,’ says
Raffaello Napoleone, CEO
of Pitti Immagine. ‘During
the event our companies
were able to meet all the
most important international
members of the children’s
fashion market. And even
though, in numerical terms,
foreign visitor numbers
were slightly down on last
year’s figures, the total
number of stores present was
unchanged. For us this is a
sign of the significant interest
international retailers have
in Pitti Bimbo at a time in
history when we know how
essential it is for buyers to
review their travel expenses
due to budgets. We were
very pleased to see signs of
growth in significant markets
like Russia and Ukraine
after their lower level of
participation in previous
seasons. Children’s fashion
is going through a period
of searching and we are
convinced that the results
of this season will give Pitti
Bimbo more energy and
optimism.’
CAPE
HILDA
KID\'S EVOLUTION
PERO PICCOLA STELLA JEAN
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THE SHOWCASE EXHIBIT
IN JANUARY PARIS BRINGS TOGETHER FASHION INDUSTRY AMBASSADORS FROM ALL
OVER THE WORLD. THEY’RE NOT ONLY HERE FOR THE HAUTE COUTURE FASHION WEEK,
WHICH IS TRADITIONALLY HELD AT THE END OF THE MONTH, BUT FOR THE FASHION
TRADE SHOWS WHO’S NEXT AND PREMIERE CLASSE
Text: Anastasia Khvatova Photo: Jules Faure
96
01
02
03
In contrast to fashion shows
attracting fashionistas,
bloggers and stylists,
these trade shows attract
professional buyers and
resemble a showroom,
belonging not to a single
manufacturer but with stalls
representing many. Over two
or three days – the typical
length of a trade show –
buyers and press look through
the huge number of brands
gathered in one location,
touch the garments, try them
on, and evaluate the quality
of fabrics and craftmanship.
The advantages of such a
format are obvious to both
parties: the concentration of
a great number of brands at
one venue is convenient both
for the buyers and press and
for the young brands that
have a chance to show their
wares to a large community of
professionals.
The programme of the
Who’s Next trade show
involves participation of
fashion brands from around
the world, split, for the
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97
01 LE BABE
02 PARABOOT
03 1000V
04 VOILA
05 CAPAZONIA
06 LITTLE WOMAN
PARIS
07 VOILA
08 BOO PALA
09 SPEKTRE
SUNGLASSES
10 DHRUV KAPOOR
04
06
08
07
05
09
visitors’ convenience, into
five thematic zones: Fame,
Private, Trendy, Urban, and
Studio. This season there were
200 brands represented in
the Fame section, including
young talents of prêt-à-porter
and demi-couture. The Private
category consisted of creative
labels with high commercial
potential, represented by
womenswear collections
embodying recent fashion
trends. The Trendy block had
as many as 75 womenswear
brands – all young and
budget-friendly. Another 75
brands were found in Urban,
which united menswear and
womenswear collections
typifying urban street style
and jeanswear. Finally, the
Studio category consisted
of prêt-à-porter collections
of 200 womenswear brands
representing the current key
trends.
Premiere Classe is one of the
world’s largest trade shows
in the accessories segment.
Traditionally, it has been held
in the famous Tuileries Garden
four times a year for the last
25 years. Footwear, bags,
headwear, gloves and other
accessories – the Premiere
Classe trade show introduces
its guests to the key trends of
the coming season.
Interest in the shows grows
year on year. According to the
official press release issued
by the organisers following
the trade shows, within a few
days of their opening, Who\'s
Next and Premiere Classe
were visited by almost 50,000
guests. This number is up
by 18% on September 2015
when the previous trade show
session took place.
In spite of talks about
the crisis, all the largest
retailers were present at the
showground site. Moreover,
due to the first appearance of
the Ukrainian boutique Villa
Gross, the Korean concept
shop Rare Market and
KaDeWe, one of the major
department stores of Berlin,
the number of VIP buyers
increased. A large group of
Japanese professionals took
part in the trade show – along
with buyers from Korea, Hong
Kong, China, Singapore, and
Thailand. The buyers enjoyed
the privilege of being the
first to see the women’s
pre-fall collections, men’s
fall collections, and women’s
haute couture.
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THIS SEASON’S KEY
FASHION SHOWS:
FEBRUARY-MARCH 2016
Traditionally February and March offer us a
first glimpse of women\'s collections for the
following fall/winter season. A kaleidoscope
of different fashion shows and events awaits
fashion industry professionals in the next
two months, with the main fashion weeks
starting one after another. The baton is
passed from Tokyo to London, Milan, Paris
and, finally, Moscow before Fashion Week
ends in New York.
We’ve got all the details of the most
important fairs and exhibitions especially
for buyers, and you can access it all in our
calendar. Here you can view all the newest
and most fashionable collections of clothes,
shoes and accessories, place orders for
your shops for the next season, find useful
contacts and simply browse and enjoy
yourself.
If you want to attend one of the events it’s
usually enough to register on behalf of your
company via the fair’s official website.
Text: Alisa Nesterova
Moscow
CPM MOSCOW
CPM is the leading fashion fair in Eastern
Europe and Russia. It represents international
brands of clothing focused on the Russian
market, Segments include children’s clothing,
premium class, accessories and underwear.
Fashion shows and workshops for buyers also
take place within in the framework of the fair.
Location: Expocentre
www.cpm-moscow.ru
SHOES: A WORLD OF
LEATHER
The leading specialised fair of footwear
and leather goods in Russia and CIS. It
is attended by about 200 manufacturers
from different countries annually, with
high-quality Italian brands particularly
well-represented. The fashion footwear
show is complemented by a specialised
salon featuring bags, leather haberdash-
ery and accessories.
Location: Expocentre
www.obuv-expo.ru
23-26
Feb
22-25
Mar
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TRANOI
Tranoi Paris is the largest and most pres-
tigious platform for young designers and
fashion brands in Europe. The fair presents
medium/high and high-level clothing and
accessories – a quality selection, thanks to
which Tranoi has gained success through-
out the world. Since there\'s a long list of
participants you should allocate at least
two or three days to visit.
Location: 1. Palais de la Bourse,
2. Carrousel du Louvre,
3. Cité de la Mode e du Design
www.tranoi.com
PREMIERE CLASSE
This professional fair is mainly focused on
shoes and accessories, making it primar-
ily of interest to those buyers looking for
shoes, handbags and quality jewellery
manufacturers.
Location: 1. Jardin des Tuileries
2. Pavillon Cambon
www.premiere-classe.com
CAPSULE
Not particularly big, but a very interesting
fair nonetheless for buyers looking for
modern fashion collections in the high
price category. Also takes place in New
York and Las Vegas.
