Spectacular Slovakia - Central Slovakia

Includes pull-out map slovakiatravel guide SPECTACULAR SLOVAKIA content advisor

Bojnice Castle The annual coronation ceremony Hronsek Štiavnické vrchy Banská Bystrica How to use this guide 2 Seven day itinerary 4 Slovakia’sTOP 10 5 History 6 Changing Slovakia 12 Personalities 16 UNESCO 20 Sight by sight Bratislava 26 Bratislava Region 45 Western Slovakia 60 Central Slovakia 96 Northern Slovakia 118 Eastern Slovakia 166 Feature section Castles 200 Slovak art 204 Folklore 209 Gothic architecture 212 Religion 214 Wooden churches 216 Jewish heritage 220 Spas 223 Wine 228 Beer & Spirits 232 Food 234 Agritourism 238 Animal watching 240 Horses 242 Cycling 245 Rafting 249 Hiking 252 Caves 256 Skiing 259 Aqua 262 Best deals 265 Extreme - heights 268 Speed, army 270 Out of the city 272 Luxury 274 Golf 276 Genealogy 280 War 282 Mines, technical monuments 285 Industrial tours 288 Economy 290 Basics for tourists Language (inside front cover) Souvenirs 294 Events 294 Travellers’ needs 300 Restaurants 302 Index (inside back cover) Pull-out map (inside back cover) CONTENTS

Live your own story of Slovakia Top Slovak sights 32 travel feature stories Pull-out map of Slovakia Suggested seven day itinerary Information and contact details for more than 450 tourist spots Drawings of 28 historical monuments 3D aerial drawings of 7 major city centres 17 maps of city centres and major mountains More than 1,000 photos Calendar of events Selection of top hotels and restaurants ISBN 978-80-971719-0-2 The Slovak Spectator Slovak news you can trust since 1995 sPecTAcULAR sLOVAKiA

Central Slovakia Central Slovakia, with its extensive forests and hilly terrain, is the least densely populated region of the country. Its landscape varies from the ruggedVeľká Fatra to the more tame NízkeTatry (LowTatras) in the north, through the rangy hills and valleys of the Štiavnické vrchy around Banská Štiavnica, to the agricultural flatlands south of Levice. Central Slovakia is home to the LowTatras and Muránska planina national parks as well as five protected natural areas, Cerová vrchovina, the Poľana UNESCO biosphere reservation, Ponitrie, Štiavnické vrchy, and theVeľká Fatra mountains. The hilly terrain is well suited for ski resorts Donovaly or Jasná in the LowTatras. Banská Bystrica Region has two main rivers flowing through it: the Hron, which is the largest and originates nearTelgárt, flowing through the whole region to join the Danube at Štúrovo; and the Ipeľ, which forms a natural boundary with Hungary. The rich mining industry tradition, which generated considerable wealth in a number of towns, is still visible through architecture built from those profits. The most notable mining cities are Banská Bystrica, Kremnica and Banská Štiavnica, perhaps the most celebrated town in central Slovakia. In addition to the mines, caves are among the biggest attractions in the region with the huge mountain cave, the Dead Bats’ Cave and Bystrianska cave (both in the LowTatras) or the Harmanecká Cave near Banská Bystrica among the most popular. The wooden church Hronsek, a UNESCO site, is also in Central Slovakia. 1 Banská Bystrica W (city, castle) pg 98-99, 282, 207, 238, 243, 245, 267, 275, 280 2 Hronský Beňadik (monastery) pg 100, 201 3 Hodruša - Hámre (mine) pg 285 4 Sklené Teplice (spa) pg 100, 226, 227 5 Banská Štiavnica W (castle, mine, city - UNESCO site, calvary) pg 101-104, 215, 285, 252, 272 6 Svätý Anton (manor house) pg 105, 238, 243 7 Dudince (spa) pg 225 8 Bzovík (castle - ruins) pg 202-203 9 Krupina (town, tower) pg 106 10 Zaježová (eco-village) pg 272 11 Zvolen (city, castle) pg 106-107, 221, 243, 283 12 Sliač (spa, golf, flights) pg 224, 269, 275, 277 13 Hronsek W (wooden church - UNESCO site) pg 108, 216 14 Zvolenská Slatina (food) pg 238 15 Vígľaš (castle) pg 107 16 Slatinské Lazy (extreme - army) pg 270 17 Detva (folklore) pg 107, 210 18 Poľana (hiking) pg 108 19 Modrý Kameň (castle) pg 109 20 Dolná Strehová (aqua, manor house) pg 263, 203 21 Lučenec (city) pg 109, 269, 271 22 Rapovce (aqua) pg 263 23 Fiľakovo (castle - ruins) pg 110  pages 101-104  page 114  page 109 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 99 10 11 12 14 15 16 17 13 19 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 96 introduction to central slovakia

24 Šomoška (castle - ruins) pg 110 25 Rimavská Sobota (town) pg 110 26 Číž (spa) pg 224 27 Chyžné (gothic church) pg 212 28 Šumiac (museum) pg 111, 243 29 Muránska planina (hiking, castle, horses) pg 111, 242, 252 30 Tisovec (cog train) pg 286-287 31 Michalová (agritourism) pg 239 32 Čierny Balog W(railway) pg 112, 286-287, 266 33 Brezno (town) pg 112, 238, 245, 265 34 Bystrianska jaskyňa (cave) pg 112, 257, 256 35 Tále W (hiking, ski, golf) pg 113, 276-277 36 Jaskyňa mŕtvych netopierov W (cave) pg 113, 257 37 Nízke Tatry W (hiking, ski) pg 144-145, 252-254, 265 38 Brusno (spa) pg 224 39 Slovenská Ľupča (castle) pg 114 40 Kalište (WWII) pg 282 41 Donovaly W (ski, hiking, children) pg 114, 260, 239, 245, 271 42 Špania Dolina (church, hiking) pg 115, 253 43 Harmanecká jaskyňa (cave) pg 115 44 Skalka (ski) pg 261 45 Kremnica W (city, castle, mine) pg 115-117  pages 115-117  pages 98-99  page 111  page 112 18 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 introduction to central slovakia 97

1 Mestský hrad (Town Castle) Námestie Štefana Moyzesa, Banská Bystrica 1a Kostol Nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 1, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-4531  exterior views only  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat 16:30 Sun 7:00, 8:30, 11:00, 16:30 1b Matejov dom (House of Matej)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 20, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-5577  www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00- 17:00 €2.5    WC 1c Kostol sv. Kríža (Church of the Holy Cross)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa +421 (0)48 412-4531  exterior views only  Mon-Sat 6:30 Sun 9:45 1d Stará radnica - Pretórium (Old Town Hall)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 25, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 470-1613  www.ssgbb.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-17:00 Sat-Sun 10:00-16:00 €2  WC 1e Barbakan (Barbican)  Námestie Štefana Moyzesa 26, Banská Bystrica www.bystrickybarbakan.sk  WC  Mon-Fri 12:00, 16:30 Sat 16:30 Sun 7:00 TheTown Castle was once a church that was protected by fortifications and a moat. At one time Banská Bystrica was a prosperous mining town, and the castle was built to protect the income from precious metal mining. The castle was not built on a hill like most castles but was incorporated into the centre of the city. The castle was constructed around the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary in the 15th century. Its fortifications were extended several times and new structures were added. Only about a quarter of the fortification walls have survived the rigors of time and battle, but there are many interesting nearby sites, including: the gothic House of Matej from 1479; the Slovak Church, also called the Church of the Holy Cross, from the late 15th century; the Renaissance OldTown Hall, called Praetorium; and the entrance gate with an impressive tower (called the Barbican) from 1512. Today the OldTown Hall houses exhibitions of the Stredoslovenská galéria (Central Slovak Gallery) and the House of Matej hosts a permanent exhibition about the history of the city prepared by the Stredoslovenské múzeum (Central Slovak Museum). In the Barbican there is a restaurant and a café. The oldest part of the town castle is the Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary. It was built by Germans in the 13th century in a late romanesque style and reconstructed in gothic in the 14th century. In the 15th century it was fortified. Initially a cemetery surrounded the grounds, then later a romanesque charnel house, which survived into the 19th century. The main altar, the work of Master Paul of Levoča, was destroyed in a fire in 1761 and later replaced by a baroque piece. An altar dedicated to St Barbara, from Master Paul’s workshop, completed in 1509, has been preserved. The frescoes of the saints and the original 1770 baroque vault as well as a late gothic sculpture of Christ on the Mount of Olives from the 1 Banská Bystrica W map E 3 210 km / 131 miles (117 min) NE of Bratislava  80,003  Námestie SNP 1, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 415-5085; +421 (0)907 846-555 www.banskabystrica.sk   1.5 km / 0.9 mile E of centre  May: United Europe Jazz Festival; July: Outbreak Europe (Hip-Hop Festival); September: B. Bystrica Town Days; October: Bábkarská Bystrica (festival of puppet theatre); December: Christmas market The City under the Urpín mountain, as Slovaks refer to Banská Bystrica, was once along with Banská Štiavnica and Kremnica, one of the three wealthiest mining towns in central Slovakia. The history of the city is similar to that of other mining towns which were settled by German colonists. The first written mention of the town also relates to mining. In 1255 Hungarian King Béla IV granted a deed giving German settlers the right to mine gold, silver and other metals. The immense wealth arising from mining is still reflected in the architecture of the city, most notably in the town castle, the Church of the Assumption of theVirgin Mary, the old town hall, the remaining vestiges of the fortifications, and the main square. The square is flanked by gothic and Renaissance burgher houses and in its upper section, the leaning clock tower and the Marian column. Because of its unique architecture it was declared a preserved urban reserve in 1955, the first town so designated in Slovakia. The town played a significant role in the Slovak National Uprising (SNP), when the armed resistance against the Nazi occupation ignited here on August 29, 1944. The SNP Museum, documenting the events of anti-fascist revolt, is also located in Banská Bystrica. Banská Bystrica is the capital of Banská Bystrica Region, and is the site of the Matej Bel University. Many factories and a rich cultural life continue to make Banská Bystrica lively and interesting. The city is also known for its brewery and beer named Urpiner. 98 central slovakia - banská bystrica Old Town Hall Barbakan 1d 1e Altar dedicated to St Barbara HouseofMatejandChurchoftheHolyCross

