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ALLA VERBER S p r i n g /S u m m e r 2 017: d e s i g n e r s , t r e n d s , s t r a t e g i e s , f a s h i o n s h o w s S / S 2 0 1 7

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B U Y E R 4 CONTENTS 22 16 ALLA VERBER Russia’s leading buyer on her business approach 22 KRISTEN STEWART The muse of Karl Lagerfeld and Woody Allen DESIGNERS 28 CONSUELO CASTIGLIONI Marni’s designer on the brand\'s development strategy 32 RESORT 2017: WOMEN’S TRENDS New volumes, many layers 34 ISABEL BENENATO The creator of Isabel Benenato on the secret to her success 38 ACCESSORY DESIGNERS Top accessory brands: a complete overview 54 RESORT 2017: ACCESSORIES TRENDS Your guide to next spring’s bags and accessories 58 GIUSEPPE DI MORABITO Young talent conquers Italy 60 SS17 MENSWEAR TRENDS Denim, dressing gowns and vivid colours rule the catwalks 64 UP-AND-COMING FASHION TALENTS Young stars on the rise 66 MADE IN EASTERN EUROPE Russian and Ukrainian designers making it big on the global fashion market 72 SS17 TRENDS CHECKLIST Noteworthy developments for buyers STRATEGIES 76 TOKYO FASHION WEEK Japan’s trends and fashion industry 78 ECO FASHION How to become responsible producers and consumers 84 ROSY BIFFI Legendary Biffi founder shares her thoughts on retail 86 ONLINE-PLATFORM FOR BUYERS New tools to find designers and place orders online

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B U Y E R 6 76 88 MAKE YOUR SHOPPING SPACE SMARTER How to increase sales by dividing a boutique into zones 92 RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION New steps to support Russian buyers 94 L’INDE LE PALAIS The renowned Italian boutique’s web strategy 96 ONLINE SALES Retailers’ advice on how to integrate internet resources 100 LEFORM The story of Moscow’s most famous concept store as told by its founder EVENTS 106 MEN’S FASHION WEEKS European buyers on menswear shows 110 FASHION WEEKS DATES Womenswear SS17 shows around the world 112 MONACO FASHION WEEK Why you should put Monaco on your travel list 114 TRADE SHOWS The calendar of professional appointments for the season 118 TRANOI Discover new talents at this hot exhibition 120 KOPENHAGEN FUR New projects from the famous exhibition 124 PITTI UOMO The lowdown on Italy’s major menswear event 126 CAPSULE Menswear trends fresh from Paris and New York 128 TAOMODA The Sicilian fashion festival where industry leaders meet 130 WHO’S ON NEXT? Vogue Italia and AltaRoma announce the winners 132 TIME AWARD Winners of Milan young talents contest CONTENTS

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B U Y E R 8 Editor in chief Marina Bugranova Direttore responsabile Michela Zio Executive editor Galia Milovzorova Fashion editor Anastasia Khvatova Art director Lior Susana Graphic designer Daria Elagina Copy editors Jen Rouse Maya Svetlova Translators Natalya Rigvava Olga Watts Anastasia Statueva Andrey Shumilov Contributors Alisa Nesterova Marta Topolskaya Tatiana Rosenstein Natalia Melyukh Denis Esakov Marat Mukhonkin CONTACTS For advertising enquiries Commercial director Asya Tatevosyan asya@buyer.world For editorial and other enquiries Administrative director Maria Sakharchuk maria@buyer.world Publishing house Alate Media s.r.l. P.Iva 08307120967 Via Mauro Macchi, 65, 20124 Milan www.buyer.world ALLA VERBER S p r i n g /S u m m e r 2 017: d e s i g n e r s , t r e n d s , s t r a t e g i e s , f a s h i o n s h o w s B u y e r • S /S 2 017 S / S 2 0 1 7 BUYER S/S 2017 № 2 September 2016 Alla Verber Photo: Marat Mukhonkin Registration № 249, 19.07.13, tribunal of Milan Print Radin print d.o.o. Gospodarska 9, HR 10431 Sveta Nadelja

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B U Y E R 10 M.Bugranova The spring/summer 2017 season marks a more complex fashion industry than ever before, with the combination of men’s and women’s shows, the emergence of new creative directors and market leaders and an explosion in fresh talent. Some of the brands anticipate their sales campaigns for buyers, while others choose to orientate towards end consumers. The fash- ion industry is currently in a state of flux, where strict rules have become a thing of the past. In their place unconventional approaches and original ideas are the keys to success. A buyer needs to be aware of all the processes like never before, in order to react to innovations in time and build their business in a smart and flexible way. But how can you get to grips with such a large amount of information, or find your way among all the variety the market has to offer? Which designers should you invest in? How can you market avant-garde brands? Which trends should you focus on for next season? How can you combine using internet resources in the most efficient way with what goes on in the physical shop? We talked about these and other questions with leading buyers and experts from different countries. In this issue Alla Verber (Mercury), Rosy Biffi (Biffi), Akiko Shinoda (Japan Fashion Week), Consuelo Castiglioni (Marni) and other specialists share the experience that has brought them worldwide success. For this edition we have made a selection of promising young designers yet to be discovered, many of which have participated in prestigious fash- ion contests. With a focus on emerging markets, we unveil the most inter- esting brands from Eastern Europe as well as including fashion weeks from less obvious destinations on our calendar. An overview of the influence of the industry on our planet will offer an insight into working in fashion with awareness, and show some ways we can help the fleeting fashion process- es have a positive impact in the long term on the world we live in. TIME FOR ORIGINAL IDEAS Marina Bugranova Buyer and editor in chief

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B U Y E R 12 The designers of the Fay and Aq- uilano.Rimondi brands, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi, have announced the launch of a new brand – Ar.rt. In contrast to its ‘older brother’, Ar.rt will be mainly marketed in Asia and America. The designers say they are not focusing on Europe and Italy, but that their goal is to conquer new markets. It should be noted that the prices of the new brand will be about 30% lower than those of Aquilano. Rimondi. The debut collection has already been presented to buyers and has been positively received by customers. Comeback of the year The Belgian designer Olivier Theyskens, favourite of fashion critics and discerning fashionistas, is returning to big fashion. The former designer for Rochas and Nina Ricci is back in business after a few years of taking a back seat. His debut will take place this fall as part of Paris Fashion Week. According to the designer, he is working on the collection in his Paris studio, but he will have the items sewn in It- aly. ‘It’s a magical, extremely artistic approach,‘ Theyskens told BoF in an exclusive interview. FASHION NEWS Fay designers\' new brand The designer Prabal Gurung has been wanting to try his hand at creating clothes for women with curves for a long time. So it comes as no surprise that his label, Prabal Gurung, and American department store chain Lane Bryant are launching a collab- oration which will result in two plus-size collections for women.The first arrivals of ‘Prabal Gurung Exclusively for Lane Bryant’ clothing are expected next March simulta- neously at 180 Lane Bryant stores and also online at www.lanebryant.com.This is the fifth designer collaboration in the history of Lane Bryant. Plus size by Prabal Gurung TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices

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B U Y E R 14 The launch of Stella McCartney Men Michael Kors\'s flagship boutique in London In May, the American designer Michael Kors opened his flagship store, which is the largest in Europe. Located on Regent Street, one of the most glamor- ous streets in London, the three-level store contains every collection of the house, including the Michael Kors Collection basic line for women and men, Michael Kors clothing and ac- cessories, as well as watches, jewellery, and eyewear. For the convenience of customers, each floor is dedicated to a particular line of the house: the first floor has clothes for men, the second floor offers accessories, and the third floor houses the women\'s collection. FASHION NEWS The British designer Stella McCartney has announced the launch of a men\'s line. Her first men\'s collection for spring/summer 2017 will be presented in Paris in November together with the women\'s cruise line, and will be available in stores as early as December. Accord- ing to Stella McCartney, she has been planning to try her hand at creating men\'s clothes for a long time, and she is pleased that men will now be able to choose from a Stella McCa- rtney range, which conforms to the ecological and ethical standards of the contemporary world. The expansion of Jeckerson The sports footwear brand Jeckerson, founded in Bologna in 1995, is planning to move into the luxury segment of the market. The spring/summer 2017 season will see the presentation of the first premium foot- wear collection made entirely in Italy from the finest materials. Classic shoes, loafers, moccasins, and sports shoes, the range of the updated Jeckerson brand will have everything the contemporary man needs in the big city.The collection will be available both in the brand\'s stores and at jeckerson.com.

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B U Y E R 16 New designer at Dior Christian Dior, the quintessen- tial French fashion house, has named its new designer. For the first time ever, this role has been given to a woman — Italian designer Maria Grazia Chiuri, who for many years created collections for Valentino together with Pierpaolo Piccioli, and was in charge of the whole re-brand- ing of that label.The designer has already started work familiar- ising herself with the production facilities of the cult house.The fashion world will be able to see the first fruits of her labours on September 30 during Paris Fashion Week, and next January she will present a haute couture collection marking the 70th anniversary of Christian Dior. Golden Goose conquers Britain The Italian premium footwear brand Gold- en Goose is conquering old Blighty. The brand opened its first store in Dover Street, which is in the upmarket London district of Mayfair. The boutique in the British capital is yet another store in a series of signifi- cant openings for the brand, which has recently acquired sales outlets in New York, Seoul, Tokyo, Milan, and Paris. According to the manager of Golden Goose, Roberta Benaglia, the brand has doubled its sales in the UK over the last three years, so the opening of its flagship boutique here was only a matter of time. Fashion hotspot in London This summer, several brands – Spanish label Delpozo, the Italian brand Red Valentino, and the Middle Eastern concept store Boutique 1, which presents Galvan, Alexander Wang, Proenza Schouler, and Adam Lippes – will all open their flagship boutiques at 131 Sloane Street. For each of these brands, it will be their first store in the British capital. Apart from the fashion labels, the spacious building will house several small boutiques selling wines and pastries, putting the address firmly on the London fashion map. Winners of the ANDAM contest This prestigious designer contest, founded in 1989, looks for excep- tional talents on the style stage of the French fashion capital. This year\'s discovery is Johanna Senyk\'s brand – Wanda Nylon. As is tradition, the designer was awarded €250,000 to develop the brand, Swarovski crys- tals worth €10,000 to use in future collections, and two years of con- sultations with Chloé CEO Geoffroy De La Bourdonnaye. The founder of the Atlein brand, Antonin Tron, and Emmanuel Tomasini from Tomasini Paris were the other winners of the contest. FASHION NEWS

B U Y E R 17 17 Weddings in the Viktor & Rolf style Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren, the distinguished Dutch designer duo, are planning to launch a bridal line. The first collection, created in partner- ship with well-known producer of wedding dresses Justin Alexander, will be presented at New York Bridal Week in October. It should be noted that it is not the first ‘wedding’ experience offered by the Dutch designers. In 2006, outfits for this event served as the basis of their collaboration with the Swedish brand H&M, and in 2013 the designers presented their own capsule collection of wedding dresses. Gvasalia debuts men\'s line Demna Gvasalia, founder of the Vetements brand and designer at Balenciaga, presented the first men\'s line for the fashion house during the fashion week recently held in Paris. Baseball caps, Ikea-esque shopping bags, and funky high white boots offering funhouse body distortions com- bined with everyday outfits were all presented at the fashion show. Russian buyers could not fail to notice that the designer gave a nod in their direction – coats with shoulder pads and scarves arranged on the lapels were a direct reminder of the turbulent 1990s. The launch of Vogue Arabia Condé Nast has announced the launch of a new edition of the cult fashion magazine. The online platform will be in- troduced in the autumn, and next spring will see a print version of the magazine, which will be the 22nd global edition of Vogue. The website is being developed simultaneously in two languages – English and Arabic. The Vogue Arabia office will be located in Dubai, and the area of distribution will cover the Persian Gulf states – Bahrain, Kuwait, Oman, Qatar, Saudi Arabia and the UAE, as well as Egypt, Morocco, and Libya. The chief editor of Vogue Arabia has already been announced, Princess Deena Abdulaziz Al-Saud for Saudi Arabia – the main style icon of the whole region. Fausto Puglisi\'s new location in Milan The Sicilian designer Fausto Puglisi has opened his first flagship store in Milan in Via della Spiga, next to the Dolce & Gabbana boutique, where his first solo collection was showcased in 2010.According to the designer, the interior of the boutique reflects both his Italian roots and modern trends. Mir- rored walls, marble mosaics with the sun at the entrance, blue corduroy fitting rooms, – everything reflects the striking and eclectic aesthetics of Fausto Puglisi. It should be noted that that the designer is planning to open his next store in America.

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B U Y E R 19 TEXT: Natalia Melyukh PHOTO: Marat Mukhonkin ALLA VERBER HAS ENJOYED LONGSTANDING SUCCESS AS VICE PRESIDENT OF MERCURY GROUP AND FASHION DIRECTOR OF RUSSIAN DEPARTMENT STORES TSUM AND DLT. SHE MET WITH BUYER TO SHARE HER THOUGHTS ON WHY LIFE IS NOT ALL ABOUT NUMBERS AND HOW THE FASHION INDUSTRY HAS CHANGED IN THE LAST QUARTER OF A CENTURY AT THE HELM Tell us about how you shape relationships with other members of the team and get your vision across to them. Mercury is a really large team. Sometimes, over ten buyers travel together to make purchases, each with their own vision and taste. So every team must have a leader who has the final say. In our team, that’s me. When purchasing, the first stage is to get to know the collection. We discuss every item, considering when customers might wear it, for what purpose, why, where, and whether we’ve seen anything similar in previous years. I spend a lot of time with my team and always listen to their opinions. The more information you have, the easier and more effectively the job gets done. Sometimes, our buyers only purchase from one brand and cannot fully see how to develop beyond that. As someone who has seen hundreds of shows, I help the buyer get to grips with the brand’s direction and suggest things to focus on. When purchasing, we often take boutique managers and the best salespeople along too. They have extensive experience, and they know which colours and styles customers prefer and which have fallen out of favour. This often gives us even more insight and helps us make the right choices. But sometimes salespeople have a hard time moving away from something they’ve been selling successfully, in order to anticipate the latest trends. Ultimately I take everyone’s opinions into account, but I have the final say. How can one influence your opinion? It’s not just my opinion, it’s the whole team\'s work. I always enjoy hearing everyone’s opinions. The more information I have, the easier it is to work. Of course sometimes I doubt if I have made the right decision, but experience shows that I usually get it right. If I’m purchasing, say, some Loro Piana, Alexander McQueen, Céline, or Dolce & Gabbana, which are brands exclusive to Mercury and require a huge budget, I need to work out which items will be the best bet. That’s easy for me. I can always identify a bestseller. The success of the whole team depends on the buyer’s correct choice. A good buyer plays for high stakes and is not afraid to gamble. However, they must live and breathe the fashion industry – I’ve been in it for 40 years – and know what items will make it to the till. What guides you most when placing orders, sales statistics or your intuition? This is the subject of continuous debate. Of course, you can\'t do without statistics. I regularly survey salespeople and find out which sizes, items or ranges are selling best. The numbers tell you a lot, and they are important when purchasing anything, from clothes to footwear to accessories. But a great buyer must possess two things: impeccable taste and strong intuition. The accuracy of their choices will be reflected in their sales statistics. Some shops are both fashionable and profitable, and some are neither because their buyers don\'t understand who their target audience is. Do you believe intuition can be developed? Any skill can be learned, like playing the violin or the piano, yet only one person in a thousand becomes a virtuoso. Speaking of industry-specific intuition, yes, I guess it can also be developed. When you do the same thing for over many years, you can hone your intuition. However, those who embark on this business must possess certain qualities at the outset, like good taste and a willingness to learn. The fashion industry is not only a complicated business but also a certain lifestyle. Without a doubt, there is a lot depending on our work. Sometimes, there are ten buyers in one showroom and each one buys differently. One of them knows what they want and what their customers want, while another feels at sea, always seeks advice and asks the salesperson about everything. Ultimately, this business is all about results: the company’s profits from each season.

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B U Y E R 21 A GOOD BUYER IS SOMEONE WHO IS OFTEN IN THE SALES AREA, PERSONALLY MAKES SALES, MOVES AROUND THE SHOPS, BRIEFS SALESPEO- PLE, INTRODUCES NEW ITEMS EACH SEASON, KEEPS MANAGERS ON THEIR TOES,AND CHECKS MERCHANDISING What is your attitude to pre-order services, which some shops are starting to provide? Fashion is not just about clothes, it’s the shopping experience that many just can\'t live without. Shopping is even used as a sort of therapy for stress sometimes. There are people who just love buying things, and buyers belong to them. Buy it today and it’ll be with you tomorrow, huh? The world has split in half: some like this instant gratification and some don’t. I personally don’t. But we’re trying it out anyway, beginning with Tom Ford. The whole world will be seeing the collection in September, and it will appear in all of the Mercury shops almost instantly. I think switching to pre-order will make the suppliers’ work easier: once they’ve produced it, they’re done and don’t have to bother anymore. Is there much difference between the collections sold on tsum.ru and in the physical store? TSUM’s website is being redesigned in September. We’ve been working on it for almost a year and a half now. The previous site was more like a catalogue of items and prices. Now we want the website to offer interesting content for people to read: what’s going on in the fashion world? Who is Valentino’s new creative designer? What brands we are bringing in this season? There will be lots of interesting and diverse information, so everybody will be able to find something of interest. The online shop will go through some changes as well. So far, the department store items have just been duplicated on the website. From now on, basic items (like the classic Gianvito Rossi court shoes, which are always in demand) will appear in the actual physical shop, while the online store will only sell ultra-fashionable, extraordinary, upmarket, limited- edition items that you can\'t buy anywhere else. Like Saint Laurent’s western boots: everyone is raving about them but they are expensive. We’re keeping them as an online exclusive for now. How much control do you exercise over the range of items in Natalia Goldenberg’s concept corner, Nata4@ tsum? Her budget is not restricted, so she just buys whatever she thinks best, both from unknown emerging designers and from world-famous labels, like Chloé, Marni, and Stella McCartney, as well as all the best, bold, and most fashionable things, right off the catwalks. How do you find emerging brands? I decided to focus on the luxury segment right at the start of my career in the fashion industry. That seemed easier to me, as there were some 10 – 15 active labels there, compared with thousands of new ones springing up every day in the middle and upper middle class segments. I witnessed the Dolce & Gabbana star come out. I remember the whispers in the audience, ‘Look at those Italian boys’ dresses! They fit like a glove!’ And it was true. An amazing fit, a feminine shape, a unique style, and what terrific shoes! Another example was when a new designer joined Gucci. He turned out to be Tom Ford, today universally recognised as a genius. Those are single cases, though. True, in the first 15 years of my career I did deal with the brands that rule

B U Y E R 22 the fashion world today, like Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Fendi, etc., but things are different now. In a department store, you have to bring out new names on a daily basis and offer the newest and most fashionable items in a variety of price categories. Of course, there is an awful lot of information flowing in to our office. I attend and watch all the shows at the world\'s fashion weeks, including those in Russia. If we see something we love we go straight to the showroom and snap it up. We support plenty of Russian designers. Which Russian designers are popular today? Can you mention any rising stars? The Russian fashion industry is just exploding at the moment: Victoria Andreyanova, Alexander Terekhov, Viva Vox, Vika Gazinskaya, and many others. We support a number of Russian designers. In footwear, Aleksander Siradekian is doing really well. I remember us placing a €10,000 order with him right away. He created lots of excellent PR for himself and is now in great demand. I attended the Tbilisi Fashion Week recently, where I fell in love with the work of Djaba Diassamidze, a guy from Georgia. He has lived in Paris and had a French grandmother. He makes really beautiful things, and really costly ones at that. His least expensive item costs €1,100, and so you have to consider if people will really buy something at that price from an unknown designer or whether they will go for something more proven. What other fashion weeks would you advise your colleagues to attend? If your boutique is small and the budget is too limited to travel around the world, the Milan and Paris ones are still the most important. Of course, having traversed almost every corner of the globe, I also love visiting other countries, seeing the world and finding something new. Apart from the Big Four, I\'ve attended fashion weeks in Korea, India, Hong Kong, Copenhagen, Miami, and Las Vegas. Spain is really promising for buyers right now, with its many factories, lots of quality on-trend items, and low costs. Every time I go there, I hope to discover something extraordinary. London has become less interesting for me lately. How do you prepare for the sales campaigns? What is your schedule like during a fashion week? I start my journey in New York. This city is like a breath of fresh air for me, as there are many light, easy-to-wear trends coming out there. It is normally very hot there in late September, so I usually save the new autumn items for Paris. For New York, I take tank tops, open-toed shoes and, just in case, flat slippers. I normally leave on 8 September for a week. First, there are the fashion shows, whose venues are, by the way, located pretty far apart, so it usually takes an hour to get from one to another. Then come the showrooms. Also, I carve out time between fashion shows to join my buyers. I have an exact schedule of where each of them is and who needs help. Of course, I also check their orders. Then I take the night flight from New York to London. The first show is always Burberry. Next I head off for Milan, arriving a bit tired, just like all the major players of the fashion world who occupy the first row. But cosy Milan and the dazzling Italian shows energise us again. The tour is topped off by Paris, where shows like Alexander McQueen, Céline, Valentino, Dior, Chanel make you realise the true scale and magnificence of the fashion world. How does your job work? When I’m planning to attend a fashion week, I make sure to prepare carefully and check all the documents, reports on purchases and sales, and the results of surveying the salespeople. When I am going to make orders, I try to elicit as much data as possible from our sales teams: why is this item not selling well? Is it something to do with people’s mentality? Often, there are two salespeople from the same corner shop saying different things. Then you examine the statistics. For example, there might only be three Oscar de la Renta size 14 items left, even though financial reports indicate that you shouldn\'t buy any size 14–16 items. A good buyer is someone who is often in the sales area, personally makes sales, moves around the shops, briefs salespeople, introduces new items each season, keeps managers on their toes, and checks merchandising. If sales slacken in a particular corner, the buyer will find out why. The job follows a routine, from new items to the high season to a sale. You bear half the responsibility. If there is no one in the sales area with the right skills, the buyer can’t make it work alone. The job requires cooperation, with the PR guys and the visual merchandiser also joining in. As for the internet, it\'s so much fun for today\'s young people. Click, click, looking for things you can buy. I also do it, I find something online to go and buy it the next day. Still, trying things on is a pleasure second to none. The very experience of shopping is important to me. How much have the requirements for buyers changed since you began? Today, even a buyer\'s assistant must have higher education in finance or law, so they can understand the computer system and be able to enter all the data. Twenty years ago, there was no such profession as ‘buyer’, only commodity experts, who graduated from the Institute of Trade. Today designers, fashion school

B U Y E R 23 graduates, and financiers can all become buyers. When you have to buy merchandise for five boutiques, and in different currencies at that, you had better not just know about fashion trends but also be able to calculate, analyse data, negotiate with the brand, track your purchases, place follow-up orders, answer letters, and approve the items to go on sale. What do you think things will be like 20 years down the road? Internet shopping is opening the doors to a whole different world. On the sofa at your home, in the airport, or in an office during your lunch break, you can browse through everything being sold in the world, choose your size, try all the colour options, and have a think. However, no one can persuade me that the shopping experience with its boundless emotional impact will ever be superseded. Actually, those in charge of finances think we can do without buyers at all, but I just can\'t imagine it that way. You need skilled professionals to calculate risks. Say, a designer made trousers last season, which sold well, but this season skirts are flying off the shelves instead. How can statistics help you here? Now, some buyers never purchase anything from designers from the ‘dark zone’ (Maison Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Yohji Yamamoto, Comme Des Garçons), while others just can\'t come to terms with feminine labels. In order to become a good specialist, you have to go through quite a bit of schooling, and then file reports on time, communicate back and forth with brands, and manage data on the computer. It\'s not just about buying things, as newbies think. What do you find to be the most pleasant part of your job? The real delight comes from fashion weeks. The shows, the dinners, the discussions, the meetings with your colleagues from abroad. An absolute treat for me every time. How do you think the audience of TSUM has changed in the 25 years you\'ve been at its helm? These 25 years have seen a new generation appear, who grew up in a different country, actually in a different world. The internet has made the world a smaller place. Everything has changed, from who and when should wear what, to the understanding of events and the dress code. I was there at the dawn of the Russian fashion and saw it all begin. My style was definitely influenced by Europe and the USA. When I joined Mercury in the 90s, we began to cultivate some taste in the people and gave them a chance to see things they hadn’t seen before. We\'ve done a lot of work over this last quarter of a century, and today\'s 25-year-olds have been brought up on our success. There are tons of great events taking place today that you can go to and dress beautifully: weddings and birthday parties, business events and school graduations, going to resorts and beaches. In the Soviet Union, we used to have the same uniform in schools, with a white pinafore for special occasions. Now, the people have changed, and so has everything around them. Everyone can buy something for their event, and it’s not about price. You can fork out for an important occasion and also get something simpler for an everyday look. What’s important is people have a choice now, and that\'s the way it should be.