Location: 1. Tapis Rouge, 67 rue du Fau-
bourg Saint-Martin
www.capsuleshow.com
4-7
Mar
4-7
Mar
4-7
Mar
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14-17
Feb
Milan
MICAM AND MIPEL
MICAM is the world’s largest professional
footwear fair, attended by about 1500
manufacturers.The pavilions are divided by
price point: from economy class goods to
the luxury segment.The fair also boasts other
events and shows, where you can find out
about the latest trends and products in the
fashion industry. MIPEL – a leading bag and
accessories show – will be held in the same
exhibition area.
Location: Rho Fiera Milano
www.micamonline.com
www.mipel.com
THE WHITE SHOW
The White Show is a fashion clothing fair,
presented by young and promising designers,
and has already garnered considerable critical
acclaim both in Italy and the rest of the world.
If you’re searching for new names for your
shop, it’s the place to be.The exhibition stands
focus on garments, but there are also shoes
and accessories.
Location: via Tortona, 27-35-54, Milan
www.whiteshow.it
MIFUR
MIFUR – the International Fur and Leather
Exhibition – is a real attraction for buyers
looking for leather and fur goods. It is
attended by about 100 manufacturers
annually.
Location: the 8th and 12th pavilions of
Fiera Milano City. www.mifur.com
27-29
Feb
2-5
Mar
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COTERIE
One of the world-leading fairs of women\'s
clothing and accessories for fashion
industry professionals, Coterie offers
buyers the chance to get acquainted
with the latest trends and most talented
designers. It takes place biannually in
spring and autumn.
Location: Javits Centre
www.enkshows.com/coterie/
CAPSULE
Another interesting fair for fashion industry
professionals, where modern brands and
independent high-level designers are
presented. Capsule would be particularly
useful to owners of boutiques stocking
luxury youth clothing.
Location: Pier 94, 711 12th Ave, 10019
www.capsuleshow.com
TRANOI
Along with Coterie and Capsule you can
also visit Tranoi. The fair takes place six
times a year: four in Paris and two in New
York.
Location: The Tunnel
www.tranoi.com
w York
22-24
Feb
21-23
Feb
21-23
Feb
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B U Y E R
SAECO: THE SECRET
OF PERFECT COFFEE
INNOVATION – THAT’S WHAT UNDERLIES EACH SAECO COFFEE MACHINE. YOUR PERFECT
ESPRESSO, CAPPUCCINO, LATTE MACCHIATO OR OTHER DELICIOUS DRINK IS AVAILABLE AT
THE TOUCH OF A BUTTON
SAECO EXPRELIA EVO. Automatic coffee machine
Create your unique taste with Exprelia customising the pre-brewing time!
In this model, to extract maximum flavour and aroma from ground coffee beans,
they are pre-soaked before the brew starts. Compared to ordinary espresso
coffee machines with a pre-brewing feature, Saeco lets you customise the
coffee length, which makes every drink unique and brewed exactly as you wish.
Moreover, the machine has 15 grind granularity settings – for true coffee lovers.
SAECO GRANBARISTO AVANTI
Automatic coffee machine
The first coffee machine that you can operate with your tablet!
With GranBaristo Avanti you can enjoy a variety of drinks customised exactly to
your taste via your tablet. Now all you need for a perfect cup is at your fingertips.
Download the Saeco Avanti application to your tablet or smartphone, set up a
secure connection via Bluetooth 4.0, select any of the 18 delicious drinks and
configure settings on your smart device – or just use the OneTouch buttons on
the coffee machine.With GranBaristo Avanti, the first automatic coffee machine
operated via a smart device, entertaining guests is so much easier!
SAECO INCANTO. Automatic coffee machine
The Saeco Incanto coffee machine sets new standards in its class. In the exquisite
body frame, contemporary Italian technologies are enclosed, developed to deliver
divine coffee on a daily basis. Incanto offers true Italian espresso or ‘lungo’ (long
espresso), fabulous latte macchiato, thick-froth cappuccino – all with a single button
press. Due to its compact size, Incanto is a perfect fit for any interior in any home or
office.
SAECO XELSIS EVO
Automatic coffee machine
The Saeco Xelsis Evo coffee machine lets
you make different drinks for several users.
With its unique customisation feature, it
allows you to create up to six user profiles
and save up to nine programmes for each.
Now all your family members can enjoy
the drink they love. Configure ideal froth
settings and appreciate the variety of tastes
available with a single twist of a knob.
To unfold the coffee flavour to the fullest
extent, you can choose from eight grinding
settings, from the finest, for a rich strong
espresso, to the coarsest, for a more delicate
taste.
INCANTO HD8912/09 INCANTO
HD8918/09
XELSIS EVO HD8954/09, HD8953/09
GRANBRISTO AVANTI HD8969/09
SAECO EXPRELIA EVO
HD8859/01, HD8858/01
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FASHION WEEKS REPRESENTATIME OF STYLE AND BEAUTY WHEN EVERYONE GETS THEIR FIRST GLIMPSE OF
THE TRENDS FOR THE FOLLOWING SEASON. DESIGNERS EXHIBITTHEIR NEW COLLECTIONS TO A LUCKY FEW
INCLUDING THE PRESS AND BUYERS,TWO INTEGRAL LINKS IN THE FASHION CHAIN.THE MOST FAMOUS AND
PRESTIGIOUS FASHION CAPITAL CITIES, NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN AND PARIS, HAVE RECENTLY SEEN THE
APPEARANCE OF NEW-ENTRY FASHION WEEKS, SUCH AS MOSCOW, BERLIN AND TOKYO
FEBRUARY – MARCH
2016 FASHION WEEKS
Text: Alisa Nesterova
In spite of the fact that some of the top designers rotate between
the Big Four cities for their shows from year to year, there are
still some conceptual differences between the different fashion
weeks from the viewpoint of journalists and buyers, and it’s
very useful to know about them in advance. New York Fashion
Week is considered to be more commercial: featuring a lot of
collections which will sell well. In addition, it is more focused
on sports and casual styles. London Fashion Week shows are
often more conceptual and alternative – if you’re looking for the
cutting edge it’s the place to be. Milan is often extravagant but
always stylish and feminine, while Paris is simply the mecca of
haute couture.
For the majority of fashion shows an invitation is required,
but fashion weeks also feature a lot of other events, from
presentations in boutiques and showrooms to professional fairs
for buyers. You can always find information about major fashion
weeks, show schedules, videos and photos on the website
fashionweekonline.com.
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LONDON
19 – 23 February
In contrast to NYFW, London Fashion Week (LFW) is the
youngest of the Big Four. It was first held in 1984 and it still
remains the most innovative and cutting-edge fashion
event in the world, featuring many new and unknown
designers on the verge of breaking through. You can
also admire the quirky and unusual street style of the UK
capital, unlike anywhere else in the world.