early 16th century are worth seeing. The church continues to offer masses on a regular basis. 2 Hodinová veža (Clock Tower)  Námestie SNP 24, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 415-5085  Mon-Sun: 10:00-19:00 €1 At the top of the square there is the yellow-fronted clock tower from the 16th century, which has two clock-faces and a narrow balcony beneath its black and gold domed cap. As a result of the collapse of a neighbouring building, the tower leans to the left by 68 centimetres in a rather disturbing manner. It offers a panoramic view of the town and surrounding valley. It was reopened after reconstruction in August 2014. 3  Thurzov dom (Thurzo’s House)  Námestie SNP 4, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-5897  www.ssmuzeum.sk  Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 Sat-Sun 14:00-18:00  Tue-Fri 9:00- 17:00 Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00 €2.5  WC Some of the burgher houses on the square are decorated with stucco and sgraffito façade. One of the most beautiful houses, the green-faced Thurzo\'s House, contains the Stredoslovenské múzeum (the Museum of Central Slovakia). The house was the former headquarters of the Thurzo-Fugger copper mining company from 1492 to 1540. The exhibition on the history of Banská Bystrica includes a large collection of archaeological exhibits, mediaeval arms, coins, and copies of historical documents. A special place is devoted to gothic art, mining, guilds, and crafts. 4 MúzeumSlovenskéhonárodnéhopovstania (Museum of the Slovak National Uprising)  Kapitulská 23, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 412-3258; +421 (0)48 245-1124; +421 (0)918 899-430  www.muzeumsnp.sk  May-Sep: Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00; Oct-Apr: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 €2    WC The distinctive grey building, designed by Dušan Kuzma and completed in 1969, is divided into two parts connected by a bridge. The gap represents the Slovak National Uprising (SNP) as a milestone in the life of the Slovak nation during World War II. Slovakia was a satellite of Nazi Germany when on August 29, 1944 the SNP erupted into a revolt against the Nazis. Despite the uprising being suppressed in late October 1944, Slovakia ultimately changed sides and ended the war on the side of the Allies. Today, the museum houses a permanent exhibition devoted to crucial political and military events in Slovakia from 1918 to 1948. There is an open-air exhibition of military equipment, including a plane that airlifted supplies to the embattled partisans. A historical library that contains more than 20,000 volumes is also noteworthy. 5 Štátna opera (State Opera)  Národná 11, Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 245-7101   www.stateopera.sk  depends on performances  depends on performances   WC The State Opera resides in a building dating back to the 1920s and is based on a plan by prominent Slovak architect Emil Belluš. It has been named a national monument. The State Opera began as a branch of the Zvolen Theatre, but since 1993 it has been independent. It employs its own orchestra, soloists, choir, and a ballet ensemble. The repertoire focuses not only on well-known works such as Verdi’s Macbeth and Puccini’s Madame Butterfly, but also produces the work of its own Slovak composers. Since 1979, the State Opera has participated in the festival Zámocké hry zvolenské (Zvolen Castle Plays), an annual drama and opera festival that offers performances in the the yard of Zvolen Castle. Nám.ŠtefanaMoyzesa Train station 16 min Národná Arcadepasáž Kuzmányho JánaCikkera NámestieSlovenského národnéhopovstania Nám.ŠtefanaMoyzesa Národná Kapitulská Krížna Skuteckého Horná Kapitulská FrantiškaŠvantnera Lazovná Štadlerovonábrežie Horná N central slovakia - banská bystrica 99 Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary House of Matej Church of the Holy Cross 1b 1c 1a 1 2 3 5 4 1a 1e 1d 1b 1c i

100 central slovakia 2 Hronský Beňadik map D 4  80 km / 50 miles (47 min) SW of Banská Bystrica  1,230 www.obechronskybenadik.sk   Church and monastery  Pod Kláštorom 1, Hronský Beňadik +421 (0)45 689-3198; +421 (0)903 938-393 www.benadik-klastor.sk  Mon-Fri 10:00-12:00, 13:00-16:00 Sat 13:00-16:00  closed (booking necessary)  Fri 18:00 voluntary The church and the adjacent Benedictine monastery, collectively known as the Pearl of the Pohronie region, were built on a strategic site originally called Slovenská Brána (Slovak Gate), an important trading crossroads. It is believed that a monastery already existed here in 1075, when the founding deed from that year contained a list of ownership rights for an existing monastery. Over the years, the property of the monastery grew and it came to serve as an official place where people could certify deeds, deposit valuables, publish books, and resolve property disputes. But when the Ottomans invaded the region in the 16th century, the order was dissolved and the monastery was turned into a military fortress to withstand Ottoman raids. This was not the last unusual function that the complex served: in 1950 the communists herded all of Slovakia\'s nuns into this monastery to crush monasteries and control religious activities.Today, the parish is administered by the Pallottine Order. The whole complex is of high historical and architectural value, and its three-nave church is considered to be one of the most remarkable gothic structures in Slovakia. It was built between 1346-1375, and its architecture shows that those who designed and built it were well acquainted with the works of the Parler workshop in Nuremberg and Prague, as well as the workshop responsible for the Cathedral of St Stephan in Vienna. Apart from precious wall paintings, carved wooden altars and excellent masonry, the church holds a precious relic of Christ’s Blood – a piece of the veil of Veronica, the scarf with which St Veronica is said to have wiped the face of Jesus. King Matthias Corvinus, who gave this relic to the church on the occasion of its consecration, probably received it from Pope Paul II as a thank you gift for his involvement in battles against the Ottomans. In addition to the monastery, the town contains other churches of interest, as well as the Plague Chapel of Holy Blood. Also noteworthy is a memorial to victims of World War I and the statuary of St Anna and St Benedict. 3 Hodruša–Hámre (mine)  page 285 4 sklenéteplice map D 4  55 km / 34 miles SW of Banská Bystrica  436 Liečebné termálne kúpele Sklené Teplice (spa)  Sklené Teplice 100  +421 (0)45 677-1061  Mon-Sun 7:00-19:00 from €1.5   WC Spa SklenéTeplice has been serving the health needs of Europeans since the 15th century. The facility has expanded its core business to include recreation and active leisure with its thermal springs and unique mineral water. The Bathouse Goethe, named for the German poet and writer who once visited the spa, contains a café as well as accommodations and a communal mineral bath. The chief accommodation is the Hotel Relax Thermal, a communist-era facility that also includes treatment suites, baths and a dining room with appetising food, all under one roof. Relaxation therapies – massages, baths, wraps, and beauty treatments – are offered to the general public in the building housing the Parenica – a thermal bath that enables visitors to bathe in a cave filled by 42°C hot mineral water. That’s rather hot water. Spa SklenéTeplice is transitioning from a health spa to a relaxation destination. The area offers many activities for those seeking diversions from the spa routine, including sightseeing, cultural events and a beautiful setting. The requisite spa park is not as manicured as some other spa parks, but is quiet and pleasant. The thermal bath in the Parenica cave Photo:AmandaRivkin Photo:courtesyofSpaSklenéTeplice

5 Banská štiavnica X map D 4  47 km / 29 miles (38 min) SW of Banská Bystrica  10,409  Námestie sv. Trojice 6, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 694-9653 www.banskastiavnica.sk 1.6 km / 1 mile SE of centre  2.6 km / 1.6 miles SE of centre  May: Majáles (traditional ball), Festival kumštu, remesla a zábavy (Craft Festival); June: Silver veteran rally; July: Jazznica (Summer Jazz Fest); July: Live Chess; August: Folk & World Music Fest, Unforgotten Crafts; September: Salamander Days; December: Christmas market Banská Štiavnica had its glory days during the height of the Slovak mineral boom in the 18th and 19th centuries. Rich gold and silver veins combined with sophisticated science-based mining technologies led to significant wealth and prestige. The mountain village’s population surged to more than 36,000, then the third largest population centre in the Habsburg Monarchy. As mining prospered, other benefits accrued – the town became the European centre for mining; royalty and academics visited; sciences and technologies related to mining, such as machine engineering, chemistry and forestry, ballooned.With wealth came large, expensive, and beautifully designed buildings, churches and homes. Alas, with the advent of 20th century, the mineral- generated wealth dried up. The changing political, economic, and technology winds of the post-World War II era sapped the town of its textile, shoe, and tobacco industries as well as its technical institutes, leaving a diminished population (hovering around 10,000) and too much empty real estate of a bygone era.While there is interest in turning some of this 18th century real estate into flats or using it for other purposes, the strict government historical reconstruction codes apparently discourage rather than encourage investors. Still, this boomtown gone bust has much going for it. A new generation of post-communist entrepreneurs are busy developing replacement industries. The walk into its town square is an up-hill climb.Tourism and a scattering of the 21st century businesses are chiselling out niches and the prospects for the historic town, which includes monuments in the vicinity on the UNESCO World Heritage List, seem promising. One example is the ERB brewery, a small family-owned microbrewery on Novozámocká Street with 33 employees. Working from the base of a family-owned building in the downtown historical district, the endeavour has a thriving restaurant and a developing distribution network across Slovakia for their draft and hand- bottled beer. Their success is in part attributable to their values. According to Lucia Gašparová, a principal member of the company, “You have to love the town and want to stay there…. Renovations cannot only be about making money – you have to put your heart into renovations”. With their motto, “we do everything ourselves. We want to have everything perfect,” they offer a model to other like-minded Banská Štiavnica residents. Much can be inferred about a town’s self-image from its monuments. HolyTrinity Square in the centre of Banská Štiavnica is dominated by a towering baroque structure memorialising the end of the 1710-11 plague when nearly half of its citizenry perished. Crowned by golden rays, the intricate series of statues boldly announces the town’s wealth to visitors. Set to one side of the main thoroughfare, the square is indeed unique. One of the few European squares with quite a steep incline, it is narrow and long, closed with the gothic St Catherine Church at its base and lined with impressive burgher houses. Many of the buildings on HolyTrinity Square have undergone reconstruction into flats, shops and even a gallery, but heading up the square, the many unreconstructed houses alert the visitor to the town’s fall from glory. central slovakia - banská štiavnica 101 1 4 5 3 2 i Town Hall Old Castle Plague Column of the Holy Trinity Plague Column of the Holy Trinity Gallery of Jozef Kollár Mineralogical exhibition Church of St Catherine