B U Y E R INTERVIEW: Tatiana Rosenstein PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 24 CINEMATOGRAPHY QUEEN AND THE ULTIMATE MOVIE STAR KRISTEN STEWART CERTAINLY MADE AN IMPRESSION DURING THE 69TH CANNES FILM FESTIVAL. BUT NOW SHE ALSO HAS TO PROVE HERSELF AS THE NEW FACE OF CHANEL CHANEL MUSE

B U Y E R 25 After the five blockbusters based on Stephenie Meyer’s books ‘Twilight’, which grossed $ 3.3 billion worldwide, Kristin Stewart couldn’t leave her house without paparazzi following her. Everyone seemed to be obsessed with her relationship with her then-boyfriend and co-star Robert Pattinson. So she took 18 months off before coming back with a vengeance, all grown up and ready to move beyond Twilight. Now Karl Lagerfeld’s muse has just become the face of the Collection Eyes by Chanel, a makeup campaign designed to celebrate the ‘various facets of the contemporary Chanel women’, and one which Stewart undeniably represents. Her cooperation with the French brand began in 2013, when Stewart first presented the collection Métiers d’Art Paris- Dalls. Later on she starred in the short film ‘Once and for all’ playing an actress cast in the role of the young Coco Chanel, as well as participating in the advertising campaign Paris in Rome, which was dedicated to the collection of clothes and an updated version of the cult handbag 2.55. Kristen appeared in the role of a 20th century Italian movie star. Her director for both commercials was Karl Lagerfeld. Finally, this year, along with Mario Testino, she presented the Eyes Makeup Collection 2016, which according to the brand ‘reveals the depth of your look’. Kristen Stewart knows what she wants, and how to choose her roles. The darling of experimental indie titles, she has become a regular guest at famous film festivals such as Cannes, Venice, Toronto or Sundance. But Kristen is capable of being both a movie star and an actress. During the latest Cannes Film Festival Stewart starred in two films: Woody Allen’s opening night film ‘Cafe Society’ and Olivier Assayas’ ‘Personal Shopper’. Tell us about your recent projects? ‘Café Society’ is a very particular movie. It’s a 1930s romance about an on-the-make New Yorker, Bobby Dorfman, played by Jesse Eisenberg, who moves to Hollywood dreaming of a career in the movie business. He becomes a regular in high- society nightclubs, falling in love with Vonnie, my heroine, secretary of his uncle, who is a powerful movie agent. Vonnie is already involved with the married uncle, but she falls in love with Bobby. So she has to choose between the two men, between love and power, money and friendship. For me ‘Café Society’ is a reflection on how many love stories can happen in your life. Why did you decide to participate in the project? I wondered if I was ever going to fit into it into the role of such an old-fashioned girl. And it didn’t help that Woody asked me to audition for the part. I had to prove myself. Once we got going, it all just happened organically. During the shooting Woody never interrupted us, he just observed and sometimes offered comments like ‘Speed it up. I’m falling asleep!’ or ‘It felt fake’. I had great time working with him. The best relationship you can have with directors is when they show you something you didn’t know about yourself. Chanel created the jewellery and costumes for ‘Café Society’ and you’re an ambassador of the French brand. Can you tell us about this collaboration? Chanel participated on both projects – ‘Café Society’ and ‘Personal Shopper’. The head costume designer Suzy Benzinger, who has worked on many of Woody’s movies, scoured the Chanel archives and found this iconic evening dress in cream with a cloak of bleached ostrich feathers, perfect for my heroine’s special date with her lost love. There was also an entire wardrobe with shorts, trousers, shoes and the jewelry, inspired by ones Chanel designed at the time and that were so influential in the 1930s. How would you define your own style? I wouldn’t see myself as being the typical face of Chanel, with pearls and classic style. But I like stepping into a new role. Designer outfits allow me to create my characters. In everyday life I am not used to wearing brands but I prefer more casual style: trousers, caps and sneakers. I don’t care about glamour or success. I just want to act in movies I like. I don’t want to be a movie star and it was a big surprise that I became one, after ‘Twilight’ did so well. Nothing about being a celebrity is desirable for me. I am an actress. I seldom experiment with anything except acting. I hardly even use make-up. Every day I do the same thing – mascara and black eyeliner. You did experiment with your hair… I cut it short for Drake Doremus’ movie ‘Equals’ and I had it coloured just recently. Everyone loves long hair and as result:

B U Y E R ‘CAFÉ SOCIETY’ 2016 26 everybody looks the same. I pity people who don’t allow themselves to look how they really want to be, because of what other might think of them. It’s just awful. My new cut shows a new version of myself. In questions of style I don’t experiment much as I have my stylist for that – Tara Swennen – who I’ve known for 12 years. She is the one who decides what I wear for official events. How did you enjoy playing stylist yourself in Olivier Assayas’ ‘Personal Shopper’? ‘Personal Shopper’ is not about style. In this story fashion is just an outer shell for deeper issues and questions like, ‘Who are we in this strange world?’ The movie is deeply philosophical; it’s very different from what we work on in Hollywood. In Hollywood we all look the same, act the same, have the same values and we are used to a similar style. Ever since my childhood I had this idea that movies should entertain. But while working in Europe I finally understood: a film is not a product, it’s piece of art. How did Assayas approach you for your second collaboration? And if I am not mistaken you are the only American actress to have ever been awarded the prestigious ‘Cesar’ award: the French equivalent of an Oscar? Olivier told me he was writing a script and that he hoped I’d like it. When I got it I was scared, because I really like Olivier and it was hard to imagine calling him and telling that it was not for me. ‘CAFÉ SOCIETY’ 2016

B U Y E R ‘PERSONAL SHOPPER‘ 2016 27 Thankfully I was impressed by the story. It’s very different from ‘Sils Maria’, for which I won the Cesar. It evokes invisible worlds; it’s very sensual and mysterious and Olivier expresses very intimate emotions, which I hadn’t felt from him in our previous work. How different is this role from the one you played for Woody Allen? The role is very different indeed. So different that I even had to ask Olivier to wait until I finished ‘Café Society’ and my commercial for Chanel. For ‘Café Society’ I needed to be light, glamorous and easygoing. Olivier’s story is very dark. I play a young woman who is lonely, isolated and sad. It was exhausting to be in character all the time. Even in the scenes with other actors I felt the same, sad and lonely, like we were all ghosts. Luckily I was working in a warm atmosphere and surrounded by people I love. Otherwise I would have probably collapsed. Will we see you in blockbusters in the future? I love big movies that everyone sees. In the end I am a kid from the Valley. But it has to be the right team and the right time.

W H E R E B U Y E R S F I N D B R A N D S T H E Y L O V E I n n o v a t i v e o n l i n e p l a t f o r m m a k i n g i t e a s i e r f o r b u y e r s t o f i n d n e w l u x u r y b r a n d s a n d p l a c e o r d e r s c o n f i d e n t l y, a n y w h e r e i n t h e w o r l d . R e q u e s t y o u r f r e e b u y e r a c c e s s a t v i a d e l b u y e r . c o m

‘When I approac h the design of a collec tion I usually do it instinc tively, without thinking muc h about whether pieces could be easily sold or not. But being a female designer it is c rucial to me to c reate wearable pieces; we never do mere show looks.‘ C o n s u e l o C a s t i g l i o n i , M a r n i DESIGNERS P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f M a r n i p r e s s o f f i c e

B U Y E R MARNI DESIGNER CONSUELO CASTIGLIONI TALKS ABOUTTHE PERFECT BALANCE BETWEEN BUSINESS AND CREATIVITY,WORK AND FAMILY MARNI’S UNIVERSE PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 30

Recently you\'ve introduced a capsule collection that is out before even the Pre-Fall and Resort collections. What is the strategy behind this? Is it a response to the ever-faster rhythm of the fashion industry? We used to have other minor collections before, but the capsule collection was introduced for Fall 2015. Now that our business is growing and the fashion industry is moving faster and faster, we felt the need for a trans-seasonal collection, separate from both the catwalk show and the pre-collection. You have stores and resellers all over the world. Is there any difference in the way Marni is worn by women of different countries? The Marni aesthetic is about expressing your own personality. The typical Marni client interprets the clothes in her own way, mixing colours, prints and also pieces from different collections. The nationality of our clients does not matter at all as long as they have an affinity with our aesthetic and our vision. B U Y E R MARNI S/S 2017 CAPSULE MARNI S/S 2017 CAPSULE MARNI S/S 2017 CAPSULE 31

B U Y E R 32 How much do Marni collections respond to the needs of buyers and customers and how much are they your own creative vision? I always like my collections to strike the right balance between the two. When I approach the design of a collection I usually do it instinctively, without thinking much about whether pieces could be easily sold or not. But being a female designer it is crucial to me to create wearable pieces; we never do mere show looks. What is the strategy of the company for the immediate future? Have you got further digital expansion or new store openings planned? It is a continuous evolution! We started advertising, which is very exciting, then we launched our Eyewear line, opened a new flagship in Milan and one in San Francisco, the very first Marni Flower Café in Japan… they’re all part of our growth as ways to convey Marni’s multifaceted identity. Digital of course is MARNI F/W 2016 32

B U Y E R 33 extremely important, we were among the first, back in 2006, to start selling ready-to-wear online. We are also putting a lot of effort into developing our accessories, which are a key element for our business. The Marni Universe is strongly present in all of the brand elements – stores, advertising campaigns, events and initiatives. In which processes of the brand do you most enjoy taking part? I have to say that I love every part of it, because each activity is very different from the rest, even though it’s all part of the same ideal and aesthetic. Stores are enormously important because, along with clothes, they are a key part of the Marni experience, as well as advertising, events and special projects. They are all conceived as ways to convey our taste in art, experimentation, and the avant-garde. You work with your family. Do you feel the need to separate business from personal life? How do you manage your time and energy between work and life? Even though we all work together, we work in different areas of the company and each of us has their personal vision. I rarely see them at work, except maybe my daughter Carolina. She deals with special projects and helps me research artists to collaborate with while I dedicate myself to the collections, but we constantly share our thoughts and opinions with each other. Nevertheless, we still manage to leave work at the office and fully enjoy our free time together. MARNI S/S 2017 CAPSULE MARNI S/S 2017 CAPSULE 33

B U Y E R MS MILLEFEUILLE THE COMING SEASON CELEBRATES LAYERED OUTFITS, SO IT’S TIME TO GET TO GRIPS WITH PILING ON CLOTHES OF DIFFERENT LENGTHS The layering trend usually emerges in winter collections, when the weather makes you want to keep warm and wrap up in plenty of clothes. But the coming spring you won’t need combinations like jumpers over shirts or coats over jackets; keeping cosy is for a colder season. Right now it’s all about experimenting with your wardrobe. The spring 2017 staple look is a short jacket, a vest or a cape thrown over an elongated top or a shirt. Reverse layering means that a longer piece of clothing peeks out from under a shorter top layer, and stylists, designers and fashionistas have been going wild for the trend: Helmut Lang and 3.1 Phillip Lim make it minimalistic, Rag & Bone gives it a preppy feel, while Alexander McQueen and Louis Vuitton go baroque. The dress/skirt-over-trousers combination also makes a comeback. It is given a rebellious flavour by MSGM’s Massimo Giorgetti, while Christian Dior makes it Christian Dior Louis Vuitton DKNY Camilla&Marc Alexander McQueen TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 34

B U Y E R look sophisticated and feminine. Or you can take your cue from MM6 and wear one skirt on top of the other. The ’90s signature combo of a turtleneck under a slip dress is here to stay: as DKNY and Emilio Pucci prove, it will carry well into next summer. Layering up gives you a deliberately laid-back look.When pulled off masterfully, it will make you look as if you have simply put on the first things you found in your closet. But don’t be mistaken: any winning combination is always carefully thought out. BCBG Helmut Lang Givenchy Emilio Pucci Maison Margiela 1) White is a fail-safe colour for those who are just trying out the trend.A long white shirt is a good starting point to experiment with layering. 2) Pair a tight-fitting short jacket with a Victorian blouse for a great look. 3) To make the layering look your own, go for a monotone trouser suit and wear your shirt untucked. 4) Use contrasting colours — and if in doubt, remember that the most striking outfits from the Christian Dior show were executed in colour-blocking. 5) But say no to showy accessories. Summer is the minimalism season, so save scarves, hats and gloves for winter. Style tips Camilla&Marc 35

B U Y E R 36 WHEN NAPLES NATIVE ISABEL BENENATO LAUNCHED HER FIRST COLLECTION IN 2008 IN MILAN, SHE IMMEDIATELY CAUGHTTHE EYE OF BUYERS AT HOME AND ABROAD.WE ASKED THE FOUNDER AND DESIGNER OF THE EPONYMOUS BRAND ABOUT ITS MISSION, HER SENSE OF CONNECTION TO NATURE AND THE DISTINGUISHING FEATURES OF HER COLLECTIONS THE WORLD NEEDS MORE BEAUTY

B U Y E R 37 What’s the story behind your brand? The story behind Isabel Benenato is one of a person who was desperate to make her childhood dream come true! Simple as that. What are the signature features of your clothes? There’s plenty. My knitwear has a unique character that comes from my constant exploration and experimen- tation. I believe that everything around us can be re- interpreted into art and hence into fashion. Our knits can contain the possibility of a forest or the dunes of a faraway beach. Even the way we sew the parts of clothes together has our own particular stamp on it. I hope that people feel the soul behind our clothes and appreciate our taste for the most beautiful fabrics, as well as our thoughtful approach to sizes and volumes. What makes your brand different? How did Isabel Benenato become an international success? My brand is a mission to which I give myself over every day. I believe that people need more beauty, es- pecially in these hard times we’re living through. The beauty I’m talking about is the beauty of art and urban architecture. I want my works to be my contribution, however small, to making everybody happier. In Italy history and the beauty of nature are everywhere you go, and this sense of encompassing beauty is good for the soul. I want to render into fashion the feeling I get walking inthrough the woods or strolling the streets of my city. We feel more serene when what we wear makes us feel good. What inspires you? Everything around me inspires me, but first and foremost it’s my beautiful family. I am also very lucky because I happen to live close to nature, which is an infinite source of inspiration. Nature can fill you with an abundance of energy. Just open your heart to it, and inspiration will come your way. The creative force is within us, we just need to learn to use it. Tell us about the upcoming shows and your 2017 collection. Our 2017 mens and womenswear collections are tak- ing a bold new direction! We’re introducing new vol- umes, handmade brushstrokes, hand-sewn elements and exquisite detailed embroidery, also done by hand. T H E N E W I S A B E L B E N E N A T O C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M

B U Y E R Joseph Marc Jacobs Fendi Delpozo SIZE AND OVERSIZE SIZE DOES MATTER.THIS COMING SPRING WILL HELP US FORGETALLABOUT OUR PROBLEM AREAS,WITH THE HELP OF EXAGGERATED WIDE SWEATERS, SHIRTS, DRESSES,AND TROUSERS As the designers say, the bigger the better. It’s been a while since we last witnessed oversize shapes being so widely celebrated.There are cocoon coats, swing shirts, sweaters to fit your older brother, and culotte trousers, all worn together or combined with a more fitted garment for balance. The brands have taken an experimental approach, and instead of pieces fitting closely like a second skin, offered up pieces that conceal rather than reveal.These bold choices are not easy to wear, but this just makes for more excitement.This season bids farewell to the rule of choosing between an oversize top or bottom. Quite the contrary, experimenting with enlarged proportions for the whole body is now welcomed. This season’s number one must-have is cropped wide-leg trousers of heavy fabric.The material makes for voluminous legs, with the trousers resembling a long skirt. Carolina Herrera recommends teaming these with a New Look flounced jacket for an evening image. Fendi is in a more relaxed mood, with culotte trousers sitting alongside romantic open-shoulder blouses.The Jil Miu Miu TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 38

B U Y E R Sacai DKNY Hermès Adam Lippes Aquilano.Rimondi Sander and Joseph collections feature girls resembling boys from the golden age of movies, as they wear sand-coloured trousers with turn-ups to match the trousers and oversize sweaters, completely blurring gender differences. In fact, there is an incredible range of choice of wide trousers and their combinations in collections: Sacai suggests wearing culotte jeans with sporty windcheaters; Aquilano.Rimondi\'s denim trousers look great with loose white shirts; Miu Miu offers cropped trousers with similar tops, reminiscent of kids’ pyjamas.This means that every woman can find a version to suit her, whatever her age or occupation. This spring also sees a huge emphasis on oversize coats, windcheaters, and trench coats.These may be short and young at heart, like those from Alexander McQueen and Calvin Klein; have a business look, like in Jason Wu’s collection for Boss Woman; or be unisex, like those from MM6. Sweaters tend to be wide, too. Marc Jacobs, Ports 1961, and Pringle of Scotland all recommend that girls choose knitted models five to six sizes larger than needed.Adventurous fashion enthusiasts may also bring the oversize trend to evening outfits as well.The MM6 collection offers minimalistic sack dresses, while Peter Pilotto has some bell-shaped skirts. 1) Try combining two trends in one by wearing a lingerie-style dress together with wide trousers, like in the DKNY collection. 2) Keep things simple with oversize pieces of single-tone fabrics.An exception to this are holiday items, which can be both wide and multicoloured. 3) For the evening, consider choosing wide trousers.This style trick will make you stand out from the multitude in dresses. 4) So you don’t look like an overgrown teenager wearing hand-me-downs, try trousers and culottes alongside tops with an accentuated waist, as recommended by Delpozo, Carolina Herrera and Adam Lippes. Style tips Jil Sander 39

B U Y E R ATTENTION TO DETAIL WE HAVE SELECTED SOME INTERESTING ACCESSORIES BRANDS FROM THE US AND EUROPE, OFFERING THE HIGHEST QUALITY AND MOST SOPHISTICATED DESIGN. DESIGNERS DISCUSS THEIR VISION, SOURCES OF INSPIRATION AND KEY PIECES NOT TO MISS FROM THEIR COLLECTIONS EMMALINE KUO RANZMAN The look My collection epitomises innovation and creativity. From the start I have focused on staying true to the pursuit of a style that is both bold and daring, modern yet classic. Inspiration My inspiration comes from my travels around the world, whether it be through architecture, textural contrasts or other cultures. It is my love for exploration and appreciation of diversity that have shaped who I am as an individual and constantly inspire me. Key pieces The brand features many important key items, but the most dazzling and creative are the evening bag and clutch collection. They are a staple on many of the world’s top red carpets and fashion runways in the world and are artworks in themselves. Emm Kuo 40

B U Y E R Signatures I tend to use a lot of natural and raw materials in my collections, like wood, metal, brass, mother of pearl, exotic fur and skins. For shapes I draw inspiration from architecture around me as well as different landscapes I have travelled through and explored. The client Our customer is someone who appreciates design and has a unique sense of style. Emm Kuo collection lets a person like this express their individuality. Style icons The personalities that embody our designs include artists, musicians, innovators and fashion icons. Highlights There have been many memorable moments in our brand’s history, but some of the biggest highlights were being picked up by Intermix during our first season as a new designer. Having our bags worn by amazing style innovators during NYFW and seeing many celebities such as Taylor Swift wear our bags to the Oscars was an incredible experience. Spring/summer 2017 preview For the collection this year we’re offering a combination of pop art and design, bringing colours and textures from the past into the present. B U Y E R Country USA Year of founding 2011 The stores Calypso, W Hotels The Store Garmany, Harvey Nichols Ristir, Intermix Collections per year 3 Upcoming selling dates All year T H E N E W E M M K U O C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 41