The fall/winter 2016-2017 shows of brands including
Simone Rocha, Vivienne Westwood, Paul Smith, Alexander
McQueen, and Burberry will take place as part of this
fashion week.
www.londonfashionweek.co.uk
NEW YORK
11 – 18 February
New York Fashion Week (NYFW) is the premier fashion event outside of
Europe. Curiously, New York was also where everything started: in 1943
the first World Fashion Week was held in this American metropolis. Since
trips to world fashion capital Paris weren’t possible during the Second
World War, journalist Eleanor Lambert had the bright idea of organising
fashion shows at home. It became the finest hour of American designers,
who went unnoticed before this new chance to shine.
From 11 – 18 February designers from both America and abroad present
their new fall/winter collections on the New York runways. The most
important names include Lacoste, Alexander Wang, Victoria Beckham,
Vera Wang, Oscar de la Renta, DKNY, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Marc
Jacobs and many others.
nyfw.com
MILAN
24 February – 1 March
It’s no wonder Milan Fashion Week is one of the most reputable and
prestigious fashion events in the world. Along with France, Italy was
a recognised trendsetter long before any appearance of the fashion
week phenomenon. The compactness of the city in comparison
to other fashion capitals makes visiting shows and showrooms
comfortable and pleasant: no need to hurry here! Of all the fashion
weeks Milan’s is famous for graceful and glamorous images, sometimes
extravagant and ultra-fashionable but often still echoing the classic
canons of style.
New collections will be presented by Giorgio Armani, MSGM, Salvatore
Ferragamo, Trussardi, Roberto Cavalli, Jil Sander, TOD\'S, Versace,
Gucci, Prada, Moschino and others.
www.milanomodadonna.it
PARIS
1 – 9 March
Of all the fashion capitals Paris wears the crown, hosting
the most prestigious and most visited fashion week in
the world. It’s considered the fashion industry leader not
only because of the list of shows but also because of the
traditional high buyer demand. During Paris Fashion Week
large professional fairs of clothing and accessories and
showroom presentations are also held throughout the city.
It’s enough to mention just some names of fashion houses
who chose Paris for a presentation of new women’s
collections for fall/winter 2016-17: Rochas, Lanvin, Balmain,
Chloé, Loewe, Issey Miyake, Christian Dior, Elie Saab,
Chanel, Valentino, Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton.
www.modeaparis.com
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NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN, AND PARIS ARE A GIVEN. BUT THE FASHION
INDUSTRY GOES BEYOND THESE FOUR FASHION CAPITALS! WE’VE CHOSEN
FIVE MORE KEY FASHION WEEKS THAT SHOULD BE ON EVERY BUYER’S
CALENDAR
5 FASHION WEEKS THAT
WE SHOULD TAKE A
CLOSER LOOK AT
TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova
106
01
02
01 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION
WEEK TOKYO
Where: Tokyo, Japan
When: March 14–19 2016
Since Rei Kawakubo from Comme des Garçons
conquered Paris back in the 80s, the whole world
has had a soft spot both for the avante-garde
and bright Japanese style. So it is not surprising
that lots of buyers come to see the shows held
as part of the Tokyo Fashion Week. The most
prominent of the Asian fashion runways displays
each season’s creative and sometimes downright
kitsch collections of fifty designers and brands,
which could even replicate Rei’s success in Paris or
New York some day. We recommend that you pay
attention to the brands of Hiroko Koshino, Keita
Maruyama, and byU.
02 ARAB FASHION WEEK
Where: Dubai, UAE
When: March 16–19 2016
This new but rapidly developing fashion week is
held with the support of the Arab Fashion Council.
Among the designers showing off their demi-
couture creations within the Arab Fashion Week
were many well known by European audiences –
Tony Ward, Giada Cutri, and Genny – as well as
local brands. Although the list of labels taking part
in the fashion week in March will not be published
on the official site until the middle of February,
Dubai is always worth a visit for its local traditions
and the luxurious evening gowns to buy for special
events and occasions.
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Photo: Elisabeth Eibye
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05
03
04 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK AUSTRALIA
Where: Sidney, Australia
When: May 15–21 2016
This year the Australian fashion week celebrated its 20th anniversary. A few
years ago the organisers were criticised for their unwillingness to hold the
fashion week in February-March according to the usual schedule, as well as for
presenting collections of young designers who tended to copy their European
and American colleagues rather than create their own trends. But today former
critics cannot but observe the dramatically increased level of the participants’
expertise. Labels whose collections just cannot be missed include Zimmermann,
Toni Maticevski, Camilla and Marc, Tome, and Dion Lee.
03 MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION
WEEK BERLIN
Where: Berlin, Germany
When: July 2016
Berlin’s fashion week is about to celebrate its 18th
birthday at the Brandenburg Gate, a landmark of
the city of Berlin. The main fashion week of Germany
will take place before the four fashion capitals
runways start, so the collections presented by the
participating designers will be absolutely fresh. The
week also includes several other fashion shows in
Berlin, including Premium, Panorama, and Green
Showroom, the latter being one of the champions of
sustainable and ecological fashion.
05 COPENHAGEN FASHION WEEK
Where: Copenhagen, Denmark
When: August 2016
Traditionally, twice a year the main Scandinavian
fashion week presents designers whose
collections are made in the conventional
minimalistic style of the Nordic countries – but
don’t go thinking you won’t find any creativity here.
The key names are By Malene Birger, Ganni, Bruuns
Bazaar, DAY Birger et Mikkelsen, and Henrik
Vibskov. The schedule doesn’t just involve the
runway shows, as a few fashion trade shows are
held simultaneously: CIFF, CIFF KIDS, CIFF Raven,
and Revolver present over 1,000 exhibitors from all
over the world. Another reason to visit the capital
of Denmark during fashion week is the street style
of the local fashion editors and bloggers, many
of whom have long become stars of street-style
chronicles and Instagram posts.
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THE BIG CITY
SHOP
WINDOW
B U Y E R
108
VIA BUS STOP
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THE MOST LUXURIOUS STREETS
OF EUROPEAN FASHION
CAPITALS HAVE PLENTY TO
BE JEALOUS OF IN TOKYO\'S
SHOPPING STREETS. INDUS-
TRY GIANTS SUCH AS PRADA,
LOUIS VUITTON AND FENDI
HAVE OPENED SPECTACULAR
MONOBRAND BOUTIQUES
AND CORNERS IN NUMEROUS
DEPARTMENT STORES IN THE
JAPANESE CAPITAL
Tokyo is not only a must-visit destina-
tion for shoppers, but also a mecca for
fashion professionals. Designers and
stylists come here to be inspired by the
street fashion of Shibuya district. Analysts
study local market trends, where there is
still potential for luxury segment growth.
Buyers visit Japan to discover the collec-
tions of rising fashion stars who may well
be poised on the brink of international
success following Yohji Yamamoto and
Kenzo, or the younger Sacai and Toga.