102 central slovakia - banská štiavnica 1 Starý zámok (Old Castle)  Starozámocká 11, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 694-9472  www.muzeumbs.sk Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00 from €3 WC  60 min Climbing the steep hill behind the Holy Trinity Square leads to the Old Castle, the dominant masonry structure near the centre of Banská Štiavnica. Exploring this structure offers the opportunity of understanding how mediaeval towns evolved as well as experiencing a Renaissance defence stronghold. The structure began as a romanesque church, built early in the 13th century as the parish church for this burgeoning mining settlement. Because of its protected location, following the destruction of the royal castle a wall was built around the church with defensive fortifications, ramparts and embrasures. What had been the town church became the town castle and, with gothic and Renaissance reconstructions, remained so until the late 18th century when the threat of Ottoman raids ceased. Visitors are welcome to climb the tower, a late addition, and view the town and surrounding area. One room in the old church serves as an exhibit space for a number of stone statues that were found at various times in the town. Along the back wall a display of filigreed iron crosses is not to be missed. 2 Galéria Jozefa Kollára (Jozef Kollár Art Gallery)  Nám. sv. Trojice 12, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 691-3431   www.muzeumbs.sk  Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00 €2 WC  45 min The Jozef Kollár Art Gallery is located on the Holy Trinity Square in three restored burgher houses dating from the 16th century. Visiting the gallery is at least as much about seeing the interior of Banská Štiavnica’s beautiful burgher houses as it is about viewing the 240 pieces of art native to the region that make up the collection. The museum is on the first floor but the visitor needs to pay close attention to the ground floor and the beautiful carved wood staircases and the panelled ceilings throughout this jewel of a museum. There are essentially three collections. The historic collection includes sculptures of St Barbara and St Catherine, both dating from 1506. The second collection includes many works by the gallery’s namesake, Jozef Kollár (1899–1982). Kollár, one of Slovakia’s most loved modern artists, was a landscape painter known for his free, unrestricted, highly emotional style. A collection of the work of Kollár’s cotemporary, painter Edmund Gwerk (1895–1956), makes up the third part. 3 Berggericht – Mineralogická expozícia (Mineralogical exhibition)  Námestie sv. Trojice 6, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 692-0536   www.muzeumbs.sk  Tue-Sat 9:00-17:00 €2.5  WC  45 min The former mining court called Berggericht houses the mineralogical exhibition showing minerals from around the world and emphasises those from Slovakia. Beneath the building is an actual mine – about 75-metre long – demonstrating techniques to support the shafts, telling the story of underground mining and giving the visitor a sense of the somewhat claustrophobic conditions miners faced. 4 Mestská radnica (Town Hall)  Radničné námestie 1, Banská Štiavnica  exterior views only Dating back to the 14th century, this late gothic, multi-storey block building houses the municipal administration. At one time the building contained the chapel of St Anna, but today the interior is a typical office building. It is hard to actually appreciate Trainstation31min Open-AirMuseum15min Calvary17min J.Augustu Dolná Resla Katova Novozámocká Jaroslava Augustu Strieborná JánaHolléhoMierová HornáResla M.KukučínaNám.sv.Trojice DolnáResla AndrejaSládkoviča Akademická Nám.sv.Trojice Radničné nám. Dolná ružová Hornáružová Antona Pécha Dolnáružová Jána Palárika Horná ružová Malá okružná AndrejaSládkoviča Dolná Resla Novozámocká Strieborná Katova Kammerhofská Kammerhofská Andreja Kmeťa Farská Jána Palárika Akademická N i 3 2 1 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

central slovakia - banská štiavnica 103 the building standing close to it visitors should step away and view the tower with its interesting clock. At first it appears the clock is not working as the time it displays is clearly not accurate. Closer examination reveals that the hands of the clock are reversed – the long hand identifies the hour and the short hand the minute. Legend has it that an apprentice clockmaker made the mistake. When the town’s burghers inspected the work, it was after lunch and all had drunk too much to notice the error. 5 Kostol sv. Kataríny (Church of St Catherine)  Radničné námestie 17, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)902 283-286  Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00 Sun 14:00-19:00  booking necessary  special occasions only voluntary Built between 1488 and 1491 in late gothic style, the Church of St Catherine stands next to the Town Hall. The church is notably unchanged from how it looked when it was built, maintaining its architectural integrity, probably because it was completed so quickly. This is unusual for buildings of this time period. The interior is light and airy, accomplishing the goal of gothic architects to emphasise the imminence of God and heaven. The beautifully ribbed vaulted ceiling is especially striking as is the central altar. This structure replaced the original late gothic altar (two of the exquisitely wood-carved statues can be seen in the Gallery of Jozef Kollár) after 1725 and is a notable example of early baroque church architecture. The late gothic carved stone baptistery illustrated the mastery of stone masons from this era. 6 Klopačka (Clapper)  Andreja Sládkoviča 7, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)905 980-499 www.klopacka.com  Mon-Sun 10:00-24:00free WC The Clapper, or Klopačka in Slovak, got its name from a wooden board which was used to call miners to work by clapping on it. The lower part of this building, with a tower completed in 1681 in the baroque and Renaissance style, was used to imprison miners sentenced by the Mining Court. Today it holds a popular tea house. Standing on the slope above the town it offers a spectacular view over the roofs of Banská Štiavnica, including the Calvary. 7 Nový zámok (New Castle)  Novozámocká 22, Banská Štiavnica; 0.6 km / 0.4 mile (10 min) SE of Town Hall +421 (0)45 691-1543  www.muzeumbs.sk  Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00 €2  WC The best view of Banská Štiavnica’s centre and environs is unquestionably from the top of the watchtower christened the New Castle. Built in 1564-1571 to protect the town from the Ottoman invasions and hardly a castle at all (despite its corner bastions and cannon embrasures), the building now houses a unique collection of weapons and defence equipment. One of its six floors is devoted to a graphic explanation of the Ottoman invasions, especially in the mining districts of present- day Slovakia, and includes a large map. Another has wood plaques illustrated with drawings of the Ottomans and war materials. These plaques were used as targets for musket balls, and the numerous holes can be seen today. Each floor offers a gallery of windows welcoming photographers and geographers trying to make sense of the town\'s topography. Located several hundred metres above the town centre, it is a good location for starting (or ending) a tour of Banská Štiavnica. Beneath the New Castle there is a reconstructed historical Jewish cemetery. New Castle ChurchofStCatherineandTownHall

104 central slovakia - banská štiavnica 8 Štôlňa Glanzenberg (Glanzenberg Hereditary Adit) city map page 102  Kammerhofská 20, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 692-0535   50 min www.muzeumbs.sk  Tue-Fri 12:00 Sat 10:00, 12:00, 14:00 (booking necessary) €4 WC Another historical structure open for visitors in the town is the Glanzenberg adit used to drain away water from local mines. It is one of the oldest in the region and known for prominent visitors noted on plaques. While its entrance is on Kammerhofská Street, the tour ends at the Kaufhaus shaft just below St Catherine’s. 9 Kostol nanebovzatia Panny Márie (Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary) city map page 102  Jána Palárika 7, B. Štiavnica +421 (0)45 692-1856 www.banskastiavnica.sk  Jul-Aug: Mon-Sat 9:00-17:00, Sun 14:17  Sat 9:00-17:00  Tue-Thu 7:30 Fri-Sat 18:05 Sun 7:30, 10:30 voluntary This originally romanesque structure is known as the Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary or, to residents of Banská Štiavnica, the German or parish church. The complexity of the three-nave structure makes the building very interesting to architectural historians. For casual visitors, a view of the interior, which did not escape reconstruction in the classicist style due to an 1806 fire, is well worth seeing if the church is open. The richly carved wooden pews and pulpit date from this period. 10 Kammerhof – Expozícia baníctva (Mining exposition) city map page 102  Kammerhofská 2, Banská Štiavnica +421 (0)45 694-9418  WC www.muzeumbs.sk Tue-Sat 9:00-17:00 €2 The Kammerhof, dating back to the 13th century, is the former seat of the mining board of management and now the headquarters of the Slovak Mining Museum, sheltering all the main museums in the town. It hosts a permanent exhibition dedicated to Slovakia’s mining history featuring models of unique mining machines. Kalvária (Calvary)  Pod Kalváriou, Banská Štiavnica2 km / 1.2 miles (32 min) NE of Town Hall +421 (0)45 694- 9653 www.kalvaria.org non-stop free Štiavnica’s most beautiful jewel was designed by Jesuit priest Franz Perger. The striking mountainside Calvary is grand, culminating in three churches, 19 chapels and a sculpture of the Virgin Mary spread across a steep hill just outside the city. Working with the municipal leaders and the Holy Roman Emperor Francis I, funding was guaranteed. Designed as a symbolic depiction, the whole complex depicts the Christian passion from the Last Supper to the crucifixion and resurrection and Seven Sorrows of the Virgin Mary. The symmetry of the two intersecting paths weaving up the hillside, interrupted by a series of beautifully decorated chapels and pavilions, reflect the 18th century aesthetic of balance and order. Today the baroque Calvary, having experienced vandalism and neglect, is under extensive reconstruction. A significant part of the work has been already done. The lovely Calvary offers to the contemporary traveller not only a glimpse into Banská Štiavnica’s glory days, but also a quiet and contemplative experience well worth the somewhat arduous climb. Banské múzeum v prírode (Open-Air Mining Museum)   J.K. Hella 12, Banská Štiavnica1.5 km / 0.9 mile (22 min) SW of Town Hall +421 (0)45 691-2971 www.muzeumbs.sk Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:00-18:00, May-Jun, Sep: Tue-Sun 9:00-17:00 (entry every hour) €5  WC  90 min Plenty of monuments in the town recall its mining heritage, mostly in a network of sites that comprise the Slovak Mining Museum. Among them is the Open-Air Mining Museum, located just outside the town centre, where visitors are given hard-hats, plastic coats and torches which are quite helpful when walking 40 metres below the ground. During an hour-long tour, one can see many pictures of the mine during its most productive era, including images of the miners themselves (often naked because of the unbearable heat). Brave visitors can spot bats, hear many mining stories or find themselves directly beneath a lake. Be careful not to stroll too far away from the group; visitors are warned they might never be found again. One of the sculptures of the Calvary