B U Y E R 42 The look Modern elegance, sophisticated details, and romantic allure: welcome to the intricate and emotive world of Ellen Conde.A jewellery line with a sense of self-awareness, Ellen Conde evokes a powerful and beautiful experience to match the heart, style, and spirit of every woman. Inspiration My jewellery draws inspiration from a blend of influences and imagery. I’ve always felt drawn to the glamour of Hollywood’s classic silver screen goddesses, such as Ava Gardner, Elizabeth Taylor, and Greta Garbo. My Russian origins have also played a pivotal role in moulding my taste. For me, jewellery embodies an expression of our deepest desires and most intimate dreams. My vision stems from a fascination with beauty, poetry and magic – all of which are delicately woven into my creations. I’ve always been attracted to luxury materials, their light, their colours, their reflections. I love the soft femininity of pearls, and how pieces composed with them require a particular finesse to achieve a harmonious balance in their arrangement. My jewels belong to the world of emotions that inspires my aesthetic vision: timeless symbols offering fresh renditions of beauty. Key pieces The Colette necklace is one of our most precious pieces. Its glacial ensemble boasts magnificent structure and volume, inspiring the most gracious silhouette. The special rose gold effect of the Colette almond conveys warmth and softness through its pearls and crystals. Beaded into the chain, the powder almond pearls create volume and fullness, giving harmony to the arrangement. Another key piece is the Khloe Classic necklace, which fully expresses the Ellen Conde signature style: grace, exquisite craftsmanship and luxury. The necklace showcases a distinct contrast of shapes and materials, featuring sparkling, clear Swarovski crystals combined with compact, white timeless pearls. Positioned on a ruthenium-plated chain, the arrangement gives the piece an industrial look and striking contemporary appeal. Ellen Conde

B U Y E R 43 43 elements embellish the line’s feminine spirit: each piece boasts graceful, sophisticated details and a romantic aesthetic coupled with a fresh contemporary attitude. The collection offers dramatic contrasts between elements including rhodium and ruthenium- plated chains, luxurious Swarovski crystals, timeless pearls, and a whisper of silk.The textures, with soft accents and playful volume, inspire a cool and classic summer aesthetic. Modern and sophisticated, the collection channels the spirit and the beauty of every woman. ELLEN CONDE I would also highlight the Marlen Classic necklace, a polished collar detailed with crystal black pearls and clear crystals, Blanche Classic inspires elegance and poise. Blanche projects a stunning, iconic presence that is certain to enhance any evening outfit. Signatures Soft shapes and classic elements complement the feminine silhouette in all of Ellen Conde’s jewellery. Each piece features an elegant juxtaposition of elements: Swarovski crystals, symbol of glamour and elegance, and precious soft pearls, symbol of timeless femininity, against rhodium industrial chains – a reference to the brand’s contemporary attitude. Country Italy Year of founding 2013 The stores Bloomingdales, Harvey Nichols, Luisa Via Roma, The Swank Shop, Lenoir Collections per year 2 Upcoming selling dates Premiere Classe, Paris, 29 Sept – 2 Oct 2016 T H E N E W E L L E N C O N D E C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M The client Ellen Conde speaks to confident and strong women who are still delicate and feminine, women who are looking to elevate their style with extremely wearable yet sophisticated pieces. Ellen Conde stands for eye-catching, authentic and contemporary jewellery which skillfully combines seemingly opposing design elements. Spring/summer 2017 preview Our spring/summer 2017 collection embodies the iconic elements of Ellen Conde jewellery and fully expresses the brand’s signature style, graceful design, expert craftsmanship, and on-trend luxury. Soft shapes and classic

B U Y E R The look Our aim is to create timeless and very high-end designs which are both practical and luxurious at the same time. There are several important elements we think about when designing our collections: — The concept of timelessness, both aesthetically and in terms of our materials and craftmanship. Our bags are designed to last for more than just a season – hopefully forever – and to become even more beautiful when they age. — A careful choice of top quality materials. We only use the best quality on the market, and expect the materials we use to live up to our high standards. — Aesthetics equals functionality. Considering our background in industrial design, there is nothing worse for us than if a bag is just good-looking but does not satisfy your needs. We try to make every bag comfortable and functional for its purpose. Inspiration We are obsessed with form and functionality, trying to get the perfect shape, volume and proportions by studying every detail and considering every possible purpose of our bags. When creating a new model we start by analysing our own tastes and desires. We can get inspired by pretty much everything: from nature to architecture to the works of the Wiener Werkstätte art collective in the early 20th century, to style icons and much more… Key pieces Our most recognisable key piece until now has been our Lisabetta bag. Its generous proportions and iconic design made it a bestseller right away. The feedback was so positive that we decided to explore the Lisabetta idea further and for our upcoming spring/summer collection there will be additional variations of the Lisabetta bag. The client Our client has no specific age but knows R.Verve 44

B U Y E R her own value: she knows what fits her and how she can maximise her impact. She has a strong personality and everything she wears only underlines her natural beauty. Elegant, refined and high-quality materials are very important to her. Style icons We really admire strong and independent women, where charisma, beauty and brains are equally represented. Our face for this year’s A/W campaign is the immensely talented contemporary gallerist Nathalie Halgand and she is the perfect representation of all these values. When we think about famous style icons that we identify with, we would say Jane Birkin, Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Mira Duma, Alexa Chung and Charlotte Casiraghi inspire and delight us. Spring/summer 2017 preview The inspiration behind our upcoming S/S collection is summer at the Italian seaside. We imagined how the R.VERVE woman would visit Portofino or Portovenere for an aperitivo, stopping off at beautiful old towns, combining beach and culture and finally spending the last summer days in the hills of Tuscany. Country Austria/Tuscany Year of founding 2015 The stores Liska, Weekend Moda Collections per year 2 Upcoming selling dates September 2016 T H E N E W R . V E R V E C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M MIRA ROSENHEK Photo: Gioia Zloczower 45 45

B U Y E R The look Our collection is based around vintage-inspired gloves made of beautiful leathers paired with high- tech materials. Our aesthetic caters to the preferences of customers from around the world. Though of course, a particular item may be very popular in one part of the world and much less so in another. Weather also matters, so we always take the climate into account. Inspiration When designing a new item social media is a huge help for us. With our clients’ assistance and our efforts to meet their individual needs we are able to find the right direction. Key pieces Our classic bestselling item comes in six leather types: deerskin, suede, nappa, peccary, nubuck and carpincho. But our feature combination is leather and cashmere. Signatures For a perfect fit we use specially developed sizing charts. We use vintage measuring tools for the ideal shapes and curves. Small elements are very important, and we experiment with them.You can get a totally different model by altering cuff edges, lining or stitches. The client Our customer is an upper-class Merola B U Y E R ALBERTO MEROLA 46

B U Y E R intellectual who prefers smaller luxury brands to large mass-market brands. In short, he’s a real gentleman, unpretentious and reserved. Style icons We made gloves for Titanic, which won an Academy Award for Best Costume Design, and we were among those who made it happen, so I think we can call all its characters ‘style icons’. Our gloves have adorned the hands of many famous women, from Ingrid Bergman and Princess Soraya of Iran to Princess Margaret. Highlights When Deborah Lynn Scott got an Academy Award for Best Costume Design for Titanic, it established our star Country Italy Year of founding 1885 The stores Bergdorf Goodman, Isetan Mituskoshy, Shinsegae Lansmere, Lane Crawford Collections per year 2 Upcoming selling dates January 2017 T H E N E W M E R O L A C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M status on the European and American markets. Merola\'s historical relevance cannot be overestimated. The brand’s prestige was enhanced when the Ministry for Culture and Heritage chose us for its hundred-year archive. OUR CLASSIC BESTSELLING ITEM COMES IN SIX LEATHER TYPES: DEERSKIN, SUEDE, NAPPA, PECCARY, NUBUCK AND CARPINCHO. BUT OUR FEATURE COMBINATION IS LEATHER AND CASHMERE 47

B U Y E R The look London brand Eshvi draws on the energetic spirit of this trend hotspot and cultural melting pot, bringing bold, mysterious and evocative jewellery to life. Each piece transforms an ordinary outfit into an extraordinary one. From dressing up an otherwise simple day-look to creating a statement of an evening, Eshvi offers key pieces to add a little London magic to every outfit. Inspiration We get inspiration from everywhere and everything! Living in London gives us the opportunity to see so many things – exhibitions, art, even just people on the street can give us ideas! Everything around us inspires us. Key pieces Colour has always been a characteristic feature of Eshvi’s aesthetic. We wanted to create a fresh and playful line of jewellery, and a good sprinkling of colourful stones certainly helps! Signatures Eshvi means ‘fang’ in Georgian, and is generally understood to be a good luck charm. This iconic symbol is a distinguishing design detail of our brand Eshvi 48

B U Y E R and features centrally or subtly in our pieces. The client We create jewellery for the woman who knows what she wants, knows her own mind and is confident in expressing herself and and experimenting with her style. Highlights Since the brand was launched in 2012, Eshvi has already been featured in numerous fashion weeks including Paris and London, and garnered praise in magazines such as Vogue, Elle, Harpers Bazaar and L’Officiel. As a newly established brand in a huge fashion market we’re particularly proud of this. Spring/summer 2017 preview Every creation is born from the inspiration we gather from things we admire and aspire to. Based on our admiration for Cubism, Eshvi SS17 fine and costume jewellery collections are closely connected to this avant-garde art movement, which revolutionised the world of art and still plays a crucial role in today’s fashion. The designs pay homage to Cubism by playing with two-dimensional shapes to create three- dimensional illusions. B U Y E R Country UK Year of founding 2012 The stores Kabiri, Luisa Via Roma, The Box Boutique, Le 66, Les Suites Collections per year 2 Upcoming selling dates All year T H E N E W E S H V I C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 49 49

B U Y E R The look The Tuleste girl is the epitomy of timeless style. Think iconic 60s French cinema with a fun twist. We don’t take ourselves too seriously and believe in the transformative effect of being playful and flirty with accessories. Inspiration We surround ourselves with passionate people, music, cinema and art. And of course wherever we go we just keep our eyes open. Key pieces We have started a pom pom revolution and I think it’s very safe to say that our pom pom earrings have become quite a signature for us, along with our stackable enamel and metal rings that are perfect for really any occasion. Once you have these key pieces you’ll wonder what you did without them. Signatures Although we are known for our sleek metals, the brand has evolved, combining more textural materials such as fur, feathers, and most recently, yarn. We love the natural evolution of our classic pom pom earrings. Our stackable enamels are all hand made and something we are quite proud of. The client Our girl is ageless with a beguiling personal style. Tuleste Style icons Brigitte Bardot, Anna Karina, Rihanna, Kate Moss, Verushka, Diana Ross, Sharon Tate, Grace Jones. Highlights We have daily highlights, from seeing someone ‘Tuleste’d up’ on the streets, to creating something new, but some solid achievements include gracing the cover of WWD at the time of our launch, being included in top magazines around the globe alongside major brands we look up to and respect, and seeing icons such as Rihanna in our designs. Country USA Year of founding 2008 The stores United Arrows, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, Intermix, Nordstrom, American Rag Collections per year 3 Upcoming selling dates All year SATU AND CELESTE GREENBERG 50

B U Y E R B U Y E R T H E N E W T U L E S T E C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 51

B U Y E R Roxxlyn The look Each product is made of real stone: either marble, quartzite or slate. The urban/ modern look and feel combined with natural elements and exclusive materials make Roxxlyn products so unique and outstanding. Inspiration We get our inspiration from exploring nature but also from street life: the architecture of the city and the way people inhabit it. Key pieces Our foundation piece is the classic Roxxlyn Mineral Case for the iPhone. It was awarded the prestigious Good Design Award 2015 by the Chicago Athenaeum Museum of Architecture and Design. It is made of aluminium, alcantara and a natural structured slate stone. Available in different frame and stone colours. Signatures Stones, stones and stones. Our phone cases, briefcases, clutches, watches and other products are all made of genuine stone (marble, quartzite or slate). The client Our customers are looking for something special. They don’t want to buy ordinary products you could find at any corner. They want to express their individuality and style. Most are not looking for big brands, but for quality and minimalistic design. Some others are looking for high-class materials like clean white marble. Highlights We launched in аutumn 2014, took part in exhibitions in Paris, London, New York, Berlin, Copenhagen, Florence and Shanghai. Roxxlyn won ‘Good Design Award 2015’ and got nominated for ‘German Design Award 2016’. 52

Spring/summer 2017 preview We wanted to give our customers the chance to buy more products than a phone case or Macbook skin, so we have developed briefcases, clutches and a watch with a marble dial for the SS17 season.The collection has more colourful exclusive quartzite stones with red, grey, turquoise and rose colours. With this collection we also expand our product line for women. OUR FOUNDATION PIECE IS THE CLASSIC ROXXLYN MINERAL CASE FOR THE IPHONE. IT WAS AWARDED THE PRESTIGIOUS GOOD DESIGN AWARD 2015 BYTHE CHICAGO ATHENAEUM MUSEUM OF ARCHITECTURE AND DESIGN. IT IS MADE OF ALUMINIUM,ALCAN- TARA AND A NATURAL STRUCTURED SLATE STONE Country Germany Year of founding 2014 The stores Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Estnation, Breuninger Collections per year 2 Upcoming selling dates June-October 2016/ January-March 2017 T H E N E W R O X X L Y N C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 53

B U Y E R The look Vonschwanenflügelpupke, or VONSP for short, specialises in prints of objects from real life, produced to the finest Italian quality standards. Our two-woman team of Eleonore von Schwanenflügel and Stephanie Pupke are always looking for vivid contrasts. The colourful illustrations consist of hand-drawn objects, photorealistic elements and other techniques. The scarves can be worn as a top or bottom, they can be draped as a dress, they can be combined with each other. The scarves are perfect headpieces, they protect, they warm, they hide or simply decorate. That is what we always keep in mind when we work on the look of the prints. The mixture of radiant red, electric blue, lightest neon green and shocking yellow with cool navy and sophisticated skin tones is a consequence of the colour concept - the only colour is multicolour. Inspiration We\'ve printed beetroot on silk, we\'ve worked out the beauty of furniture motifs, porcelain designs — even frozen food. At the beginning of each process we discuss ideas and visions, often by bringing objects and pictures of these objects to find out if they can help to tell a story. Some of the things are so characteristic that they stand as single piece of a huge universe. That is how the beetroot came to represent the roots of our company and determine the VONSP philosophy. There are many things that can be designed to touch the observer. These things can act as ambassadors. Key pieces We work on our textile carrés, or squares, in several dimensions – this determines the whole collection and the interdisciplinary character of our work. The print designs are always placed carefully with this square frame in mind, like a painting which has a certain composition on the canvas. As a design team we love to realise prints on furniture or other textile elements of interior as well. To enrich the VONSP aesthetic we collaborate with artists, photographers and architects. We’re lucky to have chances to add another dimension to our work, like technical renderings or artistic paintings. Vonsp 54

B U Y E R wardrobes with a unique accessory as a quirky companion piece. Our client has her feet on the ground but is still looking at the stars. Style icons Elsa Schiaparelli was an artist who included very unusual motifs on her gowns, jewellery and accessories. She resisted the prejudices of Parisian society and became a celebrated fashion icon. She never compromised and always stood for exceptional style. Her attitude is a huge inspiration for us. Highlights In 2011 we were commended by the Berlin Premium Exhibition and in 2013 by the Berlin Senate – which allowed us to arrange shows and presentations in Berlin and build up our German distribution. Our participation in Parisian Fashion Week is important for selling to international clients. Spring/summer 2017 preview VONSP SIGNATURE SS17 is summed With a core theme for every collection, we always concentrate on developing a range of unique and outstanding single motifs, brought together with a sense of irony, ambition and above all, a loving eye. All the pieces can be combined or stand for themselves – they can be worn or they can be framed and hung on a wall. Even the simplest piece is a statement, and the VONSP customer becomes a curator. Signatures The choice of materials is always governed by our love of pure, natural qualities and blends: pure silk, cotton-silk and wool- silk blends, and pure wool. We also have a strong belief in sustainability. All our goods are made in the European Union, showcasing classic and precious Italian craftsmanship. The client When we create it is an emotional and subjective process. We are lucky that this kind of contemplation serves the needs of our customer. We create for independent women who want to enrich their beautiful Country Germany Year of founding 2011 The stores Le Bon Marché, Victorienne Kadö, Harvey Nichols Hong Kong, Isetan, Gout Upcoming selling dates 2 T H E N E W V O N S P C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M up by two very characteristic animals: the swan and the goose. These animals stand for continuous contrasts and as well as consistencies in the designs. These quirky illustrations make our foulards a beloved companion as well as a precious piece of adornment. ELEONORE VON SCHWANENFLÜGEL AND STEPHANIE PUPKE VONSP SIGNATURE SS17 IS SUMMED UP BY TWO VERY CHARACTERISTIC ANIMALS: THE SWAN AND THE GOOSE. THESE ANIMALS STAND FOR CONTINUOUS CONTRASTS AND AS WELL AS CONSISTENCIES IN THE DESIGN 55

B U Y E R A DETAILED REPORT IT IS NO SECRET THAT ACCESSORIES ARE THE KEY TO STYLE. MAKE SPACE FOR JUST A FEW OF THIS COMING SPRING’S MAJOR TRENDS AND YOU CAN REMAIN AHEAD OF THE PACK WITHOUT EVEN CHANGING YOUR WARDROBE STAY ON YOUR TOES In footwear, the most feminine trend is for heels with an ankle ribbon, conjuring images of graceful ballerinas wearing pointe shoes with satin ribbons. The collections from Camilla&Marc, Erdem, and Adam Lippes offer elegant, light flats with a narrow toe, the style of the season. YOUNG AT HEART Designers know that you’re only as old as you feel, and this spring’s collection is keeping us young with playful clothes and accessories, frolicking from candy canes to fairy tales. Maison Michel has hats with plastic beading, Tabitha Simmons Adam Lippes Erdem Valentino Red Valentino Magnetic Midnight Swarovski Emm Kuo Giuseppe di Morabito Tabitha Simmons Mark Cross Judith Leiber Antonio Marras 56

B U Y E R Alexander McQueen Balmain Just Cavalli Gucci offers floral-embroidered sandals, and Delpozo’s bags are embellished with stars. Magnetic Midnight, an accessories brand, offers varicoloured headpieces to update your look; Valentino complements romantic dresses with small bags embellished with green leaf keyrings, while Thom Browne’s dog-shaped bags are much more obedient than the real thing. Bag designer Judith Leiber also recommends you get yourself a pet, only this time it’s a crystal-encrusted penguin clutch bag – what else! – to transform the dullest outfit into a sparkling winter wonderland. BELT UP Accentuated waists are back in. On the catwalks, the trend for voluminous garments is now facing competition from the feminine trend for highlighting a slender waist with a stylish belt. Wide ones with or without buckles are the clear favourites, like those from Philosophy, Balmain, and Alexander McQueen. But it’s not only dresses that boast belts; Altuzarra has them perfectly complementing a two-piece suit for a smart business look. So, a belt on top of a jacket is a fresh choice for fashionable women in business to keep in mind. Roberto Cavalli Altuzarra Philosophy TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 57

B U Y E R Chanel Chanel Dsquared2 A FRENCH ACCENT Spring is a great time to ponder the wearing of berets. This type of hat evokes iconic French style and is a great fit for the new season’s wardrobe. Karl Lagerfeld, one fashion maestro you can always trust, has created a whole gallery of feminine looks crowned with berets for Chanel. If the classic beret is not your taste, consider Lorenzo Serafini’s caps created for Philosophy. GLITTER EXPLOSION Footwear items encrusted with jewels, rhinestones, and other loud and proud embellishments are back, and just as fabulous as ever. Luxurious mules, sandals, and moccasins are actually perfect daywear; complementing a minimalistic outfit without going over the top. RULE BRITANNIA Dean and Dan Caten from Dsquared2 and Alessandro Michele from Gucci must be psychic, as the British flag colours are all over bags, sweaters, and slip-ons in their collections. True, Philosophy Alberta Ferretti Rochas Elie Saab 58

B U Y E R B U Y E R Dsquared2 Gucci Sacai Versace fashion stays away from politics, but it has never hurt anyone to be up on the news. HIGH LIFE This season will witness platform shoes making a comeback. Almost every designer has thick-soled shoes, often with massive heels, in their collection. This season’s rules let you pair them with anything, from sport suits to romantic dresses. LIVE LIGHT Good news for minimalists: business handbags are much smaller this summer. Why lumber yourself with stuff when it’s so warm and cheerful outside? Givenchy, Agnona, and Bottega Veneta designers complement a refined businesswoman’s everyday look with a mini bag. Whether it comes with a long strap, a chain, or just a small leather handle, wear it with businesslike elegance and confidence, and bring nothing but your must-haves: purse, phone, lipstick, and a good mood. Leave the rest at home or in your office desk. We love living light! Elizabeth and James Agnona 59 59

B U Y E R YOUNG ITALIAN DESIGNER GIUSEPPE DI MORABITO LAUNCHED HIS BRAND OF WOMEN’S CLOTHING IN 2014,WHEN HE WAS JUST 22. HERE HE DISCUSSES HIS LOVE OF SPECIAL FABRICS, INTRICATE EMBROIDERY AND ART HISTORY Giuseppe, tell us what led to the creation of your own fashion brand? It’s always been my dream. Once I had the opportunity to meet the right people and friends, at the right moment, I instinctively felt it was the right thing to do. It is a very tough but unique journey for an emerging brand to take its first steps. Tell us about your experience with the famous fashion contest Who is on next? What impact has it had on your brand? It really triggered a chain of positive reactions. I met colleagues and experts from this sector, and had the opportunity to get some very important advice – and they’ve actually been helping me ever since. It led me to focus on the strengths and weaknesses of my collection at the time, and it gave me the opportunity to experience the world of fashion from another, more direct perspective. What is the process of creating a new collection like for you? I usually start with historical research of trends and iconographies. Often I refer to art and my colleagues work with me on finding details and the specific ambiance of the past to reinterpret in new collections. I usually try to mix tastes and aesthetic perceptions. Mixing contemporary with the historic, although it could sound banal, it is one of the processes I am most into. INSPIRED BY THE PAST 60

B U Y E R How do you manage to combine creative vision with market demands in your collections? That\'s really down to materials and research.The fact is that I never want to sacrifice quality. I am heavily involved in the selection of special fabrics, prints and embroideries. I usually pick handmade techniques and sophisticated Western processing for instance. But I also try to find the best price for the best product when creating pieces. My collections present a wide range of pieces, so I hope I can satisfy market demand. What makes your brand’s vision and style unique, and what sets your collections apart? I hope I can provide an alternative to what already exists in this sector. However it is very difficult since the market is growing every day and there are incredible talents everywhere. I like to feature old styles, and idiosyncratic details of the past. I mix and remix different features and aesthetic stimulus. Then I try to use them in order to express my vision of a post-romantic conception of female clothing, though I don’t like stereotypes. I don’t want to reduce the womenswear wardrobe to fixed, affected categories. What signature elements of your brand can be found in every collection? There are recurrent shapes, such as the folded gown or particular fabrics I am fond of, such as silk duchesse or three- dimensional macramé. I must also confess I have a weakness for long dresses. Describe the woman you design your pieces for. This woman rejects overblown and purist classical ideals of femininity. She is in search of high quality materials; she looks for aesthetic value in what she is wearing. The brand doesn’t necessarily limit itself to younger women. Give us a glimpse of what to expect from your SS17 collection. There will be a contrast between recurrent and multifaceted pastel romanticism with some laminated fabrics. There will be some gold, metallic purple, unusual prints and patterns I\'ve been on. There will be also a military air to the garments – such as jackets and bombers – even though it has been reinterpreted with flowers as symbols of peace. This is probably what’s my collection about: contrasting the delicate aesthetic that characterises my brand with an updated and fresh vision of next summer’s women’s wardrobe. What do you think about collaborating with buyers online? I think that it’s an opportunity to explore a new vision of the fashion market and its internal dynamics. I am happy to be part of it. It’s such an innovative way to help emerging brands to expand in specific markets. T H E N E W G I U S E P P E D I M O R A B I T O C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 61