Exclusive and fashionable Aoyama district
is full of detached buildings with mono-
brand and multibrand boutiques: each
brand here has created an architectural
style that reflects its own aesthetics. On
the main street of the same name is the
world-famous Prada boutique: a six-sto-
rey building with fully transparent walls
made of diamond-shaped glass panels.
World-renowned fashion names rub
shoulders with well-known multi-brand
boutiques such as Via Bus Stop, as well as
monobrands of more niche designers.
The showcases of the Aoyama district
deserve special attention. The most
innovative trends in visual merchandising
and installation, developed by creatives
behind the brands, inspire retailers
from all over the world to come up with
their own fresh ideas for shop windows.
The flagship boutiques of international
companies are obviously unmissable, but
local multi-brand stores chains, for ex-
ample Tomorrowland and United Arrows,
are also worth your attention.
Aoyama district, merging into Omotesan-
do Avenue, combines high-end fashion
boutiques and luxury jewellery brands
with the no less fashionable buildings of
Zara and H&M. One can see this trend in
other Tokyo neighbourhoods, too, and
perhaps this is proof of the successful
co-existence of high fashion and the
mass market not only on the streets
but also in wardrobes. They both pay
much attention to the development of
retail strategies and creative concepts,
which have the potential to attract new
customers and to create a loyal audi-
ence. Shop windows, shop interiors and
presentational strategies largely influ-
ence the success of any retail space, and
the shops in Aoyama personify the most
innovative ideas in terms of design and
sale efficiency.
TEXT: Marina Bugranova
PHOTO: Lior Susana
109
PRADA
OMOTESANDO HILLS
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Text: Alisa Nesterova
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FASHION CITYGUIDE
New York
BREAKFAST
The Plaza hotel in the heart of Manhattan is
one of the most referenced in movies and
glossy magazines.The hotel’s been home to
Kevin from Home Alone, an ideal wedding lo-
cation in Bride Wars, a filming location for The
Great Gatsby with Leonardo DiCaprio – it even
put up the Beatles during their first tour in
New York. It also happens to serve one of the
most famous breakfasts in the city.What could
be a better way to fuel up ready for a great
day full of fashion shows and new experiences
than a morning coffee at the Plaza?
Fifth Avenue at Central Park South
Tel: 212 759 3000
www.theplazany.com
LUNCH
Fashionable restaurant Daniel is an iconic New
York hang-out that is worth visiting to enjoy
French haute cuisine and unusual delicacies
in an elegant and relaxed atmosphere perfect
for important business meetings, especially
if you want to make an impression.Just be
ready for the steep bill.
60 East 65th Street at Park Avenue
Tel: 212 288 0033
www.danielnyc.com
DINNER
Bouley is one of the most popular restau-
rants in the city, both with customers and
with New York’s exacting food critics. The
restaurant uses only the freshest seasonal
ingredients and most exquisite recipes.
Depending on the time of year, you will be
offered truffles, lobster, sturgeon caviar and
great wine.
163 Duane Street
Tel: 212 964 2525
www.davidbouley.com
NIGHTCLUB
In the trendy part of New York’s Meatpacking
District, located on the shore of Hudson Bay,
you’ll find Le Bain, a popular bar and club
that takes up the penthouse and roof of the
Standard hotel. In the summer, parties are
held by the pool, but the stunning views can
be enjoyed year round. It’s an incredible
place to relax and enjoy New York’s fantastic
energy.
444 West 13th Street. Tel: 212 645 76 00
www.standardhotels.com
SPA
After a busy day full of new impressions and adventures, it\'s time to relax and unwind.
Guerlain Spa located in the Waldorf Astoria hotel is perfect for this. The fancy interior,
excellent service and luxury cosmetics make it one of the most prestigious in New York.
100 E 50th Street
Tel: 212 872 7200
www.waldorfnewyork.com/spa
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NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
11th-18th February 2016
09|00 NICHOLAS K
THE DOCK
10|00 BCBGMAXAZRIA
THE ARC
11|00 KYE
THE GALLERY
11|30 JAY GODFREY
THE SPACE
15|00 DESIGUAL
VTHE ARC
16|00 MARISSA WEBB
MARISSA WEBB
18|00 KIDS ROCK!
THE DOCK
19|00 MARCEL OSTERTAG
THE GALLERY
19|00 HANLEY
THE SPACE
20|00 GO RED FOR WOMEN
THE ARC
11TH
FEBRUARY
THURSDAY
12TH
FEBRUARY
FRIDAY
09|00 KARIGAM
THE SPACE
10|00 TADASHI SHOJI
THE ARC
11|00 YIGAL AZROUËL
THE GALLERY
12|00 CONCEPT KOREA
THE DOCK
15|00 CUSHNIE ET OCHS
THE GALLERY
16|00 FASHION HONG KONG
THE DOCK
16|30 O’2ND
THE SPACE
18|00 NICOLE MILLER
THE GALLERY
19|00 FRANCESCA LIBERATORE
THE DOCK
21|00 DEMOO PARKCHOONMOO
DEMOO PARKCHOONMOO
13TH
11|00 TAORAY WANG
THE DOCK
12|00 REBECCA MINKOFF
THE GALLERY
13|00 HERVÉ LÉGER
THE ARC
14|00 SON JUNG WAN
THE DOCK
15|00 LEANNE MARSHALL
THE GALLERY
18|00 BAJA EAST
THE DOCK
19|00 MONIQUE LHUILLIER
THE ARC
FEBRUARY
FRIDAY
THE ARC, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION
THE GALLERY AT SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ
THE DOCK, SKYLIGHT AT MOYNIHAN STATION
THE SPACE AT SKYLIGHT CLARKSON SQ
OFF-SITE SHOWS
14TH
09|00 TAORAY WANG
THE DOCK
12|00 REBECCA MINKOFF
THE GALLERY
12|00 HERVÉ LÉGER
THE ARC
12|30 SON JUNG WAN
THE DOCK
13|00 LEANNE MARSHALL
THE GALLERY
17|30 BAJA EAST
THE DOCK
18|00 MONIQUE LHUILLIER
THE ARC
19|00 MONIQUE LHUILLIER
THE ARC
19|00 MONIQUE LHUILLIER
THE ARC
FEBRUARY
SUNDAY
11|00 TOMMY HILFIGER
TBC
12|00 LELA ROSE
THE GALLERY
13|00 THOMAS WYLDE
THE DOCK
14|00 JEREMY SCOTT
THE ARC
18|00 REEM ACRA
THE DOCK
18|30 LIBERTINE
THE GALLERY
19|00 VIVIENNE TAM
THE ARC
15TH
FEBRUARY
MONDAY
16TH
FEBRUARY
TUESDAY
10|00 CHIARABONILAPETITE ROBE
THE DOCK
11|00 VERA WANG
THE ARC
13|00 HIROMI ASAI
THE DOCK
13|00 ANGEL SANCHEZ
148 WEST 37TH STREET
14|00 DENNIS BASSO
THE ARC
14|00 ALICE+OLIVIABYS.BENDET
THE GALLERY
17|00 CARMEN MARC VALVO
THE ARC
17|30 SALINAS
THE DOCK
19|00 GEORGINE
THE GALLERY
20|30 THE ART INSTITUTES
THE ARC
17TH
10|00 MICHAEL KORS
50 VARICK STREET
11|00 XULY BET
THE GALLERY
12|00 NAEEM KHAN
THE ARC
13|00 BIBHU MOHAPATRA
THE DOCK
14|00 BIBHU MOHAPATRA
THE GALLERY
14|00 BOSS WOMEN
TBC
15|00 DKNY
TBC
17|00 MARCHESA
THE DOCK
18|00 ANNA SUI
THE ARC
FEBRUARY
WEDNESDAY
18TH
10|00 RALPH LAUREN
550 WASHINGTON STREET
11|00 RALPH LAUREN
550 WASHINGTON STREET
FEBRUARY
THURSDAY
BOSS PRE-FALL 2016
NYFW.COM
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FASHION CITYGUIDE
BREAKFAST
Whether you prefer muesli, pancakes,
scrambled eggs or a hearty breakfast with
bacon and hash browns,The Riding House
Café has got it all.The informal and friendly
atmosphere has quickly won the hearts of
Londoners, and the varied and tasty choices
on the menu guarantee that you will not stay
hungry.