central slovakia 105 6 svätýanton W map D 4  53 km / 32.9 miles (46 min) SW of Banská Bystrica  1,217   September: Days of St Hubert Kaštieľ (Manor Hause)  Svätý Anton +421 (0)45 691-3932  www.msa.sk  Apr-Jun, Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 9:00 -16:00, Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:30  Nov-Mar: Tue-Sat 8:00-15:00 from €5  (partly) WC 60 (small tour only) 90 Even 250 years after it was built, one can feel the powerful vibes of the wealthy Koháry and Coburg families who lived in the Svätý Anton manor house. Walking up to the steep entrance from the car park below, the house appears to preside over the town from its lofty position. Located 6 kilometres south of Banská Štiavnica, this baroque mansion was originally designed to illustrate a calendar: four entrances representing each season, 12 chimneys for each month, 52 rooms for each week, and 365 windows for each day. Because some of these features were destroyed during the 19th century renovations, visitors should not be obsessed with counting their way through. What wasn’t destroyed is the impressive collection of 18th and 19th century furniture: almost all of it is original to the house. One notable exception is the gilded furniture manufactured by French master Georg Jacob and the silk upholstery manufactured by Phillip de la Salle in the Gold Lounge. Maria Theresa gave it to her daughter, Marie Antoinette, as a wedding present. This furniture was purchased in 1935 at an auction in Paris by the house’s last owner, Ferdinand Coburg, and is a must-see. About 80 percent of the rooms are set up the same way as when the families lived in the house. Highlights include a changing room with wallpaper made of newspaper caricatures and a simple oak table with original drawings painted by Ferdinand Coburg. The table is filled with drawings of butterflies and flowers, and functions as a testament to his travels around Slovakia – each drawing is labelled with the date he saw it. These exquisite drawings began when he was 16 and ended when he was 73 years old. These owners not only lived in grandeur, they also prayed in it. The chapel’s baroque illusionist frescoes by Austrian painter Anton Schmidt (who lived in Banská Štiavnica) are especially noteworthy. The chapel is in service only once a year – the Sunday closest to the Feast of the Assumption (August 15) when one can rent it for a wedding or christening. For those whose interests lie in the out-of-doors, there is also a hunting exposition. There are 1,000 hunting trophies from the local area as well as abroad. Children will also enjoy the dioramas of stuffed animals. There is a distinct museum feel to this touring experience. If there is no tour guide who speaks English, a printed English translation is available. There are two tours available: a 60-minute tour highlights the furniture and a 90-minute tour adds the hunting exposition and chapel. It is worth the time and money to take the second option. The Svätý Anton manor house was designed to illustrate a calendar The chapel is decorated with baroque illusionist frescoes

106 central slovakia 7 dudince (spa)  page 224 8 Bzovík (castle ruins)  page 202 9 krupina map E 4  51 km / 32 miles (42 min) SW of Banská Bystrica  8,046  Svätotrojičné nám. 5, Krupina +421 (0)918 869-100 www.krupina.sk  Strážna veža Vartovka (Watchtower Vartovka)  standing on the hill Stražavár near Krupina – follow blue signs from the centre of Krupina; 1.8 km / 1.1 miles SE of the centre of Krupina  non-stop free The territory of Krupina has been inhabited for more than 5,000 years and has experienced a dramatic series of ups and downs. Krupina is one of the oldest towns in Slovakia, having obtained the privileges of a free royal town in the first half of the 13th century. The town flourished due to its position on the route known as Via Magna, which connected it with Krakow, as well as for its deposits of gold and silver, which ran out in the 14th century. During attacks by the Ottomans, Krupina suffered considerable damage, and to prevent further destruction, the town built fortification walls with two main gates. Around 1564, watchtowers were added, one of which, Vartovka, on Stražavár hill, survives to this day. Recently restored, it offers beautiful views over the town centre and the surrounding countryside of the Štiavnické vrchy mountains and the Krupinská planina plateau. Ottomans never conquered Krupina, but in the 18th century a plague hit the town and about 2,000 people perished. The parish church with three preserved romanesque naves was built around 1220, and its fortifications rank among Krupina’s most valuable monuments. The market square boasts a baroque column of the HolyTrinity from the workshop of Dionýz Stanetti, a significant artist active in Banská Štiavnica. Krupina is also the birthplace of prominent Slovak poet Andrej Sládkovič. 10 zaježová (eco-village)  page 272 11 zvolen map E 4  21 km / 13 miles (20 min) S of Banská Bystrica  43,318  Námestie SNP 21/31, Zvolen +421 (0)45 542-9268 www.zvolen.sk  1 km / 0.6 mile SW of centre  June: Days of roses in the Arboretum Borová Hora Zvolen, one of the oldest towns in Slovakia, lies in the heart of central Slovakia. In 1238 it was one of the first places in the Kingdom of Hungary to be granted town privileges and still retains the right to bear its own coat of arms. There are two castles in the area, Zvolen Castle – a former hunting lodge for King Louis the Great of Anjou – and another castle called Pustý hrad (the Deserted Castle), which is now a ruin. A spacious square in the centre of town is called the Square of the Slovak National Uprising (SNP). Within the square are two interesting sites, the Church of St Elizabeth and a huge sculpture called the Shepherd’s Hatchet. The entire square is lined with Renaissance and baroque burgher houses. In a park below the castle there is a replica of an armoured train that workers assembled during the SNP to aid the partisans in their battles with the Nazis. The town is also the site of theTechnical University in Zvolen. Zvolenský zámok (Zvolen Castle)  Námestie SNP 594/1, Zvolen +421 (0)45 532-1903 www.sng.sk  Wed-Sun 10:00-17:30 €€2.70   WC Zvolen Castle is the dominant feature in the town. It was built in the gothic style in the 14th century and towers above the town centre. It once served as a hunting lodge for King Louis the Great of Anjou and later had many notable owners, including Matthias Corvinus, Jan Jiskra of Brandýs and György Thurzo. King Louis’ daughter Mary chose the castle as the place to announce her betrothal to Sigismund of Luxemburg. Reconstruction in the 16th century was necessitated by the threat from the Ottoman Empire, but neither the castle nor the town was overrun. The castle was reconstructed in the Renaissance style. The chapel was rebuilt in baroque in the 18th century. After the regional administrative seat was relocated to Banská Bystrica in 1789, the castle lost its significance and in 1805 the Eszterházy family sold it to the state. Its empty rooms were used variously as a court, a jail and for tobacco storage. Extensive reconstruction began in 1957 but was not completed until 1969. The castle has regained its gothic/Renaissance look, and was listed as a national cultural monument in 1961.Today, the castle boasts a gallery of early Days of roses in Zvolen WatchtowerVartovkaZvolenCastle

central slovakia 107 European masters and byzantine icons and has been a branch of the Slovak National Gallery since 1965. In summer, a popular theatre festival called Zvolen Castle Plays takes place in the courtyard. The castle is also available for concerts and weddings. Kostol sv. Alžbety (Church of St Elizabeth)  Námestie SNP 68/40, Zvolen +421 (0)45 533-2122entrance hall  Mon-Fri 6:00, 12:00, 17:00 Sat 6:30, 18:00; Sun 7:00, 9:00 18:00voluntary  The Roman Catholic Church of St Elizabeth is one of the oldest buildings in Zvolen. It was constructed in late romanesque and early gothic styles in the 13th century. The first mention of the church is from 1244, when the King Béla IV granted the people of Zvolen the right to elect their priests. Later the church underwent several reconstructions. In the 14th and 15th century, it was used as a rectory, a poorhouse, a school, a town hall and a jail. The tower and the baroque chapel were constructed later. The church’s interior was altered in a neo-gothic style in the 19th century. The stained glass in the sanctuary dates to 1935. Today, it serves as a parish church and still holds regular services. Pustý hrad (Deserted Castle - ruins)  Pod Dráhami 2292/21, Zvolen (3.4 km / 2.1 miles S of the train station – the blue tourist sign) www.pustyhrad.com non-stop free  The ruins of the Old Zvolen Castle, which is the original name of the Deserted Castle, are located in the southern part of Zvolen above the confluence of the Hron and Slatina Rivers. The thick forests on the hill have yet to reveal all their secrets, but archaeologists have nonetheless uncovered a massive fortified complex indicating that the castle dates back to the 12th century and was once one of the largest castles in central Europe. It was built to protect two important mediaeval routes. The Deserted Castle was once a regional centre and even served as a county seat. The buildings of Old Zvolen Castle were destroyed by a fire during the reign of János Hunyadi and the castle has been a ruin ever since. Reconstructions of parts of the castle have been underway since 1992. The site draws many tourists eager to experience the beautiful views from the hill. 12 sliač (flights,spa, golf)  pages 269, 224, 275 13 Hronsek (wooden church)  page 108 14 zvolenská slatina (traditional food)  page 238 15 zámok vígľaš (castle) map E 4  38 km / 24 miles (34 min) SE of Banská Bystrica  Zámocká 602, Vígľaš   www.zamokviglas.com  exterior views only (the castle is under reconstruction; hotel has opened in mid September 2014) While the origins of Vígľaš Castle are not known, there are indications that it was built by crusaders in the 13th century. Later, it served as a hunting lodge for the Hungarian kings. Matthias Corvinus was known to hunt in these woods. Fortified during the incursions from the Ottomans in the 16th century, the castle formed a significant role in the defence of the area. During World War II Vígľaš was occupied by the Nazi German forces, and in 1945 it was badly damaged in a fire. The condition of the castle steadily deteriorated until 2010 when a private investor bought the castle grounds and began a renovation with a plan to open a four-star hotel on the site. Reconstructed, it will include a chapel which will be open to the public. The hotel has opened for business in September 2014. 16 slatinské lazy (army training)  page 270 17 detva map E 4  50 km / 31 miles (46 min) SE od Banská Bystrica  15,046  M. R. Štefánika 3214/2E, Detva +421 (0)45 545-9087 www.detva.sk    Folklórne slávnosti pod Poľanou (Folklore Festival under Poľana) www.fspdetva.sk  Jul  depends on performances Every year on the second weekend of July, Detva hosts a festival of traditional Slovak folklore, Folklórne slávnosti pod Poľanou (Folklore Festival under Poľana), in its amphitheatre on Sládkovičova Street. The event features musical and dance performances by ensembles from around the world and has been held regularly since 1966. It draws more than 1,000 performers. Besides the performances there are workshops where visitors can try singing, dancing and playing some of the unique musical folk instruments. The festival includes an offering of traditional folklore crafts. Detva is also noted for its own folkloric costumes. The men’s attire consists of loose trousers with a low-cut shirt that covers only about a third of the chest. Because of this unusual ensemble, Detva males are called holopupkári, which means men with bare bellies. Folkloric costumes from Detva Detvahasrichfolkloretraditions