B U Y E R HOLIDAY SPIRIT DIFFERENT AS THEY MAY BE FROM ONE ANOTHER, THE SPRING/SUMMER 2017 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS SHARE A RELAXED OFF-HAND VIBE. CAN YOU THINK OF A BETTER TIME TO EXPERIMENT WITH YOUR STYLE THAN WITH THE HOT SUMMER DAYS AND HOLIDAYS JUST AROUND THE CORNER? DENIM DAYS You may say that jeans are boring, but designers disagree. Head-to-toe denim is the ultimate in S/S 2017 menswear. With a classic jeans jacket-and-trousers combo, overalls or complex layered outfits there is plenty to choose from. Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing offers the most creative take on the trend, adding an ironic yet laid-back summer spin on comfortable layered ensembles. Why not mix a shirt, leggings, an overcoat and a parka in light denim, to pull off the look to perfection? Once an American working man’s uniform, denim now reigns supreme: try a classic retro look — overalls or a shirt and baggy Andrea Pompilio 3.1 Phillip Lim Balmain Valentino trousers — and add a cowboys touch with a neckerchief. Some tips for bandana tying may be found at Antonio Marras and Andrea Pompilio. If you want something more modern, there is the Diesel Black Gold collection: edgy and refreshing with its narrower jeans and kimono-style jackets. DRESSING DOWN WITH A DRESSING GOWN Summer is a holiday season. This may be the reason why many designers derived their garments from the dressing gown. They don’t call it a ‘gown’ for nothing: flaring tunics and coats, cut to resemble bathrobes or Arabian robes, can be worn wherever you go. Crumpled topcoats accompany Versace\'s everyday two-pieces and Balmain’s evening silk overalls. Roberto Cavalli’s models flash some hippy flesh, throwing colourful tunics and dressing gowns over jeans, while Louis Vuitton and Fendi transform a bathrobe into a stunning summer overcoat that you can wear to the beach. True, sometimes designers’ imaginations run too wild, but this is definitely not the case here. Consider your everyday dressing gown — in summer it can be your holidays go-to. TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 62

B U Y E R Louis Vuitton Balmain Roberto Cavalli Fendi Versace Roberto Cavalli Dolce&Gabbana Paul&Joe 63

B U Y E R 3.1 Phillip Lim TO CUT IT SHORT Men’s summer trousers have irretrievably lost several inches and now the ankle is on the loose! Not even two-pieces have escaped the cropped trend, to say nothing of casual, summer trousers and jeans. The trailblazers are Balenciaga’s Demna Gvasalia and Dolce&Gabbana. Gvasalia plays with proportions, making shoulders look bigger with shoulder pads and legs shorter with trousers cropped unusually high above the ankle. He makes up for the loss in the length with white chunky-heeled boots. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana are less radical, showcasing outfits with short carrot trousers for everyday wear and white evening two- pieces for hot pool parties. Pair the latter with white laced shoes and a contrast shirt. For more inspiration go to Kenzo, Paul&Joe and Trussardi. Dolce&Gabbana DSquared2 Trussardi Balenciaga Paul&Joe Dolce&Gabbana TEXT: Anastasia Khvatova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 64

B U Y E R DREAM IN COLOUR A black suit? Boring. Grey pinstripe? Behind the times. Blue? Too \'classic\', definitely not! Dare to dream in a vivid suit, especially if you are leaving your office for a holiday: vermillion orange (Balmain and Roberto Cavalli), pink and embroidered (Gucci), or crimson with abstract prints (Dior Homme). Strictly speaking, a holiday suit isn\'t a suit in the traditional sense. Balmain’s items are executed in satin, with a belted kimono instead of a jacket. Diesel Black Gold’s summer two-pieces are made of red-and-white pinstriped denim. Peter Dundas of Roberto Cavalli keeps the 70s spirit with slim-fitting jackets and slightly flared trousers. Paul Smith’s fitted purple suits are to be teamed with motley accessories and tees, while Paul&Joe takes a break from the colour frenzy and introduces pastels. A men’s suit in powder pink? Why, yes! Diesel Black Gold Dior Homme Gucci Paul Smith Balmain Gucci Paul&Joe 65

B U Y E R 01 ROSANTICA Rosantica is the loving creation of Michela Panero. After many years of collaborations with some of the most important high fashion maisons in Milan, Michela has decided to create her own fashion jewellery line. The unique mix of Italian jewellery tradition and modern shapes and trends creates a new and stunning interpretation of timeless pieces. Taking inspiration from travel, nature and the fashion world, Rosantica reflects the magic of natural gems, attention to detail and Italian craftsmanship. 02 GLADSTONE Gladstone is a premium English accessory brand, handcrafted using the finest Italian leathers. Established in 2015 by John O’Sullivan, previously chief operating director at Tanner Krolle; the brand bridges the gap between functionality and timeless design. Collections include sleek backpacks using luxury materials such as pewter-plated brass zips through to simple, elegant travel bags lined with Alcantara. Gladstone offers the ultimate accessories for the modern man. 03 D’ESTRËE Two sisters, designer Géraldine and entrepreneur Victoire, are behind this brand. Together, they’ve created D’estrëe. These siblings have reimagined a cooler and more crazily colourful palette of hats for men and women. Passionate artisans work on every piece meticulously by hand at their millinery in Paris: offering an exquisite finish, a taste for detail, and the ‘Parisian touch’. 01 03 Rosantica D’Estrëe Gladstone YOUNG AND PROMISING WE BRING YOU A LIST OF UP-AND-COMING DESIGNERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD. REMEMBER THESE NAMES: THEY\'RE OUTTO MAKE IT! 02 66

B U Y E R 04 FEDERICA TOSI Federica Tosi is a label founded in 2016 by the designer as the natural evolution of her previous brand Luxury Fashion, a tailoring project started in 2007 which focused on an innovative and extremely contemporary overview of women\'s clothing. A new Made in Italy concept – supported by a broad analysis of the product and market requirements – where craftsmanship and design find concrete expression in minimalist jewellery and sophisticated and eclectic clothes, with a strong urban connotation. The spring/summer 2017 Federica Tosi collection, winner of the Lancia Prize in the second edition of the Time Award contest, is characterised by a romantic-rock mood with a contemporary twist. The balance of textures is the key to the movement of the entire collection: leather melting into silk chiffon for a feminine look, while the lightest poplin shirts are the basis for unusual cuts and applications. 05 IOANNA SOLEA Cypriot/Austrian designer Ioanna Solea launches her brand in 2013. The label strives to combine a luxurious spirit with the poetic side of handcrafted techniques, often playing with the tension between raw and defined, providing a contemporary take on femininity with a touch of irony. A skillful combination of refinement and sensuality, with exceptional material and highly perfected detail for unique and stand-out pieces that are entirely made in Italy. Handbags are seen as a status accessory, and necklaces simply as a piece to adorn. 05 04 Federica Tosi Ioanna Solea N E W C O L L E C T I O N S A R E A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 67

B U Y E R RENOWNED FOR THEIR HIGH-QUALITY PRODUCTS AND ELABORATE DESIGN, THESE RUSSIAN AND UKRAINIAN BRANDS WILL FLY OFF THE SHELVES OF THE WORLD\'S MOST EXCLUSIVE BOUTIQUES MADE IN EASTERN EUROPE Viktoriia Balaniuk FLOW THE LABEL PHOTO: Anton Kulakowskiy, Bestin.ua PHOTO: Daria Soroka PHOTO: Daria Soroka

B U Y E R B U Y E R T H E N E W F L O W T H E L A B E L C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M What inspires you when creating collections? For me, the source of inspiration is invariably art, all of its classical forms. Allusions to retro cinema, to 20th century modernist paintings, and to the latest creations of Ukrainian artists consistently show up in FLOW the Label collections, because I have a sincere love for all of these. As to what gives me power to continually build the brand, it is, as for most women, my beloved family, travelling, healthy holidays, physical and mental activity, enjoying the beauty of nature, and appreciating the unique moments of life. What elements are key to your collections? We love the 70s aesthetic in fashion, mostly Western but also Ukrainian. Of course, we transform it in our own way, enhance it with our interpretation, and enrich it with some trendy elements, but you can always recognize the overall visual pattern of the 70s. This naturally flows into a relaxed boho style, as we often make use of loose fit and bohemian undertones. However, our collection always sticks to classical shapes and retains overall calm. What kind of woman do you design your clothes for? First of all, she is knowledgeable in matters of fashion, and she has that peculiar insight, a subtle feeling that she uses to bring harmony to the world and to herself. I believe that being able to create beauty, to ‘wear’ it, and to actually live in beauty is a truly feminine quality. Yes, she can be pretty daring, both in how she combines her clothing items, for example, and in how bravely she makes herself known in life. She may be very different in other aspects, but one thing I know for sure, she has a striking personality. Where are your collections produced, and what materials do you use? We have recently launched a small facility of our own, where we can produce medium-sized lots. For really large projects, we still resort to the contractors, as we have excellent communication and rapport with them. Still, making clothes in-house is a delight. There is nothing like the feeling you get when you have taken part in and supervised the creation of a whole outfit, from the original sketch down to the last seam. As to the materials, one of FLOW’s key features is that we try to make the widest possible use of natural silk, linen, cotton, wool, etc. Denim also often shows up in our collections. We are especially picky about fabrics, which we mostly buy at Première Vision show in Paris. What are your plans for the near future, and how will you develop your brand further? Recently we have begun to release pre-collections. We had set this challenge for ourselves, and achieved it within rather tight timeframes, especially so for an Eastern European label. So, we are now focused on setting up the new production processes and learning to handle new workloads and new tasks. We are going to keep showing our two main collections at the Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days event, and to demonstrate our full set of collections at the More Dash showroom in Paris. I think we will continue cooperation with the WHITE tradeshow, where we were recognised as the most promising label last season. This was especially nice as we had not even submitted a contestant’s application form. They simply called us and said that the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers had chosen us from thousands of candidates. Ukrainian fashion is being increasingly discussed abroad in the recent years. What do you think has caused this growing interest in that fashion industry? Let me say right away that everything I say about Ukrainian fashion is totally true for Russia as well. The Ukrainians have always had a unique taste, imagination, and creative gift. This is clear even from how many of the world’s outstanding artists have their roots in Ukraine. On the other hand, we never used to have any proper education in fashion, or awareness, or even just material resources. At the same time, fashion is a multi-billion- dollar industry, and merely having good ideas is not enough to become part of it. Today, Ukrainian designers have become more competent, and although there is still quite a lot to learn, we already deserve to take our place on the international scene. We are no longer just ‘promising’, we are now able to live up to our promises. I mean, I believe the interest is there because we are talented and hardworking newcomers, enthusiastic and highly capable. We are also a bit different. I think it is the same with Russian fashion. The phenomenon of, say, Gosha Rubchinskiy, has taken place largely because of these factors. PHOTO: Daria Soroka 69

Alexander Terekhov ALEXANDER TEREKHOV

B U Y E R Where do you draw inspiration? I’m always up for something new — I love travelling and meeting interesting people. My creativity is sparked by a picturesque landscape, a new destination, or when something nice happens unexpectedly. What are the key elements of your collections? My collections may be very different, but I always strive to make them feminine and elegant. Tell us about the woman that would wear your clothes. She enjoys being herself. She never pretends because she sees no point in it. She knows what she wants and isn’t afraid of her desires. She is successful. She is smart. She turns heads. She is beautiful and she knows it. She might stand out from the crowd, but she always stays true to herself. Where are your garments made and what are your favourite materials? All my clothes are made at the brand’s manufacturing facilities in Moscow region. I prefer natural fabrics with rich textures — flowing silk, textured jacquard, sequined materials. What are you planning for the future of your brand? We are going to fully enter the international market and also develop a teen clothing line. Name some designers that have been major influences on you. Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior. Russian fashion is on everyone’s lips lately. How would you explain this growing interest? I think Russian designers have a fresh perspective on fashion. They are not afraid to experiment, yet a lot of our labels reveal a close connection with Russian culture and traditions, its aesthetic and beautiful diversity. What have the Russian designers learnt over the past few years and what are they yet to master? Hard to say. We may still lack an efficient production process. What is your vision of the future of Russian fashion on a global scale? I think things are looking good for Russian fashion. There are a lot of talented designers here. What do foreign buyers and customers expect from the Russian designers? The same, I think, as from other designers. Strong individuality and ability to sell well. T H E N E W A L E X A N D E R T E R E K H O V C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M ALEXANDER TEREKHOV STORE, MOSCOW 71

B U Y E R Where do you find your inspiration? I’m often inspired by the world I personally live in. For example, when I was creating my A/W 16/17 collection, I was thinking about post-Soviet women. As for our S/S 2017 collection, which celebrates the brand’s 10th anniversary, I was inspired by looking through the BEVZA archives. This collection sums up all the major creations of the brand. Tell us about the defining features of your collections. My collections always feature a white dress and a straight-cut trench coat. Whenever I tackle elaborate tailoring, I always strive to make it look minimalistic. Describe the woman that would wear your clothes. She works hard and loves her work. She is educated, ambitious, a woman of taste, and she always chooses quality over quantity. Where do you make your garments and what materials do you prefer? My clothes are manufactured in the Ukraine. We use natural fabrics that can easily be recycled. It is important for me that the materials I use are environmentally friendly, since I care for the environment. As I make investment pieces that will last for years, I only use fabrics of the highest quality. What next for Bevza? What do you see in the future for your brand? Currently our pieces can be bought in multi-brand boutiques in the UK, the USA, Australia, Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Ukraine. Our current aim is to expand our geographic scope. What are your major influences in fashion? I love the expertise of Phoebe Philo. And Raf Simons. I also admire Cristobal Balenciaga. He is just a tailoring genius, and Phoebe and Raf were also inspired by him. Ukrainian fashion has been attracting plenty of attention lately. How would you explain this growing interest? I think it’s pretty simple: it’s just that Ukrainian designers have started going abroad more frequently. I am glad that we’ve caught the eye of international buyers and media. More and more foreign journalists are attending Ukrainian Fashion Week. I think our trademark is our genuine enthusiasm for our work. What have Ukrainian designers learnt over the past few years, and what are they yet to master? Things are still complicated due to the export and customs regulations, as well as problems with production facilities and supply of raw materials at the domestic level. But at the same time we have adjusted to working for both previews and full- scale runway shows, learnt how to deal with showrooms and to meet delivery deadlines. How do you envision the future of Ukrainian fashion on a global scale? I believe Ukrainian fashion is gaining momentum. Its potential is enormous. We took our A/W 16/17 collection to Tbilisi, and look what a success it was. Talking about my colleagues I would like to point out Vita Kin, who managed to go global with her single-product brand, and has enjoyed fabulous success. What makes Eastern European fashion different from Western European fashion? The designers’ mentality and worldview. 72

T H E N E W B E V Z A C O L L E C T I O N I S A V A I L A B L E F O R B U Y E R S T O O R D E R A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M B U Y E R Svetlana Bevza BEVZA

B U Y E R PHOTO: courtesy of Trendsquire WHATEVER TRENDSETTERS THINK ABOUT SEASONAL BYING BEHAVIOUR,THE CUSTOMER KEEPS LOOKING FOR SOMETHING NEW.TRENDSQUIRE, A TREND RESEARCH BUREAU, GIVES US AN INSIGHT INTO THE MAIN TRENDS OF THE COMING SPRING/SUMMER SEASON SPRING/SUMMER 2017 TREND OVERVIEW WOMEN Next spring, all the emphasis is on being fem- inine and natural. Unisex outfits make way for loose, flowing shapes and a stronger sensuality. The trend is for knitting, and warm neutrals and pastels, especially light coral reds and blue- greys. The materials in focus are fabrics rich in tactile appeal: textures of satin and silk and jac- quards with exotic floral patterns and blooming psychedelic forests. 1. A cropped tapestry suit 2. A long silk slip-dress, matte or with a subtle metallic shine 3. A stockinette set of trousers and a top 4. An oversize raincoat with a forest-like pattern 5. A cropped jacket with large buttons SS17 TOP FIVE LOOKS: The material from the trend book is courtesy of Trendsquire, an online analytic platform and the first Russian trend research bureau.Trendsquire researches and predicts visual trends in design and fashion, alongside the changing behavioural models and sociocultural tenden- cies of today’s consumers. Visit Trendsquire’s YouTube channel to see a video about visual trends as influenced by the unique tastes of Russian customers. Find out more about Trendsquire at www.trendsquire.ru. 74

B U Y E R MEN With mixed textures, patterns, and quirky propor- tions used on classical items, men’s clothes are ready for a change! Suit-type fabrics show up alongside more utilitarian textiles calling raincoats or tents to mind. Canvas straps, clasps, and buckles link it all together. A ‘fantasy on a theme of a Samurai outfit’ co-exists harmoniously with conventional, classic cuts of greys, beiges, and blues. 1. A loose kimono shirt with wide trousers 2. Head-to-toe chequered patterns, combined with sport sandals 3. A long-sleeved trench coat embellished with eyelets 4. A short-sleeved shirt with an exotic tattoo-style print 5. A shirt with a Japanese-style print, with pale denim dungarees SS17 TOP FIVE LOOKS: 75

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’I am sure that online sales will never, ever supplant of fline shopping in a boutique, because when you look things over, touc h them, tr y them on, look at yourself in the mirror in a cosy environment, and ask an exper t for advice, it makes for a completely unique experience.’ R o s y B i f f i P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f B i f f i p r e s s o f f i c e STRATEGIES

B U Y E R TEXT: Galia Milovzorova 78 DISCOVER THE FASHION SECRETS OF THE FAR EAST AS WE CHAT TO AKIKO SHINODA, DIRECTOR OF INTERNATIONAL AFFAIRS FOR JAPAN FASHION WEEK. SHE TELLS US ABOUT THE HOTTEST JAPANESE TRENDS AND WHAT SETS JAPAN FASHION WEEK APART THE LAND OF THE RISING DESIGNERS What are the distinctive features of Japanese fashion today? Which styles, materials, silhouettes and so on are Japanese designers going wild for? Japanese fashion trends tend to follow international ones, so at the moment loose silhouettes, overalls, and embroidered satin baseball jackets are having their moment, and sports-mix and street-luxury styles are in. Velvet material is also really hot right now. What difficulties does the Japanese fashion market face and how they can be solved in your opinion? The population of Japan is decreasing rapidly, so we need to have foreign tourists in our sights as well as expanding our business overseas. What products should buyers expect to find at Japan Fashion Week? High-quality street-casual menswear. Our menswear is just the best in the world. What do you offer to buyers who want to participate? We invite four or five big buyers from overseas through a collaboration with the government’s Japan External Trade Organisation (JETRO). If buyers would like to visit Tokyo during fashion week, JFWO takes care of arranging tickets. KEITA MARUYAMA PHOTO: Lior Susana

B U Y E R 79 How is the taste of Japanese customers different from foreign ones? Japanese customers want relaxed and casual clothes that fit comfortably. Long evening gowns are not really popular here. Which markets particularly appreciate the aesthetics of Japanese fashion? Where do your designers enjoy the most success? Asian countries appreciate Japanese collections a lot because their young people are so influenced by Japanese pop and street culture. They also love Japanese collections because of the fit. European brands are not usually tailored for the Asian figure. How do you help Japanese designers build their relationships with buyers? We organise several programmes to help promote designers. One example is the Tokyo Fashion Award. This is a new fashion prize, which selects fashion brands from Tokyo that have the potential to thrive on the international market and supports their overseas expansion. Then we choose six winners who are announced during the Tokyo Fashion Week. Do you scout for new Japanese talents? Yes, every season. I have a great team and plenty of contacts around me who are always giving me information and suggestions. What are the plans for the future of Japan Fashion Week? We want to connect with all the fashion weeks in the world and collaborate with each other in order to continue to stimulate the Japanese fashion industry. As for Tokyo Fashion Week’s future plans, it will be the centre of nurturing young talent, producing fresh new designers and helping them conquer the world. WE WANTTO CONNECT WITH ALLTHE FASHION WEEKS IN THE WORLD AND COL- LABORATE WITH EACH OTHER IN ORDER TO CONTINUE TO STIMULATE THE JAPANESE FASHION INDUSTRY.AS FOR TOKYO FASH- ION WEEK’S FUTURE PLANS, IT WILL BE THE CENTRE OF NURTURING YOUNG TALENT, PRODUCING FRESH NEW DESIGNERS AND HELPING THEM CONQUER THE WORLD DRESSEDUNDRESSED MR. GENTLEMAN YOSHIO KUBO

B U Y E R Boasting some of the biggest names from around the world, including key players from international companies like LVMH, Kering, Nike, H&M, Swarovski and Patagonia, the summit featured experts talking about how to safeguard the environment and fight the causes of climate change. Denmark, as a world leader in green technology, was a deeply significant location for this discussion, with 40% of the country’s electricity generated by wind and environmental issues being given highest billing by the government. Patagonia’s Vice President of Environmental Affairs Rick Ridgeway issued a call for more durable products, pointing out that ‘as the usable lifetime of our products increases, the lifetime environmental footprint decreases’. The brand encourages customers to repair or sell clothes they don’t need anymore. Patagonia owns North America’s largest repair centre and has cars driving around the USA offering to fix customers’ old clothes for free. Yet its most provocative and unprecedented effort was the Don\'t Buy This PURE BUSINESS FROM COPENHAGEN TO SEOUL, SUSTAINABILITY IS OF MAJOR IMPORTANCE FOR THE FASHION INDUSTRY. SO IT’S NO WONDER THAT THE COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT, HELD FOR THE FOURTH TIME THIS MAY, HAD ETHICAL BUSINESS HIGH ON ITS LIST OF PRIORITIES COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT TEXT: Galia Milovzorova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 80