43-51 Great Titchfield Street
Tel: 020 7927 0840
www.ridinghousecafe.co.uk
LUNCH
For a piece of Italy in London our choice is Mu-
rano Cafè for its cosy atmosphere and simple
but tasty dishes cooked with fresh ingredients,
perfect for a quick and restorative lunch.The
menu changes daily.Two restaurants work un-
der the guidance of chef Angela Harnett – one
by St James, the other in Covent Garden.
33 St.James\'s Street
Tel: 020 3371 5559
36 Tavistock Street
Tel: 020 7240 3654
www.cafemurano.co.uk
DINNER
Two Michelin stars and traditional British cuisine
with a modern designer interpretation is a winning
combination that attracts both native Londoners
and curious tourists.We are referring of course to
the Dinner by Heston Blumenthal restaurant at the
Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel, conveniently
located a few steps away from the Knightsbridge
underground station, the famous department
store Harrods and Hyde Park. Perfect location, ex-
quisite cuisine from chef Ashley Palmer-Watts and
a great reputation.
66 Knightsbridge .Tel: 020 7201 3833
www.dinnerbyheston.com
BEAUTY SALON
The Windle & Moodie hair salon has been popular for over thirty years,
which comes as no surprise. Here premium service is combined with
a luxurious interior.The salon is recommended to both its visitors and
prestigious glossy magazines, as here experienced stylists create imag-
es for fashion shows and photo shoots.
41-45 Shorts Gardens
Tel: 020 7497 2393
www.windleandmoodie.com
PUB
Pubs are a quintessential part of traditional England, and London
has a great selection.Where should you go in the evening to enjoy
an ice-cold pint of beer? Try The Victoria, located north of Hyde
Park near Paddington station.The classic English-style interior and
countless varieties of beer are an excellent combination for an
evening in the company of your friends or colleagues.
10A Strathearn Place. Paddington
Tel: 020 7724 1191
www.victoriapaddington.co.uk
London
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LONDON FASHION WEEK
10|00 LFW PRIVATE VIEW BFC SHOW SPACE
10|30 SADIE WILLIAMS* BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
11|00 J. JS LEE BFC SHOW SPACE
11|30 ALICE ARCHER W1
12|00 FELDER FELDER SEE INVITATION
12|30 STEVENTAI WC2
13|00 EUDON CHOI BFC SHOW SPACE
13|30 EDELINE LEE SEE INVITATION
14|00 BORA AKSU SEE INVITATION
14|30 MANUEL FACCHINI SEE INVITATION
15|00 RYAN LO* BFC SHOW SPACE
15|30 MARTA JAKUBOWSKI* BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
16|00 DAKS W1
16|30 JOHN SMEDLEY SEE INVITATION
17|00 FYODOR GOLAN BFC SHOW SPACE
17|30 PAUL COSTELLOE SEE INVITATION
18|00 CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA SEE INVITATION
18|30 LE KILT SEE INVITATION
19|00 PPQ SEE INVITATION
20|00 CENTRAL SAINT MARTINS MA BFC SHOW SPACE
19TH FEBRUARY
FRIDAY
20TH FEBRUARY
SATURDAY
09|00 SHRIMPS BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
10|00 FASHION EAST TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
10|00 JASPER CONRAN BFC SHOW SPACE
10|30 FAUSTINE STEINMETZ* TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
11|00 BARBARA CASASOLA SEE INVITATION
11|30 PETER JENSEN SEE INVITATION
12|00 SIBLING BFC SHOW SPACE
13|00 JULIEN MACDONALD SEE INVITATION
13|30 MARKUS LUPFER SEE INVITATION
14|00 HOLLY FULTON BFC SHOW SPACE
14|30 ISA ARFEN BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
15|00 EMILIA WICKSTEAD SEE INVITATION
15|30 PALMER//HARDING SEE INVITATION
16|00 J.W. ANDERSON WC1
16|30 TEATUM JONES SEE INVITATION
17|30 1205 BFC SHOW SPACE
18|00 SIMONE ROCHA SEE INVITATION
19|00 HOUSE OF HOLLAND TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
19|30 MOLLY GODDARD* TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
19|30 ZANDRA RHODES BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
20|00 GARETH PUGH SEE INVITATION
21ST
09|00 PREEN BYT. BREGAZZI TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
9|30 NATASHA ZINKO SEE INVITATION
10|00 MARGARET HOWELL SEE INVITATION
10|30 HILL AND FRIENDS SEE INVITATION
10|30 CLAIRE BARROW* BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
11|00 ANYA HINDMARCH SEE INVITATION
12|00 MARY KATRANTZOU** SEE INVITATION
13|00 DAVID KOMA BFC SHOW SPACE
13|30 DANIELLE ROMERIL* SW1
14|00 TOPSHOP UNIQUE TOPSHOP SHOW SPACE
14|30 PHOEBE ENGLISH BFC PRESENTATION SPACE
15|00 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD SEE INVITATION
15|30 BELSTAFF SEE INVITATION
16|00 MULBERRY SEE INVITATION
16|30 HUISHAN ZHANG SEE INVITATION
17|00 PAUL SMITH SEE INVITATION
18|00 TEMPERLEY LONDON SEE INVITATION
19|00 ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SEE INVITATION
FEBRUARY
SUNDAY
09|00 ANTONIO BERARDI BFC SHOW SPACE
09|00 SOPHIA WEBSTER SEE INVITATION
10|00 ROKSANDA SEE INVITATION
11|00 ERDEM SEE INVITATION
12|00 PRINGLE OF SCOTLAND SEE INVITATION
13|00 BURBERRY SEE INVITATION
13|00 ASPINAL OF LONDON SEE INVITATION
14|00 AF VANDEVORST BFC SHOW SPACE
15|00 CHRISTOPHER KANE SEE INVITATION
16|00 OSMAN SEE INVITATION
17|00 PETER PILOTTO SEE INVITATION
17|30 TOOGOOD SEE INVITATION
18|00 JOSEPH SEE INVITATION
19|00 ASHISH BFC SHOW SPACE
22ND FEBRUARY
MONDAY
23RDFEBRUARY
TUESDAY
09|00 TOGA BFC SHOW SPACE
10|00 MOTHER OF PEARL SEE INVITATION
10|30 CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN SEE INVITATION
11|00 AMANDA WAKELEY N1
11|30 ALEXANDER LEWIS SEE INVITATION
12|00 MARQUES\'ALMEIDA SEE INVITATION
12|30 REJINA PYO SEE INVITATION
13|00 ASHLEY WILLIAMS* BFC SHOW SPACE