108 central slovakia 13 Hronsek W map E 4  13 km / 8 miles (15 min) S of Banská Bystrica  638 www.hronsek.sk   Wooden Articular Church  A. H. Krčméryho 7, Hronsek +421 (0)48 418- 8165 www.drevenykostolik.sk  Mon-Sun 9:00–17:00 (booking recommended)  Sundays 9:00 voluntary The Evangelical church in Hronsek, built entirely from wood with no nails, is one of eight wooden structures of Slovakia that was added to UNESCO’s World Heritage List in 2008. The church was completed in 1726. Its name, Drevený artikulárny, is derived from drevený (Slovak for wooden) and articular (or articled) referring to articles adopted in 1681 in Sopron, Hungary, which gave Protestants the right to build churches, albeit with a number of restrictions. The church can hold more than a thousand people on benches arranged as in an amphitheatre, thus providing a view of the altar for all. The church is easy to find as many road signs have been posted to mark the way. Hronsek\'s wooden church reflects an influence of Scandinavian wooden buildings and it still serves as a house of worship. Masses are held regularly as well as special events such as weddings, funerals and christenings. Near the church are four approximately 250-year- old lime trees planted when the church was built. 18 poľana map E 4  60 km / 37 miles (55 min) SE of Banská Bystrica Hriňová  +421 (0)45 533-4834 www.chkopolana.eu Poľana is the highest volcanic mountain in Slovakia and one of the biggest inactive volcanoes in Europe. It is part of the Carpathian arch. The administration centre for Poľana is in Zvolen. Established in 1981 as one of the 14 Slovak protected landscape areas, Poľana has since 1990 been a biosphere reserve of UNESCO. One of its peaks, known as Hrb, is the geographical centre of Slovakia. Hrb lies on the northern rim of Poľana. Because of its volcanic origin the mountain offers many unusual formations such as Kaľamárka, Melich’s Rock, and Jánošík’s Rock. In the valley Bystré there is a wonderful 23-metre waterfall flowing down the rock in a series of steps. Poľana also offers various hiking trails and a 128-km cycling track around the mountain.

central slovakia 109 19 modrý kameň map E 5  75 km / 47 miles (67 min) SE of Banská Bystrica 1,555 +421 (0)47 487-0076 www.modrykamen.sk  Modrý Kameň Hrad (Castle)  Zámocká 1, Modrý Kameň +421 (0)47 487- 0218  www.snm.sk  May-Jun, Sep-Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00; Nov-Apr: Mon-Fri 9:00-14:00 €4.5   (partly) WC 60 Modrý Kameň, a 1,500-person town, features a curious hodge- podge of exhibitions including the Museum of Puppet Culture and Toys in its castle. The museum offers a unique insight into Slovak childhood of all eras and all social classes. While children of the 20th century aristocracy could serve tea in china cups to their extravagantly- clothed dolls, the more prosaic and authentically battered hand-carved wooden toys are far more charming. There is a wide selection of rocking horses, corn dolls, children’s shoes, chunky guns, and bows and arrows, constructed sturdily enough to be passed through multiple generations. The collection of puppets and marionettes is equally diverse, bringing together exhibits from various Slovak and international puppet troupes. Another of Modrý Kameň’s eclectic exhibitions is that of dental technology through the life of František Kuska (1865-1934), Slovakia’s first dentist. Along with portraits of Kuska and his three dentist sons, visitors might shiver at the sight of dentists’ chairs, false teeth, dental textbooks, skulls and a manually powered drill. Completing the juxtaposition of exhibitions at Modrý Kameň is a small ethnographic museum, with the usual collection of farm implements, cottage furniture and traditional Slovak dress, as well as two rooms commemorating the life and work of Bálint Balassi (1554- 1594), a notable Hungarian poet and author, whose family owned the castle. 20 dolná streHová (aquapark)  page 263 21 lučenec map F 4  81 km / 50 miles (72 min) SE of Banská Bystrica  28,475  Tomáša Garrigue Masaryka 14, Lučenec  +421 (0)47 433-1513 www.lucenec.sk 0.5 km / 0.3 mile NE of centre  0.9 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre  July: No- vohrad folklore festival; August: Aerogule (petanque competition); December: Half marathon Židovská synagóga (Jewish synagogue)  Adyho 4, Lučenec +421 (0)47 433-1513 (information centre) exterior views only Novohradské múzeum a galéria (Novohrad Museum and Gallery)  Kubányiho nám. 3, Lučenec +421 (0)47 433-2397   www.nmg.sk  Tue-Wed Fri 9:00-17:00, Thu 9:00-18:00, Sun 14:00-17:00 €1.5 WC A pelican pecking a hole in its own breast to feed its three chicks with its blood – that’s what most people remember who have seen the coat of arms of Lučenec. The first historical mention of Lučenec dates back to 1128 when first a chapel and then a monastery were built at a trading crossroads. The town has managed to preserve several religious buildings that tourists enjoy today: the Roman Catholic church built in 1783, the Evangelical church in 1784 and the Calvinist church in 1853. The large Jewish synagogue featuring elements of Byzantine and secession style, is one of Lučenec’s most impressive landmarks. It was built in 1925, for the then 2,088-strong Jewish community, but was abandoned after 1944. During the communist regime it was used for storage. Like many towns in Slovakia, before World War II the city had a considerable Jewish population, but following the Holocaust, the Jewish community never recovered in size or influence. Neither the city nor its cultural organisations have as yet found the money to reconstruct the building, designed by Hungarian architect Lipót Baumhorn. In 2014, the city announced new plans to pursue a project of reconstruction of the synagogue. Part of downtown Lučenec has been declared a historical monument area to acknowledge the historical and architectural value of its churches and five mansions, including the Reduta, which was built in 1810 to serve as a cultural centre.Today, after a massive reconstruction, it is the home of the town’s best hotel. The Town Hall, built in 1894, and the 400-year-old Hungarian secondary school are also part of the area. Those who hunger for culture can visit the Novohrad Museum and Gallery, founded in 1955, and learn of the region’s extensive handcrafts traditions. Lučenec also has a small airport in Boľkovce. Less elegant is the Zlatá Ulička (Golden Street) shopping precinct, off Masarykova, which fails to live up to its name. It is an already- fading example of 1990s kitsch populated by a curious selection of tenants and vacant lots. Back in 1998 a plan was announced to build a 40-storey building, which never came about. Nevertheless, today a pair of tall buildings define Lučenec’s skyline. Marionette from Modrý Kameň JewishsynagogueinLučenecLučenec’sskyscraper