B U Y E R B U Y E R COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT AS AMBER VALLETTA PUT IT, NO ONE WANTS TO READ TER- RIBLE STORIES, BECAUSE PEOPLE HAVE ENOUGH PROBLEMS ALREADY: STUDENT LOANS, FAMILY ISSUES, DONALD TRUMP. THE AMERICAN TOP MODEL AND SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPION BELIEVES THAT SHE AND HER FELLOW THINKERS MUST MAKE SUSTAINABILITY SEXY IF THEY WANT TO BE HEARD Jacket campaign: ‘The environmental cost of everything we make is astonishing’, the ad read. ‘Consider the R2 Jacket, one of our best sellers. Making it requires 135 litres of water, enough to provide the necessary daily three glasses of water for 45 people.’ When we scale this up to consider the 80 billion items of clothing produced annually the impact is astonishing, especially considering the unprecedented growth of the garment manufacturing industry, with outputs almost doubling over the last 20 years. If the world’s population climbs from 7.3 AMBER VALLETTA G E T A C C E S S T O D I G I T A L T R E N D R E P O R T S A N D B U Y I N G T I P S R E Q U E S T Y O U R F R E E B U Y E R A C C E S S A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 81

B U Y E R ANNA GEDDA, H&M COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT to 9 billion in the next few decades as scientists predict, this too will inevitably result in a further increase. For Anna Gedda, Head of Sustainability for H&M, the question is whether there will be enough cotton, land to grow it and water to make so many clothes. She is convinced that we won’t be able to stick with the old tried-and-tested strategies if we want our companies to succeed in the next 30 years. H&M’s environmental commitment secured the brand’s place on the Greenpeace\'s Detox Catwalk, which also included Zara and Benetton. These companies were listed among the leaders for delivering on the elimination of hazardous environmental pollutants. Still, it is mass-market brands, including H&M, which are to a large degree to blame for the overconsumption of clothes, footwear and accessories. The brand is known for constantly releasing special offers and for renewing its collections every two weeks, encouraging customers to buy new and often unnecessary garments. As 2012 studies reveal, the British alone have $47 billion worth of unworn clothes in their wardrobes. Whatever the cause and effect of the overconsumption/ overproduction relationship, its ecological impact, particularly that on drinking water, is obvious. Consider a report by the Chinese Ministry of Water Resources for a better understanding of how urgent the problem is. According to the report, as much as 4/5 of groundwater resources in the country are unsuitable for drinking. Gone are the days when eco-awareness was simply a marketing strategy or optional extra. Now sustainability is every label’s obligation, says Marie-Claire Daveu, Chief Sustainability Officer for the Kering group. As she stated at the Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Seoul, ‘When we look at the state of the planet, we can see the effects of climate change. So taking it into account in our business is not an option, it\'s a necessity. At Kering, to help us find solutions to sourcing sustainable materials, we created an 82

B U Y E R H&M CONSCIOUS B U Y E R ‘WHEN WE LOOK ATTHE STATE OF THE PLANET,WE CAN SEE THE EFFECTS OF CLIMATE CHANGE. SO TAKING IT INTO ACCOUNT IN OUR BUSINESS IS NOTAN OPTION, IT\'S A NECESSITY‘ SAYS MARIE-CLAIRE DAVEU MARIE-CLAIRE DAVEU, KERING action plan four years ago. If you want something to be successful, it\'s important to know what the impact is.’ The Kering group is also devoted to working closely with suppliers and carefully overseeing the entire supply chain. Caring about the environment runs in the family for Nadja Swarovski, Swarovski board member. As far back as 1895 Nadja’s great-grandfather was already interested in the benefits of hydropower, and D I S C O V E R B R A N D S S E L E C T E D F O R Q U A L I T Y O F D E S I G N A N D S T R O N G S A L E S P O T E N T I A L R E Q U E S T Y O U R F R E E B U Y E R A C C E S S A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 83

B U Y E R RICK RIDGEWAY, PATAGONIA COPENHAGEN FASHION SUMMIT since then, as Nadja told fashion critic Suzy Menkes, ‘water has always been really important to us for manufacturing and so we\'ve taken great care to make sure that that process is green’. More than that, Swarovski has established a programme that educates schoolchildren in India, Uganda, Brazil and China about the ecological, economic, social and cultural impact of water pollution. Dilys Williams, Head of the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at the University of the Arts, London, has been teaching her students about the importance of responsible fashion production and consumption for almost ten years. She was asked to set up the centre in 2007. ‘I put sustainability into the curriculum in 2006-2007 but it was almost impossible to find ways to teach it,’ she recalls. ‘I decided to have four considerations in looking at sustainability with relation to the curriculum. I asked how we could work with designers, research, businesses and political engagements. We also asked employers if there was a demand for this kind of training and there was.’ ‘What is happening now is that there is a new discipline called design sustainability,’ she adds. The very notion of sustainable fashion has also gained a new dimension: ‘We have gone from a reductionist approach of how can you make this more efficient, to being more expansive, design-led, philosophical and diverse. Students are really thinking about sustainability now. Before it had limited applications, like upcycled garments; now it is more nuanced.’ 84

B U Y E R "DON\'T BUY THIS JACKET" CAMPAIGN, PATAGONIA Sadly discussion of eco- friendly production and responsible consumption is still limited to the university in London and fashion summits in Copenhagen and Seoul, while most customers are bored by such talk. As Amber Valletta put it, no one wants to read terrible stories, because people have enough problems already: student loans, family issues, Donald Trump. The American top model and sustainability champion believes that she and her fellow thinkers must make sustainability sexy if they want to be heard. This view is shared by Eva Kruse, CEO of Copenhagen Fashion Week. According to Kruse, when shopping for clothes people are driven by their tastes, so brands must strive to make sustainable clothes appealing. P L A C E O R D E R S O F T R E N D S E T T I N G C O L L E C T I O N S F R O M A R O U N D T H E W O R L D R E Q U E S T Y O U R F R E E B U Y E R A C C E S S A T V I A D E L B U Y E R . C O M 85

B U Y E R OFFLINE SHOPPING IS HERE TO STAY BUYER ROSY BIFFI IS ALWAYS A WELCOME GUESTAT FASHION SHOWS AND IN SHOWROOMS, BOTH IN ITALYAND BEYOND. HER REPUTATION AS A RETAIL EXPERT,AND HER KNACK FOR SEEKING OUTTHE BEST EMERGING LABELS, HAVE BROUGHT HER FAME FAR BEYOND HER NATIVE COUNTRY Today, Biffi rules an empire of three shops, managed together with her many grandchildren and partners: the Banner boutique in Via Sant’Andrea, in the very heart of Milan’s fashion quarter; the Biffi boutique in Corso Genova, which opened in Milan in the 60s as the first of the chain; and Biffi Bergamo. All three have long been style destinations for customers who want smart, tasteful clothes, customers who are looking for more than appearances and who recognise and appreciate handmade quality. How did your passion for being a buyer begin? It has grown over a long period, and continues to do so. I always follow my instincts. Luckily I have been able to kindle this passion in my staff too. What sets your shops apart? Probably a pronounced individuality and a commitment to our own taste. The rest comes down to careful selection, polite and friendly staff, quality service, and advising skills. Where do you look for your collections? We never let a single spark of inspiration die out when we’re looking for collections. Once we’ve fallen in love with a certain collection, we always make a sensible assessment of how well it is going to sell, and pay particular attention to quality. INTERVIEW: Michela Zio 86

B U Y E R BIFFI, BERGAMO BANNER, MILAN Many of your customers come from abroad. How do you manage to maintain your international spirit, which has contributed to making Biffi boutiques such a success? Being international is really one of our key features. I guess it worked out this way, above all, because we seek out collections not only in Italy but also in the showrooms of Paris, London, New York, and in other countries where we come across beautiful, quality items that we feel are perfect for us. Is there a Biffi style? The windows of our shops definitely reflect Milan\'s general style: an exquisitely elegant city, never ostentatious, always quietly confident. What do you think about the impact of e-commerce and internet in general? Today getting to grips with the internet is just indispensible if you want to keep up with the times and stay informed. The web is a wonderful tool for customers to access the whole range of goods easily and quickly, and it allows us to work more effectively. A company like ours can really benefit from e-commerce, especially if the boutique is already well recognised and has become a brand in its own right. I am sure, however, that online sales will never, ever supplant offline shopping in a boutique, because when you look things over, touch them, try them on, look at yourself in the mirror in a cosy environment, and ask an expert for advice, it makes for a completely unique experience. BIFFI, MILAN 87

B U Y E R 88 THE DAYS WHEN THERE WERE ONLY FOUR FASHION WEEKS ARE ATHING OF THE PAST.TODAY, IT’S NOT JUST MILAN, PARIS, NEW YORK AND LONDON THATARE GETTING THE FASHION CROWD TALKING. MANY OTHER CITIES SUCH AS BERLIN,TOKYO, SEOULAND SYDNEYARE INCREASINGLY BECOMING FULL-FLEDGED PARTICI- PANTS IN THE FASHION CALENDAR.THE LIST OF EMERGING FASHION CAPITALS IS CONSTANTLY INCREASING. BUT HOW CAN BUYERS MANAGE TO ATTEND ALLTHE PRESENTATIONS AND SHOWS,WHICH TAKE PLACE TWICE OR EVEN FOUR TIMES AYEAR? There are many factors involved in this shift of emphasis in the world of fashion. In the modern market, young designers have assumed the key role. The absolute power of big brands is a thing of the past, and buyers are now looking for a product which, in the first place, expresses its creator\'s vision, individuality and authenticity. Even fashion houses with a worldwide reputation often choose to source creative directors from young designers who are able to offer a fresh perspective on the aesthetics of the brand. New names are emerging all over the world – from Copenhagen and St. Petersburg to Tbilisi and Hong Kong. The younger generation, who are the future of the industry and comprise a significant percentage of fashion professionals, has encountered difficulties associated with life in capital cities. Saturation of the market and high prices are pushing designers towards the development of other territories, which can offer both a more economical and a more relaxed lifestyle. Thanks to the internet, you can now work from home without the need for daily meetings in person. The fashion industry is expanding its horizons and is bringing people together, wherever they are in the world. Online shops, live broadcasting of fashion shows, social networks… and soon there will undoubtedly be positive steps for us in the field of virtual reality. But returning to the subject of fashion buyers, the following questions immediately arise: how has the internet BUYERS IN THE GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY

89 facilitated their work, and what has been undertaken in order to include buyers in the growing fashion industry increasingly dispersed around the world? The Via Del Buyer platform has been created based on the needs of buyers striving to work effectively in the modern market. The main function of this platform is to enable buyers to discover new brands and place orders from the comfort of their home or office. ‘All the existing B2B platforms are designed to meet the needs of brands, and they have no interest in the buyers\' needs. We have carefully selected the most interesting and progressive collections of the premium segment across the globe in order to help buyers embrace the global fashion market. Today there are a lot of young designers, and it is impossible for a buyer or boutique owner to independently analyse the whole range, attend all the exhibitions and examine all the internet resources. A buyer also has to be sure that the new brand will be able to produce high-quality collections, deliver on time and promote itself in the international market. We explore these and other aspects while facilitating initial selection and providing buyers with all the necessary information about the brand, including a list of retailers, high- resolution photos of collections, publications in the press and social networks,’ explains Lior Susana, co-founder of Via Del Buyer. The list of the selected brands is accompanied by useful content such as trend reports, the advice of experts and buyers, interviews with designers, as well as other articles that will allow the buyer to stay completely up to date with what is taking place in the market. The use of the platform is totally free of charge for buyers, including placing orders. The website is available in English, Russian and Chinese. www.viadelbuyer.com

B U Y E R PHOTO: courtesy of Project Line SMART RETAIL AREAS WHAT SHOULD YOUR SHOP LOOK LIKE? HOW CAN YOU MAKE ITATTRACTIVE TO YOUR TARGETAUDIENCE? WHERE SHOULD YOU PLACE KEY ITEMS WHILE ALSO ATTENDING TO THE LITTLE THINGS? WHAT DETAILS WILL HELP KEEP CUSTOMERS IN THE SHOP FOR AS LONG AS POSSIBLE? WE FOUND OUTTHE ANSWERS FROM YEKATERINA AGATOVA, DEPUTY CEO OF PROJECT LINE Helping your shop flourish takes more than deciding on your merchandise and finding reliable suppliers and a good location. There are no little details in retail; even the colour of the walls might have an influence. For market players, this is good news and bad news. The biggest challenge is you have to tackle every issue promptly, and ignoring one or two ‘little things’ may cost you a significant portion of the profit. However, to make things easier, there is a whole body of ready- made advice, tested by many years of experience and confirmed by research into customer bevahiour. Once the customers are in and shopping, it’s hard to correct any errors in the retail area layout that you could have avoided back at the design stage. So what factors need to be considered well in advance? The shop’s conceptual solution: in other words its design, as well as the zoning of the selling space, which will also largely determine architectural solutions. RALPH LAUREN 90

B U Y E R B U Y E R FILLING YOUR STORE WITH MERCHANDISE,THE AMOUNT OF EMPTY SPACE, THE MATERIALS,THE NUMBER OF FITTING ROOMS,THE CHECKOUTAREA PLACEMENT,THE LIGHTING,THE SEATING AREAS – YOU HAVE TO TAKE ALL OF THESE ASPECTS INTO ACCOUNT CONCEPTUAL SOLUTION Inexperienced retailers may think that choosing a design solution for their future shop is not a major factor in the commercial success of their business. However, that is not entirely true. The competition in the market is stiff, so in order to sell efficiently, you want customers to choose your shop from among many others. Filling your store with merchandise, the amount of empty space, the materials, the number of fitting rooms, the checkout area placement, the lighting, the seating areas – you have to take all of these aspects into account. Customers who aren’t looking to spend much will do fine without sofas to sit on, a quality finish to the interior, or personalised service. On the other hand, the well-off customer who is not con- cerned about the amount on their receipt would prefer to shop in a cosy, almost intimate environment, to be accompanied by a personal consultant, and to take breaks sitting on comfortable sofas in between trying things on. To start with, you have to answer the million dollar question: What category does your shop belong to, mass market, premium, or luxury? For example, choos- ing a conceptual solution for a premium-level shop may be the most difficult part. The challenge for the retailer is to guess what will attract customers and what will put them off. As to the finish, you should choose quality mate- rials that are unobtrusive. A couple of interesting design- er items, a cosy waiting area, and comfortable lighting will not put off thrifty customers or repel experienced affluent shoppers. Let me also mention some of the mistakes that owners of commercial premises make at the design stage. First, do not try to fit all your ideas into one shop. You will overload the concept and the space will become tiresome. Second, do not present puzzles to your customer in your quest to be fashionable and special. Your shop may be the tenth or twentieth on their shopping tour, and they will not have the motivation to solve all your riddles. Your shop’s concept should be simple and clear, so that they can easily and quickly find the items they need. ZONING YOUR SELLING SPACE Zoning a selling space is di- rectly related to and depend- ent on the particular features of your merchandise. In fact, it includes more that just placing merchandise in certain areas. HUGO BOSS LEE 91

B U Y E R B U Y E R LANCEL Allocating zones begins almost as early as the concept of the shop. While you\'re concentrating on the merchandise that you intend to delight your customers with, you must also listen clearly to your architect\'s thoughts. What they need from you is clear descriptions of items by quantity and price category, as well as the groups of items that you’re hop- ing to sell. Of course, it largely depends on the space, but there are some basic zoning rules that have proven effective. Rule 1: The hot zone 90% of the customers behave in the same way: They come in, turn right, and proceed anticlockwise. That is where you should place the most attractive items, on the right side of the sales area. You have to capture your customer’s attention instantly, or they will leave the shop, not finding anything of interest. An exception to this is when the space has an unusual layout, for example if there is a large pillar or column to the right of the entrance, or if the passage to the right is obstructed in some way. Then you would draw upon your customer experience or that of your colleagues, and look for alternative solutions. Rule 2: The dead zone While they are coming into the store, customers will not begin to buy things right away but will take four or five steps first, simply getting used to the new environment. These few metres are con- sidered to be the dead zone, where you do not want to place your sales hits. Instead, mirrors or stylish mannequins are perfect there. Rule 3: The basic col- lection The basic collection is made up of everyday items, which go very well with ultra-mod- ern sales hits. The basic prod- ucts are best placed right after the bestsellers and near fitting rooms. It is very likely that the customer will choose to complement a designer item with some unshowy garments. Rule 4: Fitting rooms The fitting rooms are best placed as far from the entrance as possible, so the customer will have travelled through as much of the store as possible and seen all of the merchandise. It also makes sense to put stands with accessories and jewellery near the fitting rooms. This is because many people, having chosen their items, will want to add a final touch to their look. Also, when queuing up for a fitting room, many cus- tomers will kill time browsing these nice little things and end up going for them. Rule 5: Checkout area The basic rule is that the checkout area must be located at about the end of the customer’s trip around your shop, which is to the left of the entrance, or if the shop is over 800m2 in area, in the innermost depth of the sales area. It is important to place the checkout so it is not seen from the entrance. If potential customers see a long queue, this will not make them eager to go in. Neither does a bored cashier at an empty checkout really enliven the scene. Actually, there is one more dead zone, the loss-of- interest zone, behind the checkout, which you can bring to life with discounted items or small bright inexpensive items. Only low prices can cause any interest in this area of the store. Rule 6: The trapeze rule There is a peculiar rhythm to trips around a shop: Every five to seven steps, a customer will slow down and look around. You want to place some lower-height equipment, like tables or racks, at the points where customers will stop. This will get the customers to see as much merchandise as possible at different heights. Of course, no two shops are the same, but the main target here is to walk your customers through the whole sales area and get them to see as much of your merchandise as they can. Skilfully zoning the area will help the retailer achieve that target and keep the customer in long enough for them to decide to buy an item, or even several. Ideally, they will make your shop their favourite and will regularly come in to exchange their money for your items. CLUEV 92

DOWNLOAD THE NEW APP WHITESHOW :WHITESHOW WWW.WHITESHOW.IT :WHITESHOWOFFICIAL F O L L O W U S THE TRADESHOW IS RESERVED ONLY TO FASHION BUSINESS OPERATORS 93

B U Y E R ONE STEP AHEAD THE RUSSIAN BUYERS UNION IS POSSIBLY THE MOST EXCITING NEW ENTERPRISE ON THE FASHION SCENE TODAY AS FAR AS RUSSIAN BUYERS ARE CONCERNED, PROVIDING PRACTICAL SUPPORT AND ADVICE THAT POSITIVELY IMPACTS THE FASHION INDUSTRY. ELENA BUGRANOVA, PRESIDENT OF THE UNION,TALKS TO US ABOUT THE LATEST PROJECTS AND LETS US IN ON PLANS FOR THE FUTURE The Russian Buyers Union works with a variety of boutiques in the middle and high-end segments of the fashion market. How efficient is it to work in different market segments simultaneously? We are indeed trying to monitor all the fashion market segments, as well as keeping in touch with huge numbers of buyers, all while locating and troubleshooting any problems that arise. We see this as a strength. The union works with both international and Russian tradeshows that target boutiques of all different levels, including CPM, MICAM, White, Tranoi and others. This means we are able to offer our buyers the exciting opportunities that these organisations provide, guide them in large orders, even send them on free business trips. Fashion manufacturing companies that want to enter the Russian market are already clamouring for our attention, as having an extended audience makes us a great link between buyers and labels. How exactly do you help buyers to find the collections they want? We have a whole host of projects. For example, we’ve created temporary showrooms during the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia, and in the Marriott Hotel, to introduce buyers to important designers. We assist retailers with specific needs and advise them on how to select brands, both in Russia and abroad. We are also partners with a new international online platform, Via Del Buyer, which helps buyers find the best and most brilliant designers on the market. The platform lets you order online, which is great news as new brands are emerging every season and a fashion buyer only has limited time for business trips. We expect Via Del Buyer to make their workflow simpler and more effective. What other projects are you developing to help buyers in the high fashion segment? Since founding the union we have been thinking about some kind of a quality mark for Russian retailers, which would be given to the most renowned boutiques. The profession of a buyer is a demanding one, and everybody – both within the industry as well as the customers – needs to know it if a shop owner adheres to the highest standards. So the union is implementing the Best Luxury Store project, which would become an attraction for the most influential Russian buyers and a platform for exchanging ideas and experience in the Russian fashion business.The upcoming book ‘Russia’s top 100. Best luxury store 2016’ has been conceived as a part of this project. What is the buyer’s role in the contemporary fashion market? A buyer must be an all-round professional.Those in this walk of life must have extensive knowledge, a reliable gut feeling and an acute business sense.The buyer\'s task is to find attractive high quality collections and beautifully made garments that are just right for their city, and to help people express themselves and keep up with the latest trends. Sure, some brands operate only through direct contacts with clients via single-brand or online shops. But since there’s a huge number of talented designers out there, the end customer needs an expert to guide him or her. On the other hand, connecting with boutiques has helped many fashion houses keep growing, opening up a huge global audience of clients. 94

‘ R U S S I A ’ S T O P 1 0 0 . B E S T L U X U R Y S T O R E 2 0 16 ’ B O O K P R E S E N T A T I O N B U S I N E S S F O R U M W I T H A C C L A I M E D I N D U S T R Y E X P E R T S F O R B U Y E R S C E R E M O N Y A W A R D I N G R U S S I A ’ S T O P 1 0 0 S T O R E S G A L A D I N N E R W I T H P E R F O R M A N C E S B Y F A M O U S S I N G E R S F A S H I O N S H O W S O F R U S S I A N A N D I N T E R N A T I O N A L B R A N D S M O S C O W N O V E M B E R 2 0 1 6 M O R E I N F O R M A T I O N : I N F O @ B U Y E R S U N I O N . R U W W W . B U Y E R S U N I O N . R U B E S T L U X U R Y S T O R E A W A R D S