13|30 TATA NAKA SEE INVITATION
14|00 CELEBRATING NEWGEN BREWER STREET CAR PARK
15|00 EMILIO DE LA MORENA SEE INVITATION
16|00 XIAO LI *** BFC SHOW SPACE
19th-23th
February 2016
* BFC NEWGEN SPONSORED BY TOPSHOP
** BFC/VOGUE DESIGNER FASHION FUND
*** MERCEDES-BENZ GLOBAL EXCHANGE PROGRAMME
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN PRE-FALL 2016
LONDONFASHIONWEEK.CO.UK
http://www.floowie.com/ru/read/buyer-feb2016-eng/B U Y E R
VICTORIA AND ALBERT
MUSEUM
THE VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM (V&A) IS THE WORLD\'S GREATEST MUSE-
UM OF DECORATIVE ARTAND DESIGN, FOUNDED IN 1852. IT IS ONE OF THE
TWENTY MOSTVISITED MUSEUMS IN THE WORLD,WHICH IS NOT SURPRISING,
CONSIDERING THE UNRIVALLED VARIETYAND VOLUME OF THE COLLECTIONS
HELD THERE
The museum boasts more
than 50,000m2 exhibition
space, displaying 5000 years’
worth of rare treasures that
celebrate the history of our
desire for beauty, from the
lives of ancient civilizations to
the latest design and fashion
items.
The V&A’s clothing collection
is also the richest and
most comprehensive in
the world, which is why
we recommend all fashion
industry professionals, such
as our readers, attend one
of the themed exhibitions.
Key topics for the permanent
exhibition are 17th-century
gowns, 18th-century ‘mantua’
dresses, 1930s eveningwear,
1960s daywear and post-
war couture. In addition,
the museum is being
VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM
Text: Alisa Nesterova
114
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CLOTHING
updated with new exhibits
of contemporary designers
constantly and is always
opening up new rooms and
presenting new collections.
December 2015 saw the
long-awaited opening of
the gallery ‘Europe: 1600-
1815’, in which about 1,100
items can now be seen. Four
large rooms are decorated
in chronological sequence,
while other smaller ones
house recreations of three
different historical interiors:
a Parisian cabinet from
the 16th century, a French
bedroom from the 17th
century and an Italian mirror
room from the 18th century.
The exhibition includes
objects from various spheres
of the work and everyday
life of Europeans, such as
ceramics and glasswares,
paintings and sculptures,
books, textiles and
fashionable clothes. Many of
these copies were created by
the best craftsmen and artists
specifically for such famous
connoisseurs of art as Louis
XVI, Marie Antoinette and
Napoleon. These items
clearly demonstrate the
superiority of the French
craftsmen in the fashion
and design field of the
second half of the 17th
century, during an epoch
when France became the
major trendsetter both
throughout Europe and
beyond, unseating Italy from
the leading position. Visitors
will also be able to see how
exotic items brought to
the continent from Africa,
Asia and America, became
common objects in everyday
life.
There are also some
wonderful temporary exhibits
in the V&A. The exhibition
‘Bejewelled Treasures:
The Al Thani Collection’
runs until 10 April 2016.
Spectacular objects from a
private collection reveal the
traditions of Indian jewellery
craftsmanship and its impact
on world fashion.
The museum is open daily
from 10:00 to 17:45, 10:00 to
22:00 on Fridays
Admission to the V&A is free
Location: Cromwell Road,
London SW7 2RL
Tel.: +44 (0)20 7942 2000
MUSEUM EXHIBITION. 17TH AND 18TH CENTURY
CLOTHING
115
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116
FASHION CITYGUIDE
BREAKFAST
Looking for a breakfast spot where you
can find incredibly delicious desserts and
buy authentic Milanese chocolate as a gift
for your loved ones? Head to Zàini cafe
at Corso Como and do both! A charming
interior and a unique tasting experience
are guaranteed.
Via de Cristoforis, 5
Tel: 02 694914449
www.zainimilano.com
LUNCH
Milan is the most modern city in Italy, so it’s
no wonder the first raw vegan restaurant in
the country was opened here, next to the
Porta Venezia gardens. Mantra Raw Vegan can
easily satisfy even the fussiest vegan’s tastes,
but it’s not only vegans who’ll love it here. It’s
also worth coming to try the unusual mix of fla-
vours and refined yet simple dishes, prepared
with fresh vegetables, fruits and herbs.
Via Panfilo Castaldi, 21
Tel: 02 89058575
www.mantrarawvegan.com
BEAUTY SALON
If you urgently need beauty salon services including hair cutting and styling or a manicure
in the centre of Milan, you will enjoy Brera 13.This brand is represented by two salons in the
city, one just a few steps away from the Duomo and the other in Brera district.
Via Cappellari, 3. Tel: 342 5654870
Via delle Erbe, 1. Tel: 02 861665
www.brera13milano.com
Milan
APERITIF
The famous Milanese tradition of sipping a
glass of wine and nibbling on a few snacks
has become an essential part of city life. If
you fancy experiencing this great Italian
tradition somewhere special we recom-
mend N\'Obmra de Vin in the Brera district.
The charming atmosphere of this venue
invites you to linger under the typical
tavern arches all evening, surrounded by
thousands of bottles of the best wine from
all over Italy.
Via San Marco, 2. Tel: 02 6599650
www.nombradevin.it
SPA
After a busy day of shows, presentations
and exhibitions, what could be better
than relaxing for an hour or two at a spa?
Especially if it is not any ordinary wellness
centre, but real hot springs! Terme di
Milano sheltered by the medieval walls in
the city centre is one of the best places for
refreshment and beauty in Lombardy.