110 central slovakia 22 rapovce (aquapark)  page 263 23 Fiľakovo map F 4  94 km / 58 miles (80 min) SE of Banská Bystrica  10,817  Podhradská 14, Fiľakovo +421 (0)47 438-2016 www.filakovo.sk  June: Fiľakovo Historic Castle Games Hradné múzeum (Castle Museum)  Hlavná 14, Fiľakovo (castle is accessible from the Podhradská Street) +421 (0)47 438-2017  www.hradfilakovo.sk  Mar-Nov: Mon-Sun 10:00- 18:00 (last entry to museum 17:00)  booking necessary €3 (castle), €0.7 (museum)  (museum only) WC  45 min (museum) The landscape of Fiľakovo, a town of 10,800 inhabitants located around 17 kilometres from Lučenec, is dominated by a castle perched on a volcanic rock formation some 65 metres above the town. Fiľakovo Castle was originally built as a wooden structure in the 13th century, but was recast in stone during the Ottoman invasions making it one of the first stone castles in what is now Slovakia. The castle, one of a line of borderland castles, is mostly in ruins today, but several significant parts have been preserved, the most famous of which is the Bebek bastion. Indeed, the history of the castle highlights the name of the Bebek family under which the most significant parts of the castle were built, including the bastion, which today hosts a museum. Fiľakovo Castle managed to pique interest as far away asTurkey and it might well be that in the future Turkish tourists will visit to see the northernmost reaches of the former Ottoman Empire. The Ottoman troops controlled the castle between 1554 and 1593, making Fiľakovo the Ottoman Empire’s only Sanjak (county) seat in Slovakia’s current territory. Fiľakovo has established contacts with theTurkish city of Edirne. 24 Hrad šomoška (Šomoška Castle - ruins) map F 5  110 km / 68 miles (104 min) SE of Banská Bystrica Šiatorská Bukovinka 4 km / 2.4 miles NW of the castle  5 km / 3 miles NW of the castle  on the Slovak-Hungarian border, above the village of Somoskő on the Hungarian side, and Šiatorská Bukovinka on the Slovak side non-stop free The ruins of the remote Šomoška Castle straddle the Slovak- Hungarian border, above the village of Somoskő on the Hungarian side, and Šiatorská Bukovinka on the Slovak side. Reached from Slovakia only via a trail through a beechwood forest, the castle was originally built at the end of the 13th century, and expanded in the 16th century. Now, it looks as though it were put together by balancing chunky rocks on top of one another with only a minimum of binding. A stone sea and stone waterfall are two of the most interesting geological features along the traipse up to the castle. These are best described as precisely that: a wide sea of rocks deposited on the hillside by prehistoric upheavals, and a four-million-year-old waterfall formed when lava from a volcano hardened on its descent. The ruin itself is in remarkable condition, crowned by a two-storey main tower with apertures looking out on the Hungarian village just below. A necessary word of warning: this is not a place to bring children. The winds can be strong and there are some very steep drops, without any guardrails, onto jagged rocks. 25 rimavská soBota map F 4  107 km / 67 miles (89 min) SE of Banská Bystrica  24,640  Hlavné námestie 2, Rimavská Sobota +421 (0)47 562-3645 www.rimavskasobota.sk 1 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre  0.9 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre  May: Days of Rimavská Sobota Kostol sv. Jána Krstiteľa (Church of St John the Baptist)  Hlavnénámestie1,RimavskáSobota +421 (0)47563-1031www.rimavskasobota.sk entrancehall Mon-Sat6:30,16:00,17:00Sun 7:00,8:00,9:30,11:00,17:00voluntary Gemersko-malohontskémúzeum (Gemer-MalohontMuseum) Nám.MihályaTompu5,RimavskáSobota+421 (0)47563-2741  www.gmmuzeum.sk Apr-Sep:Mon-Fri8:00-16:00,Sat-Sun9:00-16:00  Jan-Mar,Oct-Dec:Mon-Fri8:00-16:00€2  WC Rimavská Sobota’s past is full of hard luck. Whenever this southern Slovak town looked like it might flourish, it was put firmly back in its place by fate, whether in the form of a huge blaze in 1506, an invasion by the Ottoman army in 1553 or a cholera epidemic in 1831. Rimavská Sobota, or Rimaszombat in Hungarian, emerged in the second half of the 11th century around a marketplace and the Church of St John the Baptist. The oldest written mention of the town Rymoa Zumbota comes from 1271. The town received its Hungarian town privileges in 1335 and gained historical importance during peace negotiations between Czech and Hungarian combatants at the end of the Hussite era in the 15th century. Occupation by the Ottoman army (1553-1593 and 1596-1686) over Photo:EmanueleTerenzaniFiľakovoCastle(Photo:TASR)

central slovakia 111 almost 130 years left a unique collection of 256 Ottoman letters and documents linked mostly to the tax duties of the locals. Rimavská Sobota features several sacred buildings, including the Church of John the Baptist, built on the site of an original gothic church featuring a notable painting entitled The Beheading of John the Baptist. This is cited as the best work of Vincenz Fischer, an Austrian painter. The main square boasts a town hall, which dates from 1801, and the old French- style shire hall, which today serves as a library. The former military infantry barracks today house the Gemer-Malohont Museum. Its main attraction is the mummy of an Egyptian woman from the 21st -26th and ruling dynasty from the period 1087-664 BC. 26 číž (spa)  page 224 27 cHyžné (gothic church)  page 212 28 šumiac map F 3  84 km / 52 miles (51 min) NE of Banská Bystrica  1,349 www.sumiac.sk  Múzeum zvoncov (Museum of Bells)  Bučinka 23, Šumiac +421 (0)48 618-1232  booking necessary  If bells are your thing, then a treat awaits you in Šumiac, a village in the foothills of the LowTatras. There, beneath Kráľova hoľa mountain, is a family museum containing no fewer than 2,000 of them. Not church bells, instead, the kind that shepherds attach to their sheep and cattle. They come from all over the world: Switzerland, Japan, Egypt, Mexico and Australia are all represented. Accompanying them are a collection of musical instruments, sheepskin coats, shepherds’ leather belts, and antique folk costumes. The museum is as much about its owner, the redoubtable Mikuláš Gigac, as his bells. He is a unique individual, often decked out in full folk costume and wielding a traditional musical instrument fujara (with intent). 29 muránska planina map F 3  85 km / 53 miles (88 min) E of Banská Bystrica Muráň   Muráň 355 +421 (0)917 217-029 www.npmp.sk Area: 203.2 km2 €; Highest point: Stolica (1,476 m / 4,842.5 ft)  July/August: Rodeo Muráň (horse riding and country music festival) Hrad Muráň (Muráň Castle - ruins) map F 3  87 km / 54.2 miles (99 min) NE of Banská Bystrica  4.3 km / 2.7 miles SW of castle Muráň  non-stop Salaš Zbojská map F 3  55 km / 34.2 miles (35 min) NE of Banská Bystrica  Pohronská Polhora  Hlavná 62, Pohronská Polhora +421 (0)911 355-000 www.zbojska.sk Mon-Sun 10:00-21:00   WC Wild horses grazing freely on meadows located in one of the greenest spots of the country: Welcome to National Park Muránska planina, which includes a mountainous ridge about 28 km long and 26 km wide, surrounded by a number of towns and villages on what amounts to a beltway. The highway, however, is anything but an interstate. The central tourist attraction, Muráň Castle, requires an hour’s walk up a steep 6.5 km / 3.7 miles trail that starts from Muráň. The reward for the climb is an authentic ruin. There are no tour guides or reconstructed courtyards with armoured combatants entertaining children. There is a crumbling entrance gate, some crumbling bulwarks and the outline of a foundation for the 13th century fortress. Muráň Castle, built to withstand the maraudingTartars, ranks as Slovakia’s third highest castle at 938 metres above sea level, and is situated on the cliff of Cigánka hill. Rebuilt in the 16th century, the castle fell into ruin after a 1702 fire and remains a destination for hikers and a perfect site for avid photographers – not so much to take pictures of the castle but of the stunning vistas surrounding this rock-topped mountain. More sedentary tourists may enjoy a drive around the park, although this is only permitted with a special pass from the park administrator’s office, located in Revúca. Another option are tours on a horse-drawn carriage available from the Veľká Lúka stud farm which is accessed from Muráň by a tourist path beyond Muráň Castle. Salaš Zbojská on the west end of the park (on the 530 road) offers a good starting place both to get a taste of central-Slovak mountain life with a helpful information kiosk that sells sheep cheese and a folksy eatery featuring traditional mountain food. From there, the drive to Tisovec and back up to Muráň (where there is another information office), delivers both stunning vistas and a sense of undeveloped, rural central Slovakia. 30 tisovec (historical railway)  page 287 31 micHalová (agritourism)  page 239 Museum of bells in Šumiac Photo:AmandaRivkinNationalParkMuránskaplanina

112 central slovakia 32 čierny Balog W map E 3  50 km / 31 miles (46 min) E of Banská Bystrica  5,227 www.ciernybalog.sk   Čiernohronská železnica (historical railway)  Hlavná 56, Čierny Balog +421 (0)48 619-1500 www.chz.sk  May-Sep: Mon-Sun 9:00-18:00; Oct- -Apr booking necessary from €5   WC Čierny Balog is one of the largest villages in Slovakia. It sprawls from the southern Horehronie region in the Čierny Hron valley, all the way to the Slovenské rudohorie mountain range. The first written mention of the village is from 1607. Since Čierny Balog is surrounded by forests, most of its history is connected with the timber industry. The Dobroč primaeval forest, one of the oldest in Europe, has been officially protected since 1913. To walk in this unique forest is an intriguing experience. Nestled among the forests in the Vydrovská dolina valley, less than a kilometre from the village, the Forestry Open- Air Museum offers a three-kilometre ‘path of the forest time’ with almost 80 stations with information about the forest and the work of foresters. Vydrovo is also the site of numerous events. The most popular attraction in Čierny Balog is the historic narrow-gauge Čiernohronská railway. This railroad, designed to transport timber out of the forest, was built in 1908. It runs from the Hronec village to Čierny Balog. The first steam train began operating on a 10-kilometre track in 1909. At one point, the railway was 132 kilometres long and operated in the adjacent valleys. The government shut the railway down in 1982, but it was reopened in 1992 as a tourist attraction.Today, during the peak season, visitors can take the historical ride from Chvatimech (located next to the main road from Banská Bystrica to Brezno) to the railway station and a small museum in Čierny Balog and finish the trip in the open-air museum in Vydrovo. During the summer, it is also possible to take a ride on a steam-driven train. 33 Brezno map E 3  45 km / 28 miles (39 min) NE of Ban- ská Bystrica  21,894 Nám. gen. M. R. Štefánika 3, Brezno +421 (0)48 611-4221 www.brezno.skNovember:Ondrej’smarket Horehronské múzeum (Horehronie Museum)  Námestie gen. M. R. Štefánika 55/47, Brezno +421 (0)48 611-2453 Mon-Fri 8:00-16:00 www.horehronskemuzeum.sk€1  90 mins Located almost precisely in the centre of Slovakia, Brezno is the heart of the Horehronie region. It is surrounded by the hills of Slovenské rudohorie to the south and the LowTatras to the north. This location makes the town a great starting point for hiking or visiting other interesting spots in the area. The Hron River, ideal for rafting, flows through the town. Brezno was first mentioned in 1265, but bronze artefacts indicate that it was inhabited as far back as 1250 BC. In the 16th century, the town was besieged by the Ottomans, but according to a legend, a knight named Bombura saved the day and defeated the invading armies.Today the name Bombura remains in the town’s sign as well as in the name of its popular alternative-music club. During the 20th century, Brezno was an industrial town with a thriving steel industry. In the town’s centre, the rectangular M. R. Štefánik Square is ringed by several historical buildings, including the Roman Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary and the regional Horehronie Museum. In the middle of the square you can’t miss the historical city tower. One of the most important traditional events in Brezno is Ondrej’s market at the end of November. 34 Bystrianska jaskyňa (Bystrianska Cave) map E 3  40 km / 24.6 miles (35 min) NE of Banská Bystrica Bystrá, jaskyňa (0.2 km / 0.1 mile SE of the cave)   The cave’s entrance is about 120 metres from the car park +421 (0)48 619-5133 www.ssj.sk Jan-May, Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 9:30- 14:00 (entrance every 90 min); Jun-Aug: Tue-Sun 9:00-16:00 (entrance every hour)  €5    WC The Bystrianska Cave is one of the smaller Slovak caves that is open to the public. The fantastic shapes of the rock and the promise of speleo-therapeutic treatments make it one of the main tourist attractions in the southern Low Tatras. The cave’s total length is more than 3,531 metres, of which tourists can see 580 metres. It was created by the underground section