B U Y E R 96 GOING GLOBAL JACOPO TONELLI, MASTERMIND BEHIND ITALY\'S PRESTIGIOUS MULTI-BRAND BOUTIQUE L\'INDE LE PALAIS, TALKS ABOUT TAKING THE BRAND ONLINE One of Italy’s most acclaimed and prestigious multi-brand boutiques, L’Inde Le Palais was opened in Bologna in 2001. Men’s and women’s clothing lines each inhabit their own beautiful historic building, located just 100 metres apart in the heart of the city.The stores have a shared shop floor area of 1600m2 and feature collections from world-famous brands like Balmain, Giuseppe Zanotti, Marni, Valentino, Gucci, Givenchy, and Céline, as well as emerging labels including Vetements, OFF-WHITE, Jacquemus,The Row, Benedetta Bruzziches and Coliac. In 2008 the boutique’s owner, renowned Italian buyer Jacopo Tonelli, launched the online shopping site www. lindelepalais.com. Here’s how he brought his fashion empire online. How important is searching for new designers for you, and how do you select them? The search for new names has always been of particular importance to us. We believe in young talent, and we love watching designers grow within our project. We look for creative designers with an unconventional vision of fashion and whose collections are a good fit for the style of L\'Inde Le Palais. How do you define your key audience, and how do you intend to expand it? We have a very diverse clientèle – from teenagers to successful professionals, from tourists to locals. Our upcoming plans include introducing a children\'s line, as well as creating sections for vintage and design items.This, of course, will significantly expand the range of customers. How do you communicate with customers? Communication takes place on a daily basis – through Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest,

B U Y E R 97 Polyvore, through our customer care service, as well as with the help of forums. Our marketing department applies a very rigorous approach to its work, including its newsletter, which is created based on preferences of each individual customer.When writing editorials to be published in social networks, we always do our best to convey the philosophy of our brand and its core values as accurately as possible. What role do editorials play in communication with customers? We act as fashion experts for the Bologna public. Our events dedicated to fashion, as well as articles, interviews and reports help our customers stay posted on all the latest trends and feel involved in events. How do you select staff for your online boutique? First of all, all our staff love fashion and want to develop their skills in this area. Passion for their work should be combined with a high level of professionalism and the ability to work in a team – then the company will succeed. What changes has the e-commerce market undergone lately, and how do you manage to keep abreast of the times? The main challenge in this sector is the fact that everything here is constantly changing and developing.Therefore, in order to stay competitive, it is not enough just to offer the customer an excellent selection of goods.You also need to ensure efficient performance of customer care and the delivery department. Have you noticed increases in purchases made from a mobile phone? In your opinion, how is customer behaviour going to change in the immediate future? Yes, most of our orders are now placed from mobile devices.The number of customers making purchases with the help of a smartphone will, undoubtedly, continue to grow, so we are now working to make this type of shopping even more convenient. JACOPO TONELLI

B U Y E R LOST ONLINE THERE’S NO DOUBT TODAY THAT THE INTERNET OFFERS MANY EXCITING OPPORTUNITIES FOR FASHION RETAIL, AND THAT WE SHOULD TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF THEM. BUT DESPITE THESE BENEFITS, IT STILL PAYS TO BE CAUTIOUS Statistically, 1.3bn consumers buy things online today, while 2.8bn use the web to find information. In fact, 7% of the global goods turnover happens online. In Europe, 296m people shop online, with a total of 516m users, and 8% of goods in Europe are sold there. Embracing clothes, footwear and accessories, the fashion industry works as the engine of the digital revolution in retail. No one could even have predicted this at the dawn of the ecommerce era. In the first quarter of 2016 alone, the number of visits to websites selling fashion items globally increased by 19%, while the number of orders grew by 24%. The above data is from a study presented at a conference held in early July at the Polytechnic University of Milan: Online in Fashion: The Trend-Making Channel. ‘The clothes segment is among the most dynamic of the Italian B2C ecommerce market. This can be seen in the speed of growth, which exceeds overall ecommerce averages, in the constantly changing range of goods offered for sale, and also in a stronger drive for innovation,’ says Alessandro Perego, scientific director of the Digital Innovation Observatories at the Polytechnic University of Milan. ‘In the past five years, the clothes segment has grown at an average annual rate of about 30%, twice as high as the ecommerce average, which is about 15%.’ SPINNAKER BOUTIQUE, SANREMO TEXT: Marta Topolskaya 98

B U Y E R Today, you do not even need to work out these figures to be confident that if you want to survive in the market, you have to sell online and to use the internet, social media, and digital technologies widely. Moreover, the challenging situation that has emerged in traditional retail becomes the push that drives many multibrand shops towards the inevitable move. However, you have to do much more today than merely set up a website. You need to be properly positioned on major online platforms, from search engines like Google to social media like Facebook. This is something you cannot do without, as these are the main channels for the overwhelming information flow the web facilitates today. So what do the owners of fashion boutiques do in order to keep up with the times, while also optimising their investments and getting the highest possible return on them? This is a question we asked some of the major players in the European fashion market. Giuseppe Giglio, co-owner of Giglio, a boutique network in Palermo, is one of the first retailers who began working online at a time when even the internet was not too widespread yet. GIUSEPPE GIGLIO STATISTICALLY, 1.3BN CONSUMERS BUYTHINGS ONLINE TODAY, WHILE 2.8BN USE THE WEB TO FIND INFORMATION. IN FACT, 7% OF THE GLOBAL GOODS TURNOVER HAPPENS ONLINE. IN EUROPE, 296M PEOPLE SHOP ONLINE,WITH ATOTAL OF 516M USERS,AND 8% OF GOODS IN EUROPE ARE SOLD THERE ‘We launched our first ecommerce website in April 1996, 20 years ago,’ Giglio told our magazine. ‘In ‘96, Google did not even exist, and everyone was using Altavista. There was no Amazon. This meant that when we set ourselves the challenge to develop ecommerce without the familiar platforms we use today, we were pioneers in a sense. That determined our choice. We have been working to improve our own platform through all these years, while always managing processes internally.’ Giuseppe, son of Michele Giglio, owner of the company at the time, had just finished his postgraduate studies at the prestigious University of Bocconi and was an avid admirer of the burgeoning internet when the idea occurred to him. He was able to discern the prospects the web could offer a sales company, as the internet was already starting to take off by 1996 and was definitely going to grow exponentially. ‘We have kept to this route ever since,’ Guiseppe continues, ‘and I believe now that this has given us a definite advantage over joint platforms. Why? It’s simple: our biggest asset is our customers. As it is now, my customers are mine. Now, if you use a third-party platform, all of your customers are theirs. If it closes down one day, then my counterpart who has been working through it will have nothing left! Of course, my way is much more expensive and complicated, and it GIGLIO BOUTIQUE, PALERMO 99

B U Y E R B U Y E R takes specialists and proper organising. Today, we employ 30 specialists in internet technologies. This is a real business, not just selling something online. We can say we have been growing together with the web itself and experimenting. Then we realised that it was the way to go, and gradually built up our platform, which has grown alongside us. Today, it demonstrates good results in sales and turnover.’ The company has encountered a whole array of challenges, not only technical and financial but also psychological. The point is, it is also a matter of human resources, time, and painstaking work. Companies often go online at a time when generations change in their management. Today, Giuseppe’s father is 75, and had he not had his two sons around, he would never have made the change. According to Giuseppe Giglio, those who have been retailing since 70s or 80s and would like to start selling online today need to be able to make sufficient investments which will not give an immediate return. This is why there has to be a good drive behind it, and most importantly, people in the company to rely on to manage the process. ‘Otherwise, it is better to follow my colleagues who sell through large platforms. This is pure business: I work with the platform, I do nothing but sales. I do not construct anything. I set short- term goals, accomplish a sales volume at the end of a month or a season, and that’s it!’ However, many cannot afford to work to this pattern. ‘Offline retailers who decide to go online for the first time ever should take great care when positioning themselves on the web, which is not easy at all,’ says Bruno Decker, a participant of the conference and CEO of Saldiprivati. com, an online shop. ‘You have to have an effective website, use state-of-the- art technologies, and be prepared for major expenses with marketing and a warehouse. To begin with, it might make better sense to use the major online trading platforms that are already there.’ Today, the biggest players in the international fashion market are Zalando, Vente-privee, Farfetch, YOOX, Amazon, Asos, Sarenza, AliExpress, and Alibaba. A successful example of this business model is Spinnaker, a boutique network spanning across Portofino, Sanremo, Alassio, and Santa Margherita. Its owner Claudio Betti is also vice president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers for digital technologies. He told us: “A retailer launching online sales should begin with creating software capable of managing this whole intricate process. You won’t get anywhere if you don’t lay the foundation for your entire ecommerce building to rest upon. It will flop before it even starts. This is true even if your project, like my company, involves using large international platforms.’ Admittedly, even then things are not straightforward. For instance, about three or four years ago the platforms would support retailers by providing a data upload interface. However, that greatly limited the retailer as they had to manually upload the data. The next stage was to implement a technology capable of communicating with the platform in real time and thus remain in sync with it. In other words, as soon as goods arrive at the boutique, they get digitally labelled and entered into the database, which feeds information to the platform. This is also done manually, and since the data on the goods or sales come in with a delay, it disrupts the whole operation of the platform. Your entire work is reduced to nothing, and your total results only amount to 20% of your potential results. ‘The solution,’ Claudio Betti believes, ‘is to really carefully think through the possibilities, purposes, and directions of development of your boutique before you even start. If it is not to sell very many items and the internet is only to play a supporting role, then you will probably be fine with some simple software where manually uploading data is enough. However, if your company is shooting higher and you want to grow, these little technological issues may stall further development. Therefore, first of all you need to implement a management system that can digitise 100

B U Y E R all goods promptly and efficiently. Do not forget about a photostudio, which is the cornerstone of doing business online. Obviously, the shots of your goods must be of high quality and also comply with the standards of the platforms you are going to rely on. In short, this process is far from easy and entails a reorganisation of all the company’s operations. Naturally, you will need substantial investments. Besides the changes to be made in managing your boutique, keep in mind that the platforms charge really high commission fees. Thus, you should go for the highest possible payoff, otherwise all your efforts will be wasted.’ Of course, it is vital to choose the right partner if you are going to achieve success through this model. According to Claudio Betti, Farfetch is the most efficient platform in the fashion segment today. This online shop does not just feature over 400 luxury boutiques from around the world, but is also going offline itself. It has already acquired several shops, including the historic Browns in London, and uses them to make purchases directly from labels and then sell their goods online. However, to sell through Farfetch, it is vital to come up with a diverse offering. The more boutiques are involved in the system, the lower the business risk. In particular, having extensive stock is important. Besides, search engines rankings favour websites and platforms with a wide range of goods. Because there are over 400 boutiques working with Farfetch today, it can boast a diversity of range unrivalled by anything else in the world. ‘As for our boutique network,’ Betti adds, ‘we sell online through major platforms but we do not consider it necessary to set up our own website for online sales. The website we have now works well and is making progress, and we are quite content with it. It is linked to a database and an operating system that provide access to platforms, to photostudios, etc. Marketing-wise though, an extra boost would do it good. At present, however, we prefer to exercise caution, with the size of our company in mind, as faster development may require sizeable investments that might endanger our whole business.’ Today, using the internet means more than just selling online. Successfully doing business in fashion retail is impossible without active participation on social media. ‘We are not just present there, but we closely monitor what is going on in Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, and other media appropriate to our kind of business on a daily basis,’ Giuseppe Giglio shares. ‘There are employees in our company who do that and nothing else. Platforms like, say, LinkedIn or Twitter are rather foreign to us in their concept. On the other hand, we have our own channels on Facebook and Instagram and actively work there. At first, I would say we were just present there, but today we do much more than that. For example, social media advertising features finely adjustable targeting and so yields a great return. To me, this is an excellent method of promotion. The biggest challenge is to keep up with the times. When you master a new method of doing things, it is already out of date and another comes to take its place. If some new social medium springs up tomorrow and reshuffles all the cards, the rules of the game will change again. Just look at how Facebook has changed in five years! And so has Instagram. Facebook was not worth anything commercially five years ago, but since then they have completely changed the way you interact with your audience.’ Of course, the above is not a complete list of internet pitfalls for a fashion boutique, but hopefully, a solid foundation laid at the beginning will also help you successfully handle the challenges to come! GIGLIO.COM PHOTO STUDIO 101

B U Y E R 102 TEXT: Natalia Melyukh PHOTO: Denis Yesakov WALKING IN MY SHOES THE STORY OF MOSCOW’S MOST FAMOUS CONCEPT STORE AS TOLD BY ITS FOUNDER RODION MAMONTOV Leform turns 19 at the end of the year. How did you first get the idea of setting up a concept store? In 1976 my parents and I returned to Moscow after living in Germany for six years, and it was a real culture shock. My ideas about what was normal really clashed with the Soviet reality. I remember I was at a Young Pioneer camp and we went to a lake. I was wearing red and blue suede shoes with white soles, brought from abroad. So, I took them off and went for a swim, and when I was putting them on again, one shoe fell into the water.And there I was, standing and watching it sink, like the last thread connecting me to my former life.Then they gave me slippers like the other kids had. I hated this new reality. ‘Try walking in my shoes,’ as Depeche Mode once sang. My whole life, I have struggled to find clothes I could feel comfortable in. I wanted to be part of a creative scene; I felt I was the same as other creative people on the inside, but I looked different on the outside, and so I didn’t fit in.Already as a RODION MAMONTOV kid, I had learnt to pick up on external indicators and realised that a person’s look can really be completed with clothes. So I guess I created Leform to help other people like me to overcome this problem. Did your project begin as a lifestyle space right from the start? Yes, it was my attempt to become what I call a ‘betteriser’! From the very beginning, I wanted the project to embody a coherence between outside and inside worlds. It was important for me to create something new, as following an accepted system of beliefs is just not for me.As a child, I used to love arranging Indian toy figures on my shelves. Nowadays this love for design has led me to developing a versatile space that is constantly transforming and living a life of its own. Do you remember the first label you imported into Leform? Dirk Bikkembergs. In the mid 90s I went to Belgium on business and ended up in the city of Ostende, on the North Sea coast. So there I was, walking around the centre, and I see a footwear boutique with the most unbelievable shoes in the window.They’re totally amazing but they cost $500 per pair. I wanted to buy them all – which I managed to do two years down the road! But later, some smart people I know suggested that I should watch out for interesting items at fashion weeks, rather than buy stocks. This is how I first encountered the creative work of Ann Demeulemeester, Raf Simons, Comme des Garçons, and Yohji Yamamoto, whose collections went on to appear in the Leform store.

B U Y E R 103 ’AS A CHILD, I USED TO LOVE ARRANGING INDIAN TOY FIGURES ON MY SHELVES. NOWADAYS THIS LOVE FOR DESIGN HAS LED ME TO DEVELOPING A VERSATILE SPACE THAT IS CONSTANTLYTRANSFORMING AND LIVING A LIFE OF ITS OWN.’ The Fashion Factory School is an educational platform for the fashion business. The project helps specialists throughout both the Russian and the international fashion industry share their experience. It runs a programme of fasci- nating open lectures and intensive courses, and arranges for job placements and collaboration with top companies in the fashion industry. The school’s instructors are all specialists currently working in the Russian and international mar- kets: top managers of major companies, pro- ducers of clothes and accessories, wholesalers and retailers. The project’s database currently includes over 17,000 small and medium-sized businesses. fashionfactoryschool.com You have exclusive rights to sell certain labels. Is there a risk of you starting to rest on your laurels now? Exclusive rights are all well and good, but you still have to work. I would say exclusive rights give you a chance to have a seven- minute break instead of five minutes! Of course, we’re always trying to secure exclusive rights to a label, but this isn’t our ultimate goal. There’s no point to centering your uniqueness around being the sole retailer of certain brands and models, as anyone could do this. Our worth is our expertise: we have the artistic sensitivity and knowhow to complete a person\'s look and help them be more confident. You cannot fake this skill. Have you ever had to choose between good taste and making a profit? Never. Making money by compromising my integrity is not my thing. How do you keep your customers on their toes? We strive to evolve and develop without losing sight of our concept, and to somehow balance what clients understand with what they don’t. For example, recently we gained 25% of our current audience: new customers who are cautiously getting to know us but don\'t always understand us. Our main target here is to find the keys to their hearts, communicating in a particular language with our range of goods and careful merchandising. One talented woman has already done this in Paris, popularising a complex style concept. You know who she is? Colette. (Editor’s Note: Colette Rousseau, founder of the concept store Colette) We’re not trying to copy anyone, but we are trying to accomplish results that are just as impressive. So in three months, we are launching an exciting new project, targeted at a wider audience and independent of our concept store.

B U Y E R OLEG KLIMOV, FOUNDER AND DIRECTOR OF SDG AND THE PUBLISHER OF GLOSSY MAGAZINE BONJOUR, IS WELL KNOWN AS THE MASTERMIND BEHIND MANY HIGH-END BOUTIQUE CHAINS. OLEG TELLS US ABOUT HIS PATH INTO THE BUSINESS AND SHARES SOME SECRETS ABOUT THE INNER WORKINGS OF A DESIGNER\'S TRADE Oleg, how did you end up developing and designing boutiques? Back then you weren’t a professionally trained designer. No, in fact, when I got into design I didn’t even know how to use graphic design software. So it must be that I had a kind of natural bent for the arts. I love beautiful things: smart clothes, sport cars, dramatic scenes in nature, gorgeous women. I was working in the field of retail, shopping and leisure centres in particular, and it was there that I learnt more about Moscow’s shopping centres and built connections with developers and owners.With that experience and competence under my belt I could finally fulfill my long-held ambition, and I started designing retail stores, boutiques and, later, restaurants. So far I have fin- A N E Y E F O R B E A U T Y ished more than 2,500 design projects, and most of which have already been implemented. How do you get the creativity flowing at work? Creative people are kind of cracked. Each has his own way of summoning his muse. Sometimes you have to simulate the situation that will help you to get into the right mood. Since most of my time is devoted to my work, it’s very im- portant for me to have a enjoyable working environment. My co-workers are amazing people. I love them and they love me, too. Sum up your recipe for success for us… Our job is very complex and this is why we specialise, so that each employee does what he or she does best. But the most important thing is that we all enjoy what we are doing. TEXT: Evgeny Antonyuk Raschini and SDG proudly present their new children’s clothing concept boutique, Frugo- letto by Raschini in Novinsky Passage Business and Shopping Centre. The shop boasts a wonderfully quirky interior of smoothly flowing display shelves, with colours that blend into each other and lead the young customer on a magical adventure from entrance to fitting room. The project was completed at SDG’s Mobili facility for the production of non-conventional retail equipment. Style connoisseurs and lovers of old-fashioned elegance will adore this new project by Raschini Fashion House. The soon-to-be-opened high-end boutique Raschini Family in Barvikha’s Dream House shopping centre is another unique project by SDG, designed and developed by the architecture firm SL Project. SDG Mobili’s years of experience and extensive production facilities offer the perfect partnership: one-of-a- kind design and impeccable standards. OLEG KLIMOV SDG X BUYER 104

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B U Y E R S P A C E D U R I N G M I L A N F A S H I O N W E E K 2 1 — 2 6 S E P T E M B E R 2 0 1 6 1 8 . 0 0 — 2 0 . 0 0 D A I L Y Gourmet aperitif by chef Daniele Scanziani Exhibition of accessories by fashion talents Presentation of online platform for buyers Via Del Buyer free for buyers L A R T E , V I A A . M A N Z O N I , 5 , M I L A N ( P I A Z Z A D E L L A S C A L A ) RSVP buyers@viadelbuyer.com I N V I T A T I O N T O B U Y E R S

EVENTS ’ This fashion week was ver y exciting. Young designers are really showing great talent, and there is a fresh feeling in the air. The general mood was somewhat nostalgic, with contemporar y reinterpretations of trends from former decades, like the 70s and 90s.’ R é g i s P e n n e l , L’ E x c e p t i o n P h o t o : c o u r t e s y o f R o b e r t o C a v a l l i p r e s s o f f i c e

B U Y E R MEN\'S FASHION WEEKS: WHAT THE BUYERS THOUGHT EUROPEAN BUYERS TOLD OUR MAGAZINE ABOUT THE SPRING/SUMMER 2017 MENSWEAR COLLECTIONS THAT IMPRESSED THEM MOST Spring/summer 17 HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE THE MOOD ON THE PARIS FASHION WEEK CATWALKS? Régis Pennel, L’Exception, Paris: This fashion week was very exciting. Young designers are really showing great talent, and there is a fresh feeling in the air. The general mood was somewhat nostalgic, with contemporary reinterpretations of retro trends from decades like the 70s and 90s. Tassilo Sandizell, Truffledigger, Germany: In times of uncertainty there’s always a change in cultural mood, and this has carried over onto the catwalk. Cross-dressing is really having its moment right now too, and another common thread is that we’re seeing fashion become more ‘seasonless’ and readily available. Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis, Berlin: I was very pleasantly surprised, because the pre-collections for both men and women shown here have all been absolutely brilliant. WHICH COLLECTIONS YOU WOULD HIGHLIGHT PARTICULARLY? Régis Pennel, L’Exception, Paris: We loved the collection from Ami, one of the hottest names on the Parisian fashion scene right now, as well as those from Kenzo, Etudes and Y/project. Once again they’ve emerged as the coolest kids in the block. T ruffledigger 108

Andrea Dei, Dei & Il Cavallo, Pisa: All the fashion shows were amazing. But the Paul Smith show with its Jamaican influence was a real highlight of the season. Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis, Berlin: I am especially fascinated by the work of the new Lanvin designer, Bouchra Jarrar. The dresses are incredibly beautiful, they have fantastic prints and the collection is so varied and surprising, from exquisitely feminine pieces to androgynous items, all looking great. I was also completely bowled over by the Nina Ricci collection – very feminine as well, and as this look has never really been represented much at my store, I feel this will be a real enrichment to our selection. Tassilo Sandizell, Truffledigger, Germany: Roberto Cavalli, Etro (Milan) and Wales Bonner, John Elliot (London). WHICH TRENDS, IN YOUR OPINION, WILL BE MOST SUCCESSFUL WITH CUSTOMERS? Régis Pennel, L’Exception, Paris: Urban chic will definitely be everywhere on the streets. We’ll see sneakers, hoodies and cool jackets as well as baggy, oversized garments. There’s been a real comeback of youth culture and ‘undergound’ looks. Andrea Dei, Dei & Il Cavallo, Pisa: For the upcoming spring/summer season the spotlight will be on contemporary yet sophisticated pieces influenced by our shared international lifestyles, wherever we’re from. For younger men short-sleeved shirts, printed t-shirts, sweatshirts, oversized Bermuda shorts and sneakers definitely top the list, while a more timeless look can be found in the classic combination of cotton jackets and chinos, light and airy pieces like linen shirts and derby shoes and loafers. Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis, Berlin: I would say that what will really work are the outstanding pieces from the collections. Costumers tend to invest either in basics or really special items and those are particularly personal. I don’t believe in trends, or a general L’Exception silhouette that will be a total hit, because people are so different. Tassilo Sandizell, Truffledigger, Germany: Casual, urban clothes cut generously to embody a chic retro spirit. DID THE RUNWAY BRING ANY SURPRISES THIS SEASON? Régis Pennel, L’Exception, Paris: The runway always brings surprises, but this year you could really feel the creative bar being set so high. You can see it in the collections but also in the scenography and locations of the shows, like the Paris based brand Pigalle that actually staged a wedding for its runway show. 109