Piazza Medaglie D\'Oro, 2
Tel: 02 55199367
www.termemilano.com
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117
MILAN FASHION WEEK
24th-29th February 2016
09|00 GRINKO CORSO COMO, 5
10|00 BLUGIRL VIA SAN BARNABA, 48
11|00 GENNY CORSO VENEZIA, 16
12|00 SIMONETTA RAVIZZA PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
14|30 GUCCI VIA VALTELLINA, 7
15|30 FAY VIA BRERA, 28
16|30 ALBERTA FERRETTI CORSO VENEZIA, 16
17|30 N°21 VIA COMPAGNONI, 12
18|30 FAUSTO PUGLISI VIA SENATO, 10
19|30 FRANCESCO SCOGNAMIGLIO CORSO VENEZIA, 16
20|30 ROBERTO CAVALLI VIA SAN PAOLO, 10
24TH FEBRUARY
WEDNESDAY
25TH FEBRUARY
THURSDAY
09|30 MAX MARA CORSO VENEZIA, 16
10|30 COSTUME NATIONAL PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
11|30 LUISA BECCARIA CORSO VENEZIA, 51
12|30 FENDI VIA SOLARI, 35
13|15 I\'M ISOLA MARRAS VIA BERGOGNONE, 26
14|00 ANTEPRIMA VIA SENATO, 10
15|00 EMILIO PUCCI VIA OROBIA, 15
16|00 LES COPAINS CORSO VENEZIA, 16
17|00 CRISTIANO BURANI PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
18|00 PRADA VIA FOGAZZARO, 36
18|00 DANIELA GREGIS PIAZZA SANT\' AMBROGIO, 23/A
19|00 BYBLOS MILANO VIA SENATO, 10
20|00 MOSCHINO VIA SAN LUCA, 3
26TH
09|30 DIESEL BLACK GOLD VIA VALTELLINA, 7
10|30 EMPORIO ARMANI * VIA BERGOGNONE, 59
11|30 UMA WANG PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
12|30 SPORTMAX VIA SAN GREGORIO, 29
14|00 ETRO VIA PIRANESI, 14
15|00 ICEBERG VIA PIRANESI, 10
16|00 MARCO DE VINCENZO VIA TURATI, 34
17|00 TOD\'S VIA PALESTRO, 14
18|00 ELISABETTA FRANCHI VIA SAN LUCA, 3
19|00 AIGNER PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
20|00 VERSACE VIALE EGINARDO - GATE 2
20|30 ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
FEBRUARY
FRIDAY
09|30 BOTTEGA VENETA VIA PRIV. ERCOLE MARELLI, 6
10|30 UJOH VIA BERGOGNONE, 59
11|30 ANTONIO MARRAS VIA COMPAGNONI, 12
12|30 BLUMARINE CORSO VENEZIA, 16
13|15 LEITMOTIV PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
14|00 ERMANNO SCERVINO VIA SAN LUCA, 3
15|00 JIL SANDER * VIA LUCA BELTRAMI, 5
16|00 CIVIDINI VIA SENATO, 10
17|00 GABRIELE COLANGELO VIA BRERA, 28
18|00 AQUILANO.RIMONDI PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
19|00 PHILOSOPHY DI L. SERAFINI VIA FESTA DEL PERDONO, 7
20|00 PORTS 1961 VIA MACEDONIO MELLONI, 9
21|00 PHILIPP PLEIN PIAZZA CARLO MAGNO - GATE 17
27TH FEBRUARY
SATURDAY
28ST FEBRUARY
SUNDAY
09|30 ALBERTO ZAMBELLI PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
10|30 MARNI * VIALE UMBRIA, 42
11|15 RICHMOND VIA SENATO, 10
12|00 LAURA BIAGIOTTI VIA RIVOLI, 6
12|45 STELLA JEAN PIAZZA DUOMO - SCALONE ARENGARIO
15|00 MSGM VIA COMPAGNONI, 12
16|00 SALVATORE FERRAGAMO PIAZZA AFFARI, 6
17|00 TRUSSARDI CORSO VENEZIA, 16
18|00 AU JOUR LE JOUR PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
19|00 MISSONI VIA PRIV. G. VENTURA, 14
20|00 DAMIR DOMA VIA PRIV. G. VENTURA, 15
29ND
09|30 DSQUARED2 VIA SAN LUCA, 3
10|30 GIORGIO ARMANI * VIA BERGOGNONE, 59
11|30 ANGELO MARANI VIA FORCELLA, 6
12|30 ARTHUR ARBESSER VIA VOGHERA, 8
13|30 MILA SCHÖN VIA BERGOGNONE, 26
14|30 VIVETTA PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
15|30 SAN ANDRES MILANO PIAZZA DUOMO - ARENGARIO
1630 LUCIO VANOTTI PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
17|30 PICCIONE.PICCIONE PIAZZA LINA BO BARDI, 1
18|30 CLOSING EVENT CNMI: A SUSTAINABLE
DRINK FOR A SUSTAINABLE FASHION
FEBRUARY
MONDAY
* EMPORIO ARMANI
H.10,30 - 1A SFILATA
H.11,30 - 2A SFILATA
* MARNI
H.09,30 - 1A SFILATA
H.10,30 - 2A SFILATA
* JIL SANDER
H.15,00 - 1A SFILATA
H.16,00 - 2A SFILATA
* GIORGIO ARMANI
H.10,30 - 1A SFILATA
H.11,30 - 2A SFILATA
MSGM PRE-FALL 2016
WWW.MILANOMODADONNA.IT
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118
FASHION CITYGUIDE
BREAKFAST
Is there a better place to enjoy exceptional
sweets for breakfast than Ladurée? This
world famous luxury confectionery brand,
established in 1862, is the capital’s premier
manufacturer of extremely popular macarons.
There are a few of these cafes in Paris, our
favourite of which is at the Champs-Elysees.
75, Avenue des Champs Elysées
Tel: 01 4075 0875
www.laduree.com
LUNCH
L’Abeille restaurant, located in the 5-star
Shangri La hotel is perfect for a chic lunch
with important partners in a sophisticated
setting with a garden view. One of the best
Michelin-starred chefs in France will tantalise
your tastebuds, and when the meal is over
make sure to visit the hotel’s rooftop to enjoy a
breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower.
10, Avenue d\'Iéna
Tel: 01 5367 1990
www.shangri-la.com
HAIR SALON
If you require the services of the best hairdresser in Paris, David Mallett, it is
best to book in advance. His eponymous salon is visited by celebrities such as
Charlotte Gainsbourg and Carla Bruni, and also offers manicures
and pedicures.
14 Rue Notre Dame des Victoires
Tel: 01 4020 0023
www.david-mallett.com
Paris
DINNER AND SPA
If good food is not enough for you and
you want to try something extraordinary,
welcome to dinner in total darkness at
Dans le Noir. Here a new experience is
guaranteed! This popular dinner format
can now be followed by some time in the
spa.