central slovakia 113 of the Bystrianka River, which flows in from the southern slopes of the LowTatras. Over the centuries, the water and minerals have created an interesting deposit in the cave called Baldachin, which resembles bats’ ears. The entrance to the cave lies on the outskirts of the village of Bystrá on the road from Podbrezová to Liptovský Hrádok. It takes five minutes to walk up from the parking lot to the entrance. 35 tále W map E 3 45 km / 28 miles (40 min) NE of Banská Bystrica +421 (0)48 671-2512 www.tale.sk  (golf course) Apr-Oct: Mon-Sun 9:00- 18:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Sun 8:00-20:00; (ski resort) Dec-Mar: Mon-Sun 9:00-16:00 Fri-Sat night skiing 18:00-21:00 from €30 (golf); from €13 (skiing)   WC Tále, a popular area for skiing in the winter, becomes a hub for hikers during the summer. Located 45 kilometres from Banská Bystrica, it is a great place for hiking, sports and relaxation. Built in 2002, Gray Bear is an 18-hole master golf course open to both amateurs and professionals. Swimming is available in an open-air pool. There is a rope-climbing park. For the more adventurous, a hike to the Dead Bats’ Cave might be just the thing. Well known in the international golf community, Gray Bear has attracted a number of prestigious European tournaments including the European Seniors and the LPGA.The course fans out from the clubhouse with fairways running up the mountain and then back down. Both the front and the back nine each offer two of these out and in circuits. Each hole trumpets its own personality, sometimes wide open, sometimes foxy and treacherous, and yet other times, narrow and twisty. The course favours those who handle their middle irons authoritatively. Approaches to the greens are guarded by hazards including sand traps, rock outcroppings, and a bevy of young but growing pines and hardwoods. Once the golfer achieves the dance floor, the heavily contoured and often multi-level greens resist an easy up and down. And then there is the distraction of wildlife sightings and the ever present vista of rolling hills and greener than green forests. All in all, it is a delightfully challenging golfing experience. Gray Bear has two hotels on the property, a pleasant outdoor terrace restaurant, a fully-stocked pro shop, and golf bag and electric cart rentals – although the course’s materials promote itself as a walking course. There is also a golf academy, driving range, and putting and pitching greens. 36 jaskyňa mŕtvycH netopierov (Dead Bats’ Cave) W map E 3  51 km / 31 miles (47 min) NE of Banská Bystrica Trangoška (2.3 km / 1.4 miles W of the cave)  +421 (0)905 135-535 www.jmn.sk  booking necessary  from €8   WC In addition to caves run by the Slovak Cave Administration (SSJ), there are several privately managed caves in Slovakia that tend to offer visitors a more authentic speleologist’s experience. An example is the Dead Bats’ Cave. Instead of the fully illuminated, well paved caves of the SSJ, visitors must climb or rappel down to the underground, offering more of a feeling that you are really exploring. “The first thing we found here were thousands of small bats’ bones, like nowhere else,” said Milan Štéc, a caretaker of the Dead Bats’ Cave, explaining its name. This huge mountain cave is situated 13 kilometres from Bystrianska Cave and only one kilometre from Ďumbier, the highest peak of the Low Tatras. Since 1981, Štéc and his team have discovered the biggest part of what now amounts to 21 kilometres of underground passageway. The cave is not as decorated as others, but it hides remarkable chambers and also the second largest underground space in Slovakia. The Bystrický Dóm is the size of a football field and is 40 m high. Dead Bats’ Cave is not typical. It is situated high in the mountains and the number of visitors is strictly limited; booking in advance is essential. Tour A offers a gentle introduction with an hour-long tour available to anyone older than six, but the more adrenaline-packed tours B and C demand good physical, technical and mental condition. “It is not for everybody,” said Štéc. “Some people have overestimated their abilities.” You pass through the darkest and deepest places equipped only with a headlamp and a protective suit, relying on your skills when climbing over abysses or crawling in very narrow clefts. You climb on rope ladders and clamber on wet and cold ground with sleeping bats around your head. A maximum of six people take the tour together and no children are allowed. Photo:MichalRengevičCourtesyofGrayBearGolfResort

114 central slovakia 37 nízketatry W (hiking,ski)  page 144 38 Brusno (spa)  page 224 39 slovenská ľupča map E 3  12 km / 7.2 miles (12 min) NE of Banská Bystrica  3,165 www.slovenskalupca.sk   Hrad (castle)  1 km / 0.6 mile NE of centre +421 (0)911 580-164 www.hradlupca.sk  Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-15:30 (entrance every 30 min); Sep-June booking necessary 1 day beforehand €1  WC  30 min The highest situated castle in the Pohronie region towers over the village of Slovenská Ľupča. The 13th century edifice survived the raids ofTartars and frequent changes of owners. In the second half of the 14th century, the castle was often visited by Hungarian monarchs. In June of 1443, the region experienced a major earthquake which destroyed much of the castle. However, Ľupča was soon repaired and presumably enlarged. In the 18th century, the castle lost its significance as the administrative centre of the area. An Austrian garrison moved in and turned it into a jail. After a fire in the second half of the 19th century, the castle was only partly repaired and by then it was utilised as an orphanage and a school. In 2002 the castle, still reasonably well preserved, was purchased by the nearby ironworks Železiarne Podbrezová. The company launched an extensive reconstruction, eventually opening the castle’s historical sections to visitors and also making it available for cultural and social events. The reconstructed halls can be rented for weddings and parties. One of the castle’s attractions is a lime tree whose huge trunk measures 7.5 metres around. The tree was named after Matthias Corvinus who used to sit under it. Presumably, this 700-year-old tree has survived a major earthquake, a fire, several windstorms and innumerable lightning strikes. 40 kalište (World War II)  page 282 41 donovaly W map E 3  25 km / 16 miles (25 min) NE of Banská Bystrica  229  Nám. Sv. Antona Paduánskeho 136, Donovaly +421 (0)48 419-9900 www.donovaly.sk Park Snow Donovaly  Donovaly; mountains: Veľká Fatra / Nízke Tatry www.parksnowdonovaly.eu  Dec-Mar; altitude: 910-1,361 m / 2,986-4,465 ft; cable cars: 2; ski-lifts: 14; ski slopes: 11 km / 6.8 miles; snowpark; funpark for children; night skiing; bars; bowling Habakuky (fairytale world)  Donovaly-Mišúty +421 (0)48 410-3166 www. habakuky.eu June 28-Sep 1: Mon-Sun 10:00-18:00 €8.5 (€5.5 children)   WC Though Donovaly has only a tiny year-round population, it is one of the most important centres for winter and summer tourism in the region. Thousands of tourists visit it every year. It has enormous accommodation facilities, plenty of parking and quality equipment for winter sports. Its key location on the route connecting Banská Bystrica with Ružomberok, makes this vacation spot one of the leading resorts in Slovakia. The first historical mention of Donovaly was recorded in 1702. During World War II it was an important link in the anti-Nazi resistance. The village has a long history of mining as it was created out of seven settlements of coalminers. Since 1945 there has been a systematic decrease in permanent residents because of the lack of jobs. Donovaly is an ideal place to learn to ski and instructors at all levels are available as well as 18 kilometres of marked trails for cross-country skiing. The Donovaly’s Riders Park, a professional snowboard park, serves as a training venue for the Slovak snowboarding and acrobatic skiing team. The village is also renowned for its dogsled racing championship. Among the many winter offerings are paragliding, air-boarding, snow-trekking, snow-tubing, bungee activities, snowmobiles, and an Eskimo safari. The fairytale land of Habakuky, with a name derived from the Slovak fairytales of Pavol Dobšinský, is located amid the mountain scenery in Donovaly. The park offers many sights and events for children, including fairy lairs, dragon sculptures, beleaguered Slovenská Ľupča Castle The fairytale land of Habakuky Photo:AmandaRivkin CourtesyofParkSnowDonovaly