B U Y E R Andreas Murkudis Dei & Il Cavallo Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis, Berlin: I was particularly surprised by Dries Van Noten, who brings something new and completely outstanding to the runways every season without fail. I just think this is an incredible achievement. Tassilo Sandizell, Truffledigger, Germany: No surprises as such, considering that there was a drop in the number of men’s fashion shows, although the industry is continuously growing with companies like Burberry and Gucci doing so well in the menswear department. There is a tendency to address the end consumer directly with readily available collections, spending less money on shows. WHICH THREE CATWALK PIECES SHOULD EACH MAN HAVE IN HIS CLOSET FOR NEXT SPRING? Régis Pennel, L’Exception, Paris: Loose tailored pants, a suede jacket and a hint of orange as seen in many shows. Andreas Murkudis, Andreas Murkudis, Berlin: I would say shorts by KOLOR, a bomber jacket by OAMC and a perforated t-shirt by my brother Kostas Murkudis. Tassilo Sandizell, Truffledigger, Germany: We at Truffledigger believe in timeless, essential pieces. So in general terms we’d suggest linen and light wool jackets, trench coats and hoodies. 110

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B U Y E R 112 WOMENS’ FASHION WEEKS DON’T FORGET TO ADD THESE NEW EXCITING DESTINATIONS TO YOUR DIARY. THE FASHION CALENDAR IS MORE INTENSE THAN EVER WITH DESIGNERS’ SHOWS SCHEDULED ALL OVER THE GLOBE Spring/summer 17 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK New York City, USA 8 -15 September 2016 nyfw.com MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK MADRID Madrid, Spain, 16 – 20 September 2016 ifema.es/mercedesbenzfwm_06 ARAB FASHION WEEK Dubai, UAE 6 – 10 October 2016 arabfashionweek.org SHANGHAI FASHION WEEK Shanghai, China 12 – 20 October 2016 shanghaifashionweek.com MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK RUSSIA Moscow, Russia 13 – 17 October 2016 mercedesbenzfashionweek.ru/en TORONTO FASHION WEEK Toronto, Canada 17 – 21 October 2016 toronto-fashionweek.com SEOUL FASHION WEEK Seoul, Korea 17 – 22 October 2016 seoulfashionweek.org TOKYO FASHION WEEK To k y o , J a p a n 17 - 23 O c t o b e r 2 016 j f w. j p/e n CHINA FASHION WEEK Beijing, China 25 - 31 October 2016 english.chinafashionweek.org PARIS FASHION WEEK Paris, France 27 September – 5 October modeaparis.com/en MILAN FASHION WEEK – MILANO MODA DONNA Milan, Italy, 21 – 26 September 2016 milanomodadonna.it/en TBILISI FASHION WEEK Tbilisi, Georgia 19-23 October 2016 tbilisifashionweek.com MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION DAYS KIEV Kiev, Ukraine, 1-4 September 2016 mbkievfashiondays.com UKRAINIAN FASHION WEEK Kiev, Ukraine 12-18 October 2016 fashionweek.ua MOSCOW FASHION WEEK Moscow, Russia 18-23 October 2016 fashionweek.ru G u c c i P a u l & J o e D i s c o v e r e d LONDON FASHION WEEK London, England 16 – 20 September 2016 londonfashionweek.co.uk

M A K I N G I T E A S I E R F O R B U Y E R S T O F I N D N E W L U X U R Y B R A N D S A N D P L A C E O R D E R S O N L I N E T R E N D - S E T T I N G C O L L E C T I O N S , H A N D P I C K E D F O R B U Y E R S Meet some of the most interesting brands from across the planet, carefully curated on one innovative platform. E V E R Y T H I N G Y O U N E E D T O M A K E T H E P E R F E C T C H O I C E Browse through selected brands and see their latest lookbooks, distribution lists, prices, order conditions, social media and press feeds. O R D E R I N G H A S N E V E R B E E N E A S I E R Find the highest quality pictures and full product details, so you know just how each item is going to look and feel before it arrives. Place orders for next season or shop for goods to fill gaps in your store now. Request your free buyer access at viadelbuyer.com

B U Y E R The list includes alternative fashion shows, presentations, private sales, promotional parties for luxury goods, and awards ceremonies to honour prominent designers, photographers, and journalists from Monte Carlo and further afield. All these exclusive events will allow Monte Carlo Fashion Week to help labels become more widely recognised and increase their appeal to clients from around the world, says Irina Gudkova, ambassadress of the Monaco Fashion Chamber and president of IFD. The highlight of the event was the awards ceremony, where Philipp Plein was recognised for his company’s fantastic growth by the Princess Charlene of Monaco herself, to rapturous applause. Philipp, a German designer, owes some of his success to Monte Carlo, where his very first boutique was located. Awards were also given to the Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean for the most ethical collection, and to the photographer Giovanni Gastel for his professional accomplishments. The labels Grinko (Russia), Chapurin (Russia), Alessandro Angelozzi (Italy), Beach & Cashmere Monaco (Monaco) and others presented their collections over several days of shows, held in the luxurious premises of the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco. Promising graduates of the Paris and Milan-based Marangoni Institute also premiered their creations, including Fleur Bougon, Marta Rios, Clara Bizzoca, and Tiffany Arystaghes. Sicilian designers also enjoyed a moment in the spotlight, as Art Nobless, a cultural association promoting Sicilian brands, had chosen nine labels to participate in the fashion week: Tina Arena, Mariella Di Miceli, Filly Cusenza, Rosalia Adelaide Aiello, Davide THE NEW NAMES IN MONTE CARLO THE FOURTH MONTE CARLO FASHION WEEK TOOK PLACE IN JUNE AND WAS A RESOUNDING SUCCESS. THE SHOW FIRMLY CEMENTED ITS REPUTATION AS AN ORGANISER OF HIGH-LEVEL INTERNATIONAL EVENTS Leonardo, Sebastiano Tramontana & Valentina Bua di Gattacci, Amalia Peditto, Silvia Campione, and Barbara La Lia. ‘Our immediate plans include strengthening our reputation as a research lab for young, innovative and as-yet-unknown talents and establishing connections with the best fashion schools of Milan, Paris, London, New York, Antwerp, and Tokyo,’ Irina Gudkova told our magazine. ‘We’re also always trying to forge new collaborations with the most successful fashion agents and distributors from around the world, who seek out and develop new labels and could help in selecting the designers and brands participating in the Monte Carlo Fashion Week.’ 114

PОССИЯ, MOCКВА, ЦВК «Экспоцентр» | Expocentre Fairgrounds, MOSCOW, RUSSIA 03 06 ОКТЯБРЯ OCTOBER 2016 46-Я MЕЖДУНАРОДНАЯ ВЫСТАВКА OБУВИ И ГOТOВЫX ИЗДЕЛИЙ ИЗ КОЖИ 46th INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR SHOES AND LEATHER PRODUCTS blickdesign.it design meets business Opгaнизаторы | Organized by Дляполучениядополнительнойинформацииобращаться| Formoreinformationpleasecontact www.obuv-expo.ru Bologna,Italy e-mail:fairsystem@fairsystem.it Tел.|Phone:+39 051 282848 Mocква,Pоссия e-mail:centr@expocentr.ru Tел.|Phone: +7 499-795-37-99 При поддержке | Supported by Итальянскоеучастиеприофициальнойподдержке| Italianparticipationo ciallysupportedby ЦВК «Экспоцентр»

B U Y E R CHECK ANY BUYER’S CALENDAR AND YOU’LL SEE THE SAME DATES RINGED IN RED. GET THE MOST OUT OF THE TRADE SHOWS WITH THIS HANDY GUIDE TO FINDING NEW COLLECTIONS OF CLOTHES, FOOTWEAR, AND ACCESSORIES FROM AROUND THE WORLD, ENRICHING YOUR SHOP’S RANGE WITH NEW LABELS, AND PLACING ORDERS FOR NEXT SEASON EXHIBITION CALENDAR 31 AUGUST – 3 SEPTEMBER 2016 MOSCOW COLLECTION PREMIÈRE MOSCOW (CPM) One of Eastern Europe and Russia’s leading fashion exhibitions features international brands of clothing, accessories, and underwear targeted at the Russian market. Over 110 brands from 20 countries are participating this season. Expocentre Central Exhibition Complex: 14, Krasnopresnenskaya nab. cpm-moscow.ru September 2016 - February 2017 2–5 SEPTEMBER 2016 PARIS PREMIÈRE CLASSE Première Classe has been one of the most important and prestigious venues for accessories brands for 25 years now. There will be about 900 collections of costume jewellery, footwear, and leather items on display. Paris Porte de Versailles, 1 P.ce de la Porte de Versailles premiere-classe.com 2–5 SEPTEMBER 2016 PARIS WHO\'S NEXT This clothing trade show takes place in alliance with and in the same venue as Première Classe. This event will feature over 700 designers of women\'s clothes, both from France and further afield. Paris Porte de Versailles, 1 P.ce de la Porte de Versailles whosnext.com 3–6 SEPTEMBER 2016 MILAN THE MICAM The largest trade show for the footwear industry celebrates its 82nd season this year, featuring both Italian producers and brands from other countries, as is tradition. Don’t miss the fashion shows and seminars if you want an insider’s view of the industry’s trends and innovations. Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione, 28 micamonline.com 3–6 SEPTEMBER 2016 MILAN MIPEL MICAM’s exhibition space will be shared by MIPEL, a major exhibition of bags and accessories with an emphasis on Italian brands. Pay special attention to the section dedicated to emerging designers. Rho Fiera Milano, Strada Statale del Sempione, 28 mipel.com 16–20 SEPTEMBER 2016 LONDON LONDON FASHION WEEK DESIGNER SHOWROOMS Brewer Street Car Park is a major fashion venue, arranged as part of the London Fashion Week and located in the very centre of the city. See the new spring/autumn collections of clothes and accessories from both well-known brands and talented emerging designers. Brewer Street Car Park, Brewer Street, London W1F 0LA londonfashionweek.co.uk 116

B U Y E R 17–19 SEPTEMBER 2016 NEW YORK CAPSULE WOMEN\'S; CAPSULE ACCESSORIES Featuring modern brands, the Capsule exhibition will be particularly interesting to owners of upmarket youth boutiques. New sections will welcome buyers at this event: Axis, focused on Active Lifestyle brands, and Beauty Lab, featuring independent beauty brands. Pier 94, 711 12th Avenue capsuleshow.com 17–19 SEPTEMBER 2016 NEW YORK TRANOÏ WOMEN\'S & PARFUMS Tranoï is the most prestigious European venue for high positioned brands. If you are not attending in Paris, be sure to do so in New York. The exhibition also offers a wide selection of perfumes, which will be of special interest to concept stores. The Tunnel, 269 11th Ave tranoi.com 17–19 SEPTEMBER 2016 NEW YORK WOMAN This young exhibition is launching its seventh season, and although it’s not the key show of the fashion week, its unique selection and taste have already made it the go-to venue for adventurous buyers seeking out stylish youth brands. 775 Washington St man-woman.co 18–20 SEPTEMBER 2016 NEW YORK COTERIE A leading exhibition of women’s clothes and accessories for fashion industry professionals. Here buyers can discover the latest trends and get to know the talented designers of today. Coterie takes place twice a year, in spring and autumn. The Javits Center, 11th Ave at 37th St enkshows.com/coterie/ 24–26 SEPTEMBER 2016 MILAN WHITE SHOW Milan’s main trade show, featuring clothing from emerging and promising designers, grows and gains renown with every event. For the third time, White will include the Time awards ceremony to honour budding designers. Via Tortona, 27 – 35 – 54 whiteshow.it 117

B U Y E R 24–26 SEPTEMBER 2016 MILAN SUPER The eighth edition of SUPER, a Pitti Immagine project devoted to women’s prêt-à-porter and accessories, welcomes buyers in a new venue and presents a new format. This year fair moves to the city centre and focuses on emergent designers. Organisers say the show will also offer a more curated selection of brands which will bring the exhibition to a new level. The Mall, Porta Nuova Varesine, Piazza Lina Bo Bardi pittimmagine.com/corporate/fairs/ super.html 30 SEPTEMBER – 3 OCTOBER 2016 PARIS TRANOÏ WOMEN\'S & PARFUMS Europe’s largest and most attended fashion design exhibition. Its quality brand selection has rightfully earned it worldwide success. The display is spread over three venues across Paris. We recommend you allow at least two to three days to attend. 1. Palais de la Bourse, 2. Carrousel du Louvre, 3. Cité de la Mode e du Design tranoi.com 30 SEPTEMBER – 3 OCTOBER 2016 PARIS WOMAN Woman Paris focuses on independent designers and emerging brands from a number of countries. You will find stylish and unusual mid and upper-mid level collections here. 25 Rue Yves Toudic man-woman.co 30 SEPTEMBER – 3 OCTOBER 2016 PREMIÈRE CLASSE PREMIERE CLASSE Revolving around footwear and accessories, this exhibition will be of most interest to buyers seeking to meet producers of footwear, bags, and quality costume jewellery and place orders. Jardin des Tuileries, Terrasse des Feuillants premiere-classe.com 30 SEPTEMBER – 3 OCTOBER 2016 PARIS VENDÔME LUXURY This small-scale exhibition takes place in two venues in central Paris, specialising in evening dresses of the high price segment. It also features luxury women’s labels, accessories, and jewellery. 1. Hotel d’Evreux 2. Le Meurice vendomeluxury-paris.com 11–13 OCTOBER 2016 SHANGHAI CHIC China’s largest fashion exhibition, featuring many Asian brands as well as some international producers, and also including business forums and workshops. National Exhibition and Convention Centre chiconline.com.cn 118

B U Y E R PОССИЯ, MOCКВА, ЦВК «Экспоцентр» | Expocentre Fairgrounds, MOSCOW, RUSSIA 03 06 ОКТЯБРЯ OCTOBER 2016 46-Я MЕЖДУНАРОДНАЯ ВЫСТАВКА OБУВИ И ГOТOВЫX ИЗДЕЛИЙ ИЗ КОЖИ 46th INTERNATIONAL EXHIBITION FOR SHOES AND LEATHER PRODUCTS blickdesign.it design meets business Opгaнизаторы | Organized by Дляполучениядополнительнойинформацииобращаться| Formoreinformationpleasecontact www.obuv-expo.ru Bologna,Italy e-mail:fairsystem@fairsystem.it Tел.|Phone:+39 051 282848 Mocква,Pоссия e-mail:centr@expocentr.ru Tел.|Phone: +7 499-795-37-99 При поддержке | Supported by Итальянскоеучастиеприофициальнойподдержке| Italianparticipationo ciallysupportedby ЦВК «Экспоцентр» 3–6 OCTOBER 2016 MOSCOW OBUV. MIR KOZHI This dedicated footwear and accessories exhibition leads the market in Russia and the former Soviet states. Annually attended by about 200 producers from various countries, it features a particularly broad range of Italian mid and upper level brands. Expocentre Central Exhibition Complex obuv-expo.ru 17–18 OCTOBER 2016 LOS ANGELES CAPSULE LA WOMEN\'S The international Capsule exhibition opens its doors in Los Angeles for the first time. Alongside international and US brands, there will be an extensive display of Californian clothing designers. California Market Centre, 110 E 9th St capsuleshow.com 18–20 OCTOBER 2016 SEOUL FASHIONKODE Held biannually in Seoul, Fashion KODE’s main purpose is to foster the fashion industry in Korea. If you’re seeking out new Korean brands for your shop, make sure to mark this on your calendar. 72, Jangchungdan-ro, Jung-gu fashionkode.com/en/ 17–19 OCTOBER 2016 LOS ANGELES COEUR Held in the same venue as Capsule, the exhibition specialises in accessories, gifts, household items, beauty and leisure products from American and other brands. It will be of particular interest to concept stores. California Market Centre, 110 E 9th St, Penthouse level coeurshow.com 10–13 JANUARY 2017 FLORENCE PITTI IMMAGINE UOMO 91 Pitti Uomo, the most important men’s fashion platform, is more than just a trade show, featuring over 1,000 brands of both classic and modern youth clothing and accessories. The fashion shows and events will once again be held in Florence. Fortezza Da Basso, Viale Filippo Strozzi, 1 pittimmagine.com 14–16 JANUARY 2017 MILAN WHITE SHOW: WOMEN’S PRECOLLECTIONS + MENSWEAR The January White show will feature both fall/winter 2017 men\'s collections and women’s pre-collections for the new season. Get acquainted with both Italian and other mid-upper and upper level brands. Via Tortona, 27 – 54 whiteshow.it 1–3 FEBRUARY 2017 COPENHAGEN CIFF The largest and most innovative fashion fair in Northern Europe was established in 1993 and has been growing ever since. As usual it will feature designers of men’s and women’s clothes. Centre Boulevard, 5 ciff.dk DOWNLOAD THE NEW APP WHITESHOW :WHITESHOW WWW.WHITESHOW.IT :WHITESHOWOFFICIAL F O L L O W U S THE TRADESHOW IS RESERVED ONLY TO FASHION BUSINESS OPERATORS 119

B U Y E R FOUR TIMES AYEAR DURING PARIS FASHION WEEK,AND TWICE AYEAR DURING NEW YORK MARKET WEEK, THE TRANOÏ FASHION TRADE SHOW TAKES CENTRE STAGE.TRANOÏ,WHICH MEANS ‘BETWEEN US’ IN ITALIAN, IS AN ARTISTIC PLATFORM THAT GATHERS AND CURATES THE VERY BEST OF AVANT-GARDE AND PROGRESSIVE DESIGNERS AS WELLAS CONTEMPORARY LEADING BRANDS TRANOÏ: FROM NEW YORK TO PARIS Held in beautiful, prestigious venues, the show joins the dots between creativity and business. It features artistic installations, runway shows and parties, and with its inventive presentation and the diversity of designers featured it’s no wonder TRANOÏ has everyone talking. We give you the lowdown on the Paris and New York shows. Girls run the world If you’re looking for women’s fashion TRANOÏ Paris: Women’s is one of the most influential fashion rendezvous in the world. Representing almost 600 exhibitors, the flagship trade show prides itself on its strict selection process and high standards of design and presentation. Meanwhile TRANOÏ New York takes a more personal approach and offers a more private view of its exclusive brand selection, sourced worldwide. A perfect blend of avant-garde European aesthetics with the fashion-forward American spirit, it encompasses ready- to-wear jewellery, footwear, leather goods, hats, scarves, sunglasses, jackets and swimwear from designers representing every continent. Whichever side of the pond you find yourself, TRANOÏ is bound to offer plenty of inspiration for classic and contemporary women’s fashion. 120

B U Y E R Man about town TRANOÏ Paris: Men’s was launched as the male counterpart to its female predecessor in 2005, well before Men’s Fashion Week was a stable fixture on the Paris buying calendar. Today it’s the premier men’s fashion trade show in Paris, presenting over 150 exhibitors each season, and so it’s a perfect chance to discover new menswear brands, see the latest innovations and stock up on the best pieces. Ahead of the pack Since 2015 TRANOÏ has presented a new women’s pre-collection alongside the men’s show, capitalising on its success. The pre-collections have been a huge hit and only proven the fashion world’s hunger for extra shows, with international buyers packing out venues four times a year. They offer the perfect chance to snap up the latest women’s pieces without waiting for the main shows. The sweet smell of success In January 2016, TRANOÏ launched a new dedicated perfume area, hosting a selection of up-market and exclusive niche perfume brands in the centre of the Cité de la Mode et du Design venue during the three-day Paris show. After the success of its European cousin, New York will see its own trade show dedicated to niche perfumes and fragrances launched in September 2016. With further plans to expand its empire and build on its remarkable success, TRANOÏ looks set for a fabulous – and fashionable – future. TRANOÏ PARIS: MEN’S WAS LAUNCHED AS THE MALE COUNTERPARTTO ITS FEMALE PREDECESSOR IN 2005,WELL BEFORE MEN’S FASHION WEEK WAS A STABLE FIXTURE ON THE PARIS BUYING CALENDAR 121

B U Y E R KOPENHAGEN FUR, THE WORLD’S MOST FAMOUS FUR AUCTION, TAKES PLACE IN COPENHAGEN FIVE TIMES A YEAR HEADING TO DENMARK FOR FURS Fur factory owners from every corner of the world gather here in January, February, April, June, and September, seeking to get hold of mink, chinchilla, fox, karakul, rabbit, sable, and seal of unsurpassed quality. Apart from that, Kopenhagen Fur is the only auction house offering swakara, a south west African variety of karakul. Every item offered at the auction belongs to one of the four categories, as indicated by its quality label. The best fur is called Kopenhagen purple, followed by Kopenhagen platinum, Kopenhagen burgundy, and Kopenhagen ivory. Only furs that have undergone a multi- stage grading process can carry any of the labels. The selection procedure includes continuously monitoring the conditions where animals are kept, the quality of their feed, and the implementation of new technologies in the farms. The auction house boasts fur of all quality standards as well as a huge array of shades. Gone are the days of classic brown mink being the only option on offer. Recent fashion weeks around the world, from Paris to Tokyo, have shown that designers are willing to experiment with furs. This is KOPENHAGEN STUDIO 122

B U Y E R true of both colours and usage. For instance, Gucci, Fendi, Dolce & Gabbana, and many other fashion houses have successfully demonstrated that fur is an all-purpose material which is great for making bags, footwear, and even embellishments. In order to keep up with the times, the Kopenhagen Fur auction house has established Kopenhagen Studio, a dedicated laboratory, as part of KiCK, their creative powerhouse. Here both celebrated and emerging brands have a chance to showcase their designs, work hand in hand with experienced furriers, learn to choose furs correctly, and master fur skin treatment technologies. Kopenhagen Studio also actively collaborates with fashion schools around the world, educating students on the limitless possibilities of the fur. ‘Fur is an amazing material that can be modified and transformed at will. Today, we see that many young designers make successful attempts at combining several types and colours of fur, which makes for some completely unexpected results,’ says Mikkel Schou, a furrier participating in Kopenhagen Studio. According to him, this material is undoubtedly superior to any others because of its volume: its 3D effect allows designers to create geometric shapes. Thomas Andersen, Head of Studio, is confident that fur items made of multi-coloured fragments will stay on trend over the next few years, although he admits that the plain brown mink coat may make a comeback to the catwalks one day. KiCK, the creative powerhouse, also boasts a truly gorgeous archive of fur items, which the founders intend to become the world’s largest collection of fur clothes, footwear, and accessories over time. At present, it contains designs created over the years that Kopenhagen Studio has been in existence. FREYA DALSJOE F/W 2016 MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN F/W 2016 SASHAS EKSAMENS PROJEKT MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN F/W 2016 FREYA DALSJOE F/W 2016 123