Restaurant: 51 Rue Quincampoix
Tel: 01 4277 9804
SPA: 65 rue Montmartre
Tel: 01 8395 4677
www.paris.danslenoir.com
BAR
The Experimental Cocktail Club can be
called Paris’s best-kept secret. There are
no signs, just a small nameplate. However,
the bar is very popular and almost always
full. Delicious cocktails, a friendly atmos-
phere and excellent music make it a great
place to spend your evening.
37, Rue Saint Sauveur
Tel: 01 4508 8809
www.facebook.com/eccparis
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PARIS FASHION WEEK
1th-9th March 2016
10|00 LUCIEN
PELLAT FINET
11|00 LISELORE
FROWIJN
12|00 AALTO
13|00 NEHERA
14|00 EACH X OTHER
15|00 LÉA PECKRE
16|00 ANNE SOFIE
MADSEN
17|00 ANREALAGE
18|00 ANTHONY
VACCARELLO
19|00 JACQUEMUS
20|00 KOCHÉ
21|00 Y/PROJECT
1TH
MARCH
TUESDAY
10|00 COURRÈGES
11|00 MAISON
MARGIELA
12|00 EN ATTENTE / TBC
13|00 YANG LI
14|00 CÉDRIC CHARLIER
15|00 DRIES VAN NOTEN
16|00 GUY LAROCHE
17|00 ROCHAS
18|00 AGANOVICH
19|00 LEMAIRE
20|00 VIONNET
2TH
MARCH
WEDNESDAY
10|00 CHLOÉ
11|00 CARVEN
12|00 MANISH ARORA
13|00 ANN DEMEULEMEESTER
14|00 PACO RABANNE
15|00 BALMAIN
16|00 ALEXIS MABILLE
17|00 BARBARA BUI
18|00 RICK OWENS
19|00 PASCAL MILLET
20|00 LANVIN
20|00 VETEMENTS
3TH
MARCH
THURSDAY
09|30 LOEWE
11|00 CHALAYAN
12|00 ISSEY MIYAKE
13|00 JULIEN DAVID
14|30 CHRISTIAN DIOR
15|30 ISABEL MARANT
16|30 UNDERCOVER
17|30 ANDREW GN
18|30 LUTZ HUELLE
19|30 EMANUEL UNGARO
20|30 YOHJI YAMAMOTO
4TH
MARCH
FRIDAY
09|30 JUNYA
WATANABE
10|30 HAIDER
ACKERMANN
11|30 VÉRONIQUE LEROY
12|30 MUGLER
14|00 ACNE STUDIOS
15|00 ELIE SAAB
16|00 VIVIENNE
WESTWOOD
17|00 COMME DES GARÇONS
18|00 RAHUL MISHRA
19|30 NINA RICCI
20|30 OLYMPIA LE TAN
5TH
MARCH
SATURDAY
10|00 VALENTIN YUDASHKIN
11|30 BALENCIAGA
13|00 CÉLINE
14|00 MAISON RABIH KAYROUZ
15|00 JOHN GALLIANO
16|00 ROLAND MOURET
17|00 MASHA MA
18|00 AKRIS
6TH
MARCH
SUNDAY
10|00 STELLA MCCARTNEY
11|00 SACAI
12|00 LEONARD PARIS
13|30 GIAMBATTISTA VALLI
14|30 VÉRONIQUE BRANQUINHO
15|30 MARTIN GRANT
16|30 HERMÈS
18|00 SONIA RYKIEL
19|00 ESTEBAN CORTAZAR
20|00 SAINT LAURENT
7TH
MARCH
MONDAY
10|30 CHANEL
11|30 AGNÈS B.
12|30 VANESSA SEWARD
13|30 ELLERY
14|30 VALENTINO
15|30 JUNKO SHIMADA
16|30 IRIS VAN HERPEN
17|30 SHIATZY CHEN
18|30 PAUL & JOE
19|30 KENZO
20|30 OFF/WHITE
8TH
MARCH
TUESDAY
10|00 LOUIS VUITTON
11|00 PASKAL
12|00 MONCLER GAMME ROUGE
13|00 YDE
1400 MIU MIU
15|30 EN ATTENTE / TBC
16|30 MOON YOUNG HEE
17|30 EN ATTENTE / TBC
9TH
MARCH
WEDNESDAY
LANVIN PRE-FALL 2016
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Text: Alisa Nesterova
121
FASHION CITYGUIDE
Moscow
BEAUTY SALON
You can get your makeup and a stylish
hairstyle done in Njoy salon located in
the city centre near Pushkinskaya met-
ro station, where you will enjoy a cosy
atmosphere and a team of high-level
professionals.
Bogoslovskiy Lane, 16/6
Tel: +7 915 4990959
www.njoy-style.ru
NIGHTCLUB
Moscow never sleeps! The capital of Russia has a thriving nightlife, so it is worth visiting at least one nightclub.We rec-
ommend two popular venues in the city centre. Denis Simachev Shop & Bar is a small and very fashionable venue with
consistently good crowd, music, and atmosphere, but dress your best as there’s a strict door policy. If you want to relax
and enjoy views of the city at night, try the Time Out Bar on the top floor of the Beijing hotel.
Denis Simachev Shop&Bar: Stoleshnikov Lane, 12, bld. 2.Tel: +7 495 6298085
www.facebook.com/dsbar
Time Out Bar: Bolshaya Sadovaya, 5/1.Tel: +7 495 2290180
www.bartimeout.ru
BREAKFAST
Start the day the Russian way with porridge,
pancakes or scrambled eggs and you’ll get
off on the right foot! This is particularly true if
you go to Café Pushkin in the heart of the city,
a place where the cuisine and decor harmoni-
ously combine in the classical style of Imperial
Russia.This spot is loved by both Muscovites
and foreigners.
Tverskoy Boulevard, 26-А
Tel: +7 495 7390033
www.cafe-pushkin.ru
LUNCH
These days Russian cuisine in Moscow is more
popular than ever. One of the new places that
has quickly won the affection of Muscovites is
the Voronezh restaurant located across from
the Cathedral of Christ the Saviour.This facility
occupies an elegant four-storey house from
the late eighteenth century with a different
menu offered on each floor.
Prechistenka, 4
Tel: +7 495 6950641
www.voronej.com
DINNER
White Rabbit, located under a glass dome
on the 16th floor of Smolensky Passage, is a
beautiful and elegant restaurant where the
interior is the perfect introduction to the su-
perior cuisine. Here Russian dishes reach the
height of renowned delicacies as new recipes
are created by Vladimir Mukhin, one of the
most famous chefs in Russia.
Smolenskaya Square, 3, 16th floor
Tel: +7 495 6633999
www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru
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