central slovakia 115 princesses as well as guides dressed as fairytale heroes. Kids can try their hands at traditional crafts, listen to fairytales read by professional actors, enjoy themselves on the playground, or watch theatre performances in the amphitheatre. The only currency accepted are Habakuks (HBK) – golden and silver coins which can be exchanged for euros in the park. Food is available in the restaurant U Paroma and cabins are available to rent for overnight stays. 42 špania dolina map E 3  12 km / 7 miles (15 min) N of Banská Bystrica  189 +421 (0)48 419-8271  www.spaniadolina.sk  non-stop   This ancient village with a long mining history lies near the Staré Hory village and with its picturesque houses and the beautiful Church of theTransfiguration dating back to 1254, attracts many tourists. In Špania Dolina, the typical 19th century miners’ houses were whitened with lime. The surrounding hills, once rich in copper, offer a historic miner’s hike with excursions into mines. Mining activities diminished in the 17th century and eventually the mines petered out completely by 1888. Špania Dolina then became known for another craft – lace and specifically the tradition of bobbin lace. The most famous piece of heritage from the mining years is a tower called the Klopačka (or the Clapper) from the 16th century that signalled to the miners whether or not they should go to work that day. Today, this is the site of an inn with a restaurant. Špania Dolina is also a hub for hiking, mountain biking, and cross-country skiing trails. 43 Harmanecká jaskyňa (cave) map D 3  16 km / 10 miles (17 min) NW of Banská Bystrica Horný Harmanec, jaskyňa (1.2 km / 0.8 mile SE of the cave) +421 (0)48 419-8122 www.ssj.sk May 15-May 31: Sep-Oct: Tue-Sun 10:00-14:30 (entrance every 90 min); Jun: Tue-Sun 10:00-16:00 (entrance every hour); Jul-Aug: Tue-Sun 10:00-17:00 (entrance every hour)  €6   WC The tour in Harmanecká Cave, also known as White Cave, shows visitors 1,020 metres of the total 3,123 metres, during which they can admire the soft, white, pulpy sinter (a chemical sediment deposited by amineral spring), which is 40 to 80 percent water. In many places, sinter covers the walls and ceiling of the cave or creates unique dripstone formations. In its dry form, it is a light, and porous, powdery material. Look for huge pagoda-like stalagmites, stony waterfalls, draperies, sinter lakes as well as asymmetric stalagmites and eccentric, thin stalactites, which are twisted or in the form of a spiral. The cave is accessible from the parking lot in Harmanecká dolina on the road from Banská Bystrica to Turčianske Teplice; the marked trail takes 40 minutes to walk, and is flanked by billboards that tell visitors about the natural surroundings. 44 skalka (ski)  page 261 45 kremnica W map D 4  51 km / 32 miles (37 min) SW of Banská Bystrica  5,601Štefánikovo námestie 35/44, Kremnica +421 (0)45 674-2856 www.kremnica.sk   January: Biela stopa Kremnica (international cross-country skiing competition); Big Air v meste (jumps on skis or snowboard); June: Music under the Diamond Vault (classical music); July-August: Kremnica Castle Organ; August: Kremnické gagy (festival of satire and humour); November: Town Anniversary Often referred to as the Golden Town, Kremnica’s history of gold and silver mining, which paved the way for the construction of Slovakia’s royal mint in the town, is one of many stories which make up Kremnica’s rich and complex history. With mining shafts dating back to the 8th and 9th centuries, it is thought that mining in the area predated the establishment of the town itself, with the first written mention of the town Cremnychbana dating to the year 1328. Indeed, the riches coming out of the mines and the development of minting in the town were reflected in the construction of new buildings, including the town castle, which was built in the late 14th century. Although the early 16th and 17th centuries saw a steep decline in the excavation of the gold, mines remained open for centuries, and through museums and historical sights, mining, gold and minting have remained central to the town’s identity. Photo:MichalRengevič

116 central slovakia - kremnica 1 Mestský hrad (Town Castle)  Zámocké námestie 1, Kremnica +421 (0)45 674-3968 www.muzeumkremnica.sk  May 18-Jun: Tue-Sun 9:00-12:00, 13:00-16:30; Jul-Sep 15: Tue-Sun 8:30-12:00, 13:00-17:30; Sep 16-Sep 30: Tue-Sun 9:00-12:00, 13:00-16:30; Oct-May 17: Tue-Sat 9:00- 12:00, 13:00-16:30 €2.69  WC Kremnica’s town castle, some of which dates back to the 13th and 15th centuries, is a distinctive architectural monument of a mediaeval settlement and is comprised of a complex of seven main buildings. Encircled by a double fortification wall which is considered to be one of the best-maintained town walls in Slovakia, the complex is constructed around the late gothic St Catherine’s Church. While the church is thought to originate around the 13th or 14th centuries, its present look is largely the result of extensive renovations which took place between 1883 and 1886. The understated décor serves to highlight the impressive gothic architecture of the church, which is adorned with carved leaves and canopies on the sidewalls. With much of the main ceiling minimally decorated, the highly detailed and vibrantly painted stellar vault steals focus, and visitors are advised to stand underneath and admire the four evangelists and 12 apostles painted in blue and gold overhead. The church’s altar is regarded as one of the most valuable neo-gothic altars in Slovakia with a height of nine metres and width of four metres. Painted on a backdrop of brilliant gold, the paintings on the altar are symmetrical, with two smaller yet equally detailed works placed on either side of the central piece. In 1992, one of the best organs in Slovakia was installed in the church, which holds concerts. The church’s tower built independently is open to the public, and those willing to ascend a winding staircase of 127 steps will be rewarded with spectacular 360 degree views of the town below and the distant mountains. In addition to the views, there is also a reconstructed room depicting the watchmen’s chamber. Other parts of the complex include a miners’ bastion, a charnel-house, and the northern tower, which formerly acted as a united semi- circular defence system. 2 Hlavné námestie (main square)  Štefánikovo námestie, Kremnica  exterior views only Kremnica’s main square, Štefánikovo námestie, sits in the centre of the town, and is surrounded by a plethora of museums, historical sights and hotels. Despite the demolition of several houses following World War II, most of the ornate and gothic buildings were preserved, many of which line the square today. Those most acclaimed include the house with the Diamond Vault, the house with late gothic portals, the Franciscan church and monastery and the town hall. Since the 14th century, during which time the castle was also under construction, the town square has held a central place in Kremnica’s communal life. From the year 1425, when the town was afforded the right to organise markets, the main square became a centre of trade, but also the town’s cultural and social heart. The significance of the square remains to this day, with Slovakia’s mint and the Museum of Medals and Coins on opposite sites. Arguably the most impressive feature of the square is the HolyTrinity column commemorating the end of the plague epidemic. A sight of baroque craftsmanship, the column was built between 1765-1772 by sculptor Dionýz Stanetti, whose works can be found in many Slovak mediaeval mining towns, and Austrian sculptor Martin Vogerle of Bruck. 3 Mincovňa (mint)  Štefánikovo námestie 25/24, Kremnica +421 (0)45 678-7875 www.mint.sk May 15-Jun: Mon-Fri 9:00, 11:00 12:30 Sat (only old mint) 9:00, 10:00, 11:00; Jul-Aug: Mon-Fri 9:00, 11:00, 12:30 Sat-Sun (only old mint) 9:00, 10:00, 11:00; Sep-May 15: Mon-Fri 9:00, 11:00, 12:30 from €1.7   The mint in Kremnica, located on the main square, has been a functioning mint for approximately 700 years, 3 2 Hlavné námestie Mint Neo-gothicaltarintheStCatherine’sChurch Mainsquarefromthetowncastle

central slovakia - kremnica 117 making it one of the world’s oldest permanently functioning factories. Since the town was afforded coin- minting privileges in 1328, the mint has been producing money, and was the only mint in the Austro- Hungarian Empire at the end of the 19th century. During a tour of the mint, visitors see an impressive array of machinery, including over 100-year-old machines as well as the machine which produced the first coins of Czechoslovakia, dating to 1921. While the older machinery can be viewed all year round, the modern machines, currently used to manufacture Slovakia’s euros can only be viewed during their sporadic operation. Múzeum mincí a medailí (Museum of Coins and Medals)  Štefánikovo nám. 10/19, Kremnica +421 (0)45 678-0308  www.muzeumkremnica.sk  May 18-Jun: Tue-Sun 8:30-13:00, 14:00-16:30; Jul-Sep 15: Tue-Sun 8:30-13:00, 14:00-17:30; Sep 16-Sep 30: Tue-Sun 8:30-13:00, 14:00-16:30; Oct-May 17: Tue-Sat 8:30- 13:00, 14:00-16:30 €2.69   WC The Museum of Coins and Medals aptly complements the mint tour, inviting visitors to see artefacts ranging from national history to displays of the process of minting and centuries-old coins in glass cabinets. On the lower floor, utensils used for ore mining and metallurgy can be viewed as well as rocks of varying shapes and sizes from the local mine. The upper floors are mostly dedicated to displays of coins, from mediaeval currency to modern-day euros. Opevnenie (fortification)  Zámocké námestie, Angyalova and P. Križku Streets, Kremnica  exterior views only The stone fortification wall surrounds much of the town centre and is linked to the construction of the town castle. Built in the 15th century, and in some places measuring five to seven metres tall, the wall protected Kremnica when it was an important royal town. In the 16th century, the walls were strengthened to protect residents from the Ottoman invasions. With two rotund bastions – one red in the south-east corner, the other black in the south-west – the fortification remains impressive, and its antiquated structure prepares visitors for much of the mediaeval architecture found within the town walls. Previously, the town could be entered through three gates – the Small, Lower and Upper gates – however the Upper and Small gates were demolished between1872-1880. Banské múzeum, Andrej štôlňa (Mining Museum, Andrej Adit)  Banská cesta 803/27, Kremnica +421 (0)45 674-3144  muzeum.kremnica-gold.sk Mon-Fri 9:00- 15:00 (entrance every 120 min) Sat-Sun 13:00-15:00 (entrance every 120 min) €4  WC A visit to Kremnica’s Andrej Adit, located a brisk 20 minutes walk from the town centre, takes visitors on a journey through the town’s mining history. The absolute darkness – aside from the guide’s torch – combined with transportation trolleys periodically stationed along the rail tracks transports visitors to another time and allows guests to experience the atmosphere of mining from as far back as the 17th century even though the mine itself dates back to 1982. The part open to visitors is 660 metres long and in its numerous horizontal tunnels there are reconstructed scenes of mining and miners’ workplaces throughout the ages intended to give visitors a comprehensive understanding of a miner’s life from different time periods. Also visible are flecks of gold and numerous veins of quartz etched into the rock of the tunnel’s sides. 1 St Catherine’s Church Town Castle Town Hall (main square)