B U Y E R 124 PERU – A NEW FASHION DESTINATION WE VISITED PERU’S MAIN FASHION EXHIBITION, PERÚ MODA IN LIMA, TO TALK TO IGOR ROJAS CHU, COORDINATOR OF THE APPAREL AND DECOR DEPARTAMENT OF THE PERUVIAN GOVERNMENT\'S COMMISSION FOR THE PROMOTION OF EXPORT AND TOURISM, PROMPERU. HE EXPLAINED TO US WHY FASHION MARKET PLAYERS FROM AROUND THE WORLD ARE FINDING PERUVIAN APPAREL INDUSTRY SO ATTRACTIVE Your projects include Perú Moda and Perú Gift Show, an exhi- bition dedicated to the Peruvian apparel industry, homewares and gifts. On a national level, both of them are the largest in their field. What else does your commission do? Our main goal is to increase export of Peruvian products. We promote local companies producing materials such as cotton and, of course, our world-famous alpaca fiber. We also arrange trips to our enterprises for foreign buyers who are interested in collaboration. We also organize promotion activities where our companies participate and exhibit their offer to foreign buyers, such as trade shows, overseas business trips and so on. What are the main markets for Peruvian cotton and alpaca wool? Primarily, the USA. In addition, we work a lot with Brazil and have a number of important clients in Europe. For example, Lacoste produces some of its collections here. Our companies also cooperate with such fashion houses as Cacharel, Kenzo, INTERVIEW: Asya Tatevosyan

B U Y E R MACHU PICCHU, PERU 125 Dior and Prada. In other words, Peruvian companies primarily serve luxury brands. We are the second country after Italy sup- plying the most expensive product to the United States, that is, to some extent we are the alternative to \'Made in Italy\'. What is the situation like regarding Russia? We are looking for opportunities in the Russia Market, primarily with trademarks and distributors dealing in children\'s clothes. We also have major clients from the world of women\'s and sports clothes – for example, Bosco di Ciliegi. We mainly coop- erate with companies that are interested in sourcing from Peru. You invited about five hundred buyers from different countries to participate in the Perú Moda exhibition. What were the selection criteria? As the exhibition presents companies that specialise in different product categories, for example, children\'s clothes and cotton or alpaca products, we selected buyers specifically for each of these lines. Because our main market is the USA, most of the buyers came from there, but the exhibition participants also included buyers from Europe,Asia, as well as Latin American countries – Brazil, Colombia and Chile. We have a special commission which selects buyers on the basis of a number of criteria: price category, the number of stores and the line of business. For example, some companies are more interested in buying thread, but we focus on those who are in search of the final product and would like to set up production at one of our factories. In your opinion, what is there in Peru that primarily attracts buyers? I think it is Peru\'s centuries-old weaving traditions, as well as the high quality of materials and processing. In addition, this is where 80% of the world population of alpacas is concen- trated. Where else can you find Peruvian products and companies apart from Perú Moda? We also participate in specialised exhibitions in the USA, Latin America, as well as in Europe – for example, in Paris and London. Is your work aimed only at attracting foreign luxury brands to Peru, or do you also help local trademarks enter the international market? Yes, we are actively engaged in the promotion of Peruvian brands, although they are presented in a limited area so far. At the moment, our designers\' products are sold mainly in the USA, as well as in Brazil, Chile and Colombia. For exam- ple, last year we held a contest, and the winner was able to present their collection in the US department store Macy\'s. We also support talented students who want to become designers, and we try to help them enter the international market. Photo: Lior Susana

B U Y E R PITTI 90: FLORENCE TAKES CENTRE STAGE TRAVELLERS ON THE MILAN–FLORENCE FRECCIAROSSA TRAIN MIGHT HAVE NOTICED A SLIGHTLY MORE STYLISH PASSENGER VIBE ON JUNE 14. THAT’S BECAUSE FASHION’S GREAT AND GOOD WERE ALL IN TOWN TO CATCH THE FABULOUS ANNUAL PITTI UOMO SHOW. WE FIND OUT MORE ABOUT ONE OF FLORENCE’S BIGGEST FASHION EVENTS Once a trade show for buyers, Pitti Uomo has long since reinvented itself as a unique high fashion affair featuring the world’s best menswear. Industry experts flock here to see new collections from both renowned designers and emerging brands as well as to meet colleagues, visit fashion shows and cocktail parties and simply to see and be seen. Florence, often called the Pearl of Tuscany for its beauty, is always crowded with tourists, but Pitti Uomo transforms it into a real fashion capital. During the show’s run it’s almost impossible to flag down a taxi, and the city’s roads grind to a standstill. But it’s all for good reason, as the streets, hotels and cafés fill up with some of the world’s most stylish men all looking for fashion inspiration in this legendary artistic city. Nowadays all roads lead to the meeting point of Fortezza da Basso, a fourteenth-century fort five minute’s walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station. Here you’ll find benches crammed with ‘peacocks’ – but these peacocks are more human than bird: handsome gentlemen in colourful suits, happy to strike a pose for photographers. The first Florence Pitti show was held back in 1972, and has been held 90 times since, suffusing this year’s show with a celebratory spirit as it welcomed 30,000 guests from countries including Italy, Germany, Spain, Great Britain, the Netherlands, Belgium and Austria, as well as representatives from further afield: Japan, Turkey, China, Switzerland, the USA, South Korea, and Russia. And with good reason: more than 1200 manufacturers vied for their attention as they presented their latest collections. The hosts traditionally give young talents a prominent TEXT: Alisa Nesterova PHOTO: courtesy of press offices B U Y E R 126

B U Y E R spot in the limelight, and this year was no different. The finalists of Who is on next?, a young designers’ contest organised by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery in collaboration with AltaRoma and Vogue Italia, presented their works in the central exhibition hall. The prêt-à- porter category was won by Carlo Volpi, Traiano and Tropiano, and the first prize in the accessories category went to Alan Buanne, Ilariusss and Solovière. MINI, Pitti’s partner brand, brought the creations of on- the-rise designers Sunnei, Agi & Sam, Sankuanz, Ètudes and Hien Le to the stage, located in a hall in the heart of Fortezza da Basso. This edition of Pitti also enjoyed the fashion shows of established designers – Raf Simons, Lucio Vanotti, Sansovino 6, and Visvim were among the highlights. Special guest from Russia Gosha Rubchinskiy presented his outfits at an abandoned INDUSTRY EXPERTS FLOCK HERE TO SEE NEW COLLECTIONS FROM BOTH RENOWNED DE- SIGNERS AND EMERGING BRANDS AS WELL AS TO MEET COLLEAGUES, VISIT FASHION SHOWS AND COCKTAIL PARTIES AND SIMPLY TO SEE AND BE SEEN tobacco factory: the perfect setting for his new collection inspired by tough post-Soviet youth. Fausto Puglisi also debuted his first men’s capsule collection. One of the highlights was Karl Lagerfeld\'s photography exhibition, called Visions of Fashion, where never-before- seen images taken by Lagerfeld for Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Numéro and V Magazine were displayed. The next edition of Pitti Uomo will be held January 10-13th, 2017. 127

B U Y E R This season it didn’t disappoint, showcasing a world of new menswear talent with over 200 emerging brands presenting their SS17 collections at both Capsule Paris and Capsule New York. Featuring exciting new brands from countries including Sweden, Denmark, England, the US, Italy, Australia,Japan, Korea, and France, it’s not surprising that the show enjoyed a 25% increase in international retailer attendance on last year.An array of the world’s most directional retailers – from department stores, specialty stores and independent boutiques – attended the shows. Key stores that shopped Capsule this year include: Barneys New York, Beams Japan, Colette Paris, Galeries Lafayette, Mr Porter, Holt Renfrew, Liberty, Selfridges and United Arrows. Capsule New York was held at Pier 92, in the heart of historic Midtown Manhattan, just next door to Liberty Fairs at Pier 94.The two shows shared registration, making it even easier for buyers to enjoy both shows. Additionally, for the first time, NY TIME CAPSULE CAPSULE HAS BEEN MAKING A NAME FOR ITSELF ON THE GLOBALTRADE SHOW SCENE FOR NEARLY TEN YEARS,AND NOW IT’S TAKEN NEW YORK AND PARIS BY STORM WITH TWO NEW MEN’S SHOWS.WITH SOME OF THE WORLD\'S MOST DIRECTIONAL BRANDS ON DISPLAY, CAPSULE HAS BECOME A LAUNCHPAD FOR FUTURE FASHION SUPERSTARS 128

B U Y E R Market Week was brought forward a week in order for Capsule to run alongside the CFDA’s recently launched New York Fashion Week: Men’s presentations. ‘We were excited to run concurrently with NYFW: M, allowing us more opportunities to support emerging fashion in New York. By overlapping dates, we hope that many of the international community of retailers and press who came to New York to attend Market Week had a chance to attend New York Fashion Week: Men’s, and that more attendees of NYFW:M were able to visit the Capsule Show,’ says Deirdre Maloney, co-founder of Capsule. Key areas of interest in New York included: Perspective Darren Skey — in which the British retailer and head of menswear at Harvey Nichols curated a presentation of four up-and-coming designers — Pier Wu, GHSTS, Martin Asbjorn and Soulland. Meanwhile Capsule’s spotlight on American designers, New America, introduced the Capsule community to American- made brands that span the worlds of streetwear and luxury: Second Layer, Lucid FC, Hymne,The Squad and Ddugoff. Overall the feeling on the show floor was upbeat, as buyers wrote orders and took positions on new and unique collections. The key SS17 menswear trends at Capsule Paris and New York: 90s street style: Street and sportswear classics like oversized hoodies, anoraks, tracksuits and bleached denim basics dominate this look. All-over graphics, bright colour pops and elongated sleeves add a twist. (XLarge) The new suit: The suit is dead, long live the suit! Menswear sees an evolution this season with a bold silhouette, oversized shoulders, and flowing trousers offering a radical reinterpretation of formalwear. (Ikire) Performance: From trousers to coats and jackets, menswear wardrobe staples get updated with performance fabrics and detailing. (Isaora) Minimalist silhouettes: Clean lines and an emphasis on construction are the highlights of this simple and modern menswear trend. (Hymne, Matiere) 129

B U Y E R The festival was opened with a contemporary fashion and design exhibition, where Agata Patrizia Saccone, TaoModa President and founder, and Elena Bugranova, President of the Russian Buyers Union, cut the red ribbon. ‘TaoModa not only celebrates contemporary prominent figures in Italian fashion, but also its future champions,’ said Saccone at the opening of the show, which featured work by many promising fashion and design talents, including La Cles, Filly Biz, Lellè By Lentini, Angela Piazza, Otto Punto, Essesteel Jewels and Ludema Bag. The festival culminated with the annual TaoModa Awards ceremony, held at Taormina’s breathtaking Ancient Theatre. The prestigious Tao Awards are given for achievements in fashion, design, journalism, music, business, cinema and TV. One of those recognised was Capucci Haute Couture House, whose new creative director Mario Dice runs his own name label and has a jaw-dropping list of collaborations including Sorelle Fontana, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Gattinoni, Trussardi, Krizia and David Koma. Anteprima and its creative director Izumi Ogino also took home a prize. The brand is known for its iconic ‘wirebags’, made of high-tech wire. Di Liborio’s Liborio Capizzi, also an awardee, worked with Gianfranco Ferré for 16 years before starting his own label. Last but not least, Vivetta also featured on the winners list. The special Progetto Time TaoModa Prize was won by Matteo Thiela. As TaoModa’s president, Agata Patrizia Saccone commented, ‘We want to highlight brands that have pushed the evolution of fashion to the next level. This is why we’ve given the prize to Matteo, who has patented a groundbreaking technique for working with fabrics.’ TaoModa also saw the first international show for Mariù De Sica, designer and TAOMODA: THE FESTIVAL WITH A SICILIAN FLAVOUR A MAJOR EVENT IN FASHION, ART AND CULTURE, TAOMODA TOOK PLACE JUNE 16-23 ON THE IONIAN SEA, IN THE HEART OF THE ANCIENT CITY OF TAORMINA granddaughter of renowned film director Vittorio De Sica. She presented her first spring/summer 2017 collection and from September will participate in Milan Fashion Week. Meanwhile, young designers had an opportunity to meet fashion experts from around the world. One of them was Elena Bugranova who also was on the jury. She told the public about the Russian market and gave advice on how to attract buyers. Another highlight was the presentation of ‘The Gentleman Without a Hat’, a book on men’s fashion written by Mario Dell’Oglio, president of the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers. PHOTO: Armando Vincenzo Vinciguerra 130

B U Y E R ‘TAOMODA NOT ONLY CELEBRATES CONTEMPORARY PROMINENT FIGURES IN ITALIAN FASHION, BUT ALSO ITS FUTURE CHAMPIONS,’ SAID AGATA PATRIZIA SACCONE, TAOMODA PRESIDENT AND FOUNDER 131

B U Y E R Five designers in the clothing category and seven in the accessories category were selected as finalists for Who Is On Next?, the young designers’ contest conceived and organized by AltaRoma in collaboration with Vogue Italia. The prêt- à-porter category was won by Brognano and Miahatami, while the first prize in the accessories category went to Pugnetti Parma. The jury consisted of 20 industry experts, including Mario Dell’Oglio, President of the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers; Beppe Angiolini, the owner of Sugar (Arezzo); Roberta Valentini, the owner of Penelope (Brescia); and Tiziana Cardini, Fashion Director of La Rinascente (Milan). There were plenty of other famous fashion figures too: the chairwoman of AltaRoma, Silvia Venturini Fendi; Miroslava Duma, BROGNANO AND MIAHATAMI: WHO IS ON NEXT? WINNERS ANNOUNCED ALTAROMA FASHION WEEK, HELD JULY 8-11, ONCE AGAIN PROVED ITS STATUS AS A SCOUTING GROUND FOR UP-AND-COMING FASHION TALENTS AND WAS JAM-PACKED WITH FANTASTIC EVENTS AS USUAL MIAHATAMI MIAHATAMI MIAHATAMI TEXT: Michela Zio PHOTO: courtesy of press offices 132

B U Y E R B U Y E R founder of Buro 24/7; designer Stella Jean; fashion critic Suzy Menkes (Condé Nast International); Managing Director of Pitti Immagine, Raffaello Napoleone; designer for the Max Mara Group Laura Lusuardi; and the editor-in- chief of Vogue Italia, Franca Sozzani. This year Who Is On Next? – one of the ten most important fashion prizes in the world according to the Financial Times – collaborated with the National Chamber of Italian Fashion, whose President, Carlo Capasa, also was in the jury. Capasa has now announced that the winners Brognano and Miahatami will be presenting their collections at Milan Fashion Week in September 2017. Brognano was founded by 25-year-old Nicola Brognano, born in Roccella Ionica, Calabria. His collection was created in collaboration with L.Lab and will be distributed via Milan-based showroom Garage; Miahatami was launched by Narguess Hatami, a designer from Iran. Her clothes will be distributed via Milan-based showroom Spazio 38. Nicola Brognano, who has previously worked with Dolce&Gabbana Haute Couture and Giambattista Valli, also received a special mention from Yoox and was awarded the ‘Tomorrow Prize’ by London-based multi-brand showroom Tomorrow for his outstanding ability to interpret street style. All the Who Is On Next? finalists in the accessories category will be special guests at the coming Première Classe exhibition in Paris. BROGNANO BROGNANO BROGNANO 133

B U Y E R The Time Award, established as part of the WHITE tradeshow, is designed to help contemporary segment brands gain recognition in the market and find new sales opportunities. It has now announced its winning brands for the second time. These are Matteo Thiela in the apparel section and Simone Vera Bath in accessories. The award was established by WHITE in cooperation with Lancia, Time Award’s main partner; The Best Shops, a project of the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers; and the I.C.E agency. The Time Award jury was chaired by Mario Dell’Oglio, the owner of Dell’Oglio boutiques in Palermo, and included prominent Italian buyers Bruna Casella (Bernardelli boutique, Mantua), Massimo Degli Effetti (Degli Effetti, Rome), Giovanna Gaudenzi (Gaudenzi, Riccione), Loris Portolan (Birba’s Details, Pordenone), Cesare Tadolini (L’Incontro, Modena), Jacopo Tonelli (L’Inde Le Palais, Bologna), and Roberta Valentini (Penelope Store, Brescia). Thanks to the I.C.E’s support, the jury was also joined by New York buyers Lauren Forst (Kirna Zabete) and Michael Adjiashvili (Hotoveli), as well as Krystle Kemp (Need Supply, Richmond), Sharona Hadar and Melanie Chokron (owner and buyer respectively of H. Lorenzo, Los Angeles). The Time Award winners participated in a trunk show that took place on 7 July in the Gaudenzi boutique. The designers are entitled to two more shows, at Le Noir in Treviso on 20 October and at Bernardelli in Mantua in November, where they will present their autumn/winter 2016-17 collections. Apart from that, the winners are also welcomed in America, where they will display their spring/summer 2017 novelties. There were also special prizes awarded: Sheena received the I.C.E award, Federica Tosi was commended Lancia, while Matteo Thiela earned recognition from TaoModa. Matteo Thiela is a brand of exquisite garments for women, with an emphasis on materials and innovation.The designer has patented TIME AWARD WINNERS 2016 THE TIME AWARD, ESTABLISHED AS PART OF THE WHITE TRADESHOW, IS DESIGNED TO HELP CONTEMPORARY SEGMENT BRANDS GAIN RECOGNITION IN THE MARKETAND FIND NEW SALES OPPORTUNITIES. IT HAS NOW ANNOUNCED ITS WINNING BRANDS FOR THE SECOND TIME. THESE ARE MATTEO THIELA IN THE APPAREL SECTION AND SIMONE VERA BATH IN ACCESSORIES TEXT: Michela Zio PHOTO: courtesy of press offices an original method of producing 3D-patterned Bombyx dresses.The spring/summer 2017 collection showcases a new tailoring technique which emphasises the sensual lines of dresses, skirts, jackets and tops. Simone Bath, originator of the brand Simone Vera Bath, is from Berlin but has lived and worked in Rome for over 20 years now. She makes a wide use of luxury materials like gold, cut diamonds, and other precious stones, and combines these with items of bronze, wood, and leather. Her brand’s fully hand-made accessories convey a distinct influence of various cultures and a love for ideal shapes and for imperfection at the same time.The concept of incompleteness makes every single creation truly unique. SIMONE VERA BATH MATTEO THIELA MARIO DELL\'OGLIO, ANTONELLA BRUNO AND FEDERICA TOSI PATRIZIA SACCONE AND ELENA BUGRANOVA 134

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B U Y E R The hotel only opened its doors just over a year ago, but has already gained huge popularity among travelling businessmen and womenlooking for a convenient location. The hotel is situated just a short distance from all the main exhibition and business centres. Nearby you can find Kievsky Railway Terminal, the Barrikadnaya, Smolenskaya and Arbatskaya underground stations, the House of the Government of the Russian Federation, as well as the US and British embassies. The hotel has four conference rooms, the largest of which can accommodate up to 250 people. If you’re holding a smaller gathering the meeting room is cosier, with a capacity of 12. If you want to organise an exclusive event, the Marriott Hotel Novy Arbat offers the Meetings Imagined concept. It allows you not only to visualise all the details of your event, such as the style, seating of guests, menu, lighting and musical accompaniment, but also to implement all of your brilliant ideas, however extraordinary. Just go to the website meetingsimagined.com and follow the link to the hotel\'s page. There you can also leave a request for the planning and execution of a meeting or conference. Another technical innovation from the Marriott International chain is the Red Coat mobile app, which allows you to amend an event programme online from anywhere in the world. The perfect place for morning meetings is the New York Steakhouse restaurant, where breakfast is served from 7.00 – 11.00. Whatever your dietary requirements the New York Steakhouse can accommodate you: porridge can be cooked with water on request, you can choose an egg white omelette or enjoy muesli with skimmed or soya milk. Gluten-free bread is also available. In the evening, the restaurant opens its doors as a steakhouse. T H E H O T E L F O R B U S I N E S S M E E T I N G S FASHION WEEKS, EXHIBITIONS, CONFERENCES OR BUSINESS DINNERS: THERE ARE MANY REASONS YOU MIGHT NEED A ROOM IN MOSCOW. THERE’S PLENTY OF HOTELS VYING FOR YOUR ATTENTION, BUT OUR TOP PICK CAN ONLY BE THE MARRIOTT HOTEL NOVY ARBAT. ENJOY YOUR STAY 32 Novy Arbat +7 495 734 7000 moscowmarriottarbat.com C H O I C E 136

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B U Y E R BEING A BUYER CESARE TADOLINI IS THE FOUNDER AND MASTERMIND BEHIND MODENA’S BOUTIQUE CHAIN L’INCONTRO, ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING RETAIL VENTURES IN ONE OF THE MOST FASCINATING CITIES IN EMILIA-ROMAGNA. L\'INCONTRO HAS BEEN RECOGNISED BY THE PRESTIGIOUS BEST SHOPS PROJECT, WHICH LISTS THE MOST IMPORTANT ITALIAN FASHION STORES, AND ITS OWNER TADOLINI IS ONE OF THE MOST FAMOUS ITALIAN RETAILERS MY MAIN SOURCE OF INSPIRATION? NATURE. NATURE CAN TEACH US EVERYTHING IF ONLY WE LEARN HOW TO LISTEN.’ ‘The difference between a good buyer and a great buyer is that a great buyer knows how to make classic clothing look fashionable, and how to make fashionable outfits look classic.’ ‘The buyer of the future must have knowledge of everything around us.’ ‘Boutiques will never be replaced, because they are and always will represent the heart of fashion: as a showpiece, as an indispensable retail element and as a reflection of trends.’ ‘What makes a boutique great? It should spark customers’ imagination and make them feel like shopping there is a special, personal experience designed perfectly for them.’ ‘Before I could succeed in business I had to become a stylist of the world around me.’ ‘Your work and personal life should be equally important, which is why I give fashion no more than the time it needs.’ ‘My main source of inspiration? Nature. Nature can teach us everything if only we learn how to listen.’ ‘If I weren’t a buyer I would have become a landscape architect, a set designer or followed some other career in theatre or cinema.’ 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 Cesare T adolini 8 TEXT: Michela Zio 138

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